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june
20th March 2013, 01:15 PM
just finished setting up dawes and needle valve and seems to be working very well. before this was done when towing a 3 ton van egt was 550 degrees flat hwy 100kls/hour. now with boost set at 15 lb temps are down by a massive 130 degree's reading on the pyro at 410-420 degree's. can anyone tell me does this make the engine run lean or has it got nothing to do with air/fuel mix. not right up with engine talk. if all is good this has been the best mod anyone should do to there 3lt patrols. i was always stressed before this mod was done watching boost and pyro needles going to the ceiling hoping the engine could handle the punishment is was getting. thanks to all for all input and info on this subject. thanks:

Sir Roofy
20th March 2013, 01:55 PM
I run my 3l at 12psi wich is tops and hwy it sits between 8-11 psi
temps run at 250 -350 or more depending on road surface and drive at
95 -1ooks id drop to 12psi see how that goes

june
21st March 2013, 08:43 AM
i need heaps of torque [with van on] so would dropping to 12 lb be an advantage?

threedogs
21st March 2013, 11:14 AM
X 2 love the NAD Modification.
Towing my temps are 400C
Solo @ 100kph temps are 200 c 10psi and 2000 rmp
After a Dyno I think these figures will improve

june
21st March 2013, 05:43 PM
my solo@ 100klms is 240 c boost around 11psi @ 2000 rpm which used to be [before nads] 330 c. and boost @ 14psi. so what would they do if they dyno? do they adjust turbo to come on earlier or later or are there other things they do? i have the direct injected 3 litre.

threedogs
21st March 2013, 05:48 PM
Tweak the boost controll and needle valve and turbo to provide optimum efficiency
You can ask them to Dyno for Max power or fuel economy. Cost is about $150

june
22nd March 2013, 10:47 AM
no worry's i have a tweak with both valves .

MEGOMONSTER
1st April 2013, 11:41 PM
Sorry for mini hijack (but that never happens on this forum)
I have a mate who has purchased an early model GU, 3lt Di, and is concerned about grenading. I told him about Nads but wasn't exactly sure what else to tell him.
I said there are a fees things required to help.
1: Dawes and needle valve as the boost controller.
2: a oil catch can
3: a boost gauge to see what's happening under the hood

But I am unsure of everything else and didnt really want to start another thread on Nads.

Edit: never mind just found this

Is this what the NADS consist of?
Block the EGR Yes
Fit a catch can Yes
Fit a Pyro guage Yes
Fit a boost guage Yes
Fit dawes and needle valve set up Yes
Clean MAF and inlet manifold Yes
Is replacing the intercooler part of the NADS or just a good idea? Only necessary to replace if it is leaking, fitting an upgraded intercooler will bring the EGT's down a bit which is good for the engine.
Are there other things that should be done to protect the engine?

From the research I have done the Mann-Hummel Provent 200 is the best catch can/PCV filter.

3Bar racing is the most common place to get Dawes valves although someone on here got one fromTJM recently but I don't know if it was made locally.

Tony

Dominator
2nd April 2013, 09:21 AM
Cleaning the MAF would be the first thing to do as it is cheap and easy. From what I have read the most important things to fit are boost and pyro gauges. At least then if you can back off if the boost/EGTs get to high. Then fit Dawes and needle valve and block the egr.

june
2nd April 2013, 12:36 PM
i agree those 2 gauges are worth every penny. they till you a lot with what the engine is doing. hopefully before a major problem happens. but in saying that all those other nad mods are important as well.