Help with my NADS

[healy]

So as some already know I got a grenade 2001 gu s2 dx manual yes I have been reading the other posts (how confusing) so ppl with experience etc at doing the NADS. So boost & egt gauges bigger intercooler what else is needed? Do ppl change the turbo as this a big problem on these? So I'm in Melbourne. Where's the best place to get these items quality&price is a big issue only want to do it once does the exhaust need to be put to a 3" as I want to do it anyways but does that help? If you can help me I can make it worth it for you one night with bloodyaussie you know hes up for it

[threedogs]

Check Chaz yellowfoot thread in archives, it has where to buy what you need Dawes is $45 AUS from 3barracing in the states,, darren dawes is the man.PM Mudski he may have some in stock and lives near BA. the needle valve is from Dependable distributors in Sth Aust $85 from memory, get extra "tee" from 3barracing too, then you'll need a Provent 400 catch can about not sure on price , These plus your pillar pod and EGT and boost gauge,oh and send the Ferret a PM for an EGR block plate, All foolproof drawings are in Chaz yellowfoot thread {guru}. you have earlier model with vacuum canister,this is also written about. Need gauges fitted first

[Sir Roofy]

3d just about sums it up and chaz,s diagrams are clear to follow
i didnt go the 3'' exhaust i went 2.5from the back of the turbo 2.5 high flow cat and off set muffler
not a fan of 3''

[threedogs]

Thanks Roofy, Beaudesert do a 2.75" DIY others would be able to give you prices.
I've 3" from turbo back needed NADS bigtime as overboosting bigtime, now its like
a Swiss watch and running like a dream thanks to Boots and others on this forum

[Lonicus]

Just got my 2.75" Beaudesert, price is around $1135 + packing and freight ($100 combined) for me. Freight might be a bit more given you're a bit further south.

Not sure Ferret is doing the plates any more, he was unable to supply one to me for "reasons beyond his control".

[mudski]

This is what I have done to my '01 GUII.

Dawes valve
Needle valve ( recently removed the dependable one as it was leaking via the control knob, so now using an alternative cheaper unit which doesn't leak)
EGR plate
Boost and EGT gauge ( all in one jobbie from McNally in the USA) Full electric gauge so no vac lines needed to run inside the cab.
3inch Redback zorst
Provent 200 catch can
DP chip
A.R.E IC scoop
Better IC yet to come. I can't justify the asking price for the ones floaty around, currently looking abroad for one.

I do have some Dawes valves coming, should be this week, the ones from 3Bar have gone up in price and maybe going up again. A new and cheaper needle valve hopefully this week too, but I will be testing it first and EGR plates should be ready this week too, should...
The Zorst I got for $900, and I fitted it myself, going back to get the muffler chopped out soon. I do still have the stock dump pipe at home sitting here which the cat has been gutted and a bung for the EGT pyro welded in if you want to go that way...The gauge works and looks really trick, one gauge sitting in between the speedo and tacho, no pillar pod required. DP chip, look around for a second hand one, I picked mine up for $650 by memory.
Then you have to talk to TD about recovery points. I can help you out with fitting them if you need...
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?14223-Fitting-GU-Recovery-plates.

[threedogs]

Like your scoop Mudski they look great on the white GU, I have stainless EGR blanking plates and have had for ages, just thought Ferret had them covered and didn't want to steal his thunder.
Got everything covered and all live within 3/4 hour of each other, beer it on

[mudski]

Had a few frothies already.... Anyhow I now have six stainless EGR plates in my hands. Should have been more but I'll get what I'm given hey...

Yeah someone talked me into forking out $$$ for that scoop. Does look trick though.

[threedogs]

Make them look much better, should be OE

[boots]

beaudesert 2and3/4 '' exhaust was $1240 healy from memory and a pwr performance IC was around $700. both delivered . Agree with everyone elses comments in regards to all other bits required .

[healy]

Thanks fellas appreciate it a lot for the help have you guys kept the turbo? As my mechanic said turbo on it is new but the are a piece of s**t and the biggest problem of all with the 3ltrd so I'm looking for a new one but what to get? Don't want a massive over kill turbo

[mudski]

How you finding the zorst boots? I'm gonna get the muffler cut out soon on my 3inch redback system...Keep the turbo healy. Nothing wrong with them IMO. It's only the boost control that a lot of mechanics can't get their head around, thats why they say its a POS. There is better turbo's don't get me wrong but how far do you go?

