Robo's ride

[Robo]

Well the truth it's my Wife's.
But she has good taste, lmao.
But I did say Nissan.
Looked for this to replace old Mk lwb.
It, Mav as she's called, sits beside My GTR so best of both worlds.
Who's a lucky boy!!


Had to post this some where, 93 mod TB42s lwb towed a V8 Bruiser out of the Poo yesterday 27/7/12 and if I was there You would have a pic's LMAO.

[GUtsy ute]

Nice looking rig robo,
Keep the pics coming and tell your wife she's got great taste in cars!

[taslucas]

That is a VERY clean rig mate. Mirror finish everywhere!

Buy your own robo before you get hers dirty and bent up!!

I know this is a patrol forum but id love to see a pic of your gtr smoking:)

[Silver]

that is a well looked after troll

[taslucas]

that is a well looked after troll

Thats his wife your talking about......

lol

[growler2058]

Thats his wife your talking about......

lol

I thought that was his ride hahahaha
Definitely a neat Mav mate! Now lift n lock ;-)


Tap, Tap.......Who's there?

[DX grunt]

Nice truck. Keep us up to date with the mods, please? lol

Take care out there.

Rossco

[Robo]

Yep a red rig, and a Red Head behind the wheel, so play nice fellers lol

[joetrol]

That is such a tidy looking rig mate!
Gotta love trolls and skylines

[threedogs]

Can't you do the dishes for a month to get the papers signed over, very clean 4x4
You may have to take one for the team.
Do what you have to do

[big bell]

match made in heaven there bud !

[Robo]

Spent a long time looking for this bus, couple of yrs of looking at sus vehicles.
The previous owner had a car accident and lost a leg, Mav is manual so unfortunately couldn't drive it anymore.
Poor fella felt very sorry for him, but that's life I guess, gotta roll with the punches.

Stock from dealer only acc's were.
Alloy b-bar.
Extractors.
LPG.
H-reese tow bar
pioneer cd player and 4 speakers.
not yet fitted 2nd hand side steps.

Mav's Wife's run-about and Horse float tow vehicle.
std springs and shocks were first to go.
2" h-duty + bags and shocks .
H-duty springs were 2 stiff for a baby in car seat baby was bouncing up under the belts.
We opted for Lpg spring instead 2' rear and about 1' front smoother ride and bags as backup when float is on.

I've fitted.
Side steps
Pertronic 1.
elec brakes .
Steer Damper.
ext rear lower trailing arms.
new rubber bushes throughout.
2 Deg caster correction poly.
Morreys oil dripper system,custom mtd.
wrapped-insulated the extractors.
alarm system.
windows tinted, rear wagon section have static see through sheet instead of tint.
Iridium spark plugs.
clutch slave.
front cal kits.
slotted discs
kevlar reinforced pads.
front swivel and hub bearings + seals.
replaced mismatched exhaust pipe sizes between mufflers with 2" 1/2 pipe.
water pump, stock thermostat.
reco radiator and flush system.
14" thermo fan to replace smaller std one.
various fittings and hoses.
Extra earths leads to battery from lpg and engine.
crystal front lights with +20% h4's.
stalker spotties and converted to Hid 4500k.
repainted gutters for better protection.
both front window winders.
All the usual stuff oils grease etc.
and sure plenty more I could list.

[choppie]

Sorry to hear you haven't got your name on papers, but cheer up you may get to ride in it one day.................LOL

[Robo]

I'll be dammed if I was only allowed to repair it and not get behind the wheel.
Na Just kidding, I drive it every couple of days.
And It's in my name.
Probably should put it in better half's name for insurance Shannons are the best out there.
both the cars are with em, happy as larry with cover and price

[Robo]

Fitted brake bias ext for 2".
but with a softer lift "LPG" spring ext not needed .
only need to adjust arm for these coils.
but will leave it on as 1 day may refit h/d coils and go bush who knows.lol

[Robo]

Jaycar battery monitor.
fitted into side of cluster.
kit $18.
bits n pce $30.

[Robo]

UHF now fitted and went off rd towing camp trailer.
left Mon came back following Mon.
Had a bloody fantastic time.
1/2 hr out of Dungog, in state forest, Coachwood camp grounds.
Plan to do it again soon.
Mav went bush, nice rocky terrain nothing hard just tight quarters at times.
Ended up at this water hole basically carved in stone.

Must say very happy how well Mav holds its own off rd with a rd bias type tyre.

Oh, forgot new holes in front bar are for some projector lights I have laying around have to get alloy brackets and covers welded in then fit up.
h'duty 120 amp cable and auto reset-able fuse box for power out back.
portable comp I got for chrissy. 100 psi 100% duty cycle mtr
80 amp cable and fuse box under dash almost fitted.
with that going to bypass std wiring for CD player, radio, elec brake etc

[sjpatrol]

nice ride mate

[Ducer]

Is that battery monitor for your main or aux? Stupid question, I am assuming you could hook it up to either?

