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Bruce Cowley
3rd January 2013, 09:47 PM
I drive a Nissan Patrol 1999. It has a TD42 motor and I think it is a Y60 model?

There is a pulsing, grinding noise from the front left. Likely from the front left half shaft (terminology?)
In 4WD the sound is right down, almost disappears.
Sometimes after disengaging 4WD the sound becomes less of an issue when back in 2WD.
The pulses is about 1 pulse per second at about 3 000 RPM, ie: Grr... Grr... Grr... Grr...
(Wheel bearings have been replaced and prop shaft greased up.)

Any ideas?

Bruce...

93patrol
3rd January 2013, 09:49 PM
swivel hubs?

Morton
3rd January 2013, 09:56 PM
does it ever sound like a coathanger being dragged along the side of the car on the road? if so it is your hub, are they auto or manual hubs?

Morton
3rd January 2013, 09:57 PM
where r u from mate?

Bruce Cowley
3rd January 2013, 10:09 PM
does it ever sound like a coathanger being dragged along the side of the car on the road? if so it is your hub, are they auto or manual hubs?

No, Not like a coat hanger. It's a deep, pulsing, growling sound.
The hubs are manual.

Bruce Cowley
3rd January 2013, 10:10 PM
where r u from mate?

I'm from Zimbabwe mate!
Central Africa

93patrol
3rd January 2013, 10:11 PM
stupid question but have you checked that your brakepads arent worn to the backing plate??

Bruce Cowley
3rd January 2013, 10:32 PM
Yep, checked and replaced brake pads.
BUT, the brakes sometimes bind! Squeaking noise. Revers a short distance then they free up.

Morton
3rd January 2013, 10:32 PM
stupid question but have you checked that your brakepads arent worn to the backing plate??

x 2, also check that a small rock is not caught in the caliper or between the stone guard & disc etc

happygu
3rd January 2013, 10:46 PM
Hi Bruce,

I would put a Brake Kit through the front caliper, as the brakes should never bind up. The grinding noise you are hearing may be due to a dragging caliper that is not releasing properly.

Try jacking up the front and testing each wheel to see if they both rotate the same with the same amount of force. If they don't then this may be because of the dragging caliper.

You could even undo the caliper bolts and move the brake caliper out of the way, then spin the whell by hand and see if you can still har the grinding noise. If you can, then I would say it is time to check the wheel bearings.

Mic

Bruce Cowley
3rd January 2013, 10:46 PM
Yep, the brakes were checked and pads replaced by a mechanic (Clive). I'm sure in this process any small stones were removed.
The noise is a deep growling! almost like it's a resonance in the chassis. It pulses and peaks at about 3000 rpm (80 - 90kmph) then reduces when at 120. I guess this may be because of road noise?

happygu
3rd January 2013, 10:51 PM
I would definitely look at the wheel bearings then.

How long have they been in, and when were they last checked?

93patrol
3rd January 2013, 10:55 PM
are you sure it not a gearbox noise that sounds like its coming from the front left because you happen to be in the cab, can you hear it outside the car if it passes by you?

Clunk
3rd January 2013, 11:08 PM
You say it happens when its around 3000rpm, is it only at that rev and while your moving or does it also happen when revving whilst stationary.?

happygu
3rd January 2013, 11:36 PM
TD4.2's do have a slight harmonic grumble noise when going thorugh the rev range but it is usually gone well before you get to 3000 rpm.....I don't think it would be that but it is worth a try.

Bruce Cowley
4th January 2013, 12:05 AM
I haven't listened from outside the car as it passes by!
I'll try listen from outside soon!

Bruce Cowley
4th January 2013, 12:09 AM
No noise when stationary!
the pulsing / growling builds up to a peak volume at 3000rpm them gets less noisy as I speed up

Bruce Cowley
4th January 2013, 12:13 AM
Ya, I thought about some kind of harmonic noise in the chassis.
How to find out if that what it is?
About a month ago the noise stopped after the following:
1 Disengaged 4WD
2 Reversed about 2 m
3 drove off in 2WD - No more noise

Bruce Cowley
4th January 2013, 12:15 AM
Wheel bearings replaced about a year ago. the noise didn't stop!
The tyres were also changed from cross ply to radial at the same time

Clunk
4th January 2013, 12:21 AM
I'm no mechanic and not very knowledgeable with all things technical on cars but could it have something to do with the transfer box, seeing as you appear to have less of an issue when in 4wd?........ or as stated earlier possibly gear box.