Also the PWR IC too boots? Whats your thoughts? I'm tempted to run a screw driver through mine just so I can get a better one. :)

[boots]

Keep the turbo healy . Exhaust is great -goes and drives better ,EGT temps are lower and fuel economy better -big win . pwr IC is great . It replaced the factory one which had more leaks in it than a sieve . pwr do changeover exchange and reuse the end tanks and weld in there own cores which are meant to be better .

[threedogs]

Shite heals how fast you reckon you can get a 3lt to go. Mine will blow most others away from a set of lights, Boots I think from memory the new end cover give about 40% extra volume in your IC

[mudski]

Give us a shout mate if and when you need help. Keep the neck oil flowing and we'll be around... :D

[threedogs]

X 3 on that will bring my new pointing chair

[mudski]

I forgot to add that if and when you need to do your clutch I will be mowing my lawn...

[healy]

Is there room to mount a front mount intercooler strapped to the bonnet with 2fans like mudrunners gq or is it just abit of overkill for the 3ltr as the best quote so far has been $1480 delivered for a top mount seems expensive to me

[threedogs]

IMO I'd be going for efficiency more than all out power. Those larger IC's compared to larger end tanks TIG welded onto OE IC would be a good comparo, IMO I'd go the larger OE end tanks and spend the rest on something else.,

If its all out power you want you should have brought a 4.5 or 4.8 and bolted a turbo to it, problem solved

[Sir Roofy]

is there room to mount a front mount intercooler strapped to the bonnet with 2fans like mudrunners gq or is it just abit of overkill for the 3ltr as the best quote so far has been $1480 delivered for a top mount seems expensive to me

the three lts are good but you have to respect that they are a light motor
start going big for power and you.l loose in economy

[healy]

Power isn't what I'm after but if you could get a bigger cooler I thought would be a better solution? So if I was just to go a upgraded version where's the best place to go? Price if you can to and where do I get a Provent 200 catch can and how much should I expect for one of these

[healy]

Catch can I have found $170 it's the Provent hp200 catch can

[healy]

It's ok I used my eyes I think I need glasses as the cooler info was already on here thanks boots

[Sir Roofy]

power isn't what i'm after but if you could get a bigger cooler i thought would be a better solution? So if i was just to go a upgraded version where's the best place to go? Price if you can to and where do i get a provent 200 catch can and how much should i expect for one of these

look up snicko doing nads in the search buttonshe did the lot in cluding bigger i/c
has some good clear pics as well
i put on a standard i/c with welded ends from patrol apart in lilydale $500 change over
seems ok catch can from westernfilters price depends on wether yu want bare or hoses

[mudski]

Just buy the provent by itself and then go to a hose place and get the hoses that you need. Heaps cheaper. I made a mount for mine from a contruction bracket from bunnings for about $10. Mounting it is the PIA job for the Provent. Atleast you wont have ABS so there's room to fit it.
Also you can see I used some copper reducers from Reece's from the Provent to the hoses. As one hose from the top of the engine is 1/2inch and the hose to the intake is 3/4inch AND the Provent connections are 1inch. So, I bought two 1inch to 3/4 O.D copper reducers, one for the provent to intake and the other I put a piece of 1/2inch copper pipe in the inside of the smaller end of the reducer to step it down to the right size and that went to the engine.
Confused? The 3/4 end of the reducer is 1/2inch I.D so the 1/2inch pipe fit straight in...
Hopefully the pic can tell you the story better...

[threedogs]

MUDSKI just had thought ,worth pre fabbing a provent bracket?

[mudski]

Yeah I could but for what the materiel cost from bunnings. Is it worth it? Then again....hmmm

[threedogs]

I have very good laser cutter/ gold zinc plated

[mudski]

3d just about sums it up and chaz,s diagrams are clear to follow
i didnt go the 3'' exhaust i went 2.5from the back of the turbo 2.5 high flow cat and off set muffler
not a fan of 3''

Why you not a fan of 3inch roofy?