[Robo]

Is that battery monitor for your main or aux? Stupid question, I am assuming you could hook it up to either?

Never stupid.
only main, suppose you could switch between 2 bats if you set it up that way.
or make 2 kits and remote mt boards and use computer ribbon to run the Leds to the dash.
it also monitors for over voltage, so if alternator over charging you can tell straight away.
last Led is red = over voltage.

[Robo]

Mavs had a new cyl head ,lpg valves and hoses.
rockers and shaft replaced, no tic tic any more.
new timing chain kit.
extractors to block exhaust leaked so while head was off, extractors decked.
3 core copper brass radiator.
Dissy has new bearing, seal & a new gen cap.
a new fuel sender/pickup, wasn't working below 1/2 full.
replaced fuel tank relief valve.
Safari tuff clutch.
engine mt replaced.
clutch booster re-kitted.
clutch master kit.
lpg converter kit.
slotted rotors front.
slotted dimpled rear.
all calipers recoed.
new pads all round.
GQ TI alloys wheels replaced ROH steel.
OME steering damper.
Koni shocks.( removed , now on GU).
anderson plug under rear step.
electric brake fitted in dash custom hole almost looks std acc.
Front windscreen and rubber.
both rear barn doors window rubbers.
starter motor new bearings and commutator cleaned up.

[Robo]

Decided to maybe look at larger van as family size is changing & then Mav no longer fits the bill.
Considering Ranger new later this yr saving a deposit etc and then a 2002 GU 4.2td locally came on the market.
Owner was old family friend on better half's side.
now retired and selling himself, he went to the dark side and V8.
mostly rd klms, towing a van, no real 4x4 stuff.
clean & tidy and std except for,
Hayman tow Bar.
2" + 200 kg rear springs and matched OME shocks 5 yrs old.
tweaked injector pump.
3" exh system.
over head console 2 radio's.
IPF lights.
so now I guess I'll have a lot of this and that to check etc , and Mav's going to the market.
here's a pic of old and new side by side.

[Stropp]

getting a nice collection together robo.

[Robo]

May line up all for a Nissan family pic before they depart.
:groupwave:

[Robo]

GQ King springs 2" +200kg in the front now to replace std springs.
(had them sitting in shed).
IPF's have been replaced
Must say I like the GU's manners.


18/2/14. Hid spotties transfered from Mav.
120% holgens.
2 x bonnet struts.
19/2/14 Provent 200.

[Robo]

Looking to install a WTA or FMC,
(and I guess a turbo upgrade )
After some input on these 3 different approaches.
The task, to tow much better.
bearing in mind, at turbo upgrade is likely to follow.
Build spec--
reliability of engine to remain.
similar if not better fuel figures it's a daily drive 12/100.
Power % up, so it can respectably
hold it's own towing decent weight +2T at hwy speeds.

throwing this out there-
My Factory Td42t is 330 nm, is a again of 30%Nm = 429 Nm on the money.
or can we do better? how please?.
remember, not interested in rebuilding an engine, decent gain and reliability.

you have done what,why and the out come?
please a pwr cooler and gt2863rs isn't the story,
"full specs please" all info, sizes etc.
don't worry about how much do I want to spend.
just write what ya know including what it cost and then we all can chew it over.
cheers

[Robo]

VDO Boost install
Just purchased VDO Boost and pyro kit.
Boost came with solid plastic pipe which uses olive type fitting.

Looks like I need to drill and tap a hole for boost pickup,
Need a port similar to injector compensator boost line pickup on top cross over.
Don't want to drill into top cross over pipe and discover the spot isn't thick enough to tap a thread.
Where is the best position??.
bottom is temp gauge , already had sitting in shed.

[Robo]

Got some verniers, cross over is about 5mm thick enough to tap a thread for boost pick up fitting.
And scottsrods full 3 " exh system ordered.

[Robo]

Scotts rods exhaust fitted.
I sent him the pyro bung supplied with VDO gauge and he welded it to the new dump.
vdo funny size or some thing orather.

Nice a quite still.
sits hi in chassie and was easy to fit at home.
apart from the usual troublesome studs and nuts.

Turbo dosent hit any more.
It comes on slightly sooner and seems more progressive to me.
I also noticed some turbo run-on.
Engine breaking slightly less so it has free-d up the turbo for sure.

And a set of cooper AT3 going on next mon

[Robo]

Today Pat got all sway bar rubbers replaced.
and OME 2 deg poly caster bushes.
Poly isn't preferred option, 2" lift is max for now so that' will have to do "compromise".
wifes car and any higher is to hi for her.
tried pedders rubber casters in Mav and they were to soft and got the flick.
so just went with poly this time round.

