Solar charging [Archive] - NissanPatrol.com.au Forum

Cuppa

26th November 2012, 04:21 PM

Firstly let me say that on RV forums the topic of fridges & solar probably causes more arguments than any other.

That said I want to make it clear that I am not looking for an argument, but on this topic I have a very different view to ThreeDogs.

Whilst I don't doubt TD's experience, which mirrors that of many solar users, it is not the way I would choose to set up a system.

My 'credentials' are having installed a system which provided us with sufficient power to run a 130 litre fridge, lighting, satellite tv, water pump, stereo, on board air, etc in the bus I converted, for 18 months with no need to plug into power. I am not suggesting that others should install a 'balanced' system like this, but mention it to show that I whilst no expert, I do have sufficient understanding to have 'got it right' for my intended usage.

Intended usage is the key factor. Nothing worse than spending the money & time, only to find yourself chasing your tail & worrying about killing your expensive batteries, & your drinks getting warm.

It is a common misconception that a 65amp hour battery will give you 65 amp hours to play with. Even if fully charged, which it won't be if relying only on the alternator, it is unwise to take it below about 40% to 50% discharge if you want it to last. If you choose to compromise in regard to taking it lower you can pay to replace it more often. The AGM batteries in my bus are still going strong at just over 7 years. Draining batteries until low voltage alarms sound, or fridges won't run any more will probably see that reduced to 12 months, possibly a bit more if the battery is recharged as soon as you get home the next day.

Most fridges today have a low battery setting, which cuts off the fridge when the battery voltage falls to low. They are a joke. Always far too low to give the battery any meaningful protection..... A fridge manufacturers PR exercise. My ARB fridge in the patrol has a Hi, Med & Lo setting. The Hi is 11.8v, the Lo is 10.8v. Even 11.8v is not real healthy for the battery. My 7 year old agm's have never been below 12.3v.

Not sure where the 0.87ah average draw comes from. Looking at Waeco's web page at their 50l dual zone you can see they talk about it using an average of 2.13ah when used as a freezer, & 1.3ah when used just as a fridge. Manufacturers figures are often 'optimistic', & without doubt those usage figures would be way higher in higher ambient temperatures.

I would suggest that for that fridge/freezer, if you want to use it's full range in all weather conditions, you should allow for up to 60ah per day (24 hours).

http://www.waeco.com.au/products5.asp?id=488&subCatId2=69&subCatId=60&catId=57

In ideal conditions a 100w solar panel will give you around 30amp hours per day. So if you wanted to run your fridge indefinitely on just solar you would want a minimum of 200w of panel.

However if your intended usage is only for a max of 3 days at a time, AND you have a smart charger fitted to your vehicle, AND you go with a larger capacity battery, AND you have a single 100w or 120w solar panel, you can arrive at your camp spot fully charged, & gradually deplete your battery over the 3 days, keeping it within it's design parameters (& thus ensuring a long life)......... And ensure cold drinks & good lighting (led because it uses way less power).

What I have suggested is in my opinion a bare bones system which does not take into account any 'buffer' for when the sun doesn't shine.

I would further suggest that when buying a solar regulator to get one with a higher capacity than you currently need, that way if you later choose to get another panel it's just a matter of connecting it.

If you are coming to the fishing get together this weekend I will have my set up there running a 50 litre fridge, 40 litre freezer, lighting & water pump. Hopefully after all I've just said it will work ok......... It will be the camper's 'maiden voyage'. If nothing else it might give us something to 'debate' around the fire. :)

Cuppa

Cuppa

26th November 2012, 04:42 PM

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-120W-Folding-Kit-Solar-Panels-Monocrystalline-Module-12V-Camping-Caravan-/130669029765?pt=AU_Solar&hash=item1e6c7b2985&_uhb=1#ht_2424wt_1175

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/REDARC-DUAL-BATTERY-SYSTEM-ISOLATOR-BCDC1220-BONUS-/300823957976?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item460a8151d8&_uhb=1#ht_2101wt_922

EDIT..... BCDC1220 is incorrect, it should be BCDC1225 .....see my later post.

Together this gives you a 120w solar panel, dc to dc smart charging, ensuring the aux battery gets fully charged when driving, (alternator will only charge to around 70% to 80%) battery isolation to ensure you don't flatten your cranking battery when using your fridge & a solar regulator with sufficient capacity to add a second 120w panel later if desired.

This seller has a good reputation for quality panels. Redarc products are Austalan made, & they have an excellent after sales service & advisory service......provided you have purchased from one of their authors end sellers, which 'Autolecau' in Bairnsdale is (beware not all eBay sellers are).

Cuppa
(Just to be clear I have no connection from either of the two sellers other than being a satisfied customer).

Sir Roofy

26th November 2012, 04:44 PM

Ah good man you can have a look at mine while were there
its simple it works but needs just a tad more oomph

something to think about
ive got 80w solar panel 80amp h battery and running a 110 lt
waeco plus led lights on the roof rack

see what you come up with for the debate around the fire

BigRAWesty

26th November 2012, 04:50 PM

I tend to agree with above on this one. But my specialty is more with RC gear but some of it transfers across.
50% is is probably the minimum you'll want to be depleting your batteries to to ensure a good life time from, but also check your charging current. Many batteries die due to over voltage charging..

Kallen Westbrook
Owner of
Westy's Accessories (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?15134-Westy-s-Accessories.-A-small-back-yard-builder.)

MEGOMONSTER

26th November 2012, 05:27 PM

That said I want to make it clear that I am not looking for an argument, but on this topic I have a very different view to ThreeDogs.

Cuppa

This to me, is so close to being an argument on the weekend but control yourselves and just make it a mass debate. BA Bom. LOL

Never argue with an idiot, cos he'll bring you down to his level, then beat you with experience. Y2K

threedogs

26th November 2012, 06:04 PM

All different systems doing basically the same thing, mine is mobile. Cuppa's fixed, both my trailers will be there but new owner has Changed the system.
hope I get this right but as long as you use the polymonocyrstaline you.re ok the others are too big to acheive the same result. but technology catching up Noticed Ron Moon with roll up panel , some like them fixed but then you have to park in sun to make work. which will make fridge work a tad harder,
Wait till you see my ice box on the weekend may change your mind on short term camps.

healy

26th November 2012, 07:25 PM

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-120W-Folding-Kit-Solar-Panels-Monocrystalline-Module-12V-Camping-Caravan-/130669029765?pt=AU_Solar&hash=item1e6c7b2985&_uhb=1#ht_2424wt_1175

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/REDARC-DUAL-BATTERY-SYSTEM-ISOLATOR-BCDC1220-BONUS-/300823957976?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item460a8151d8&_uhb=1#ht_2101wt_922

Together this gives you a 120w solar panel, dc to dc smart charging, ensuring the aux battery gets fully charged when driving, (alternator will only charge to around 70% to 80%) battery isolation to ensure you don't flatten your cranking battery when using your fridge & a solar regulator with sufficient capacity to add a second 120w panel later if desired.

This seller has a good reputation for quality panels. Redarc products are Austalan made, & they have an excellent after sales service & advisory service......provided you have purchased from one of their authors end sellers, which 'Autolecau' in Bairnsdale is (beware not all eBay sellers are).

Cuppa
(Just to be clear I have no connection from either of the two sellers other than being a satisfied customer).

So the dual batt isolator that's listed above is it much of a difference to the redarc sbl12 or can I keep what I've got and just get the solar panel setup

Cuppa

26th November 2012, 07:43 PM

In the interests of a lively mass debate :animierte-smilies-t there's polycrystalline & monocrystalline. The type which generally cover a significantly larger area per watt are a 3rd type - 'amorphous'. These are said to have better heat tolerance, but for vehicle based set ups their extra size has relegated them to 3rd place. Poly is a bit cheaper than mono, but my experience is that mono is a bit more efficient.

http://www.solarchoice.net.au/blog/which-solar-panel-type-best-suits-your-needs-monocrystalline-polycrystalline-or-amorphous-thin-film/

I don't know anything about the roll up panels other than they are incredibly expensive. $1800+ for 72w. At those sort of prices I'd rather consider one of the Efoy fuel cells

http://www.redarc.com.au/products/category/s-amorphous-flexible-and-folding-solar-panels/

http://www.eco-camper.com/component/virtuemart/category/7/fuel-cells.htm

The system I have on the Patrol is part fixed & part 'mobile'. 1 x 125w mounted on the roof of the cab & 300w loose. 360ah AGM batteries & a Redarc bcdc1240 (40 amp version of the Redarc unit I referred to earlier). As I said this is a system still to be proven. I have attempted to set it up for touring, so that the portable panels will only need to be set up if camped for a couple of nights plus, but once set up should be good for an indefinite stay. The battery capacity I hope will give me a buffer against bad weather for up to a week. I do think too much is better than too little.

I acknowledge that I have no experience of systems set up for short term camps as I imagine may be more common among 4wd'ers. I'll be interested to hear if there are issues I haven't considered that are relevant to this sort of use.

Cuppa

Sir Roofy

26th November 2012, 07:48 PM

So the dual batt isolator that's listed above is it much of a difference to the redarc sbl12 or can I keep what I've got and just get the solar panel setup

ive got the redarc with a simular set up and 80w pannels

mudski

26th November 2012, 08:00 PM

So the dual batt isolator that's listed above is it much of a difference to the redarc sbl12 or can I keep what I've got and just get the solar panel setup

I'm keen to know this too. As I have this isolator in my troll with a Supercharge D70ZZ 100AH secondary battery. I currently have a 190w solar panel setup, I need to change the cheap regulator to a 20A MPPT type. But now I have just purchased an 80L Combi Engel. A bit concerned on how this big Engel will last on the battery with the solar panels.
I may need ot start another thread I think as I have more questions I need answers too.
Sorry for the thread steal...