[healy]

look up snicko doing nads in the search buttonshe did the lot in cluding bigger i/c
has some good clear pics as well
i put on a standard i/c with welded ends from patrol apart in lilydale $500 change over
seems ok catch can from westernfilters price depends on wether yu want bare or hoses

How longs your cooler been on for now?

[healy]

At a guess I'd say noise

[mudski]

Mate my 3inch zorst is no louder than the stock one. seriously... I'm going in to get the muffler removed just so it actually sounds sort of like I have a 3inch system.
As for the IC. I found a bloke selling some coolers that look remarkably like the HPD one but half the price. I have compare about six photos of the two brands and they look identical. Even down to the type of fan suppiled. I then got in contact with a few guys who use them and the only difference they see is cooler EGT's. No power increase. WTF!!! I really want a bbigger and better IC for mine but are very reluctant to fork out $$$ for something that all I will see is better EGT's when mine barely reach 350c towing a laden trailer now....I would really like to hear from anyone using something like a CC cooler.

[threedogs]

I have straight through 3" CAT and 3"Zorst and can't hear a thing

[Bloodyaussie]

Yeah Marks car is nice and quiet which is what I like.... my new system is a lot louder and not sure I like it..

[Sir Roofy]

How longs your cooler been on for now?

just over 12months

[Sir Roofy]

Why you not a fan of 3inch roofy?

mines a 02 model and think that they need just a tad back pressure
im happy with the the 2''.5 zorst temps are ok and i dont think its realy
beneficial( just my opinion)

[mudski]

I'll bring over the dump pipe I have for ya mate, also the plate, dawes, if it turns up and anything else I can think of, and then you can decide if you want to use it(the pipe). Atleast you will have it there with you either way. Need help with fitting this? No problem. Actually the only problem is when as I have a lot of catch up work going on at the moment. We'll see....

[crutchy26]

I have a brand new one, for a bit less than that. Try $95 delivered by AusPost???

[threedogs]

Heals I take it you thought something was wrong, and now problem has shown itself.??

[mudski]

I have a brand new one, for a bit less than that. Try $95 delivered by AusPost???
A brand new what bud?

[crutchy26]

Have you got a catch can? Have the provent 200 on mine. The scum it stops getting to the intercooler, is scary. Changed my filter after 20 000. Filters are cheap. Motors are expensive! There is one on eBay at the moment. Cheap. I know, I am the seller! And a Provent 200 is rated for engines of our Patrols.

[mudski]

If your is the one going for $100 that is bloody cheap. The filter alone is $70.

[threedogs]

I take it Heals no longer requires help with the fitting of a NADS set up'
What are you doing now Heals ???????

[healy]

No I need help mate lol just got it back today it is one month since I bought it on Sunday and I've fitted some stuff already but installing the plate etc if anybody wants a free feed and beer more than welcome to come and help (show me what to do)

[mudski]

Where do you live? Hmm might be free on Sunday, I think the wifes taking the kids to a party, hope its both of them. Because if its only one I'm out. Monday maybe????Maybe...

[crutchy26]

Check Chaz yellowfoot thread in archives, it has where to buy what you need Dawes is $45 AUS from 3barracing in the states,, darren dawes is the man.PM Mudski he may have some in stock and lives near BA. the needle valve is from Dependable distributors in Sth Aust $85 from memory, get extra "tee" from 3barracing too, then you'll need a Provent 400 catch can about not sure on price , These plus your pillar pod and EGT and boost gauge,oh and send the Ferret a PM for an EGR block plate, All foolproof drawings are in Chaz yellowfoot thread {guru}. you have earlier model with vacuum canister,this is also written about. Need gauges fitted first
Actually you will not need a Provent 400. They are designed for engines of 500kW. The 200 Provent is good for 250kW. Very acceptable for our modest power outputs. (This is from the Mann & Hummell website) I have a brand new provent 200, for sale if you are interested. And a lot cheaper, than all suppliers.

[healy]

Can some one post a pic of where to tap the hose in off the boost gauge instructions don't make sense to me

[Lonicus]

Can some one post a pic of where to tap the hose in off the boost gauge instructions don't make sense to me

Here's a link to a pick of the pipe with the nipple welded in place http://taipanxp.com.au/products/

[healy]

The hose where my finger is. Is that where the T piece goes so I can connect the hose to the boost gauge?