Thinking about keeping Mav and getting rid of lpg and setting it up instead of Pat for off rd.
Mav's body is fine (wish I could say the same), can do 99% work at home, so will see.

[Robo]

GU This week.
T/d SV damper
T/dog adjustable panards done.
Superior adj drag.
NGK Glow plugs.
Fuel filter.
Power steer fluid yuk,
replaced that drove 100ks, drained again now synthetic oil .

[Robo]

Kenwood 2din and reversing camera.
Mod air filter box to increase size of outlet, now full 90mm pipe, no restriction any more, under $20.
It's not pretty but does the job well.
New elec aerial mast and service it's gearbox.

[Robo]

Fitted Superior tierods and bar.
Wheel align and rotate bal etc.

[Robo]

Humm been a yrs since I updated.
older and rounder!
x2 reversing camera.
roof racks.
elec brake controller.
tmic ordered hpd 450x300x76 with fan & temp controller.
o/haul alternator.
fitted 100w 4300k hid's in spotties, very good,and low flare with rd signs, nice outcome.
been a very busy year time I got up and wound the wick up on pat.
tax check soon, and possibly a new air box & turbo!.

[threedogs]

All good but where's the pics

[Robo]

All good but where's the pics

Pic of my middle "older and rounder".
don't think anyone here would be interested, well I hope not.
if ya are, three dogs !!, to bad it's not happening.
As for the rest I think these items have truly been well covered.

I'll will however take some pics of tmic when it arrives and during diy fit up.
and some feed back I guess.

plenum upgrade, think plan is,
fit tmic, followed soon by airbox and turbo and we will see from there.

[Viiper]

pwaa, I don't think i've even seen cars out of the factory that clean, nice!

[Robo]

OK I've installed the kit, taken heap of pics just gotta get to writing it up.
but here's a taste604776047860479

[Robo]

Took off for the weekend pulling 22 ft van.
over rd that I know how she goes, with same load etc.
the kit has improved temps big time.
wont go higher than 410 deg c.
I tried testing the temps on the freeway on purpose a few times to see if it would go higher,
even giving the business through the gears from a standing start up hill to reach 100 kph still 410 deg c.

pulling power up.
staying power also up !!
Easy mod, and very good value bang for your buck improvement.

maybe I don't know better, but a feller I know with same car, wta, plaz-ma plenum, and a (2860 I think) , also tuned, bragging "it won't go higher than 400".
but mine is yet to be tuned and still std ht18 at 12psi, so correct if I'm wrong but Its' looking good so far.

now the boss is on board with power up.
so turbo gtx2863r here we come,
"that'll fix him up".
yipeeeeeee.

[Robo]

Intercooler fitted.
GTX2863R ordered.
Injectors ordered.
NPC 6x6 clutch on the way.
Injector pump DC3 upgrade, soon as other parts fitted at home

fit and tune look out,
outta my way.

humm looking at airbox, snorkle and engine mounts.

[mudski]

Intercooler fitted.
GTX2863R ordered.
Injectors ordered.
NPC 6x6 clutch on the way.
Injector pump DC3 upgrade, soon as other parts fitted at home

fit and tune look out,
outta my way.

humm looking at airbox, snorkle and engine mounts.
Fun times mate.

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

[Robo]

New gen water pump on the way.
Superior Engineering captive engine mt arrived.
Rear gen main seal arrived.
NPC 6x6 clutch arrived.
just waiting on turbo kit now.

had a new carrier and fork for clutch for a short while

[Robo]

Turbo kit just turned up, with a new set of injectors.

now the down side, going away next week.
no time to install new clutch and break it in, in time to, fit kit and tune beforehand.
arrh,
nar, heads up, future looking bright for Pat.

[Robo]

The days finally here.
Removing engine to fit new ---

Front and rear main seals.
clutch, water pump.
humm was going to fit new turbo also, but new clutch needs time to bed in-
"before power up" might leave that for later I think.
various other jobs on the list.
port exh manifold, injectors , thermostat,
new alternator,old one just dropped voltage 2 days ago.

F@##@k I just broke my good reading glasses,
The harmonic balancer nut measures 55 mm is that correct ??.
my set stops at 50mm, need a new socket I guess.
Doing just about all the work alone, any tips ??????.

[nissannewby]

Yes 55mm for crank nut.

If doing rear main would be best to do sump gasket as well as it generally gets disturbed when changing the rear main.

Just put the turbo on. Hell of a lot easier with the donk out. The 6x6 should be fine mate. Also if you can I would recommend taking some weight out of the flyhweel. Will make it much smoother.

[Robo]

Yes 55mm for crank nut.

If doing rear main would be best to do sump gasket as well as it generally gets disturbed when changing the rear main.

