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View Full Version : Removing the head on tb42 efi



The Phat Patroller
1st October 2012, 10:11 PM
Hey guys

Tomorrow I'm tackling the job of ripping the head of my 95 GQ tb42 efi, does anyone have any special tips or tricks or pitfalls I should look out for? I have a strong mechanical background but it has been primarily focused on motorbikes but I'm sure I can make it transfer :)

BigRAWesty
1st October 2012, 10:27 PM
Put bolts back were they come from..
But get new head bolts.. HT bolts should only ever be tensioned once..
Take photos at each stage.. This way you can work backwards with easy, and won't forget one thing and have to pull things out again..


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The Phat Patroller
3rd October 2012, 12:28 PM
Ok so I got held up yesterday but I was talking to a head guy and he told me the tb42 motor is known for having small cracks in the top near the bolt hole for the rocker train, reason being there is oil in the water, but no water in the oil so yesterday I had a mechanic check for exhaust gas in the water I believe and he said it was clear so he said I could get away with chemiweld if I wanted to.

Any opinions as to whether or not I should chemiweld?

Benno7
3rd October 2012, 01:12 PM
Dont use chemiweld its only a bandaid fix and it will cause you more pain down the track.
Rip the head off get it crack tested then if all good get it machined.
If the head is cracked you can pickup a good 2nd hand one for around $200 or new for $1000

Robo
3rd October 2012, 01:26 PM
Its not the A1 way of doing things. But chemi weld does work well.
Had a motor that was leaking externally through side wall of block after being chemically wash for reco.
I tried 4 products and chemi weld was the only product that actually work, that was 5 yrs ago and I know its still holding up to this day.

If funds dont permit for head reco then
chemi weld to seal a crack / leak .
cant see it preventing one
you need to ensure it hasn't blocked rad or thermostat.
so more work there.

problem around head is likely hood of extreme alternating pressure could cause failure of chemi weld so proberly be a temp patch as previously described.

Think you may find, and It's only a theory, the cracking described could be cause by poor cooling.
So a well maintained cooling system should help in preventing such trouble.
A well tuned, healthy mtr also helps, but it needs decent cooling system to stay that way.
Poorly tuned or maintained engines tend to run hotter and tax the cooling system.
A motor with any sort of leak need attention asap, as these things tend to snow ball.
Hope that clears thing up some what.
Cheers

threedogs
3rd October 2012, 02:33 PM
Chemiweld will destroy your motor and radiator, great if your going to sell this week, Not my idea of a fix IMO

BigRAWesty
3rd October 2012, 08:31 PM
Yea as above. Tops for a quick fix, avoid if you want reliability..


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