Cuppa

26th November 2012, 09:24 PM

So the dual batt isolator that's listed above is
it much of a difference to the redarc sbl12 or can I keep what I've
got and just get the solar panel setup

Yes it is different, it is a bit smarter than the SBi12 in that it
allows for different charging voltages of different types of
batteries. ie. if your 65ah battery is an AGM it needs a different
charging regime to your wet starter battery. (But it will survive if you stick with what you have)
More importantly it is also a smart
charger which will ensure you have the best chance of fully charging
your 65ah battery when driving (dependent upon how long you drive for). You could
virtually drive for ever using the SBi12 & still not charge the 65ah
above 80%. This is fine for a starter battery, but when you are
relying on having the full capacity to make your fridge use last
longer when you get to camp starting at 80% & not taking it below say
50% means you only have 30%, or about 20ah to play with.

I have two separate systems in our bus, one uses an Sbi24 (24v
version), actually it's a slightly different 2 way version the SBi4D,
which allows the solar connected to the house batteries to charge the
starter batteries, as well as charging the house batteries from the
alternator. (Readily available by special order, but not generally advertised).
In this case though both sets of batteries are AGM's (so have the same charging needs) & the
solar 'tops up' the batteries through the multi stage charger
incorporated in the solar reg. This works ok, because I have plenty of solar capacity for a lightly used system, your proposed system would be more marginal & thus not have the same degree of 'flexibility'. I used to have wet starters but they
didn't last as long due to being overcharged from the solar. The AGM's
survived this regime ok however.

Bottom line is that whilst the SBi12 will work in your situation, it likely wont work well enough, & without doubt can be improved upon. Horses for courses. Depends on the condition of the wallet. For $200 you could buy a panel with a cheap regulator attached & give it a try. If it suits...... great, if not you can throw away the regulator, sell the SBi12 & buy/install a BCDC1220.

Cuppa

mudski

26th November 2012, 09:59 PM

Bottom line is that whilst the SBi12 will work in your situation, it likely wont work well enough, & without doubt can be improved upon. Horses for courses. Depends on the condition of the wallet. For $200 you could buy a panel with a cheap regulator attached & give it a try. If it suits...... great, if not you can throw away the regulator, sell the SBi12 & buy/install a BCDC1220.

Cuppa
Sorry to jump in again. This last comment i'm interested to know more. I have 190w panel setup, which does have a cheap regulator, and I also do have a SBi12 with a 100AH deep cycle. So, I can run the panels without the regulator? If I use a BCDC1220? My panels are portable too BTW? I don't want to go out and spent $90'ish for a MPPT 20A regulator when I don't need too.

thanks.

Cuppa

26th November 2012, 10:39 PM

Ummm I wouldn't advise using the panels without a regulator.

I have an an apology to make. The BCDC1220 is NOT a solar regulator (it has no solar regulation function) I thought it was the same as my BCDC1240 which is an MPPT solar reg. The lower amperage model that IS an MPPT solar regulator, DC to DC smart charger and battery isolator in one is the BCDC1225 - a 25 amp version of what I have. Sorry for causing any confusion folks.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/REDARC-BCDC1225-DUAL-BATTERY-SYSTEM-ISOLATOR-DC-TO-DC-CHARGER-MPPT-SOLAR-NEW-/300824142417?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item460a842251&_uhb=1#ht_1784wt_1348

http://www.redarc.com.au/images/uploads/files/news/bcdc1225_new_prod_release_-_std_02052012.pdf

http://www.redarc.com.au/images/uploads/images/BCDC1225_Instruction_Manual.pdf

Cuppa

Woof

27th November 2012, 01:16 AM

Just made this thread Sticky as I think that it will be very helpful to everyone for future reference.
Can everyone please continue adding to it and especially after the fishing get together trip, when this topic is discussed around the campfire...................I have an ulterior motive as well, I need a solar panel for my fridge...lol

mudski

27th November 2012, 07:58 AM

Thanks cuppa for the info. At that price for the BCDC1225, I think i just buy a decent MPPT 20A reg for my panels. I have a front locker I'm supposed to be saving for.

Cuppa

27th November 2012, 09:56 AM

Thanks cuppa for the info. At that price for the BCDC1225, I think i just buy a decent MPPT 20A reg for my panels. I have a front locker I'm supposed to be saving for.

Hi mudski,
I agree that in your situation that is probably the best solution for short/weekend camps. Having the BCDC1225 would extend your time a bit, but as your solar will give you around 55ah per day & your fridge will use up to around 60ah per day you can easily last a long weekend (& often more) without taking your battery down to damaging levels (provided the sun shines of course). In those circumstances the extra cost of the BCDC is not economic.

For anyone interested the rule of thumb I use for calculating daily output of panels is their wattage divided by their nominal voltage & multiplied by 70%. This gives the hourly output. I then use an average of 5 sun hours per day to calculate daily output. So, for example using a 100w panel @ 12v. 100 divided by 12 = 8.3ah. 8.3x70%=5.8ah (hourly output). 5.8ah x 5 =29.1ah per day. Close enough to 30ah per day for a rule of thumb.

Why multiply by 70%? ..... This allows for the losses associated with the less than optimum positioning of the panels. ie. mounted on the roof of the vehicle. If portable panels are used & the owner is conscientious enough to angle them correctly & move them to face the sun every hour or so throughout the day output can be increased a bit above that 70%.

Sun hours - the average number of sun hours varies according to location & time of year. I have found 5 to be a reasonable average. Up north they could go as high as 7 in summer, & as low as 3 down south in winter.

I should acknowledge that these figures do not come from my head, but are digested from the very easy to read books written by Collyn Rivers (http://www.caravanandmotorhomebooks.com/) whom I have known personally for a number of years.

Cuppa

lorrieandjas

27th November 2012, 11:48 AM

I think Cuppa is on the money. Going to be an interesting debate this weekend, however something I have always kept in mind for camping power, solar, etc is that there are some things that are fact (physics), some things that are myth (or just plain incorrect) and some that come down to use, location and quality.

For example:

Fact - the laws of physics determine such things as watts, amps, volts, losses, etc and their calculation. These are inviolable and true.

Myth - heaps of them out there and generally debunked by the above.

Use - this is where it gets interesting. There is no one size fits all (some come close) setup as everyone has different needs. Things like location and season determine amount of sunlight hours if solar is a consideration. Size of fridges, beer consumption (ie how often a fridge is opened 'cause you don't open them for any other reason right?) and lighting setup, other accessories, amount of time used, etc all determine power requirements.

I have found in the past, and I think threedogs advocates this as well, that putting together a list of your power consuming devices is the first step. Second step is working out how long you need to be self-sufficient for, third step is working out what type of camping/use you require. Ie - are you totally "off the grid" for weeks at a time, or do you need a fridge to run in the back of the car until you get to that powered campsite? Do you need a mix of both - in which case variable setups are a good option. Cost is another factor to consider as well.

Sorry - haven't really added to the solution (as I think there are different horses for courses) but hopefully some food for thought on some of the considerations.

For what it's worth Cuppa's post above is very, very useful and a very good rule of thumb in my opinion based on physics, use and experience.

Jas

threedogs

27th November 2012, 12:55 PM

Little bit off thread, but I always travel with an Esky/icebox for beer, Need fuel everyday, so might as well get ice at the same time. Engel,waceo or national luna no good.if I boil. but my esky along with my water supply will keep me safe and possibly back "on the road again" Too many ifs with Solar, might take it and it'll rain all weekend for nothing of well, thats camping eh. lol.

Cuppa

27th November 2012, 01:46 PM

Not off thread at all TD. It's another solution to keeping things cold. If whatever solution someone adopts works for them it is the right solution. A lot to be said for the KISS principle. However I will say that a 'half hearted' solar installation based upon 'somebody said' rather than on the specific needs & usage of the individual is often a pain in the a*se as jas infers.

Cuppa

lorrieandjas

27th November 2012, 01:57 PM

Agree Cuppa and Threedogs. I use a Waeco 80L Coolbox and it keeps the cans cold and I've managed to keep it with ice for up to 3 days...... By that time need more beer anyway so good time to stock up on ice as well!

Jas

threedogs

27th November 2012, 03:05 PM

Sort of enhanced my ice box to make it a bit more efficient, those on the the weekend will see,
Made another lid that hides 25mm of polystyrene. I just leave in sun all weekend no probs,
Jas if you up your can per day ratio it'll throw your travel plans all out of whack, LOL

lorrieandjas

27th November 2012, 03:17 PM

Jas if you up your can per day ratio it'll throw your travel plans all out of whack, LOL

And it's a real pain when that happens! :) Easier just to stick to consistent drinking routine!

Maxhead

27th November 2012, 03:43 PM

Great thread boys,,, One question though an I think MudRunner has answered this before but what is a good panel?

Do we look at the efficiency percentage or do we look at the current output per Watt or something else? You can quickly work out proper current output by max voltage but how can you trust the figures on the web sites /ebay, etc?