[threedogs]

no thats the vacuum side, its the "TEE" side of dawes, but wait for confirmation, Mean while I'll get pic of mine maybe faster red hose goes to boost guage
Other side of TEE goes to vacuum pump, this is all from memory and mines not that flash, some one will confirm but I'm happy, this is where i needed a 3rd arm to twist dawes.

@ crutchy thanks think tops I'm only 148Kw GGRRrrrrrrhey what a weapon lol

[healy]

Anyone know the 12v ignition wire colour??

[mudski]

which gauge did you end up getting heals?

[mudski]

Anyone know the 12v ignition wire colour??
Use a test light and just grab any wire thats active with the ignition, on.


Can some one post a pic of where to tap the hose in off the boost gauge instructions don't make sense to me
You need to get a threaded piece welded in to one of the steel boost tubes after the Intercooler. Or before. I put two fittings in the first pipe, not hose, coming out of the IC at the front of the engine. One for the boost sensor and one for the Dawes valve. BTW the bigger barbed end of the Dawes is the boost side of things and the top tee'd end is all vacuum side.
Also when getting the fitting welded in, make sure of placement. I.E the fittings are not going to hit anything on the engine, AND don't have the fitting facing downwards. They will fill up with oil eventually.

[mudski]

Some of my Dawes install pics...

[WYLD333]

Just use your 12v sockets to pickup your 12v mate, you got your nads all sorted yet?

[mudski]

He needs to get the boost gauge in before he does the NADs. Which I suspect he's doing now...

[healy]

Power sorted. Nowhere near done with the nads pyro and boost gauges are in but the boost gauge just sits at 29 with the warning light on? wtf can't finish pyro till fit the dump pipe, catchcan still gotta do. Where does the egr plate go?? I'm tired and confused

[mudski]

EGR plate goes top right side of motor. You will see a cast tube come up beside the motor and then turn and point to the head. Two bolt flange. Can't miss it.
You got the McNally i take it healy?
Word of advice. Take your time taking the turbo shield off. It does come out without pulling half the engine apart. You just gotta hold your tongue the right way and she comes out.

[healy]

EGR plate goes top right side of motor. You will see a cast tube come up beside the motor and then turn and point to the head. Two bolt flange. Can't miss it.
You got the McNally i take it healy?

McNally? Catchcan? Bought a Provent hp200

[mudski]

McNally? Catchcan? Bought a Provent hp200
McNally boost and egt gauge...

[healy]

Nah I got dragon boost gauge and performance pyro can not see that egr plate bit

[mudski]

Heres a pic of the actual EGR. The plate goes on the top pipe at the inlet manifold.
Dragon Gauges are expensive. The ones I saw are nearly 1k. As for issue. Can't really help much. I take it, it an electronic gauge. If so, sounds like a wiring issue. Good earth? There NO power to the gauge while the ignition is off?

[mudski]

Don't fit the plate until both gauges are working. Same goes for the Dawes valve.

[healy]

Really oh no ill take a pic of what I've done

[healy]

The dawes valve and gauges

[healy]

Is the green & white a filter? Do you just swap it with the clear filter that come with the boost gauge or do I fit it seperately?

[healy]

Does the vac line diameter mater? As long as its on properly it shouldn't matter rite? My gauge powers on and goes to 29psi and warning light stays on don't know what to do

[mudski]

Is the green & white a filter? Do you just swap it with the clear filter that come with the boost gauge or do I fit it seperately?
O.k...I used the green and white dampener, its a vacuum dampener too not a filter btw, in the line coming directly from the vacuum pump. The pump is located on the rhs of the engine. You can see a steel line coming up and over the top of the motor, then about half way over the engine, it changes to rubber. Then that rubber hose goes to a vacuum canister, a round thingo' that sits on top of the motor, next to your IC. Then it comes out of the canister and NOW should go to your Dawes valve. I put the dampener in THAT line from the pump to the Dawes.
The clear one you got, use that to put in the line to your gauge.

[mudski]

Does the vac line diameter mater? As long as its on properly it shouldn't matter rite? My gauge powers on and goes to 29psi and warning light stays on don't know what to do
As long as the line goes on tight it will be right. You can use small zip ties over the fitting if you like. As for your gauge, I would be double checking that its all wired up right. If it is, try a google search on your gauge and that problem. I did that with my McNally gauge and found out I had a wire in wrong.
Actually Healy. How does that gauge work? Do you have a vac line running into the dash and too the gauge or does it use an electronic sensor?

