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taslucas
10th November 2012, 02:37 PM
Ive been having a bad run with a pertronix ignition kit so ive been playing around with the dissy a bit lately. Ive noticed a couple of things that im unsure about.

Second Picture:
My plastic cover is on the right. My mates spare cover is on the left. I noticed that the little metal tabs sticking out the top are a lot longer on my mates cover. I cant see how they would wear down with use? It looks like my metal tabs have been filed down on purpose? Which brings me to
First Picture:
Is this one of those extended rotor buttons? My mates rotor button does not have the extended brass bit on top. Could the above mentioned metal tabs have been filed down to accomodate the after market rotor button?

taslucas
10th November 2012, 02:43 PM
Ok here is the pic of the dissy cover thing

Robo
11th November 2012, 12:19 AM
Yes the rotor has been extended.
From memory the tabs are below the level the rotor tip runs,
so not to worry about contact there.
Hummmm
No thats wrong, good ? what are they for
cheers

taslucas
11th November 2012, 12:04 PM
Cool cheers i thought it may have been the extended rotor.

Still wondering why my mates plastic cover has longer tabs than mine? It looks like the tabs on mine have been filed down on purpose. I thought it might have been so that the aftermarket rotor button would clear them, but it clears the longer tabs anyway???

My plastic cover thing has a slight crack in it so i would like to use my mates spare but im not sure if those tabs have been filed down for a reason?

Robo
11th November 2012, 12:21 PM
Any carbon dust getting in that crack could cause elec tracking to the earth.

taslucas
11th November 2012, 12:40 PM
Yeah its definately worth replacing. Just not sure about the length of those tabs on the spare cover

taslucas
12th November 2012, 07:50 AM
BUMP
Still wondering about the length of these tabs (with the pen pointing to it).

My cover is on the right with what looks like filed down tabs. I want to use the cover on the left (with longer tabs) just wondering if the length of those tabs matters?

http://i1249.photobucket.com/albums/hh519/taslucas1/DSC_0088-1.jpg

taslucas
12th November 2012, 12:10 PM
Bump again lol.
Anyone got any ideas at all about the length of those tabs?

Tap, crackle, pop

lorrieandjas
12th November 2012, 12:24 PM
Hi taslucas - is it possible to use your mates cover and rotor to isolate the issue you are having? If that sorts the problem then a new cover and get rid of that after-market rotor? I know this doesn't answer your question of why those metal bits appear to be filed down - and I couldn't find anything similar to that in what I've read.........

taslucas
12th November 2012, 01:03 PM
Thanks for the reply. I have just sent the faulty ignition module back so I'll wait till I get the new module then see if all my problems are fixed.

Tap, crackle, pop

Robo
14th November 2012, 02:23 AM
The extended rotor shouldn't hit the tabs, if that's what your wondering.
That said when I first got Mav I did the usual stuff replaced cap, extended rotor plugs leads etc.
New extended rotor was clipping the contacts inside the dissy cap and I had to file some off the ext rotor off.
What I did notice was a drop in power with the ext rotor.
yes it was a little smother, but power fell away.
theory--- rotor gap adds resistance and coil generates more power to jump gap and this gives more bang,so to speak.

see what you think!!.
some feed back, when you get her up and running.

taslucas
14th November 2012, 07:54 AM
Thats interesting. I have also heard that about the extended rotors. I drove the vehicle for over a year with old plugs, old leads, and the extended rotor (unkown to me).
I decided to upgrade to the pertronix kit and it unfortunately it looks like i got a faulty module (its on its way back now). Also got the flamethrower coil (45,000 volts). I wonder if there will be any benifit in going back to a regular rotor? Or if the higher voltage coil would compensate for the extended rotor?

Robo
14th November 2012, 01:39 PM
" Quote "
Or if the higher voltage coil would compensate for the extended rotor?

Yeah I wonder same bizz.

I read you removed ballast as per instructions for pertronic II.
Is that correct for pert II upgrade over pert I ?.

taslucas
14th November 2012, 03:54 PM
Yeah removing the ballast is only to do with having the aftermarket coil not necessary if only installing the pertronix and keeping the original coil.

Tap, crackle, pop

Robo
15th November 2012, 01:26 AM
Yeah removing the ballast is only to do with having the aftermarket coil not necessary if only installing the pertronix and keeping the original coil.

Tap, crackle, pop

I'm with ya. all good.

Robo
3rd December 2012, 01:48 AM
HHmmm, theory.
those tabs are a way of suppressing power.
help preventing burnt points.
secondary system to the ballast resister.
I just cut mine off and sealed with smear of silicon.
Have pertronic so points aren't a problem
Will see what happens, or I'm going to the wreckers.

this mod trying to remedy , thread
After fuelling "LPG" engine has a splutter.

Robo
13th December 2012, 01:35 PM
Well its 10 days and Mav runs fine.
tabs removed and no pertronic just points.
the tabs did have a slight burn marks so were taking some energy to ground.
I say some energy as they were only marked halfway across their breadth.
Hummm, which cylinders were the tabs beside?

taslucas
13th December 2012, 02:58 PM
Yeah cool. So you reckon I should remove the tabs too?
I asked an auto elec and he said it was hard to say what they were for without seeing it as a whole system (I only had the bit with the tabs on). But also said that if nothin was hitting on the tabs then they would be ok to leave long.
But I'm interested in your experiment now. Is there a way of finding out if the plugs are getting more/better spark before and after the tabs were cut down?
I'm yet to get my replacement pertronix so I haven't driven her in a while.

Tap, crackle, pop

Robo
14th December 2012, 03:54 AM
I'm beginning to think the tabs are there to draw some energy away from particular cylinders.
either 1 and 6 or 3 and 4.
Need to look at position the tabs to confirm which cyls.
might be a heat related issue, certain cyls getting to hot maybe?.

Mav certainly not going worse at all power wise.
No pinging either.
Fires up ok

After I removed the tabs, I did look at plugs a few day later and they were in good condition.
but time will tell for plugs visually, bit early yet.
Iridium plugs, std heat range of 5.
Hummmm, not sure about measuring the energy going to plugs, 40 thou+ volts, nar leaving that one alone.

Robo
14th December 2012, 11:40 AM
I remember a post some where not liking Champion dizzy cap.
I can understand not using champ plugs, not worth the weight in feathers.
but a cap is a problem ! ,it's a fairly basic thing, any thoughts on cap?.

taslucas
14th December 2012, 01:12 PM
I've still got original dissy cap.

Tap, crackle, pop