Question with hi egts

[Gu01patrol]

Would like to information please,

started on the NADS conversion, just installed a 3 inch X-Force exhaust systems with a PYRO and Gauge (AUBER INSTUMENTS) I have the EGR block off plate but not installed yet, I have the Dawes valve also not installed as yet Engine is a ZD30TDDI I am waiting on boost controller and another Tee pce before I install the rest.

I have just taken her for a test drive and have found the Boost comes on a little earlier now, around 2500rpm, the gears wind out a lot smoother and feels better in each gear, but I know can see that the pyro readings are around 750-850 C with boost and can climb to around 950 without boost say in 5th gear around 110k's

Boost max at the moment has dropped from 14psi to 10psi which I can adjust after the dawes is installed

So my question is when I have blocked og the EGR and installed the Dawes Valve would it be fair to say I would achieve pyro reading at around the 550 C mark

If this is what they are know I can only imagine what they would have been like before

any input would be great full :1087:

[WYLD333]

750 - 850 degrees geeeee u want that thing to go BANG....... If i was you id be backing off at 500 and going no higher than 550 max wow. U should be installing the needle valve with the dawes to bring those egts down.

[Gu01patrol]

yes i am just waiting for the needle valve to arrive so i can install it them, i assume it being like it for a while we had the head done about 18 months ago and now trying to do the NADS conversion, if i back off to 500 or 550 i will never get anywhere, i just hoping that the pump is not on its way out as well

[MudRunnerTD]

is that Pre or Post turbo temp readings?

If that is Post turbo then you have some serious issues my friend!!! you need to Check your Wiring. get it on a Dyno FAST> and calibrate your gauge against the Dyno gauge.

good luck

[WYLD333]

I would be parking that thing up and taking it nowhere, for your sake i hope you have a faulty gauge

[Gu01patrol]

no these are post readings, unless i have stuffed up the settings on the gauge, but i don't thinks so, as i am 4-5 hours from my nearest dyno but i hope to have it there soon, its a risk i have to take at the moment, this is why i asked the question.

just say a prayer for me then

[Gu01patrol]

well i hope i have set the gauge wrong, but that's what i am seeing at the moment. i think i need to get a infra red thermo reader to ensure the readings i am getting are correct

[MudRunnerTD]

i think you have it set in Fahrenheit? i hope you do

[Gu01patrol]

no i checked it a few times it shows it in Cel

[lorrieandjas]

Bugger mate. Something be wrong there......

Jas

[Gu01patrol]

Ok i think i found the problem, i had a setting set at 1000 instead on 00000 which now gives me EGTs at an average on a quick test drive not exceeding 345 C this gauge must have not been set or i knocked it, i mean with reading in the 800-950 range i would have expected to have no exhaust when i returned well i hope i found the reason why the EGTs were so hi

I am using a K type probe with an Auber SYL-1813 Digital Gauge i think i have found the reason y the extremely hi EGTS were being shown

[Gu01patrol]

Now i have read that i can and should read the air temp pre-turbo so i was also wondering should i plum my seconded probe into the inter-cooler pipe before the turbo to read the air temp before it enters so i can get pre- and post temps

[MudRunnerTD]

Glad you got it sorted mate. Sound much more reasonable mate. I am not sure if you will get real advantage from running a second pyro. If you have the cash and have somewhere to put the extra gauge then go for it mate but not paramount.

In relation for the 900 melting your exhaust?? Mate bugger the exhaust! That's Piston Melting temps! Hence the concern from everyone!

Note your threshold safety temp should be about 550! Over that for any more that 10 to 20 seconds at a time and your in trouble. Stay under 550 for safety mate.

Cheers MR

[Gu01patrol]

Hey Thanks all, Yes it was concerning for me as well

Yer i do have a spare second pyro, so i may consider installing or i might change the probe and use it as a digital boost gauge, yet to decide i have set the alarms to 550C so all should be good there. the temps look a look more pleasing to the eye now i must say

Cheers all

[WYLD333]

There u go, got her sorted now they sound like normal temps. Mine ususaly sits between 300 - 400, and will climb to around 400-500 when going 100+km n hitting hills

[Drew]

There u go, got her sorted now they sound like normal temps. Mine ususaly sits between 300 - 400, and will climb to around 400-500 when going 100+km n hitting hills

Mines similar, I haven't towed with the gauge in yet so what do others get ?