I have a 120W panel on my van and max I seem to get out of it is 5A. It bloody cost an arm and a leg just about so I might have been ripped. So price is not always the quality factor

lorrieandjas

27th November 2012, 04:09 PM

One of the factors that is recommended to look at is definitely efficiency - not much good to have a 100W panel with 20% efficiency - also need to look at efficiency degradation over time. Some of the lesser quality panels degrade very quickly whilst others have a slower reduction in efficiency. Basically the most efficient panel you can get is the best. As an example a 100W panel at 70% efficiency puts out 70W. So W=VA so A=W/V or in this case Amps = 70/12 = 5.83Amps per hour. Now if you have an 80W panel at 90% efficiency you get Amps = 72/12 = 6Amps per hour.

Jas

Cuppa

27th November 2012, 04:57 PM

Efficiency. I would be very happy to have panels with a 20% efficiency!

What Jas is referring to is not what is most commonly referred to when manufacturers of panels talk about efficiency. Generally the efficiency of a panel refers to it's output in comparison to the amount of sunlight that falls onto it. ie. it's conversion efficiency. The best of the current standard is up around 18%. Just a few years ago 15% was considered pretty good. Thought I should clarify that as it's another area for confusion.

That said, my view is that at the prices of solar panels today it's probably not worth getting too worried about it, although there have been some sellers flogging off panels on ebay stating they were such & such wattage, when in fact they were lower. The 'giveaway' was that they did not include the size of the panel in their ad. If you know the dimensions of the panel you can work out it's area & then compare to other 'known quantities'. If the area is less - steer clear. I, & a number of others I know, have purchase panels from Bit Deals (Bitoo) & OzPlaza on ebay & have been happy with the quality. The 125w Bit Deals panel (Rich Solar brand) i mounted on an angle on the cabin roof was putting out around 7.5 amps when I tested it on a hazy sunny day. Given my 70% expectation I was more than happy. (It is common for new panels to exceed there rated output when new). My OzPlaza folding panels work equally well. All are as good as the 125w Kyoceras I bought in 2006 at a cost of over $1100 each back then, posibly better (& at a fifth of the price). My two 60w Solarex panels, also bought in 2006 (both second hand) will start to give a little (only talking fractions of an amp) output earlier & later in the day than the Kyoceras. There are some issues with buying panels intended for home roof installation, which have different voltage outputs (some of which can be overcome using some MPPT regulators), but although cheaper are probably best avoided unless you know what you doing.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solar_panel

http://sroeco.com/solar/most-efficient-solar-panels

http://www.ecogeek.org/solar-power/1329 Note the date on the last link. There have been many claims about increased efficiency in solar technology over the past few years, but as yet none have reached the market in an affordable package, many have not reached the market at all.

Cuppa

lorrieandjas

27th November 2012, 05:03 PM

You're right Cuppa and thanks for clarifying so I didn't add more confusion!

Cuppa

27th November 2012, 05:17 PM

Another possibility which can make a panel appear to be putting out less amps than it is rated for is cable sizing. If too thin you get voltage drop (from the wire's resistance) & consequently less amps. A common trap for the unwary is that automotive cables sizes include the insulation so that, if for example someone needs 6mm2 cable for a certain length & buys 6mm autocable, the size of the copper core in the autocable will only be about 4.5mm2, & could easily account for the loss of a couple of amps output (lost to the cable as heat).I have used 6 B&S (13.2mm2) for a 10metre length to my 300w of portable panels.

lorrieandjas

27th November 2012, 05:22 PM

On top of that poor connections, regulators in the wrong position, etc cause losses - and in some cases significant losses. When you're talking 6 amp input and loss of say 1.5 amps then you're already 25% behind the game. Whilst there is science behind it all I think there is also quite an art in having a good setup that suits your needs. On the other hand - sometimes the effort to gain a little isn't always worth it! Depends on circumstances again!

Jas

mudski

27th November 2012, 08:55 PM

Bloodyaussie

27th November 2012, 09:00 PM

You lot hurt my head... Mark give me the lowdown when you have figured it all out!!!!!

mudski

27th November 2012, 09:04 PM

Yeah it does my head in too. I'm trying my hardest to understand it all.

Cuppa

27th November 2012, 10:30 PM

My next question was. What about voltage drop through cabling? But its been mentioned. Cuppa, thats another thing i know I have to change on my panels. Do you have and recommendations of where and what to buy? Plus is using aligator clips still o.k to use?

This link should assist Mudski. http://hobohome.com/news/?p=581 The link has been around for a few years but the needed info still holds true.

You will see that the cable sizing depends upon length & the wattage of the panels. For your 190w & say 10 metres of cable you will need at least 9.5mm2 of copper. This equates to to 6 B&S (or 6 AWG) as the next size up that is readily available. 8 B&S (thinner than 6 B&S) would be ok if you keep your cable run to 8 metres. (Probably what I'd do in your situation)

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/awg-wire-gauge-d_731.html

You will be surprised how heavy the cable is, but remember it's sizing is about reducing voltage drop, not about it's current carrying capacity. Aim for no more than a 0.3v difference between the output measured at the panel & at the end of the cable.

For the sake of a just a few dollars fitting a 50amp Anderson plug to the end of your cable & to your vehicle (going to battery & regulator) you will get a much better & more secure connection than using alligator clips. Whilst you're at it fit the same at the other end of the cable & to the back of your panel.

Mount the regulator as close to the battery as possible & if you can afford it, get one that has temperature compensation, preferably via a probe that goes to the battery. Even more important if the battery is somewhere subject to extremes, like under the bonnet, & the regulator elsewhere.
Not sure I'd want to put a regulator under the bonnet, so would need to include the distance of cable between battery & regulator in the total distnce of cabling from the panels when working out cabling size. If you just went with 6 B&S it may be a bit of overkill, but you'd be sure you had things covered.

Because of where I live I buy most of my stuff online. Ebay is my friend. eg. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10-METRES-X-6B-S-TWIN-CORE-CABLE-DUAL-BATTERY-SYSTEM-12V-6-B-S-10M-125-AMP-125A-/400347335495?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d368f8b47&_uhb=1#ht_1223wt_1342

Haven't used them but Jay-Dee in Bayswater have all you need & a downloadable catalogue. http://jaydeeautocables.com.au

I bought genuine Anderson plugs after hearing stories of premature corrosion on the connectors of copies (Genuine have a silver coating). Corrosion will give head scratching problems if it becomes a problem.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220805494050&ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:AU:3160#ht_4649wt_1108 2 pieces per connection.

Cuppa

mudski

27th November 2012, 10:46 PM

Cuppa your a champ. Your going to regret answering my questions as you know more will come. Actually, this was the reg I saw on Ebay to get : http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/370555699777?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 I was just going to remove the crappy one off the back of the panels and put this one in its place. So I should really mount the reg actually in the car? What if I wanted to use the panels on a totally independent battery? Had plans on putting a third battery in a box in the trailer so the fridge or light could run off that too if needed.

Cuppa

27th November 2012, 11:30 PM

You've heard the old saying 'Oils an't oils'.
Well MPPT aint MPPT. The effectiveness of MPPT depends very much on the charging algorithms used & different manufacturers have different ideas about this. There is a reason why Blue Sky regulators cos 10 times what that Wellsee one costs, & even the Blue Sky ones aren't perfect.

My view is that buying a cheap MPPT regulator is that it's not a great idea, & that you would be better off buying one without MPPT, just with PWM instead (Pulse Width Modulation). Now we are gettin to terms that start to challenge my understanding so I wont try to explain these terms.

Suffice it to say I've heard others who know more than me advising to avoid the Wellsee units, & have read of folks that have been disappointed with them.

For the kind of money you are talking about spending the following two regulators are ones that I know of. One that I've used, & one that a number of people I know have used, both succesfully over a number of years.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Solar-Controller-Regulator-20A-LCD-Display-Steca-/261126037314?pt=AU_Solar&hash=item3ccc531f42&_uhb=1#ht_5736wt_1342

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SOLAR-REGULATOR-PANEL-CHARGE-12-VOLT-20A-CARAVAN-BOAT-/360352427029?pt=AU_Boat_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53e6adac15&_uhb=1#ht_3425wt_1342

Both have readouts which are useful in giving you an idea of whats going on.

Yes mount the regulator as close to the battery as possible. A mate of mine (with the 2nd of those two regulators) used his panels to alternately charge batteries in his bus & in his trailer. His solution was to have the regulator attached to the end of the cable to the panels, inside a box with a perspex window, which lay on the ground, with a short cable going from it to anderson plugs on either the bus or the trailer (& then directly to the battery). The alternative is to use 2 regulators , one for each location. I have the Steca version of the first regulator. It has always falsely under read battery voltage by 0.3v but has been reliable & consistent & has temperature compensation, albeit not directly at the battery. The first one has a battery temperature probe & talks of protection against battery overheating but doesn't say it has temperature compensated charging.

Cuppa

mudski

28th November 2012, 04:56 PM

How much of a difference, really, is it going to be having the reg mount on the panels rather than closest to the battery? Never mind that question. Probably a lot considering we are only talking about 190W so every little bit would count hey.