[mudski]

I've taken some more pics if it helps.


First is the steel line from the vacuum pump to the rubber line which is where you put the green and white dampener then it goes to the Dawes.
Second is what the vacuum canister looks like, it removed mine and basically bypassed it. You still need to have the bracket on the engine though for the engine cover to mount too
Third is showing the control solenoid being blocked and bypassed, there is three ports on that solenoid. All three need to be blocked off if your also fitting the needle valve. Also you can see the blue hose going into the vacuum air box next to the air filter box, this goes inline to the needle valve
Forth is a general pic of how it looks setup.

[threedogs]

While you're doing all this you may think of changing those STD wire hose clamps to some constant pressure ones.
If not at least some stailess worm drive clamps.

[mudski]

Yeah I did that with mine. I used Constant Torque clamps. Spring loaded T-Bolt clamps wee too big... Did all except for one as I can't count and didn't get enough...
Anyhow last pic is where I picked up the boost from. You can see the boost sensor at the front and at the rear top of the same pipe you can see the elbow fitting that goes to the Dawes....

[healy]

I think I've done this wrong judging the pics mudski. The green and white thing on the hose was already on the car and was to the actuator if thats what it's called looks like a mushroom

[healy]

Yeah it's wrong

[mudski]

Should still work even without it. All it does is soften the vacuum fluctuations in the lines. You sorted the boost gauge issue?

[healy]

ive got both gauges wired up correctly. Pyro just needing to do dump pipe. Boost need to do all the plumbing but reading and looking at the pics of what people have done just isnt clicking with me. i thought it was just banging in the dawes and plugging boost hose to the dawes

[mudski]

ive got both gauges wired up correctly. Pyro just needing to do dump pipe. Boost need to do all the plumbing but reading and looking at the pics of what people have done just isnt clicking with me. i thought it was just banging in the dawes and plugging boost hose to the dawes

Yeah well you are. Or can if you want. Two ways to do it.


Tee into the boost side of the dawes ( the end with the single and larger barb) you will need another t-piece though or,
have a second boost port, like I have, two on the steel pipe from the IC.

[healy]

Ok I think I've worked it out. The diagram is by Chaz. So if I'm rite dawes valve goes to the actuator hose (like already had) and that's all that needs to be done to the vac solenoid. Then the boost line to the bottom of dawes(which I had) now that's all I had done. But what I need to do is hose from bottom of dawes to a Tpiece and tap in to the pipe off turbo?? See pix below am I rite??

[healy]

Oh and if I'm rite where do I get the fitting to tap into turbo pipe??

[threedogs]

Think thats different to mine, as I have needle valve and bypassed vacuum solenoid completely
Bunnings sell small plastic TEEs 20 for a couple of bucks 3mm or 4mm will fit

Vacuume hose from vac pump via green thing to port B on solenoid STEP 1
Rubber hose coming out of air filter box to port C on vac solenoid STEP2
From "TEE" one side to round sputnik thingy other side of "TEE" to port A on vac solenoid STEP 3
Other end of "TEE" is boost this needs to be TEE'd into boost guage line. Hope that helps

If you can't get your boost pressure up try 2 things, either put some small stainless steel washers into dawes to increase spring pressure which will increase boost, {I LIKE THIS WAY} or stretch the spring a little, NOTE, measure spring length first but washers for me. PM or call I;ll see if can talk you through it.
What suburb you in??????????

[healy]

Sorry what I mean is the pipe(metal) of the turbo is the blue pipe on the turbo on the drawing so it would have to be a brass fitting of some sort to drill it in or am I wrong? Where do I go for the fitting?

[Pepper]

Mudski,do you supply MAF sensors,if so can you provide details?

[healy]

I'm in carrum downs cheers for the post

[mudski]

Mudski,do you supply MAF sensors,if so can you provide details?
Maf sensors I have mate. 4 pin, not 5 pin like some on Ebay. OEM maf's are four pin btw... $114 plus post they are. Something I can tell you. These are from the same plant as the OEM units. They one I have, have the exact same stamping on them as my OEM maf and on two other OEM maf's I have seen.
Edit : Pepper. I just realised your is CRD. I don't stock them. Only the 2000-2004 Di's at this stage. I'm considering stocking the earlier 2.8, later Di and CRD sensors but business is slow this month so far so will have to hold back.