Just put the turbo on. Hell of a lot easier with the donk out. The 6x6 should be fine mate. Also if you can I would recommend taking some weight out of the flyhweel. Will make it much smoother.

Thanks,
while its out, was going to remove the sump, make sure no surprises in there, general clean up .
you called it, but I wasn't sure on the clutch and bedding it as the new turbo afr would be out of wack.
drive it easy for a short while, talked me into it , didn't really want to do it later any way.
f/wheel weight,
Smoother don't ya mean,more responsive?.
weight watchers how much do ya recon off ?

[Robo]

Yes 55mm for crank nut.

If doing rear main would be best to do sump gasket as well as it generally gets disturbed when changing the rear main.

Just put the turbo on. Hell of a lot easier with the donk out. The 6x6 should be fine mate. Also if you can I would recommend taking some weight out of the flyhweel. Will make it much smoother.

Gasket or silicon for the sump ??

[nissannewby]

Yes more responsive which will make it feel smoother to drive. If you can aim for 1.5-2kg much more than this will require significant machine time. Also get he clutch and flywheel assembly balanced.

I use a gasket with a smear of loctite 515.

[Robo]

Yes more responsive which will make it feel smoother to drive. If you can aim for 1.5-2kg much more than this will require significant machine time. Also get he clutch and flywheel assembly balanced.

I use a gasket with a smear of loctite 515.

Thankyou Bro

[Robo]

Had a few hick ups visitors and what not.
Engines out and on stand ready for attention.
bit busy this week, see what happens!.
Here's some pics of how to go about it with limited room under a car port and still remain able to roll car out of the way etc.
Its so low the engine hoist touches the tie rod bar but just slides under my g/box support bracket.
The box support I made last time I had GQ TB engine out, it'a a straight bolt up for GU also.
Ya don't have to worry about a jack under car.
I made a similar bracket for my GTR except with tabs welded on, then able to bolt up to g/box for real support,then tilt tray car 100k to work shop.
Using the steel wheels also gives more room to move hoist around and allows it in closer & in a retracted position for a larger swl , just that bit safer.
Ya have to have alot done before you lower the car this much but it's worth the effort.
619526195361954

[Robo]

Hummm,
so how do you remove the collet lock from harmonic balancer and crank??

[jay see]

Are you looking for somewhere to put a puller on? Don't. When I did my timing case seal, I gave it a few desent hits with a soft face hammer and then wiggle it out.

[Robo]

Are you looking for somewhere to put a puller on? Don't. When I did my timing case seal, I gave it a few desent hits with a soft face hammer and then wiggle it out.

Nar not looking for a puller.
Can clearly see that wouldn't work against a taper lock.
I searched & searched for "collet lock solution" gave up.
I worked out in the end.
Used a bit of pipe with ID a bit larger than the taper lock.
Placed it around the taper, tap tap, and of it all came.
Little shock around the taper did the trick.
Thanks for the input.
cheers

[jff45]

TD42 crank pulley fitting is totally different to TB45.

You did well if you found a tube the right diametre. I used a 25mm brass drift and just went around a few times between the bolts until it loosened.

It's advised to make sure you get the taper lock seated in place with a drift and not try to push it into place with the nut.
You'll clearly hear when it's back as far as it will go.

I was initially advised to just put the nut level with the thread and give the crank end a good whack but I couldn't bring myself to do it.. :)

[Robo]

Got the exh manifold off, it looks to be fairly well port matched going by the exhaust residue and how the gaskets match up to ports.
Only a small amount of port machining to do, to get it humming along better.
time to try the new tools out, last die grinder gave out.

[Robo]

Yes more responsive which will make it feel smoother to drive. If you can aim for 1.5-2kg much more than this will require significant machine time. Also get he clutch and flywheel assembly balanced.

I use a gasket with a smear of loctite 515.

What could I expect to pay for machining 1.5 kg off the flywheel & balance assembly ?.

[nissannewby]

What could I expect to pay for machining 1.5 kg off the flywheel & balance assembly ?.

Not sure but its not a big job and would only take an hour or less for someone to do it on the lathe

[Robo]

So Iv'e made about 30 phone calls and looked @ numerous web pages.
who in the hell machines weight off flywheels and balances them in NSW.
Around the newcastle to sydney radius.
I'm in the middle of that area.

Humm, for us beginners to this mod,
what is mirror balance ?
and neutral balance ?

[nissannewby]

Have you tried and engine rebuilders? They generally have the tooling for the lighten balance.

It will just be a zero balance mate. Will be difficult to do a mirror balance without opening the engine.

[OLY]

So Iv'e made about 30 phone calls and looked @ numerous web pages.
who in the hell machines weight off flywheels and balances them in NSW.
Around the newcastle to sydney radius.
I'm in the middle of that area.

