Dash Warning Lights

[nickpeacock36]

I have a bit of a problem (suprise suprise) with my 3L GU. I was driving on road normally today and when i glanced down the sub tank, brake and battery warning lights were all lit.
I managed to drive home no prob checked around for loose wires and disconnected the battery to see if it would reset anything. I then nipped out again to see if it would just stop (wishfull thinking) i put the lights on to check the alternater was working and drove home. The battery was discharged and the car would not start. If the other other dash lights didnt light i would just replace the alternater but i cant help feeling something else is causing the problem.
Anybody had a similar situation?

[happygu]

Sounds exactly like the alternator is not charging. If you can get it running by jump starting, the alternator should be pumping out around 14.2V to the battery terminals if it is okay.

I would be suprised if there was anythinge lse wrong - having all the dash lights come on together is pretty much indication that the alternator is stuffed.......

Mic

[Yendor]

Yeah mate, sounds like an alternator fault.

The other warning lights are part of the bulb test circuit, that's why they come on when the alternator stops charging.

Just check the wires in the two pin plug at the alternator, they are prone to breaking just at the connector.

[nickpeacock36]

Thanks guys
Any idea of alternator prices?

[nickpeacock36]

Sounds exactly like the alternator is not charging. If you can get it running by jump starting, the alternator should be pumping out around 14.2V to be battery terminals if it is okay.

I would be suprised if there was anything lse wrong - having all the dash lights come on together is pretty much indication that the alternator is stuffed.......

Mic
Do you mean put the probes on the battery? if so i checked it while away camping last week and was getting 12.3v as far as i can remember.

[Yendor]

Thanks guys
Any idea of alternator prices?

There are two types you can get.

One has the solid pulley and I think is about $350 the other has the clutch type pulley and is around a $1000.00.

Also checked the charge fuse in the fuse box under the bonnet.

[nickpeacock36]

There are two types you can get.

One has the solid pulley and I think is about $350 the other has the clutch type pulley and is around a $1000.00.

Also checked the charge fuse in the fuse box under the bonnet.
Thanks Rod
I'm going to check in the parts you sugested in the morning. Is the charge fuse just one of the small two pin types?

[Yendor]

Yes it's a 7.5 amp small blade fuse.

[nickpeacock36]

Again thanks mate. Had a look on fleabay and found one in slacks creek for 355 (clutch type) Liz just loves my Patrol, such a cheap reliable car to run lol.

[happygu]

Do you mean put the probes on the battery? if so i checked it while away camping last week and was getting 12.3v as far as i can remember.

If you are only getting 12.3 V with the engine running at the battery connections, then it would seem to to be altermator trouble.

Yes - Test at the Battery. The only other less likely scenario, is that the battery has dropped a cell, but that shouldn't stop the alternator putting out 14V.

Mic

[happygu]

Unfortunately, diesel alternators have never been cheap........ but I have never had to buy one either.......

[Sir Roofy]

G,day nick sorry to hear another fault with your gu
id say its the alternator,have,nt been in any mud or deep water
yu might get away with stripping and cleaning it

[the evil twin]

Bummer man... I know the first rule of electrical engineering design is to ensure a $1,000 Alternator craps out to protect the 50 cent fuse but it's very annoying

[macca86]

Silly question but how is your belt slipping or anything and if its the alternator and its new shouldn't there be warrenty

[nickpeacock36]

Belt isnt slipping Macca and the alternator is original. I will check the plug and fuse that Rod mentioned and if that isnt the prob will get a newey of ebay.

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[nickpeacock36]

No deep water mate. Not recently anyway.

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[macca86]

Deep water is bad haha. Good luck

[Yendor]

Again thanks mate. Had a look on fleabay and found one in slacks creek for 355 (clutch type) Liz just loves my Patrol, such a cheap reliable car to run lol.

Women :rolleyes: ........they just don't understand. :D

[Yendor]

Bummer man... I know the first rule of electrical engineering design is to ensure a $1,000 Alternator craps out to protect the 50 cent fuse but it's very annoying

LOL......you really do have a dark side. :D

Must have that beer with you around a camp fire one day.

[nickpeacock36]

New alternator fitted and working perfect. Is it coincidence that it busted after using my new solar panel? Am i supposed to connect the panel to the main or second battery?

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[Yendor]

Good to hear it's all sorted.

As far as the alternator is concerned it doesn't matter which battery the solar panel is connected to.

Your solar panel does have it's own regulator?

[nickpeacock36]

It has a regulator. I guess it is just coincidence then.

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[Cuppa]

Had the same problem in our bus when the alternator stopped charging. Problem was a plastic brush holder inside the alternator had broken up & was not allowing the brush to make proper contact with the ring (commutator). Might be worth checking that your brushes don't just need replacing.

Edit: Ahh - I see you have replaced it. If you still have the old one it would be worth checking - might get you a 'cheap' spare.

No connecting the the solar panel via a regulator to either battery would not damage the alternator.

[happygu]

New alternator fitted and working perfect. Is it coincidence that it busted after using my new solar panel? Am i supposed to connect the panel to the main or second battery?

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Good to see you got it all fixed fairly easily....

[brucewaller]

gentlemen,

I have the unfortunate privilege of having a similar problem in my 2.8TD GQ. I have carried out the suggested tasks and found the alternator to be pumping out the appropriate voltage and it appears to be going to the battery as required. I have these symptoms:
1. The filter light, brake light and battery light all come on but only after driving for 15 minutes or so and then only when associated with symptom 2 mentioned below.
2. In addition to the lights there is a significant 'chatter' like a solenoid cutting in and out at a relatively high frequency coming from behind the glove box.

I have cleaned up all the obvious earth points from battery to engine and chassis, as well as the chassis to manifold. All seems well in the battery department.
The manual only mentions door lock timer and circuit breakers behind the glove box though the door lock system obviously has a solenoid involved, I assume it is behind there with the timer, not sure whether mine even has the timer. A 96 model was a bit early for such isn't it?

Any ideas??

Bruce