Courtesy light delay kit

[ckh]

I picked up a kit from Jaycar the other day for making the interior lights stay on for awhile after you shut the door, then it fades out or goes out when you turn the headligts on. All good except when I shut the doors the lights went out straight a way, after doing some googling found that because I'm running LED's the isnt enought resistance in the circuit to make the timer in the unit work.. I put a regular globe in the rear interior light and the system now works fine. but I prefer the LED's. I read some where I needed to out a 10w 10 ohm resistor in the circuit to compensate for the normal bulb, tried that and it worked fine until the resistor got that hot it started smoking then blew the fuse, found out its the same fuse that runs power to the clock and radio when everything is turned off.... some have suggested "to fit an ordinary globe in under your dash in parallel with your LED's, preferably one on the passengers side, one on the drivers side, to illuminate the floor, and to provide enough current to operate the circuit. but I dont have the wiring diagrams for my 89 GQ, and help or suggestions greatly accepted, as right now with the normal globe in the rear light with leds running in parallel it looks stupid, nice bright leds, with a yellow glow alone side of it...

[damaverick]

Sounds like you've gone through a lot of trouble. Why not just use the manual switch next to the light when you need to turn it on/off?

[mudski]

I see where the OP's coming from. My previous car have the light delay and its actually handy when getting in the car in the dark. It gives you enough time to put your seat belt on etc etc. Something i want to do with my GU but the said problem have stopped me from doing it.

[damaverick]

Not saying it's not handy to have a delay before the lights cut out, just doesn't seem worth all that trouble but I guess he has come this far so may as well finish it.

I definitely agree the '89 GQ's need LED's/brighter lights for the cabin as they only have one in the middle of the roof and it is dull as hell.

As for the Patrol GQ wiring diagram, try googling it and you will find heaps of image results. Good luck.

[Robo]

You can buy a load resistor for blinkers that are running LED's.
as normal flasher cans blink to fast with less load .
"same sorta problem not enough load".
may be work for you to.
Here's an example of resistors.
I dont know for a fact it works but the ideas there.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-x-LED-501-T10-W5W-WEDGE-CANBUS-NO-ERROR-LOAD-RESISTOR-/300590337115?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item45fc948c5b

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4X-LED-Turn-Signal-Fog-Running-Load-Resistors-Blinker-Bulbs-Fix-25W-8ohm-12V-/150899704868?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item232252c424

[Yendor]

I picked up a kit from Jaycar the other day for making the interior lights stay on for awhile after you shut the door, then it fades out or goes out when you turn the headligts on. All good except when I shut the doors the lights went out straight a way, after doing some googling found that because I'm running LED's the isnt enought resistance in the circuit to make the timer in the unit work.. I put a regular globe in the rear interior light and the system now works fine. but I prefer the LED's. I read some where I needed to out a 10w 10 ohm resistor in the circuit to compensate for the normal bulb, tried that and it worked fine until the resistor got that hot it started smoking then blew the fuse, found out its the same fuse that runs power to the clock and radio when everything is turned off.... some have suggested "to fit an ordinary globe in under your dash in parallel with your LED's, preferably one on the passengers side, one on the drivers side, to illuminate the floor, and to provide enough current to operate the circuit. but I dont have the wiring diagrams for my 89 GQ, and help or suggestions greatly accepted, as right now with the normal globe in the rear light with leds running in parallel it looks stupid, nice bright leds, with a yellow glow alone side of it...

If you want to do this, the easiest place to find the wiring for the interior lights is at the RHS A pillar.

There is a connector in the RHS kick panel and the harness runs up the A pillar.

The colours of the two wires you need are Red and Black with a pink trace.

[ckh]

If you want to do this, the easiest place to find the wiring for the interior lights is at the RHS A pillar.

There is a connector in the RHS kick panel and the harness runs up the A pillar.

The colours of the two wires you need are Red and Black with a pink trace.

Have pulled the kick panel off and the fuse box and still cant find those wires...

[Agronaught]

A load resistor, especially a 10 ohm isn't going to last too well there. What wattage are the LED lights ?

[Yendor]

Have pulled the kick panel off and the fuse box and still cant find those wires...

It should be up high in the kick panel.

Here's a picture of the harness layout from the workshop manual, although it doesn't really help much.

I'am going around a mates place next weekend and there will be a couple of GQ's there, if need be I can have a look and take a photo.

[Agronaught]

Did you put the resister in parallel or series?

In parallel it a 10 ohm resister @12v would need to dissipate 14 watts of heat so a little short on the power estimate (1.2 amps). A 1K resistor would draw 144 milliamps and well under 1/4 watt and should still accomplish what you want.

J

[threedogs]

You want these I think

[Agronaught]

Sorry about the multiple posts, been thinking about this on the train.

1K in parallel _should_ work, but is a waste of power as it's just turning in to heat. 10 ohms would work in SERIES with the bulb as this would increase the size of the load (light) visible to the dimmer without reducing the generated light any real extent. Depending on the wattage of the bulb this probably doesn't need to be a high wattage resistor.

Dont use the 50 watt can's shown above... I've used these to heat a hot end in a plastic extruder to over 250C...

On the down side, you may have blown the output transistor on the dimmer.

j.

[mudski]

You want these I think
Try them and if they work tell me as I want to do this mod too. But they look like the those load resistors used on 24v trucks so they can use LED lights without them flashing really fast.

[Agronaught]

In series @ 24v, that would make sense.

[ckh]

Have order 2 x 46 led globes from ebay rated at 5W each, so since my current set up works fine with the led's I got and putting a 10W normal bulb in as well to give the resistance hopefully 5 w resistance in the front glob and 5 w in the cargo area should give the same effect...

[mudski]

Let us know how it goes.

[Yendor]

Have pulled the kick panel off and the fuse box and still cant find those wires...

Not sure if you are still after this, here's the photo of the wires and connector.

This photo was taken of a GQ ute with the dash removed (thanks lil Rig) so the angle of the photo is looking down through the dash towards the pedals.

In the photo you can see the top mounting screws for the fusebox near my thumb nail.

The connector might be sitting inside that recess in the kick panel above the fusebox.

Because this is a ute it only has 2 wires in the connector, the wagons should have 3.

[ckh]

Let us know how it goes.

The 2 x 5W LED lights came today and they dont provide enough resistance, i have to find those wires in the pillar and wire up a 10W buld to make it work.. put everything back to the way it was, so long as a 10w bulb is in the circuit, the dimmer works fine..

[ckh]

Not sure if you are still after this, here's the photo of the wires and connector.

This photo was taken of a GQ ute with the dash removed (thanks lil Rig) so the angle of the photo is looking down through the dash towards the pedals.

In the photo you can see the top mounting screws for the fusebox near my thumb nail.

The connector might be sitting inside that recess in the kick panel above the fusebox.

Because this is a ute it only has 2 wires in the connector, the wagons should have 3.

Thanks to your post found the wires I needed, bought a 5 dollar 5 watt light from super cheap, one to mount in the glove box or boot as they say on the packaging, wired it up just above the kick panel "will come in handy if I need to change a fuse at night as well" and woohoo, lights fading sweet as now...

Thanks again to everyones advice, now to figure out where I'm going to put the expensive super bright LED slabs I had sitting inside the old dome lights...

[mudski]

So what did you actually buy to get this all to work?

[NP99]

So what did you actually buy to get this all to work?

X2 on your parts list.