Humm, for us beginners to this mod,
what is mirror balance ?
and neutral balance ?

I believe, and correct me if i'm wrong, mirror balance is where they match the harmonic ballancer and the flywheel together on the engine as a rotating assembly and a neutral/zero balance is when they just balance the flywheel on it's own (or including the clutch assembly)

[Robo]

Have you tried and engine rebuilders? They generally have the tooling for the lighten balance.

It will just be a zero balance mate. Will be difficult to do a mirror balance without opening the engine.

Machine shops and clutch shops but not engine rebuilders.
Ah I'll ring the fellar who rebuilt my GTR engine in the morning.
don't know why I didn't think of that first lol.

[Robo]

Engine builder advises me not to machine weight off cast fly wheel.
"They are prone to breaking once altered".
get a billet was his advise.

ok another hickup,
well I'm saving heaps and getting lots done for the dollars ratio.
so bit more time off the rd won't kill me.
gotta stay positive, bit more research.

Also the front input seal on gear box, its a FS5R50B
apart from needing a new cover gasket.
Is there any reason I can't remove front cover to replace this seal ??.
I don't really want a snow ball affect, but it makes sense to replace while engine is out.

[nissannewby]

Interesting. There are many high powered tds with lightened standard flywheels running around without an issue. Some with upwards of 700nm.

Yes just pull the retainer out and replace seal and gasket even input bearing if your keen.

[Robo]

Ok input seal taken care of thanks.
Thought I may run into a issues with end play clearance tolerances if I replace just the gasket.
what about the self sealing bolts? reuse with sealer or just replace.
Front g/box input bearing slips off easily?.

Engine builder is hi performance/hi rev tech builder.
have taken that as a err on the side of caution given his usual build specs, 6k+ rev band.
but 2nd 3rd opinion is always worth considering.

I'm more interested in the harmonics of flywheel & crank with increased torque spread over low rev band.
think its a wise idea to lighten a little going by what Iv'e read here, en there.
Again old mav has alot of useful yrs of knowledge and wisdom.
I know my torque figures aren't up there but I'm building for longevity.

[Robo]

Porting the std header??.
I ve just finished porting the header inlet

the twin ports of the exit is a very crude looking area.
Is it worth removing material to form a so called "knife edge " on it's exit ??.

Oh, just put front & rear seals, sump gasket, water pump and harmonic balancer back on.
some progress at last.

[Robo]

Front g/box input , vac pump and lower thermostat fitting seals ordered all gen parts and good prices.
that's for preventive maintenance while engines out.
Will look at input bearing while front covers off and get a new one also.
no gasket for that according to manual it's silicon sealed.

Finally found a shop fairly close, Duncan and Foster in Blacktown, that can machine and bal the flywheel, also well priced.
Approx $300 to lighten, surface grind and balance.
Also found a work shop Westend Performance in Campbelltown who can balances the complete rotating assembly, harmonic to flywheel as a unit.

[Robo]

This evening got board so reconditioned the 2 water fittings from thermostat housing.
Save $30 bucks I suppose.
but its more like, I like to do it myself.
Will now get another few yrs out of them.
lightly sand blasted the ends to remove scale
Wire wheel stripped the gunk off.
This gives a smooth shinier surface, which plates better.
I could of filled the pits with solder but didn't feel like it, and they are not that badly pitted.
ya then scrub clean with sugar soap mix to remove any residue.
Rinse off.
Then plate the zinc back on about an hr.
Another wash and rinse.
Then dip in goldbrite to give the goldish coloured finish.
Hang to dry. diy.
6230362304623056230662307

IF IT'S NOT A NISSAN.
THEN IT'S A COMPROMISE

[Robo]

Ordered a Preluber kit while the engine upgrade is happening.
all depends how long it takes to arrive ex US.
Stored oil pressure is automatically released via oil pressure switch port before the engine starts when key is turned to aux.
that'll add yrs to the engines life.
62376

[threedogs]

This evening got board so reconditioned the 2 water fittings from thermostat housing.
Save $30 bucks I suppose.
but its more like, I like to do it myself.
Will now get another few yrs out of them.
lightly sand blasted the ends to remove scale
Wire wheel stripped the gunk off.
This gives a smooth shinier surface, which plates better.
I could of filled the pits with solder but didn't feel like it, and they are not that badly pitted.
ya then scrub clean with sugar soap mix to remove any residue.
Rinse off.
Then plate the zinc back on about an hr.
Another wash and rinse.
Then dip in goldbrite to give the goldish coloured finish.
Hang to dry. diy.
6230362304623056230662307

IF IT'S NOT A NISSAN.
THEN IT'S A COMPROMISE

would 3/8th bsp to 10mm hose barb in copper be better as in longer lasting as it cant rust.
just saying.