Cuppa

28th November 2012, 05:46 PM

Egg zactly.

mudski

2nd December 2012, 09:44 PM

Waza

2nd December 2012, 10:28 PM

Very interesting stuff here !
Now I'm even more torn between solar or a generator, but I like it ;-)

mudski

3rd December 2012, 08:10 AM

Waza, both have their pro's and cons. Solar's pro it that its quiet, its con is that if there no sun it almost next to useless. A gennie does make noise, the more you spend the quieter they get, but I have seen $500 gennies that I wouldn't use as they still made too much noise for my liking. Don't ever buy the real cheap Ebay/ Aldi two stroke ones. They are real noisy. But gennies give you constant supply on demand.
With Solar though, you have a battery pack so you use the power from that anyways and depending on what your running and how long for it wont need a charge until you get home.
We went three days running an Engel and two, one metre long LED strip lights on a 105AH deep cycle battery. Battery only dropped 1.2v in that time.

healy

3rd December 2012, 11:14 AM

Should I keep the alligator clips or put Anderson plug on?

threedogs

3rd December 2012, 11:56 AM

Flouro lights will work your panel, does it have a blocking diode???
Anderson plug
Just back from Murray 3 nights very , very humid never ran out of battery, but never used solar to top up as well.
Get quality equipment that wont fail. work out your power needs etc, make sure you chase the sun during the day. 100-115 AH battery would be tops for most 4x4ers.
start to get real heavy after that.
80 watt panel will return 4.5 amps an hour under ideal conditions, sunny

lorrieandjas

3rd December 2012, 12:16 PM

Should I keep the alligator clips or put Anderson plug on?

Anderson plugs all the way!

mudski

3rd December 2012, 05:04 PM

Flouro lights will work your panel, does it have a blocking diode???

If your asking me TD thats a pic of one panel of three in total. Blocking diode? Don't even know what it is... I'm going to get some heavier cable too as the current cable is as thick as brickies string.
As for soldering Anderson plugs, they'll have to be sweat soldered. Would a butane torch bet enough to do this?

threedogs

3rd December 2012, 05:31 PM

Meds kicking in I now know what Bob was about. Crimp then use butane torch then shink wrap on anderson pins.
Cuppa has a write up on cable size. Cuppa's has like jumper lead size, his are not but you'll get what I mean.
A blocking diode will stop the battery leaking power out of your panel overnigh , but a decent reg would do the same thing'
IMO 6mm cable would be heaps as your panel will be 17- 30 volts tops
You'll only need smaller plug not the large anderson ones
What do you need 3 panels and what size please for, sounds like overkill to me

mudski

3rd December 2012, 06:32 PM

Thats how it came, three panels that fold up. I was actually thinking of separating the three so I could use one, two or three, at any time. Kind of piggy back them when I need it.

threedogs

3rd December 2012, 06:42 PM

What size,or how many watts are 3 x panel. I'll do some maths, what do you require to run. This weekend hot right, right Supplied lighting every night via two led, out of an 18 AH motor bike size battery. Engel kept food cold and a doz can after we forgot ice that we paid for. So had to chill them down. Never even looked liked using a panel. Would have needed if staying a day or too longer. Guys here use way too many panels etc, you could light a city

gaddy

3rd December 2012, 08:51 PM

Cuppa

3rd December 2012, 09:06 PM

That panel appears to be mismatched to the regulator. I believe those CMP12 regulators are only 12 volt. I think the panel specs in the pic make it a 24 volt panel. This would be unsuitable for charging a single 12 volt battery even though the Steca you've ordered can handle 12v or 24v.

Cabling from panels to regulator, if long enough to be useful needs to be much thicker than 6mm2. For 10 metres 6 B&S is the go (this is 13.2mm2 conductor).

Anderson plugs can be soldered on easily with a blow torch & finished off with heatshrink. To crimp them you'll need a hydraulic crimper or a mechanical one with long enough handles. I bought a hydraulic one for under $70 & it's been good. Crimps from 6mm2 up to 70mm2.

My Patrol's solar system was tested for the first time last weekend & it performed to expectations. With hot weather, mainly heavy cloud cover & camped under trees there was little solar input available. The best I saw were short periods when the panels were keeping up with the demands of the fridge & freezer whilst they were cycling & putting up to 5 or 6 amps of charge into the batteries at the same time. From the Friday arvo through to the Sunday morning batterry charge gradually diminished to around 60% to 65% state of charge, minimum voltage with the 40 litre freezer & 60 litre fridge running was 12.3v. I would have been happy to have gone another 24 hours of similar conditions before choosing to move to a sunnier spot, start the car or switch off the freezer. Lighting & water pump power usage were negligible.
This was with 425w solar & 360ah of batteries. The 400+ kilometre drive home was sufficient for the 40amp DC to DC charger to bring the batteries back to 100%. In most times solar input would be better than we had, but the weekend proved that in the worst solar conditions we have a buffer of at least of around 4 days usage. Most times solar input is better than we had, so the poor weather buffer is, for us, quite adequate. For weekend only usage the system is overkill, but for worry free long term travel I think it about right.

Cuppa

mudski

3rd December 2012, 09:38 PM

What size,or how many watts are 3 x panel. I'll do some maths, what do you require to run.

Each panel is 60W. so 180W in total I have. The aux battery is a Supercharge D70ZZ 105AH. I just bought a 80L Engel Combi. Prolly too big for my needs, 60L would have been more than enough, but what I paid for it new with a transit bag was cheaper than a 60L by itself...Also will be running two, one metre long LED strip lights.

That panel appears to be mismatched to the regulator. I believe those CMP12 regulators are only 12 volt. I think the panel specs in the pic make it a 24 volt panel. This would be unsuitable for charging a single 12 volt battery even though the Steca you've ordered can handle 12v or 24v.

Cabling from panels to regulator, if long enough to be useful needs to be much thicker than 6mm2. For 10 metres 6 B&S is the go (this is 13.2mm2 conductor).

Anderson plugs can be soldered on easily with a blow torch & finished off with heatshrink. To crimp them you'll need a hydraulic crimper or a mechanical one with long enough handles. I bought a hydraulic one for under $70 & it's been good. Crimps from 6mm2 up to 70mm2.
Well going by the pic cuppa it says 24v on the panel so your right on the panel but the controller I don't know but the Steca will fix that issue.

The 400+ kilometre drive home was sufficient for the 40amp DC to DC charger to bring the batteries back to 100%.

As the Patrol alternator doesn't fully charge the aux battery I take it I need to get one of those chargers too?

Cuppa

3rd December 2012, 09:49 PM

Hi all
I have been following this thread with a bit of interest,as i was thinking of getting into solar for camping and for the boat , after reading this and other articles on the subject , i think the 1kva honda and smart charger will be staying for a lot longer yet , reliable quite , and simple like me , only use it every couple of days , for about 2 hrs while away , i run 2 x 120 amp hr batteries in the camper on a full charge they will run the lights radio etc for 2 weeks and only use the genny to keep them toped up .
but each to there own this is just what i do
cheers
Gaddy

Horses for courses again.
The big power user in any camping set up is the 12v compressor fridge. If using a gas fridge or an ice box power requirements are minimal so 240Ah of battery will certainly give plenty of light & sound. Using a gennie to occasionally charge those batteries in imho the considerate way to use one if one must be used.

I have to admit that I am a gennie hater. I do have one, a little EU10i Honda, about the quietest you can buy, but given the choice of the sounds of nature or the hum of a generator in the background, nature wins everytime. It's the main reason I like being 'out there', not to hear a bloody motor running & to smell it's exhaust fumes. I bought ours as insurance against the solar system in our bus letting us down, but never needed to use it for that purpose, the only time I used it was to charge the crank battery every couple of days when the alternator karked it, until we could get a replacement alternator. Even then I always let any neighbours know that I would need to run it, & then only during the middle of the day for a couple of hours. We no longer carry it together with the fuel required in our bus. It gets used occasionally at home to power tools out in the paddocks for which it is very good.

I do accept that others find the use of generators to be more financially viable than setting up a solar system although the reduced price of solar panels now makes the costs of ether way of going quite similar, but gennies often get chosen because they are easier to understand i reckon.

I prefer that those with gennies camp away from me or I from them. Problem is that it seems not uncommon for some folk to behave as though it is their god given right to run their noisy stinky gennies whenever & wherever they like, regardless of the impact upon others around them.

Of course carrying a gennie means also having to carry separate fuel in containers.

A well set up solar system, in my view, wins hands down. If properly done it is a source of constant satisfaction that once established is a silent set & forget system.

Cuppa

Cuppa

3rd December 2012, 10:25 PM

Well going by the pic cuppa it says 24v on the panel so your right on the panel but the controller I don't know but the Steca will fix that issue.

Not if you are planning to charge a 12v battery!

24v panels & regulator will require a minimum of two 12v batteries wired together in series to make them 24v. And then you will need all 24 volt appliances or a means of getting 12v from a 24v system....... either a 24v to 12v converter or a charge equaliser. Don't even think about tapping 12v off one of the 24v pair.

Some MPPT regulators can charge 12v batteries from 24v panels I believe, but have had no experience of this.

An advantage of using 24v is that thinner cable can be used. Many fridges with Danfoss compressors can run on 24v, but other appliances if required are less common & more expensive than their 12v equivalents.

180w @ 24v is equivalent to 360w @12v ...... which is plenty in good solar weather.

As the Patrol alternator doesn't fully charge the aux battery I take it I need to get one of those chargers too?

Probably not if just setting up for trips of short duration (long weekends) if you ensure the battery is fully charged at home using a multi stage mains charger before leaving, & recharge as soon as you get back home. More battery capacity would give you a buffer against poor solar weather.

So if your fridge can run on 24v you will need a second 105ah battery & you can also use 24v led lighting & have a very nice system which will meet your needs. Cable sizing can be revised down accordingly. Each battery should be in roughly equal condition. If you series connect an old semi knackered battery to a new one it will reduce the life of the new one. Each of the pair should be of the same type & capacity.

If your fridge can't run on 24v you could be in a little strife & might be better off using different panels.

