View Full Version : Builders advice
Bloodyaussie
11th March 2013, 06:45 PM
I need a bit of advice with putting a wall in... I removed a bar that was in our lounge and will be turning it into a walk in pantry and needed to know about putting a frame up to attach the plaster board to.
Any tips????? in case I miss the obvious
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x260/jpgpz/98440BA1-B93C-4C61-A063-F61ABB2FE0F1-4067-000003A41D81D369_zps7da14916.jpg
NissanGQ4.2
11th March 2013, 06:59 PM
No advice, sorry
I was looking at converting a room off our lounge room into a en-suite / walk in wardrobe.
Was speaking to our solicitor the other day on other matters relating to our local council and was just having a general chat and told told her of our plans to do the en-suite / walk in wardrobe. She said, do you realise you need council approval 2 do that.......
WTF, why.....all I'm doing is putting up a dividing wall and some plumbing for f sake!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I'm over it, it can be kept as a junk room :):):)
93patrol
11th March 2013, 06:59 PM
something like this i would build in-situ fix your bottom and top plates in first then cut your studs to length you will need to put them square(obviously) to the top and bottom plates, here you could get away with using 90x35mm timber as it's not load bearing at between 450mm and 600mm centres(max) and a noggin set at 900-1100 mm(max) from the bottom.
Put the first 2 studs as close to the existing walls as posible and then measure and devide up the rest probably only need 2 other studs so 4 all up.
you'll have to remove the existing cornice (again obviously) just 2 dynabolts to fix the bottom at each end and nail the top into existing timber joists iff possible
93patrol
11th March 2013, 07:01 PM
No advice, sorry
I was looking at converting a room off our lounge room into a en-suite / walk in wardrobe.
Was speaking to our solicitor the other day on other matters relating to our local council and was just having a general chat and told told her of our plans to do the en-suite / walk in wardrobe. She said, do you realise you need council approval 2 do that.......
WTF, why.....all I'm doing is putting up a dividing wall and some plumbing for f sake!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I'm over it, it can be kept as a junk room :):):)
thats because you are adding another bathroom is all and you need to notify council of extra waste pipes coming out of your place
Bloodyaussie
11th March 2013, 07:08 PM
something like this i would build in-situ fix your bottom and top plates in first then cut your studs to length you will need to put them square(obviously) to the top and bottom plates, here you could get away with using 90x35mm timber as it's not load bearing at between 450mm and 600mm centres(max) and a noggin set at 900-1100 mm(max) from the bottom.
Put the first 2 studs as close to the existing walls as posible and then measure and devide up the rest probably only need 2 other studs so 4 all up.
you'll have to remove the existing cornice (again obviously) just 2 dynabolts to fix the bottom at each end and nail the top into existing timber joists iff possible
Thanks mate I appreciate the advice... It's good for someone else to make sense of which way to go!!!!
Too many beers now to get right into the detail and my Samoan neighbours wont shut the f%$k up so I cant concentrate....
NissanGQ4.2
11th March 2013, 07:11 PM
thats because you are adding another bathroom is all and you need to notify council of extra waste pipes coming out of your place
Thanks mate, will have to look into it some more
Only want to do the walk in robe to start of with anyway as I should be able to do that part myself..........there's nothing wrong with a crooked wall :):):)
Sorry for the hijack BA
growler2058
11th March 2013, 07:11 PM
Or a steel stud partition wall
93patrol
11th March 2013, 07:12 PM
all good mate honestly if i was over your way i would pop over and do it for you but its a bit of a drive and the missus would get a little upset.haha
any dramas BA send us a pm and if you want i can talk you through it and if you dont have access to a nail gun predrill timbers with a 1/8 drill bit and use 3 in bullet head nails or screws and she ll be solid as
Bloodyaussie
12th March 2013, 07:38 AM
Had another read this morning and just wanted to know if a basic diagram would be possible??? yeah I know???
I am arranging the innards today ( pantry shelves and stuff) and am hoping to win a good table saw setup on Ebay as I have a few projects to do.... including re-doing my rear draws!!!