[nissannewby]

would 3/8th bsp to 10mm hose barb in copper be better as in longer lasting as it cant rust.
just saying.

Where do you buy copper ones? The only ones I know of are the brass ones but they are no better than the ones which come with the engine?.

[Robo]

Yeah the idea of weak fittings, any stray current or poor inhibitor is present, then they are supposed to become a sacrificial anode.
and save the expensive cast alloy fittings, well its a theory anyway but makes sense to me.
But hey I bought the kit yrs ago and did alot of bits on the GTR.
the goldbrite comes in handy.
I just replaced the fuel rail as removing the old injectors twisted & broke it.
the new oem rail was only zinc plated unlike the original one.
give it a clean and rinse and dip in goldbrite and rinse.
and it will stay looking new for a long time.
I also ordered some of those alloy brazing rods tmh2000 (or something like that).
low temp rods for repairing the slight damage on the lower thermo fitting, save over $200 for something else.

[BigRAWesty]

Geeze this thing will be showroom spec once done..
That's also a pretty good price on the flywheel mod..

[Robo]

Geeze this thing will be showroom spec once done..
That's also a pretty good price on the flywheel mod..

Nar , it's just alot of work over a short period of time.
But the td's are worth it hay!.
About to go and pickup f/wheel this morning, getting stuck in this-arvo.
"Back On the Rd again" Real soon.

[BigRAWesty]

Still gunna be a nice ride..
All these builds going on and mines going backwards makes me sad.... :(

[Robo]

Still gunna be a nice ride..
All these builds going on and mines going backwards makes me sad.... :(

Its all horses for courses, ahh fairly sure you've got a few things sorted that I haven't.
chasing a bit extra for pulling large caravan and not struggling doing it.
then there's the fools that keep cutting ya off, thinking its ok cause your in big slow 4x4 lmao.

Near finished got a few things to do, should fire back to life after lunch today.
Then book in for injector pump upgrade & dyno tune.
Happy days.

[threedogs]

Its all horses for courses, ahh fairly sure you've got a few things sorted that I haven't.
chasing a bit extra for pulling large caravan and not struggling doing it.
then there's the fools that keep cutting ya off, thinking its ok cause your in big slow 4x4 lmao.

Near finished got a few things to do, should fire back to life after lunch today.
Then book in for injector pump upgrade & dyno tune.
Happy days.

Havn't read the entire thread but will have you done a brake up grade at all braided lines etc

[threedogs]

Where do you buy copper ones? The only ones I know of are the brass ones but they are no better than the ones which come with the engine?.

Its only a BSP thread isnt it ??????
even come in SS

[Robo]

[QUOTE=threedogs;641106]Havn't read the entire thread but will have you done a brake up grade at all braided lins etc[/QUOTE.

Thought ya couldn't fit braid to ABS equipped cars !.

Did fit braid to GQ it worked well

[Robo]

Well after a few minor delays stopping me from working on it, Pat's back on the Rd again and even better,
No hick-ups from the moment the key was turned.
New turbo feels much better, instance response, all over the old Ht18 hands down.
Boost gauge nearly moves like the tacho now.
cleaning/porting the exh maniflod has paid off I recon.
lightning the fly wheel has also made a real difference 1.5 kg removed.
NPC 6x6 clutch is very light and easy to use.
acceleration much better, ya can feel alot more torque at play.
very happy with how it's turned out so far.

Thankyou to the fellers who have helped with advice on the build.
3 cheers.

I thought about taking pics of rebuild, it's been covered by others before
didn't feel like getting crap all over the camera.
Be booking in for the injector pump up grade real soon.

[Robo]

Here's a pic of turbo fitted before vac lines plumbed up.62516.

And that's not a torque wrench,
This is a torque wrench!6251762518.
This one 200--750 ftlb. thats around 1000 nm.
Made light work of the harmonic bal nut needing 239ftlb.

[Robo]

Oh nearly forgot ordered a Radius Fabrication snorkel and pod filter today.
but with ram head, if Pat ever goes paddling will simply turn it around first.
simple bolt on mods, may as well make good on the tuning potential.

[Robo]

Ordered a Preluber kit while the engine upgrade is happening.
all depends how long it takes to arrive ex US.
Stored oil pressure is automatically released via oil pressure switch port before the engine starts when key is turned to aux.
that'll add yrs to the engines life.
62376

It's turned up today.
To late, oh well these things happen
Should be fairly straight forward to fit, find somewhere to mt cylinder.
It looks like a fire extinguisher cyl to me.
They include alot if hardware for different mt options.
Think I'll ditch the rubber hose for stainless soon.

started to install this was the best/easiest place to install cyl.
m2c it looks crap there, but is secure and easily removed for whatever reason.
not plumbed yet,will in the morning
62579

[Robo]

Plumbed up .62585

The oil pressure light goes out Before the engine starts now.
If it was for looks then it's sure lacking, but function is what counts.