If you want to use your fridge for longer periods a dc to dc charger would be a useful & reasuring addition, but if your vehicle is 12v & the 'house system' is 24v this brings added issues.

Cuppa

gaddy

3rd December 2012, 10:41 PM

yes there are a alot of people that do not respect those around them . we mainly beach camp well away from neighbours and only run the genny if we are out of ear shot of other campers . and never of a night time it is only used to top up the second battery if we dont drive for a few days . you would be the most nogiable person on solar set ups and i have read your posts with great interest , i am sure i will end up with one in the future ,

mudski

3rd December 2012, 11:04 PM

Not if you are planning to charge a 12v battery!

24v panels & regulator will require a minimum of two 12v batteries wired together in series to make them 24v. And then you will need all 24 volt appliances or a means of getting 12v from a 24v system....... either a 24v to 12v converter or a charge equaliser. Don't even think about tapping 12v off one of the 24v pair.

Some MPPT regulators can charge 12v batteries from 24v panels I believe, but have had no experience of this.

An advantage of using 24v is that thinner cable can be used. Many fridges with Danfoss compressors can run on 24v, but other appliances if required are less common & more expensive than their 12v equivalents.

180w @ 24v is equivalent to 360w @12v ...... which is plenty in good solar weather.

Probably not if just setting up for trips of short duration (long weekends) if you ensure the battery is fully charged at home using a multi stage mains charger before leaving, & recharge as soon as you get back home. More battery capacity would give you a buffer against poor solar weather.

So if your fridge can run on 24v you will need a second 105ah battery & you can also use 24v led lighting & have a very nice system which will meet your needs. Cable sizing can be revised down accordingly. Each battery should be in roughly equal condition. If you series connect an old semi knackered battery to a new one it will reduce the life of the new one. Each of the pair should be of the same type & capacity.

If your fridge can't run on 24v you could be in a little strife & might be better off using different panels.

If you want to use your fridge for longer periods a dc to dc charger would be a useful & reasuring addition, but if your vehicle is 12v & the 'house system' is 24v this brings added issues.

Cuppa
So the panels I bought, which are 3 x 24v wired together is o.k for me to connect to my aux battery only? I'm kinda getting worried now that I have the wrong thing. The Steca I have ordered will be o.k for my setup to replace the existing controller. Sorry if it feels like were going over this again but I kinda want to make sure I'm doing the right thing...

Thanks.

Cuppa

3rd December 2012, 11:35 PM

So the panels I bought, which are 3 x 24v wired together is o.k for me to connect to my aux battery only? I'm kinda getting worried now that I have the wrong thing. The Steca I have ordered will be o.k for my setup to replace the existing controller. Sorry if it feels like were going over this again but I kinda want to make sure I'm doing the right thing...

Thanks.

Sorry Mudski, you cannot connect 24v panels to a 12v battery. The Steca (assuming it's a PR model) can work with either 24v or 12v, but this will not allow you to charge a 12v battery with a 24v panel.

Because I have never heard of 24v folding panels before I would advise you to check the open circuit voltage of the panels in case they have been mis-labelled. Put them in the sun, put the multimeter onto volts & put one probe on each output cable. If they are 12 v panels you should get a reading of up to about 18v. If they are 24v you should get a reading of up to about 31v.

Find this out first & we then we can take it from there.

Cuppa

PS. I have checked & that CMP12 Regulator DOES have 12v & 24v capability so it is looking like you most likely do have 24v panels, but check anyway.

the evil twin

3rd December 2012, 11:41 PM

Hey me again. I decided to get out the panels yesty and use them to charge up a couple of batteries. One thing I noticed on the controller that the charge light never came on and the load light was on. Then, I unplugged everything, folded the panels up and took it into the garage and about an hour later I noticed the charge light on the controller was glowing. Not even it sun light and not even connected to a battery. Was gives there?
I have only used these once before and even then I was suspicious that they were not working but I just put it down to not enough sun. So I am keen to work this out.
Heres a pic of the glowing charge light on the controller, the specs on the back of the panel and the leads supplied with the panels. I also have ordered the Steca controller too. Just the cable to get, and some connectors.

Thanks.

One issue you have is that they are 24 Volt spec panels IE the maximum current each one will put out is just over 2 amps.
What that means in practical terms is with a PV controller as pictured is you essentially have the equivalent of one 90 Watt 12Volt Panel (19 volts peak) or a pair of 50's... IE you can only harness less than 50% of the panel rating at 12 volts due to the current limit.

Regards the Charge LED I'd suggest depending on the order you disconnected the equipment that there is enough capacitance to hold a charge sufficient to light the LED for a period of time

Regards the Load LED I'd suggest it is illuminated because you are below the low voltage cut off when the Reg is in 24 Volt mode

Sooo what you have is a 180 Watt 24 Volt nominal setup. If you wanted to you could use that reg with 12 Volt panels but might be better off flogging the lot as a set and getting a 12 Volt nominal setup.

Cuppa

4th December 2012, 12:35 AM

Mudski - I was mistaken & ET is correct. I said 180w@24v was the equivalent of 360w @ 12v. I doubled when I should have halved. This changes most of what I recommended, sorry. (it's late & I'm tired)
Assuming you do have 24v panels, ET's suggestion of flogging the panels & getting some 12v panels is the way to go. Fingers crossed that you have bought a 20 amp Steca in which case you will still be able to use it with 12v panels of useful size. If it's a 10 amp model it will be too small if you hope to have panels which will keep up to the needs of an 80 litre fridge.

ET... are you suggesting that the regulator can accept an input @ 24v & give an output @ 12v. I didn't think this was possible but will happily bow to greater knowledge. I thought that nominal 24v in meant nominal regulated 24v out. There are no user adjustable settings on that reg, so how would it know to convert output to 12v? Is the output automatically determined by battery voltage independently of input voltage. If so that surprises me on what is a very cheap reg.

Cuppa

mudski

4th December 2012, 08:10 AM

This is the exact panels I bought : http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-GP-12v-Folding-Portable-Solar-Panel-Kit-Camping-Power-Generator-Home-Battery-/271078616212?pt=AU_Solar&hash=item3f1d8b6c94
I want to find out whether they are working properly or not before I try to flog them off as I really don't think they are working correctly.

Regards the Charge LED I'd suggest depending on the order you disconnected the equipment that there is enough capacitance to hold a charge sufficient to light the LED for a period of time

Understood but strange as the charge light doesn't come on when I have everything connected and the panels basking in the in the sun.

Regards the Load LED I'd suggest it is illuminated because you are below the low voltage cut off when the Reg is in 24 Volt mode
I have tried connecting to many different batteries, even my aux battery which was at 12.4v.
If these are faulty which I suspect they are, I want to return them before the warranty runs out. I don't want to sell something that I'm not sure works. The first time I used them, last Easter weekend, 4 sunny days we had. I had the panels on the whole time and the whole time there the charge light never came on and I ended up with a flat battery. Putting it down to my inexperience I just thought my fridge, 32L Engel, was using more power than the panels could produce.

Because I have never heard of 24v folding panels before I would advise you to check the open circuit voltage of the panels in case they have been mis-labelled. Put them in the sun, put the multimeter onto volts & put one probe on each output cable. If they are 12 v panels you should get a reading of up to about 18v. If they are 24v you should get a reading of up to about 31v.

Find this out first & we then we can take it from there.

I did this and the best I could get was no higher than 3v. Yes, 3 Volts.

Cuppa

4th December 2012, 01:51 PM

A) It does sound like they might be faulty if you could only get 3v (sure it wasn't 30v?).

But regardless of whether they are faulty or not

B) Demand your money back under warranty because you have been supplied with 24v panels which were advertised as 12v. Goods are not as described.

Even the specs in their ad don't match up If the Max Power voltage is 13.8v (12v panel) then the open circuit voltage would not be 31.5v as stated. (Max of 18 to 22v on a 12v panel). The dimensions on label of your panel are also different to what is in the ad.

If it were me I would not be prepared to accept any replacement panels from this seller but would buy elsewhere. There are some reputable sellers on ebay who sell good panels.

Good luck.

Cuppa

mudski

4th December 2012, 02:35 PM

I sent them a message via Ebay. I bet they don't respond to quick about this...

lorrieandjas

4th December 2012, 02:44 PM

As Cuppa has said worth following up. Sounds like they know (or care) a whole lot less about their product than some on this forum!

Jas

threedogs

4th December 2012, 03:20 PM

X 2 with Cuppa your panels in full sun no cloud should be putting out 17 volts , sounds like the wrong panels
Engel on a hot day , being used for drinks all day open and closing would last 2 .5 days tops in 35 degree temps
Last weekend my battery only just lasted from thursday , only cause BFF topped it up with 10 hot cans.

threedogs

4th December 2012, 04:35 PM

the evil twin

4th December 2012, 05:43 PM

snip....

ET... are you suggesting that the regulator can accept an input @ 24v & give an output @ 12v. I didn't think this was possible but will happily bow to greater knowledge.

Cuppa

Hiya Cuppa,

Nah mate, that first part was me rambling a bit trying to illustrate that what counts is the current output and that 24 Volt panels supply 1/2 the current 12 Volt ones will. So trying to adapt them (24 to 12) is pointless to get the 160 watts for a 12 volt system from those panels he has. In retro it probably confused more than it explained so my bad.