As for Healy, the fittings I used in the boost pipe are called a bulkhead fitting. Also mate I spoke with your missus about the dump pipe, you still can use it. You jsut need to get a brass adapter to reduce the thread size. Same as my pipe I have on my rig now. 1/4 bsp male to 1/8bsp female fitting you need. They could be gas thread though. Best to take the pipe and the pyro fitting with you to a fitting shop, Pirtek, H.I.S, Enzed etc etc for the right thread type. Pretty sure it's BSP though.
http://www.airlines-pneumatics.co.uk/webcat/Detprod.asp?ProductCode=S010128

[boots]

Here is a pic of mine healy . Just took the guage fitting to enzed to match and welded the fitting in the pipe. then fitted a tee in it for the dawes .

[mudski]

Jeepers boots. Do you disassemble the motor after every drive to clean it? Its like new in there.

[Bloodyaussie]

Yeah Boots is one tidy individual..... I huge selection of toothbrushes and there not for cleaning his teeth!!!!!!!

[healy]

Boost all done just got to tune it up. Pyro will be connected in the morning when dump pipe in stalled and do the EGR plate at the same time when engine cool and provent will be done in the morning also got all the fittings from enzed then I can start wiring up the dual batt system already set it all up cheers for the help so far fellas I certainly needed it

[mudski]

Fun and games hey Heals...

[threedogs]

Its great peace of mind heals,plus you can see whats going on,
NADS rules WHoooaaaa

[healy]

So dump pipe and pyro finished thanks again fellas top start growing some skin back on my knuckles now

[threedogs]

Always a good sign IMO.

[mudski]

Good to see mate. If you need to ring me get my number off BA and give me a call if you like. Too pissed already to even bothere with anything else. Man I love the heat and beer...

[Bloodyaussie]

Sent Healy your deets Mark....

[healy]

So was gonna do the provent 200 and the very bottom pipe needs to be tapped in to the sump. Is there another way around this?? Could I just tap back into another line or something like that or just block it?

[Lonicus]

So was gonna do the provent 200 and the very bottom pipe needs to be tapped in to the sump. Is there another way around this?? Could I just tap back into another line or something like that or just block it?

Just grab a bit of 1/2" spaghetti (clear tube) and put either a plug or tap on it so you can drain it every so often. Using the clear tube allows you to see how much oil is there and when it needs draining.

[mudski]

On mine I have a peice of 1/2inch hose just hanging down beside the chassis rail with a bolt jammed in it and clamped up with a hose clamp. I wouldn't waste your time running it back into the sump. Takes me a whole 2 minutes to drain it when I do an oil change...
Also for the bracket just do what I did if you remember looking at it. I used a piece of builders metal sheet with all the holes in it, so its easy to bend up. made a template from cardboard, once I got it right I made out of the sheet.

[healy]

On mine I have a peice of 1/2inch hose just hanging down beside the chassis rail with a bolt jammed in it and clamped up with a hose clamp. I wouldn't waste your time running it back into the sump. Takes me a whole 2 minutes to drain it when I do an oil change...
Also for the bracket just do what I did if you remember looking at it. I used a piece of builders metal sheet with all the holes in it, so its easy to bend up. made a template from cardboard, once I got it right I made out of the sheet.
Bracket is sorted cheers mate yeah ill just go the bolt like you as I've been everywhere looking for a tap set up with no luck. Will I need to add more oil? If so how much?

[mudski]

Nah mate the oil that comes from the Provent is from the vapors that pass through the Provent filter. It's not actually engine oil as such. If that what your referring too.

[Sir Roofy]

bracket is sorted cheers mate yeah ill just go the bolt like you as i've been everywhere looking for a tap set up with no luck. Will i need to add more oil? If so how much?

i used garden hose connectors and a tap out of
a plastic bottle

[healy]

Cool I thought the line looked a little dry

[threedogs]

So Heals, rule of thumb is 2000rpm = 10psi boost thats ball park
with EGR block