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View Full Version : different way to mount sliders?



BLKWDW
5th November 2012, 09:42 AM
Hey all im making a set of sliders my patrol and was going to mount them the typical way with U shaped brackets that go over the chassis the have 2 bolts in at the top. After speaking to a bloke at my local exhaust shop who done my suspension he suggest a different method of mounting them when i told him i needed the U brackets made.

He wants to make a couple of mounts in a c shape and weld them to the chassis with captive nuts in behind and bolt the sliders to them. He reckons there a stronger design. I know all the fuss about welding to the chassis but thats how he has done his and being a qualified body builder he should know right? He also suggests that alot of comps guys mount them the same way. He did tell me how he was gona weld it on with wet rags and tricky stages of welding to not damage the chassis.

So my question is has anyone else mounted there like this?

nissannewby
5th November 2012, 11:50 AM
Yeah mine are welded like that on my GQ ute excepts its had 12mm plate with threaded holes welded to the chassis then the slider bolts to that. I have given mine some greif and are yet to bend them. I would do the threaded plate thing before using captive nuts cos if they seize up and the nut spins it could be fun to get out unless he's using weld nuts.

MudRunnerTD
5th November 2012, 12:03 PM
If you are happy to weld to the Chassis rail then dont bother with the C channel.

work out the size of your mounting plates. same height at the chassis rail and probably square would work.

Say that is 130mm by 130mm? 3 mounts down each side, and have your squares cut.

1 for the chassis 12mm thick and 10mm thick for the slider feet.

clamp a pair together and drill the 4 holes 4 corners of each mount) through both pieces to suit 10mm Hi tensile bolts

Over size drill the slider foot to allow for thread clearance.

Tap the chassis plates to suit the bolts. Buy bolts that are the exact length of the 2 plates together.

Make your sliders and weld the foot to the sliders in the right spot and length with the Chassis plates bolted up to the feet. Hold the slider up and tack weld into position.

Unbolt the sliders from the chassis mounts and remove out of your way.

Get welding! Flat plate weld all 4 sides flat onto the chassis rail. Gal Paint when finished.

threedogs
5th November 2012, 12:39 PM
I made 6x 12mm plates with 4 x12mm holes drilled and tapped in each corner, very strong one side was and air tank the other was a water tank.
fiddly to make to make all one cavity, but worked a treat, not sure what issue of 4wd monthly but one picture had hi lift lifting both wheels off the ground via the steps.
and if need be just un bolt and leave off , the were more for rugged expedition style rigs not sliders a they basically all look the same now. Was very happy with the outcome
Try not to put too much heat in the chassis when welding them on, like all things take your time, have straight edges and string lines at the ready

BLKWDW
5th November 2012, 01:03 PM
I am not doing the welding a mate is who welds for a living making exhaust but also do alot of custom fabrication stuff. Being a qualified body builder and welder i'm assuming he know what he's doing. He wasnt using c channel. He was making up his own plates using 10mm steel and the nuts are to be welded on from behind.

MudRunnerTD
5th November 2012, 01:12 PM
I am not doing the welding a mate is who welds for a living making exhaust but also do alot of custom fabrication stuff. Being a qualified body builder and welder i'm assuming he know what he's doing. He wasnt using c channel. He was making up his own plates using 10mm steel and the nuts are to be welded on from behind.

Simply No Need to stuff around trying to weld captured nuts and then allowing a Flex Zone because the plate is not hard down on the chassis rail.

12mm Flat plate drilled and threaded is the way to go mate, weld straight to the side of the rail.

threedogs
5th November 2012, 01:26 PM
Or just weld a slider only no step, they look great if done right, basically some 60 mm by 25 mm x4mm rhs directly onder the sill looks great works a treat cheaper that set of sliders that'll get hungup antway, this way just one pice od steel to slide full length, Once you have one of these you'll never go back to steps and thats basically what they are. Steps on an angle not a dedicated slider, think about it.???You only want to protect the sill dont you,???
This is what I'd do, who uses step anyway,???

89gqpatrol4x4
5th November 2012, 06:57 PM
I built my own sliders using 50mm internal diameter 3mm wall stell tube and have them set as a step and slider as i think if they sit out a little further they will also help protect the body panels aswell as the sills, because your genareally on a angle when hung up not sitting level. I have also made a u bracket set up and bolted mine on. They have copped a bit of abuse as I only have standard suspension and have not bent or moved at all. I don't use it as as step but the missus does.

threedogs
5th November 2012, 07:11 PM
hi mate you anything to do with black widow 4x4 access ???

pominozjohn
5th February 2014, 07:17 PM
I am having trouble mounting the passenger side slider. A bracket and rubber mount for the exhaust is mounted just in front of the silencer, exactly where the u bracket goes. How critical is the mount?:

GQ TANK
5th February 2014, 08:49 PM
When I put my slider on, I relocated the bracket to the u-shape slider bracket

I cheated by buying prebet slider brackets off ebay - but they where 10 mm to short.


My set up is similar to 3 dogs recommendation -