I think we all agree the best idea is to sell/return the 24 Volt stuff (as is being attempted at the moment) as they are fine for any vehicle or reccy setup running 24 volts. Then use the $'s to get some 12 Volt panels to go with the Steca he has ordered. If the supplier exchanges the panels for 12 volt ones then even better as Mudski won't be out of pocket other than for the better MPPT Reg.

the evil twin

4th December 2012, 05:52 PM

This is the exact panels I bought : http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-GP-12v-Folding-Portable-Solar-Panel-Kit-Camping-Power-Generator-Home-Battery-/271078616212?pt=AU_Solar&hash=item3f1d8b6c94
I want to find out whether they are working properly or not before I try to flog them off as I really don't think they are working correctly.

Understood but strange as the charge light doesn't come on when I have everything connected and the panels basking in the in the sun.

I have tried connecting to many different batteries, even my aux battery which was at 12.4v.
If these are faulty which I suspect they are, I want to return them before the warranty runs out. I don't want to sell something that I'm not sure works. The first time I used them, last Easter weekend, 4 sunny days we had. I had the panels on the whole time and the whole time there the charge light never came on and I ended up with a flat battery. Putting it down to my inexperience I just thought my fridge, 32L Engel, was using more power than the panels could produce.

I did this and the best I could get was no higher than 3v. Yes, 3 Volts.

Hi mate,

I'm not sure where you measured the 3 volts (was it the battery terminals with the battery disconnected) but I'll take a punt on the following...

The charge light won't come on and the battery went flat because the regulator under voltage cutout is around 19 volts or so.

You could hook any amount of 12 volt batteries of varying state of charge to the reg when connected to the panels and it won't let the panels supply charging current because as soon as the panels supply power the Reg is looking for a 24 volt battery/load combination. 19 volts at the Battery terminals or below is considered a fault so the reg won't pass power

If you want to check if the gear is working prior to sale get two 12 volt batteries and connect them in series -ve of one to +ve of the second and then connect the reg across the 24 volts (the +ve of the first and -ve of the second).

Betcha 12 cans to 6 cans it works unless indeed the panels are faulty but the odds of 3 dodgy ones is a tad remote;)

the evil twin

4th December 2012, 05:59 PM

Just checked what you bought. 3 x 60 watt panels making 180 watt folding job. these are only putting 2.5 amps an hour back into your battery, 180 watts should be about 6 amps
just brought the wrong ones mate, read the stats, really only need an 80 watt panel that'll put 4.5 AH back into your battery. IMO

Not quite mate, he has 3 60's not a single 180.
As each panel is a 60 watter and they are paralleled that is 3 x 2.5ish so they will output a total of better than 6 amps as you say.

mudski

4th December 2012, 06:14 PM

the evil twin

4th December 2012, 07:21 PM

If the reg I have, CMP12 is rated for both 12 and 24v, which it is, going by the specs I found it should "auto switch" between 12 and 24v. Which it seems its not.
Plus the load light is on even when there is no load at all, just connected to a bare battery.

Mudski... the Reg is designed to switch automatically between 12 and 24 volt solar panels not Batteries. The battery has little to do with it once the panels are connected.

As mentioned prev the load light is "On" because the battery is capable of supplying the load.

Pls excuse the boldface in teh next bit, I did it to highlight what I think is happening from your description and not meaning to be at all insulting...

The "charge" light will illuminate only if there is sufficient solar input to run the load (if connected) AND something left over to charge the Battery OR there is no load just a 24 Volt battery bank and the panels are 'charging' itBUT the battery bank voltage MUST be over 19 odd Volts IF there are 24 Volt solar panels connected. Any battery voltage under 19 volts is considered a fault and the lo voltage cutout activates to prevent damage to equipment.

As Cupp said... a 24 volt solar system won't charge a 12 volt battery with that Reg you have.

A point to note here for everyone (and I see it occasionally) is that if you deplete your battery during the night or very cloudy weather below the Low Voltage Cutout setting of your Solar Reg you will need to temporarily jump another battery or partially charge the flat one with a Charger to fool the Solar into coming back on.

It happens often enough out bush that I get gifted the odd couple of cans every now and then getting peoples systems going again.

Disclaimer... it can be a tad difficult trying to fault find on the 'Net and there could indeed be faulty gear involved. The above is just my wild hairy rrsed best guess

mudski

4th December 2012, 08:08 PM

Mudski... the Reg is designed to switch automatically between 12 and 24 volt solar panels not Batteries. The battery has nothing to do with it once the panels are connected.
Ah so its the "input voltage" it will switch on. Not he "output voltage" So regardless of the reg thats on there, its setup for a 24v system. That reg can be used for 12v or 24v panels. I'm getting there.
http://www.jutasolar.com/en/product_more.asp?id=1185

As mentioned prev the load light is "On" because the battery is capable of supplying the load.
I thought it was there to say it was receiving or reading load, like a fridge, at the same time whilst charging...

Pls excuse the boldface in teh next bit, I did it to highlight what I think is happening from your description and not meaning to be at all insulting...
Takes a lot to insult me mate. I appreciate you being so patient with me on this. I know your head butting the desk a lot by now but I can see this turning into a big shit fight with the people who I bought it from. I just want to get all my facts right so I have a better chance of getting a refund, or, an exchange for the right ones.

I really do appreciate the help you, cuppa and everyone else has done so far. Before I bought these I really thought i had bough the right thing, I didn't go for the cheapest on there too. I did research, not that you can tell but as far as my knowledge would take me, and this is where I end up. With a sub $400 useless folding POS. Haven't told the missus yet. She's gonna shit a brick too.

the evil twin

4th December 2012, 08:24 PM

ROFL... yeah, scary things them missus's. Mine can freeze my brain and turn my legs to jelly from 30 feet away with one scornful look

mudski

4th December 2012, 08:41 PM

Mate, sorry to make you head but the desk again. I am just looking at the specs of this regulator.
High Voltage Disconnection - 13.7V -27.4V
Low Voltage Disconnection - 10.5V -21.0V
Low Voltage Reconnection - 12.6V -25.2V
I read this as it can do both 12v systems and 24v systems. I.e it will disconnect if it reads a low voltage of 10.5V for a 12volt system (one 12v battery) or disconnect at 21v for a 24v system (2 x 12v batteries or one 24v battery) Or am I reading this wrong?
I am so sorry to do this to you.

the evil twin

4th December 2012, 11:33 PM

Yes, your Reg will work on either a 12 Volt or a 24 Volt system but not a combination. Given the above figures for a 12 Volt panel connected to the Reg with a 12 Volt battery bank to Batt terminals and the load to the Load terminals my understanding would be...

High Voltage Disco - The reg will disconnect the panel output when/if the battery voltage reaches 13.7 volts. You will see this happen with a Voltmeter placed across the battery terminals if above 13.7 then the Panel terminals (on my own reg reads approx 18 volts) will be 4 or more volts higher.

Low Voltage Disco - The reg will disconnect the load from the battery if the Battery Voltage falls below 10.5. This is why some people hook the load (fridge and lights etc) to the battery bank and leave the load terminals vacant

Low Voltage Reconnect - The reg will reconnect the load after a LV disconnect when the voltage is above 12.6

Green LED will illuminate whenever the Solar Panel Voltage is above Battery Voltage

Red LED will illuminate whenever Battery Voltage is above low voltage disconnect

In a balanced system you should only very rarely see a Low Voltage Disconnect in unusual weather or useage. Recurring LV disco's essentially mean that the battery capacity is too low and being depleted overnight or that the Panel Output is too low to replenish the power consumed by the load.

Not all the above may be 100% kosher as different manuf's will use the same terminology but may slightly differ in how their regs handle the different conditions.

Either way if you try a combo you will either have a 24 Volt panel with the Reg thinking the Battery is too low a voltage IE below 21 Volts or a 12 Volt Battery with the Reg thinking the panel is too high as your panel OP is minimum 19 Volts or more

mudski

5th December 2012, 07:48 AM

Something just clicked in my head which is what was confusing me most. If I have 24v panels, this particular "multi voltage" reg will only charge a 24v system. If I have 12v panels, it will only charge a 12v system??? Please tell me I'm getting this right.

Cuppa

5th December 2012, 08:19 AM

High Voltage Disconnection - 13.7V -27.4V
Low Voltage Disconnection - 10.5V -21.0V
Low Voltage Reconnection - 12.6V -25.2V

I think ET has explained it well.
However those figures reveal why it makes sense to get a better regulator.
For example, in a 12v system, 13.7v is way too low for High Voltage Disconnect (HVD). 13.7v is only a float voltage for many batteries. 14.1v to 14.4v is common for the bulk charging stage of the charging cycle, & with temperature compensation can rise higher. The HVD setting on my Morningstar Tristar reg is adjustable to suit different battery types, & for my AGM's is set at 14.9v.

13.7v would eventually charge a 12v battery, but it would take an awful long time, far to long to make it practical in a 24 hour usage pattern such as when camping.

The 10.5v LVD figure is also ridiculously low. When a 12v battery gets that low it is already seriously flat & doing damage, severely reducing it's life expectancy. For better quality non adjustable regs the LVD is usually in the low 11’s, & adjustable ones allow for settings in the high 11’s or even the low 12’s.

For a reg to allow a 12v battery to drop to 10.5v & then not start to recharge it until 12.6v is an excellent reason not to use the load function of such a regulator as to do so turns an inefficient (13.7v HVD) battery charger into a battery 'murderer'.

This is why I have 2 or 3 of those regulators sitting unused here at home. Useful for keeping fully charged batteries topped up with a 'float' charge, but that is about it.