[Robo]

Arrrhh.
look at what I have to fix now!.
more bl##dy work.
6269362694
bring it on!!!

[Robo]

Snorkel 4" & pod from Radius Fab, all fitted up on sunday and off monday for a new inj pump and tune.
Sorry simply didn't have time for a pic's,will take & post later
Now in neutral engine rev's/responds almost comparable to a petrol mtr.

The lighter flywheel and a lot of other new bits would of also help and porting the exh manifold etc.
But "note", a vast improvement with new intake, since the previous work was carried out.

Ourimbah and Mooney hills are good long climbs, easily sat on 110, & accelerating in top gear.
Driven the car plenty in city traffic, much better now, can't wait for the final result.
Hit a small snag, tacho sensor leaking oil, needs fixing asap, oil over the belts etc making a mess.
waiting waiting waiting.

[Robo]

Firstly,
Those that have made direct input and the people that have made relevant threads,
Thanks again, for all the great advice.

Tune's done, ready to pick up.
150kw atbw,don't know any more yet.
get the skinny tomorrow.
Time to take some pics and post up end result etc.

Have to say again,
very impressed with how well it drove with 99% of new parts fitted.
Now with new dc3 pump and tune! can't wait to drive it home.
some big long hills on the way back,to get a feel for the gains made.

[Robo]

The drive home from sydney was brilliant, city traffic no probs, even for a 4x4 with manual stick.
In fact, felt a bit like the boy racer leaving em all behind at the lights!.
not really trying to, may be a little but more just trying it out.
The temp on the way hi 30 to 40 ish.
egts never went over 350 but I wasn't holding revs for long or laboring so to be expected but still some good hills on the way non the less.
the egt's mostly sat on about 230-275 and engine temp was very good.
I didn't rush around taking pics when I got back home , it was 47.8 deg c ,& 42 in the shade, and tired 4hrs sleep.
Car very drivable comes on boost way earlier.
so the assumption of larger turbo is slower to boost than a std unit isn't entirely true.
If ya went to large well that would be the case, but the GTX2863R solves that issue
pulls extremely well in 5th going up big dipper coming onto M1, if not careful gotta watch I don't get a ticket!
afr 17 and boost set at 23psi on dyno real world boost reaching 28psi.
couldn't see any exhaust in the mirrors.
The new Diesel Central pump DC3 & GTXR turbo work extremely well together.
Lag virtually gone compared to before, and the fuel and boost curve feels very smooth and positive under foot.
very happy chappy, now to hook the van on but very confident it will impress.
And if any one tells you don't lighten your flywheel, tell em to go jump, worth every penny.
well I recon in hindsight worth it with the correct turbo etc.
Pat wasn't intercooled before and it lost a great deal of engine breaking with the large I/C fitted, so the lighter flywheel has given a little of that back , but not all.

Shawn @ Diesel Central Qld, was a lot of help and answered all my questions without issue.
& Jason @ Total care, Seven Hills was also very helpful & happy to share some know how to.
Service from both business was prompt courteous and delivered the goods they said they could.
Thanks again gents


62807 62808[/ATTACH
[ATTACH=CONFIG]6280962810
62811
62813

[nissannewby]

Very nice rob. Good work.

[Robo]

The pic of exh manifold isn't a good one.
You may notice the lines etched, that was a guide for me to port em to the same size
the cast ports weren't even and the center divider was about, 5mm thick,
I trimmed, tapered that down evenly form both sides to about 2.5mm thick.
Also all the internal humps that are around the studs were trimmed down to reduce back pressure etc.

Pat wasn't ever fitted with egr system, but on the cast manifold the large knob of cast was still there, un-machined ready for the egr system.
I cut this off with my angle grinder and ground it back took about 1/2 hr.
It was about 40 x 40 x 60 mm, a good heat sink, directly under the collector area
Theroy was to reduce any stored heat in the manifold that could raise temps.
less heat stored & more straight out the exhaust instead.
One of those 1% things hopefully.

[Robo]

Ok, did a 200 k mostly free way test run towing the 23 ft caravan over the weekend.
verdict. *******AWESOME*******.
egr temps are now lower cruising, comparable to not towing.
actually bit lower than before all the work carried out.
Hills that used to slow me up in 4th pushing it, even then thinking of having to reaching for 3rd near the top,now pat "cruises" over in 4th without the need to push it.
fuel consumption improved, I wasn't trying to save , I was testing how well we tow just keeping revs on song.

also how well under full noise up hill from standing start etc.
egr temps came up pushing hard up hill, within acceptable limits, under 500 deg C, obviously I managed the peddle once I saw climbing to 500, but hill ran out first.
My Missus commented a few times how well Pat goes now.