Then it's kitchen ,laundry and bathroom and by the time I am finished I can rent this house out and get away from all these assholes, yipee!!!!!! Then move next door to AB...he he!!!
growler2058
12th March 2013, 07:56 AM
Dont forget trimmers for your shelves unless you can pick up studs
Steve4wdin
12th March 2013, 07:57 AM
What sort of roof do you have? Are your existing internal walls load bearing? Don't attach your top plate to bottom cord of truss dirrectly. It will cause your cieling and cornace to crack when the roof moves.You need hangers. The top of your top plate should be 20mm lower than the bottom of truss. (bottom cord). Use a double stud each end of wall and spread the others at 600mm centres. Use this as a guide as gyprock is 1200mm wide.
rkinsey
12th March 2013, 10:49 AM
Had another read this morning and just wanted to know if a basic diagram would be possible??? yeah I know???
I am arranging the innards today ( pantry shelves and stuff) and am hoping to win a good table saw setup on Ebay as I have a few projects to do.... including re-doing my rear draws!!!
Then it's kitchen ,laundry and bathroom and by the time I am finished I can rent this house out and get away from all these assholes, yipee!!!!!! Then move next door to AB...he he!!!
I have some pics of our framework from when we did our renos last year if that would help BA.
Also can I suggest you strongly look at Ikea for your Bathroom, Laundry and Kitchen renos. I found that they have very high quality cabinets and accessories and were the cheapest (In our case) than any other Kitchen supplier I could find in Sydney. Our Laundry only cost me $800.00 (without tiles) and that included a SS deep sink, tapware and 2.4m benchtop. Our Kitchen cost $6500.00 including hardwood floor, dual SS sink, Tapware, 900 wide stove (with 5 gas burners on top and a fan forced oven) and a dishwasher. Both appliances are made by Whirlpool. The kitchen is 4.5m wide x 3.5m deep. You can go online and design the whole lot and cost it even before you order anything. Have a look here - http://www.ikea.com/ms/en_AU/campaigns/kitchens/kitchen_planner.html
Cheers,
Rob
93patrol
12th March 2013, 11:46 AM
Had another read this morning and just wanted to know if a basic diagram would be possible??? yeah I know???
I am arranging the innards today ( pantry shelves and stuff) and am hoping to win a good table saw setup on Ebay as I have a few projects to do.... including re-doing my rear draws!!!
Then it's kitchen ,laundry and bathroom and by the time I am finished I can rent this house out and get away from all these assholes, yipee!!!!!! Then move next door to AB...he he!!!
i am at work today but i'll draw something up when i get home and scan to my computer if you wouldnt mind can you pm your email and i can email the plan to you as i dont think AB would like it if i posted it up here.
just thinking as well is your house timber frame internal walls or brick like here in WA
Cheers
shane
93patrol
12th March 2013, 11:54 AM
What sort of roof do you have? Are your existing internal walls load bearing? Don't attach your top plate to bottom cord of truss dirrectly. It will cause your cieling and cornace to crack when the roof moves.You need hangers. The top of your top plate should be 20mm lower than the bottom of truss. (bottom cord). Use a double stud each end of wall and spread the others at 600mm centres. Use this as a guide as gyprock is 1200mm wide.
you can also get 1350 wide gyprock as well for you convienience :)
MudRunnerTD
12th March 2013, 12:14 PM
Hey Jonathan,
Send me your number via pm mate, I am a Building Consultant and a Carpenter by Trade. On the phone now but from the pic it seems simple enough.
Happy to have a chat on the phone mate and maybe even drop past at some stage if we can make that work and talk you through it.
Cheers Darren
89gqpatrol4x4
13th March 2013, 05:36 PM
What sort of roof do you have? Are your existing internal walls load bearing? Don't attach your top plate to bottom cord of truss dirrectly. It will cause your cieling and cornace to crack when the roof moves.You need hangers. The top of your top plate should be 20mm lower than the bottom of truss. (bottom cord). Use a double stud each end of wall and spread the others at 600mm centres. Use this as a guide as gyprock is 1200mm wide.
plaster is hung horizontaly so it doenst matter, studs are at either 450 or 600 centers , no more than 600, and you can fix straight to the ceiling because if your house is moving now then your ceiling would already be cracked. I do this stuff everyday as a registered builder and renovation carpenter
Bloodyaussie
13th March 2013, 05:46 PM
Hey Jonathan,
Send me your number via pm mate, I am a Building Consultant and a Carpenter by Trade. On the phone now but from the pic it seems simple enough.
Happy to have a chat on the phone mate and maybe even drop past at some stage if we can make that work and talk you through it.
Cheers Darren
Your a sexy man Daz!!!!!!!
NissanGQ4.2
13th March 2013, 05:56 PM
I am a Building Consultant and a Carpenter by Trade.
Cheers Darren
When are you coming to Sydney Daz????, I have a slab or 2 with your name on it
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