Cuppa

the evil twin

5th December 2012, 10:33 AM

threedogs

5th December 2012, 10:49 AM

He's right about the meds, been watching

mudski

5th December 2012, 02:46 PM

O.k great. Thanks everyone for their input. The mob whom I bought them from has respond with a RMA form and asked for a description of the fault. Basically I can say that I purchased a system for 12v as advertised, but have received a system with 24v panels supplied and regardless of the mutli voltage regulator it will not suit a 12v system, which is what I paid for?

mudski

18th December 2012, 08:17 PM

Now this is getting wierd. I have been real busy with work and blowing the clutch up in my troll I didn't have time to post the panels back. So i get home a little earlier today, the sun was out, 27c outside, not a cloud in the sky and I though to sit outside with a beer, and package up the panel. But then I thought to give it one more shot with a 4AH 12V battery. To my surprise the charge light came on for the very first time since I purchased them, and it was charging at around 17Volts! Whereas before the charge light never came on and the highest reading I could get was around 3V.
Plus, whilst off the battery I checked the voltage output with my DMM and it was reading around 27Volts.!!!
So this regulator thats on it must auto switch or something. I was under the impression that this system I had will not work at all on a 12V battery...
I'm so confused now.

before it wasn't working now it is...
And
The regulator I thought would only work with a 2 x 12V setup is working on a single 12V battery.

When I get back from holidays I'm gonna have to sit down and nut this out. Find out why it's now working, so then I am comfortable in selling it.
I have the Steca controller sitting on the shelf too...
:1087::1087::1087::1087:

Cuppa

29th March 2013, 10:23 AM

http://www.exploroz.com/Vehicle/Electrics/Solar.aspx

I'll add this link here as I expect that it may be useful for anyone contemplating getting solar.

Disclaimer: It is written by a friend of mine, Collyn Rivers. He can be a cantakerous old so & so & I have disagreed on many things with him over the years, but when it comes to getting good information about fitting solar in easy to understand language he is the man.
When I first purchased one of his books, before I had met him, I was disappointed with how thin it seemed ( read the whole thing in a couple of hours), BUT as I went about my first solar installation (from a position of knowing nothing) I found I kept returning to it, & that it had ALL the info I needed. His skill is in being able to understand complexity & to then communicate this in a simplified manner acessible to all. For anyone considering outlaying good money on solar it is my belief that first buying one of his books is a good investment that will save you money & ensure that you end up with what you actually want. If nothing else it helps the buyer sort out the realities from the common myths that abound with solar, (& that all too often many sellers & armchair experts are willing to repeat).

Cuppa

hempo

25th July 2013, 08:58 PM

mudski, what was the outcome?

Robo

22nd December 2013, 01:48 AM

If this helps, last summer I borrowed out laws Engel fridge and solar panel for a week+ away.
think 1.3 to 2.5amp power is the power figures for these Engels.

Took my 100amp-hr agm apollo battery 6 yrs old out of my car.
Connected to 40ltr engel fridge/freezer & set for fridge use only (but very cold), as we were far from town.
No other strain was placed on battery eg led lights etc.
Last night there, removed jaycar solar 120w fold panel at 5pm and packed it away going home next day.
The battery ran panel over night 5pm to 3pm next arvo, = 22hrs straight.
Put battery on charger when I got home that night still 80% charged.
Translates to approx 50% of acceptable drain in 22hrs use.

This yr I have a complete new setup of our own.
no more borrowing. Ha.
150w ebay panel,
150 amphr apollo agm deep cycle.
Ctek 20amp dc/dc mppt reg/charger (max input 300w ) fitted in van, connects via anderson at rear bumper.
And the wife's chrissy wish, a 50th anv Engel f/freezer, will be set as freezer only I think.
same fridge as before only much better controls and a gold paint job.
Van has 2 way fridge, gas /240v so will be used as fridge only.
This time will also be running a 5m led strip on van under awning, and interior leds.
oh also "backup only I hope" a 3000w continuous load pure sine gen.
As far as "noise" goes, I compare it to the 2000w eui honda at work.
Ebay gen $609 delivered verses honda $3900, easy choice for me.
See how we go.
PS gen also serves as power in blackout at home hence the size.
sorry for the hijack but
Maybe someone can confirm a 12v/240v inverter drain on 12 volt system power supply.
I read some where appliance watts x 10 equivalent on battery drain.
Eg-- 10amp appliance @240v = 100amp @ 12volts.
and how going large power inverter is waste on low drain appliance.
help out us free campers.

cheers.
And Merry Christmas Everyone.

sooty_10

22nd December 2013, 09:20 AM

FNQGU

23rd December 2013, 03:19 PM

He certainly is easy to understand. I now have his camper trailer book and it is a real goldmine of info.

mudski

24th December 2013, 01:05 AM

Robo

26th December 2013, 11:16 PM

Great article to read. The only thing I don't really agree on, but see where he's coming from is his comment about adding and extra battery. He says its a waste of money and that money should be spent in more panels. All good to say that if you know your going to have plenty of sunlight to make use of. If you experience three or four days of clouds and no sun, like many would have, the extra panels is useless and your foobar. Ideally having more of both is great but I would lean to an extra battery and have both well charged before I leave and also run the panels. Even though the panels won't be enough to charge both batteries, it will slow the discharge process I would think.
He also says "The maximum battery capacity must never exceed that which you can readily fully charge most days. Ideally have about 250 watts of solar per 100 Ah battery capacity."
I assume that would count nearly every camper out if they had two batteries. Well me anyway, I have 180W and one 100AH AGM in the camper, and looking into another. Seems I need to look into more panels...

I'm no expert and not preaching I'm learning here also.
I think he's allowing for any drain on solar input also whilst charging "something running" through the day.
the 120w panel I used regulator was pwm and the small drain was 50% allowable ( ideal ) drain in 22 hrs, if we had bad sunlight the previous day the batteies capacity would of suffered, and that's was for a small load requirement.
chewing it over I think he's on the money for what the "efficient" Engel drained last outing.
Tink he's also allowing for no over-discharge of battery capacity max drain 40% with 60% still in reserve, otherwise battery performance and longevity is at risk.
Humm, after reading artical I think I may need another panel to protect/prolong expensive agm bat.
Cheers,
And Merry Chrissy and Happy New Year Peoples.

Robo

22nd January 2014, 01:27 AM

update.
with mostly hot sunny days.
The 150 watt ebay panel kept the 150 amp-hr agm battery charged ok.
With 40 ltr Engel running at neg 9 deg no problem for 9 days straight.
solar Panel was put out around 10 am facing east and moved west after lunch & no other movement.
Few days panel only saw 5hrs light, sight seeing 4x4 etc
Tried a day, 24hrs use and not connecting the panel to test capacity drain on battery, geny & connecting 240v smart charger battery was down to 73% capacity.
this is around the desired max drain limit, to ensure battery longevity.
Engel was freezing milk and meat well, but as expected slower than home fridge.
I found if I went below -11 freezer was running to frequently.
-9 nice medium of run time for 35deg +days.
neg 6 wasn't freezing really to well "to slow to freeze" +35 ambient wasn't' helping.
didn't' really use led lights much out side or inside for that matter, recon if more use a 2nd panel was on the cards.

A Good Christmas and New year.
Hope you had the same.

threedogs

22nd January 2014, 06:47 AM

Robo

23rd January 2014, 02:04 AM

where is the Engel if in the Patrol? I would suggest either parking in the shade and running a lead to your Panel,
or darken the cargo area with either that silver foil sheet, or black perforated stick on.
Out of interest how many AH does the 150 panel produce on a sunny day.
You may have been better with two 80 Watt panels, I'll wait
Edit its 8.5 AH ,You might get 9AH running a twin 80 panel marginal

Thanks for the input.
engel sat under vans annex in the shade, in its genuine transport cover.
it was that humid/warm condensation was forming under the cover.
did take it with us a few times, mav's cargo area is well shaded, and aircon was running.
settled on larger 150w single panel as dc/dc reg max's out at 300w.
so 2x 150w panels suit nicely if 2nd is required.
otherwise 3x100w getting bulky etc, did consider smaller but that falls short etc so I thought.
this reg can be upgraded to 80 amps charging for over 400ah and then max out 800ah.
I'm very new at solar, so hope I'm getting it right hate wasten time and $$.
my only regret so far is reg has no status gauge, bat level ah etc, but is mppt.
may have to get a monitor of sorts later down the track.
or put dc/dc reg in car for dual bats, and a different reg in van.
will see.
Boss wants larger van, and looking at weights I may have to step up to GU towing capacitys.
GQ Hayman bar 120 kg ball weight falls short on vans we have looked at so far.
I've spent a small ship load of time/money on GQ mav and now short capacity wise.
any improvements are on hold till I sort vehicles now.
always something.
cheers

BigRAWesty

23rd January 2014, 06:22 AM

120kg sounds very low.
Are you sure that's not the rating when the car is at max gvm??

threedogs

23rd January 2014, 07:25 AM

I've seen that a lot here where ppl buy a Van that Max's out their GVM
only looking for trouble Imo, Try and leave a bit of lee way to play with,
Other wise your at MAX every time you hitch up, but no doubt you have done the figures

gaddy

23rd January 2014, 08:28 AM

Thanks for the input.
engel sat under vans annex in the shade, in its genuine transport cover.
it was that humid/warm condensation was forming under the cover.
cheers

I'm going ti throw the cat amongst the pigeons , when I got my fridge years ago a old time fridge mechanic gave me some advice , don't use a cover in hot conditions , as the fridge produces heat through the sides that cannot be disapaited if a cover is over it , feel the side of your home fridge on a hot day , makes a lot of sense when you think about it , just my 2 cents

Steve

mudski

23rd January 2014, 09:16 AM

Yeah there is actually a name for that too. But can't remember what its called. But I do believe the Engels work differently though.
I have a cover on my 75l combi with cover and when we used it before Christmas we had a few 35c days and I found even laying a folded tarp over the top the Engel it ran a couple of degrees cooler.

gaddy

23rd January 2014, 10:05 AM

I have a engal, give it a try it might surprise you, would you wear a jumper on hot day?

mudski

23rd January 2014, 10:44 PM

Yeah I will try it for sure. As you will know if there is a change as the temps will alter pretty quick.

