Circuit breaker required??

[abbo_05]

Hi guys,

Currently installing a duel battery system with a redarc SDI12D isolator in my GU TD4.2l, to run fridge and spotlights in the rear, I have being looking around and have spoken too few stores but still not sure what I actually need, I have fitted arb tray got the isolator, button switch for override, inline 40 amp maxi fuse with 6mm cable, ( iguess this for resr aux cable) will I need circuit breakers on my batt wires at both batteries? Won't the trip when starting engine?
Do I need separate fuse block in rear for aux wires?
Should I use 2 b&s for batts, and 8mm for aux wire?
I know thicker the better but, just seeing!!

Cheers lads!

[the evil twin]

Almost as many different ways of doing it as there are horses in the Melbourne Cup cobber.

Battery interconnect wire - 2 B&S if you intend starting off the Aux or have a winch otherwise lighter gauge is fine.

Battery interconnect fusing - I don't, some do. There are points for and against but it's a preference thing. I run the + ve cable across the firewall not across the front.

The 40 amp is for the feed from the Aux to the gear at the back. Put it as close to the battery as is reasonable and convenient. It's purpose is to protect the cable run not the gear hanging off it hence the 40 amp rating.

Most/all fridges have a fuse/C/B so no need for any more protection for that item.

A fuse block is handy at the back for connecting any other gear such as reversing floods, work/camp lights, cams, etc etc otherwise inline fuses for the bit of gear is preferred.

Just my views others may disagree but pfft some people even drive Prados

[Lunny]

As much as the fridges have there own fuse's I still put a 40amp heat activated circuit breaker.

bit of overkill but in my opinion I have a fridge worth two grand that I don't want anything to harm it so the 20 dollar circuit breaker was worth it to me ...