93patrol
4th January 2013, 12:23 AM
sound like it might more of a transfer box bearing then when were the oils checked and changed you may have to drop it and check the oil for metal filings either by looking or if your eyes are crap like mine use a magnet and runit through. Now you will get metal filings anyway but not excessive amounts

Bruce Cowley
4th January 2013, 12:28 AM
I'm also no mechanic!
BUT I'll probably end up working with a 'bush mechanic" when I get around to stripping the hub / axel.
I'll need to download the workshop manual and I guess tha will give me a better idea of what's happening in the axel / transfer box.

Clunk
4th January 2013, 12:51 AM
Hey Bruce, just go and welcome 8 new members into the intros, you'll get your 25 posts and then be able to download the manuals

Bruce Cowley
4th January 2013, 01:02 AM
Thanks,
I'll check the oils!

I dread having to drop the transfer box!
My eyes are also $%^& so will use magnet if needed.
How often should the oil be changed in the transfer box?
What about the diff - how often to change diff oil?
B...

Bruce Cowley
4th January 2013, 01:04 AM
Cool!
I know 3 other Patrol drivers

Clunk
4th January 2013, 01:14 AM
Thanks,
I'll check the oils!

I dread having to drop the transfer box!
My eyes are also $%^& so will use magnet if needed.
How often should the oil be changed in the transfer box?
What about the diff - how often to change diff oil?
B...
According to the Haynes manual for a gq (y60) patrol, transfer and diff oils should be changed every 40000km or 2 years, which ever comes first......... I guess there'd be no harm in changing your transfer case oil first, may or may not help but certainly the cheapest option first

Bruce Cowley
4th January 2013, 04:56 AM
sound like it might more of a transfer box bearing then when were the oils checked and changed you may have to drop it and check the oil for metal filings either by looking or if your eyes are crap like mine use a magnet and runit through. Now you will get metal filings anyway but not excessive amounts

i'll check the oil this weekend.

Bruce Cowley
4th January 2013, 06:46 AM
Thanks for the advise on the brakes. I'll give it a shot

patroljock52
5th January 2013, 07:15 AM
had the same problem on my LWB and yes it was the caliper front left - in the end I replaced both calipers and procured high performance race rated pads from the USA because I tow a heavy trailer in the Highlands of Scotland and the last thing I want is a brake failure on a downhill section - expensive but at least The nightmares have stopped !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Bruce Cowley
5th January 2013, 04:37 PM
Hi there Mic,

Thanks for the advice. Excuse my ignorance - What is a Brake Kit to put through the caliper?

Bruce...


Hi Bruce,

I would put a Brake Kit through the front caliper, as the brakes should never bind up. The grinding noise you are hearing may be due to a dragging caliper that is not releasing properly.

Try jacking up the front and testing each wheel to see if they both rotate the same with the same amount of force. If they don't then this may be because of the dragging caliper.

You could even undo the caliper bolts and move the brake caliper out of the way, then spin the whell by hand and see if you can still har the grinding noise. If you can, then I would say it is time to check the wheel bearings.

Mic

Bruce Cowley
5th January 2013, 04:47 PM
I often cruise into the Zambezi Valley & I don't want to go careening over the edge with brake failure!

Thanks Patroljock52, have a great day



had the same problem on my LWB and yes it was the caliper front left - in the end I replaced both calipers and procured high performance race rated pads from the USA because I tow a heavy trailer in the Highlands of Scotland and the last thing I want is a brake failure on a downhill section - expensive but at least The nightmares have stopped !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Cameronero
7th January 2013, 12:52 PM
does it ever sound like a coathanger being dragged along the side of the car on the road? if so it is your hub, are they auto or manual hubs?

I reckon I might have that... Is it something that only happens when in 4WD and/or with the hubs locked, or will it make the same sound in 2WD and hubs dis-engaged?

93patrol
7th January 2013, 01:43 PM
Hi there Mic,

Thanks for the advice. Excuse my ignorance - What is a Brake Kit to put through the caliper?

Bruce...

a brake kit involes the new seals for around the brake piston i would probably suggest if your not mechanically mind go to a mechanic that way you will have warrenty and some sort of cover if your brakes fail.

if your are keen to do it yourself let me know and i can walk you through it if you want but it can be a bit of a bastard

happygu
8th January 2013, 07:03 PM
[QUOTE=Bruce Cowley;313825]Hi there Mic,

Thanks for the advice. Excuse my ignorance - What is a Brake Kit to put through the caliper?



As indicated above, I was indicating a complete caliper overhaul, by removing it from the vehicle, pulling out and cleaning up the piston, and putting a new seal kit through it.

The piston should not bind, it should be able to move freely in and out of the caliper housing, and may be all gummed up, which is not letting it slide away from the disc after the brake pedal has been applied.

If your brakes are binding up to the point where it doesn't want to go forwards, and you have to reverse a little, and the piston is sliding in and out freely enough, it may indicate that the master cylinder needs to be overhauled.....

I hope that you are getting closer to the source of your grinding noise