Rust proofing

[stano]

Hi, I have just changed over from a 2004 4.2 st ute to a 2004 dx 4.2 wagon. I have big plans for it to be a tourer but at the top of the list is rust proofing. Just after a few opinions about the different options available for rust proofing (apart from the obvious regular cleaning required).

[04OFF]

Ok, my opinion only...

Forget about electronic, get only rust proofing stuff that will dry firm enough so everything (sand etc) wont stick to it, ask "exactly where and what" will get coated.

To be honest, i would buy a gun and a tub of rust proof and do it yourself, from what ive seen over the years, its very common for most mobs to do a half assed job, only spray where you will see, and is easy for them to get to etc, e.g. they will spray over "alloy" engine parts that are easy to see, but neglect metal seams in the engine bay (fail)

On the GU patrol wagon, the sills are the primary key rust areas, you need to remove inside plastic panels as well as the modules in behind the kick panels, then remove the foam chunks that sit in all the cavity/s, this way you can get in to rust proof the sills properly all the way along (i doubt any rust proofer will ever do this)

Next is inside the lower section of the front gaurds, you need to remove the inner gaurd plastic, and/ or the plastic trim between the sill and the gaurd (as seen with door open), really id want to undo the very lower gaurd bolts, and coat in between the sill and the gaurd where they sit together, this area also likes to rust.


To do the doors you need to remove the door trims to do it right, key factors are dont block drain holes with rust proofing, same for any roof/pillar cavity/s


The Battery tray is best treated with POR15, under the floor pan i would go stone gaurd, its tough, black, and does not attract dirt/sand.


Really, rust proofing, is just a poor substitute for decent paint, if everything is painted well, you dont need rust proofing, so all the cavities you could coat with quality paint or stonegaurd instead, i did the paint then the rustproof , but i like the beach :biggrin:

[04OFF]

Oh, and if you can, pop over to the intro section , introduce yourself and say hello please mate :wink:

[stano]

Thanks 040FF. Any particular brand of rust proof you prefer?

[Wine_maker]

We have new fashion of useful tuning using by RAPTOR

http://www.ebay.com/itm/U-Pol-Raptor-Clear-Tintable-Truck-Bed-Liner-Kit-ME-821-/270766387118?forcev4exp=true&forceRpt=true

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2012/11/6.jpg


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X3UI2LzZvG0

[threedogs]

Any type of LANOLIN TYPE spray is also effective, ans X 2 on the POR15 a great product.
some people even put sound proof batts in the cavities to make things quieter. but as suggested
it needs to be runny to get into nooks and crannys.. The above Rhino style spray looks good too.

[my third 256]

ive got electronic rust proofins and also under body
pays to be safe even if others dont like electnics
but every little helps my opinion
also depends on what you do with your 4x4 salt water driving or just mud or dirt tracks

[gaddy]

ive just done the whole process of electronic vrs spray , do a lot of research and draw your own conclusion , i personally went for the spray , but i spend a good day just cleaning the underbody after been on the beach either for a day or 4 weeks , same amount of cleaning , we live by the water and the car is at boat ramps most weekends , had the last 4wd for ten years ,rust free . keep the polish on and keep clean , same after been in the mud it sill holds moisture and that means rust .

[04OFF]

Thanks 040FF. Any particular brand of rust proof you prefer?

Well i used Tectyl 506, really only because ive used it before (not because i have evidence its better or anything like that) i like it because it does not remain all sticky once dry.


All the other spray on products mentioned are also good in my book, its not rocket science, all you are doing is creating a barrier to keep the elements off the metal, on 100% sealed/painted metal, it will be rare to ever see any rusting, can't say the same for ERP sytems ive encountered over the years (including the one on my patrol) :biggrin:

[Wine_maker]

I use UNIСOR that contains Phosphoric acid that transform rust in to prime coat.

[threedogs]

If I had the time I would do the same as Wine Maker. looks neat, probable chip proof as well. does it also act as a sound deadener??
going to be putting some batts in my side panel soon once mobility improves, but 2 thumbs up wine maker I like whay you've done

[Wine_maker]

Thanks mate!
No, it doesn't provide soundproofing. The layer is very thin.
It is water based paint. Corrosion layer must be thinner than 10 micro meters. In any case it is enough for old car to extend lifetime.
We use it to paint high capacity industrial hot water boilers.

Somewhere on forum i saw very interesting AU made rust stop paint based on fish fat.

[Wine_maker]

When I was in business trip on exhibition in Siberia I saw very interesting rust removal liquid named LAVR which made
this
http://lavr.ru/ud/tests/rust2/1.jpg
http://lavr.ru/ud/tests/rust2/10.jpg
to this
http://lavr.ru/ud/tests/rust2/34.jpg
http://lavr.ru/ud/tests/rust2/26.jpg
after a few layers of liquid and a little brush works.

Last year I used LAVR for nozzle cleaning.

[Waza]

Ok, my opinion only...

Forget about electronic, get only rust proofing stuff that will dry firm enough so everything (sand etc) wont stick to it, ask "exactly where and what" will get coated.

To be honest, i would buy a gun and a tub of rust proof and do it yourself, from what ive seen over the years, its very common for most mobs to do a half assed job, only spray where you will see, and is easy for them to get to etc, e.g. they will spray over "alloy" engine parts that are easy to see, but neglect metal seams in the engine bay (fail)

On the GU patrol wagon, the sills are the primary key rust areas, you need to remove inside plastic panels as well as the modules in behind the kick panels, then remove the foam chunks that sit in all the cavity/s, this way you can get in to rust proof the sills properly all the way along (i doubt any rust proofer will ever do this)

Next is inside the lower section of the front gaurds, you need to remove the inner gaurd plastic, and/ or the plastic trim between the sill and the gaurd (as seen with door open), really id want to undo the very lower gaurd bolts, and coat in between the sill and the gaurd where they sit together, this area also likes to rust.


To do the doors you need to remove the door trims to do it right, key factors are dont block drain holes with rust proofing, same for any roof/pillar cavity/s


The Battery tray is best treated with POR15, under the floor pan i would go stone gaurd, its tough, black, and does not attract dirt/sand.


Really, rust proofing, is just a poor substitute for decent paint, if everything is painted well, you dont need rust proofing, so all the cavities you could coat with quality paint or stonegaurd instead, i did the paint then the rustproof , but i like the beach :biggrin:

I have proofed over 500 cars as a young lad for a Toyota dealer using Fortron & Wynns similar to the above work description except we would drill a 1/2" hole to gain access to seams etc more easily & use a lance to apply the upper treatment. It's very easy to miss a patch underneath & having a mate check your work is a big help. Remember to thin Wynns Bottom proofing with white spirits for spraying. Nb bottom proofing is awkward on a car hoist so applying it to a car sitting on jack stands will send you to a chiropractor ! But if you want it done right do it yourself ;-)

[lorrieandjas]

Personally used e-rust systems and for me they've worked. Or maybe I've just had good paint? :)

Jas

[bajones]

I've used CouplerTec and spray for under-body on the GU, and some corrosion that was showing on a few bolts when I brought it hasn't gotten any worse after 2 and half years.
Give the car a good wash-down after every trip on the sand, and no issues.

But each have their own opinion and go with what they are comfortable with.

Either way you go, hope it works out for you.

[Stropp]

I will post some pics tomorrow as mine is currently in getting underbody rustproofing, I do have a couple of prior pics so will post up both.

[Stropp]

pics before and after, this was a dept of fisheries car so not looked after at all.

[Stropp]

more photos of the rustproofing