leaks everywhere :(

[Jesse1987]

Well finally got to jump under my bargain gq ..and have found a leak that looks like its coming from the oil sump and another round the sump on the auto gearbbox I think it is ..then there's a leak on my rear drive shaft and on the rear left brake ( all u can see is its wet around the back of the brake ) ... And there's a rust spot about an inch square in the drivers side foot well :(... Now to work out what to Fix first

[megatexture]

I'd prob go the brakes first, wouldn't want them to go bust if they do at least you don't have to worry about the other leaks lol

[Jesse1987]

Haha good point lol

[taslucas]

Just hope the oil leaks are from the sump gaskets not the rear main seal which it is probably likely to be

Tap, crackle, pop

[MudRunnerTD]

Before you get too carried away though Degrease and wash everything and start with Fresh Leaks! ;) Dont chase the ghosts! confirm what is leaking by cleaning it up and seeing exactly where the leaks are.

[MEGOMONSTER]

Before you get too carried away though Degrease and wash everything and start with Fresh Leaks! ;) Dont chase the ghosts! confirm what is leaking by cleaning it up and seeing exactly where the leaks are.

X 2. You need to clean all areas of oil to really see what's going on. Then start your attack.

[threedogs]

X 3 with above give it a decent de grease. might pay to drop the Box/Trans and change the rear main, sump
and any others you can see. Even any welsh plugs. But as suggested brakes first, also dont forget your caliphers and pads
Shite its adding up now. Sorry. Do it now and then years of trouble free 4x4ing

[GQ TANK]

I would pull the rear tyre off and see what is leaking / if there is a leak - if its brake related I would fix first.


Most of the oil leaks will appear when the motor is running - you sould not do any test drives with suspect brakes -.

Also have a look at your master cyclinder is it full?

[93patrol]

if it has drum rear brakes its more than likely a wheel cylinder easy to fix but you ll have to do both sides and replace the brake shoes as well.Dont forget to bleed the brakes after you change the cylinders and brake shoes, get some one to help its easy. All up shoes and cyliders shouldnt cost more than $100 and they come in pairs. take one side off first but leave the other intact incase you forget how they go together that way you can use it as a reference if you get stuck. Try and use jack stands as well when doing this. that way both sides are in the air

[GQ TANK]

When you bleed them dont forget the portionale valve ( sits near the rear diff)

[Morton]

When you bleed them dont forget the portionale valve ( sits near the rear diff)

just curious, why would you bleed the proportioning valve??? seems pointless to me, the fluid has to get past this to get to the rear wheels anyway

[Morton]

brakes first, then seals/gaskets etc, is this rust hole under the excelerator, if so it could be a blocked duct to the windscreen, very common issue, both bottom corners have this T shaped duct, when it is blocked it leaks down the firewall internally & sits in the foot well, causes it to rust out, usually on the join of the floor pan & firewall, bytch to weld due to the sealant used in the joint, difficult access top & bottom, I had my windscreen out, ducts cleaned & refitted, never a drop since, I thought it was a leaking windscreen seal, replaced the seal anyway

[GQ TANK]

When i bleed brakes - I always do all 4 wheels & portional valve - starting with the rear