Robo

24th January 2014, 12:57 AM

I'm going ti throw the cat amongst the pigeons , when I got my fridge years ago a old time fridge mechanic gave me some advice , don't use a cover in hot conditions , as the fridge produces heat through the sides that cannot be disapaited if a cover is over it , feel the side of your home fridge on a hot day , makes a lot of sense when you think about it , just my 2 cents

Steve
humm
sounds ok !.
condensation from warm air is forming externally on the cold surfaces.
so the outside of the engel must be cold to cause moisture to form on it.
only prob there is rust might form.
If it were hot externally as I think your trying to point out,
water would not be there, water would evaporate away wouldn't it.
Reading in a van mag the other day.
to help your fridge work less and better you can install a trap or similar like an awning on the out side of van to cool external wall where fridge is located against.
however your mechanic is correct about not covering the hot parts.
this engel has vents for the hot bits, it even has an inbuilt fan assist to cool the comp and evaporator.
I see your point and agree don't cover the hot bits.

Robo

24th January 2014, 01:05 AM

120kg sounds very low.
Are you sure that's not the rating when the car is at max gvm??

yep 93 mavs hayman bar,
2500kg foe and arft weights,
& downward ball weight 120kg max.
and if ya use extended tongues that figure falls lower.

outlaws 93 troopy gen bar is 110kg, full leaf suspension and all, go figure that out.
"Sorry for the hijack"

gaddy

24th January 2014, 11:11 AM

Yeah I know it sounds all wrong , I have the first model to come out with the fan and on a hot day the sides still get warm , and had a travel cover as well , found when it was in the back of the ute we had in the sun it ran better without the cover , although ended up looking like this 39635
I also use it in the boat , as a bit of an experiment one trip without the travel cover I switched over to 1 battery to see how long it would take before I could not start without switching to second battery and not useing any other charging sorce then the outboard adout 25 amps and only for about half hour a day I was using 960 cca calcium battery I have no led lights on the boat kids using dvd player . Charging phones and running my electrinics , 6 days before I ran out of umph to start . The fridge was only opened a few times a day and only had food no drinks , when in the boat it is in the sun a lot as well . 13 years old now and still runs like a dream
This ijust my own experience and works for me

I also have a jayco with 3 way fridge freezer I put a hinge on the top vent near the chimney on the fridge , 2 seconds to open up and fridge runs brilliantly

Robo

24th January 2014, 06:09 PM

Never touched it where it was wet under transport cover.
I assume it's cold as water simply doesn't form on a warm surface.
Guess I'll have to run a test to see what's what.
And yes these fridges are very efficient, perfect for solar.
This was one reason I chose engel.
The other motor design less moving parts and proven track record.

FNQGU

23rd January 2016, 07:23 PM

Is anyone using or had experience with the Redarc BCDC 1225 with solar? I was just looking at these units when I read on another forum that these tend to prefer Redarc solar panels and sometimes have difficulty charging with other than Redarc solar panels.

This seems really odd to me, so thought I'd check to see if anyone here might use one and or whether anyone might have heard of this issue?

Hodge

23rd January 2016, 08:20 PM

Very interesting FNQGU. I have the BCDC1225, currently setup as a normal dual battery controller, no solar.
But I am looking at adding portable solar setup, utilizing the Redarc unit. I would love to hear if anybody else here knows about this.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=64228&stc=1

FNQGU

23rd January 2016, 08:29 PM

It doesn't sound right to me. How would it know what type of panel is providing the feed? It's not like solar panels have chips in them.

the evil twin

23rd January 2016, 11:44 PM

... it's Redarc trying to pump their own panels

threedogs

24th January 2016, 11:47 AM

@ Eric that 50 amp anderson plug at the front of my Patrol
is for solar to my AUX battery, ,,,,,,or just to plug in a light
if another is required at camp, It also plugs into a watt meter
as well

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Digital-LCD-Watt-Meter-Battery-Balance-Ammeter-Amp-Analyzer-60V-100A-DC-RC-Volt-/171874051824?hash=item28047de6f0:g:K-0AAOSwLVZVuJGt

mudski

25th January 2016, 10:36 PM

I use the 1225 in my camper. Its wired in for car charging and solar. I just returned home today from a two week camping stint using two non Redarc branded panels with zero issues.

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

FNQGU

25th June 2016, 04:06 PM

I was just advised by an Auto electrician that solar panels should not ever be disconnected (eg. Anderson Plug to vehicle BMS) while they are still producing current.

Has anyone else heard this?

The reason I ask is that I am looking at being able to re-direct solar input from the Redarc BMS that manages the rear mounted main Aux battery, to a BCDC1225 under the bonnet that handles a front mounted Aux battery. I had it in mind that I could just disconnect the Anderson Plug from the panels to the vehicle, and plug it back into a second Anderson plug that feeds the front charger but am advised I would need to cover the panels or turn them over or something and then make the switch.

Alternatively, although possibly over-complicating things, could I wire in a switch to make the change instantaneous?

the evil twin

25th June 2016, 04:20 PM

Connected or disconnected?

Well, either way I s'pose, Yes, that is 'technically' correct, sorta...

Connecting...
Not a great practice but most people don't give a rats rrse.
The Panel will be at Vmax until it is connected so will have 20 volts or so at the terminals (or a bloody sight more if it is a 24 or 32 Volt panel)
Sooo... 'technically' you could spike something.
Normally, the safety factor is the battery which is a huge capacitor so damps any spikes BUT there can be circumstances were the spike may get into the vehicle electrics

Disconnecting...
Would be like a 1 in 1,000 issue but could get a spike as the BMS changes over or if the disconnect isn't clean.
I would be more concerned about connecting myself

Bottom line is it has pretty much the same risks as connecting/disconnecting batteries, jump starting or connecting accessories that may have residual power (capacitors)

the evil twin

25th June 2016, 04:26 PM

... should have added;

The 100% ideal is to;
1. Always connect the battery to the BMS or Reg before the connecting the panel (this IS a bloody good thing to do)
2. Cover or face the panel away from the Sun and connect to Reg/BMS and then remove cover or orientate panel
Disconnection should be in the reverse

Real world #2 is often ignored and will only usually cause a problem if there is already another issue as well

jay see

13th February 2022, 01:17 PM

Question for the knowledgeable.

I'm using a double Anderson from the aux battery to 1. Power the fridge in the back and 2. Adding a folding solar panel when needed. Is there any issues in doing this.

Sent from my CPH1921 using Tapatalk

Cuppa

13th February 2022, 09:03 PM

If I have understood correctly - you currently have aux under the bonnet connected to the crank batt via VSR or dc to dc charger? Cable to Anderson plug to power the fridge.

And you just want to use another anderson to connect the portable solar panel direct to the aux battery when you pull up at camp.?

If so I don't see a problem.

Main consideration is that you have sufficiently heavy cable to minimise voltage drop from aux battery to fridge. (Most fridge problems are caused by cable being too thin). More important with the solar than with alternator charging. With fridge running measure voltage across terminals of aux battery. Then measure voltage at fridge. If Voltage at fridge is say, more than 3% less at the fridge then the cabling between them needs upgrading. eg. 12.8v at battery & 12.45 at fridge with the fridge running is as marginal as you would want to go.

Just another thing - most folding panels come with a regulator attached to the rear of a panel. Not ideal. Better close to the battery. It makes a difference. And usually the cables supplied with panels is too light. Address these two issues & you will get more out of your panel into the battery, rather than lost in the cable.

jay see

14th February 2022, 12:49 AM

I have my aux battery behind the rear seat and a double Anderson coming off that. I'm using a redarc sbi12d (dual sensing isolator). I have recently mounted a fixed 110w panel which has a mppt regulator mounted to the board, close to the battery. If I plug in my folding panel for an extended stay I should be good??
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220213/f03fd63c6829632f9475f68f1e90ae4f.jpg

Sent from my CPH1921 using Tapatalk

Cuppa

14th February 2022, 01:44 PM

Might not be a good idea to use two different solar regulators. Better to have a single regulator on the board close to the battery. If the one you have there at psent doesn't have enough current capacity to use with both solar panels I think you should upgrade it.

It won't do any harm to try with two regulators but I have heard stories of folk doing this & wondering why the additional panel is not making any difference, only to discover that one was reading the output of the other & 'thought' the battery was charged. I haven't tried it myself & results may vary with different regulators, but as a general rule I'd say 2 'competing' regs is not the way to go.

If down the track you need to do any fault finding, a single reg will make that easier than with two.

A Redarc SBi12D is a VSR (Voltage Sensing relay). Basically a means of ensuring you don't accidentally flatten your crank battery when running your fridge when not driving. the D version also allows the solar power to charge the crank battery when the aux battery is fully, (or close to fully) charged. You may already know that, but I've added it because some mistakenly think that a VSR is a charger.