It's like shutting down, I take it easy for the last few Kms and let it idle a little while getting out but after putting the pyro in, if shutting down under 200c is the goal, I need to idle for a couple of minutes even after babying it home.

I put a laser pointy thermometer on different places of the turbo and it was less than 200c even when egt is higher.

Starting to get confused :)

“The best way to cheer yourself is to cheer somebody else up.” - Albert Einstein

[nipagu7]

Somethin really seems odd here . Are you sure that your guage is reading celsius and not farenheight ?
And I think your boost is coming on way to late . If the car was standard I would expect the boost to come on about 1800 , but with a 3" pipe I would expect it to come on at about 15/1600 and very quickly at that .

[nipagu7]

Oops , my bad . Only read the first page before replying , still waking up ,need more coffey .

[Drew]

Oops , my bad . Only read the first page before replying , still waking up ,need more coffey .

Oh crap, that's what I forgot, coffee!!!


“The best way to cheer yourself is to cheer somebody else up.” - Albert Einstein

[WYLD333]

I only really tow my camper trailer with mine so it would weigh fully loaded would maybe just over a tonne and my egt's still remain around the same, if im going up a long hill going 100km it my rise to 550 max


Mines similar, I haven't towed with the gauge in yet so what do others get ?

It's like shutting down, I take it easy for the last few Kms and let it idle a little while getting out but after putting the pyro in, if shutting down under 200c is the goal, I need to idle for a couple of minutes even after babying it home.

I put a laser pointy thermometer on different places of the turbo and it was less than 200c even when egt is higher.

Starting to get confused :)

“The best way to cheer yourself is to cheer somebody else up.” - Albert Einstein

[Gu01patrol]

Somethin really seems odd here . Are you sure that your guage is reading celsius and not farenheight ?
And I think your boost is coming on way to late . If the car was standard I would expect the boost to come on about 1800 , but with a 3" pipe I would expect it to come on at about 15/1600 and very quickly at that .

I think i have found the reason for the turbo spooling up later, i did notice two days ago that a pipe on the vacuum solenoid (that goes to the VNT) was broken and it had been glued into place, so maybe i am suspecting a leak here or a faulty solenoid i am picking a new one up Monday so i hope this is the cause. but hopefully next week the dawes will be fitted and i hope to have a better idea then off to have a dyno done to check that she is running ok

[WYLD333]

No point picking up the solenoid mate, when you install your needle valve you will be blocking the ports anyhow so will render it useless

[threedogs]

X 2 on wrong guage I have farhenheight so I need to halve and add a little.
Max up hill with trailer is 1000F normally around 500/600 f

[Gu01patrol]

No point picking up the solenoid mate, when you install your needle valve you will be blocking the ports anyhow so will render it useless

Cheers

thanks i do understand that but at the moment i don't think it will block off securely and may cause engine faults, so i decided the best way was to get a new one, then when i block off the ports i know they will be block securely thus i hope no engine fault codes

[WYLD333]

Sorry mate i have no idea what your trying to say, old one or new one it wont make any difference even if it doesnt wrk because it will be totally bypassed, if you wana waste your coin its ur call

[Gu01patrol]

Sorry mate i have no idea what your trying to say, old one or new one it wont make any difference even if it doesnt wrk because it will be totally bypassed, if you wana waste your coin its ur call

Ok cool i was just under the impression the the ecu would try to operate it, as it plugs into the electrics and as one of the pipes for the vacuum is snapped off, and will not be able to loop the two required ones together on the vac solenoid , as shown in pictures i have seen, sorry M8 i maybe reading this all wrong. as i could better spend the $230 bucks.

I am knew to this so please just bear with me

[WYLD333]

wait to you get your dawes and needle valve then set that up, it will be all you require

[nipagu7]

I think maybe the vacum solenoid still has to work but the dawes and needle valves just regulate the vacum pressure and vacum speed flowrate that it operates at ?

[Gu01patrol]

Cool and thanks guys i am new to this sort of stuff Harley's are my game i took this of the wife because of some of the problems, and got her a new ST Navara anyway i took a punt and installed the egr plate, went for a run and found great drive ability, at 2500rpm about 110k about 4-5 psi in boost with a max boost around 10psi EGT's around 400c so i think these are except able, andway i guess i have now lost my virginity and will look to you guys for guidance thank you for your input and for any in the future