Towing is much more relaxing now, to a point of just about no more driver input than not having a trailer,
almost giving you a false sense of security.
I had to remind my self to slow down for the various terrain etc given the load.
Any body who tows knows it's alot more work/stress towing, and the bigger the load more driver effort to stay on the ball.

Off the mark is a vast improvement getting the load moving.
The engine pulls so much better off the mark, it can push you back in your seat if ya want, with the load as mentioned.
Going through the gears trying to get up to speed was a bit embarrassing (for us larger loads), Not any more!.
I'd have to say anyone that's thinking of doing these up-grades to improve towing, would also be impressed.

reco injectors.
reco dc3 pump.
DTS GTX2863R.
large intercooler.
4" snorkel and pod filter.
ported exh manifold.
Tune on dyno.
there were alot more bits n pces,seals etc but these are the main bits.
Note the performance gains would not of been as good for each part without the other.

[Robo]

Fitted VDO electronic temp gauge.
& a new 115amp alternator, ebay job.
ordered a 150amp intervolt dual battery controller.
Installed a new anderson with 8G cable to the soon to be installed deep cycle,
also ran a lead running back from the anderson into the rear to replace the old power supply for the fridge.

I came across a 120amp controller that looks very similar to Intervolts smaller 100 amp model.
Good stuff, that will suit the new alternator!
so similar thought it had to be made by them, looked identical going by the front controls & art work etc.
nearly purchased it except it never mentioned if it was dual sensing, made inquires, was informed it was a copy cat unit.
I'd mention the retailer but don't want to walk on wobbly ground, lets just say we jnow them, you work it out.

Dual sensing can detect if your charging the aux battery with an external charger, so if the main is also in need of a charge, it can send some charge there also.
All the in/out parameters of the intervolt are user adjustable which makes it very flexible.

Funny part the 100,120 & 150 amp controllers if ya look for 5 min on the net could be purchased for $199 each.
yeah sure its a pricey way of doing it, but automotive contact type relays switching higher power can & do fail with some very expensive consequences,engine bay fires are one, seen it happen.
First search I did on the well known red$$K controller came back, How I fixed my red$$k, pulling it apart to clean the contacts as they were burnt and were pulsing the voltage, No thanks, This one is solid state, No moving parts.

[threedogs]

Dont think that attachment is working Robo, needs some pics too lol

[Robo]

Dont think that attachment is working Robo, needs some pics too lol

Funny you mention that!.
I noticed the same at this end and tried to load 2 others, now all 3 seem to be working.
I will take some install pics asap

[Robo]

Temp gauge install.
Adapter for sender 12mm x 1.5mm pitch thread (male) , x 1/4 npt (female).
63254 63255
63258
The gaskets needed if ya want to remove the lower housing, these are my spare ones.
63256
Using Nulon coolant, 50/50 with distilled water.
For water temp went with this type of gauge instead of needle, if a problem arises hoping a jump into 3 digits should grab my attention better than a smaller needle, yeah it looks miss matched but they all same brand & quality.
exhaust temps I will monitor more closely going up hill etc, never thought of that back when I purchase them.
63257.

[Hodge]

Edit: Just noticed yours is also 1/8th NPT and not 1/4 like you mentioned in the other thread.

Edit: 2 - You wrote down 1/4npt but the photo shows 1/8 npt ? lol

I also went with the numerical display of water temp as that lets me monitor any change closer than a needle. My EGT and boost is going and gauge displaying, fitting the water temp as we speak.

[Rocket55]

This has been lifted from another Patrol forum.



Here's some pictures of my temperature sender. Like you said the factory port is metric, 12mm I think, so I hot tapped it in situ. Just use grease on the tap to catch the swarf and be ready to start tapping when you remove the bung so that when your coolant runs out it will wash any swarf that didn't get caught in the grease .

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/12/92.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/12/93.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/12/94.jpg

[Robo]

Edit: Just noticed yours is also 1/8th NPT and not 1/4 like you mentioned in the other thread.

Edit: 2 - You wrote down 1/4npt but the photo shows 1/8 npt ? lol

I also went with the numerical display of water temp as that lets me monitor any change closer than a needle. My EGT and boost is going and gauge displaying, fitting the water temp as we speak.

Yeah your right, dahh, don't know why I was thinking 1/4, my mistake.
Had to scrounge in the garbage bin to find that card.

VDO do a needle gauge that has a much longer sweep area, 8 to 4 o'clock which is way better to read than the compressed 10 to 3 o'clock versions IMO.
I have 1, but the sender was to short to reach and their both approx same price new.
But I'm hoping a number that's physically changing in 1 deg increments will work better.
And when the going gets tough, we look at em more.

[Robo]

Made a start on installing dual battery, making my own cradle.
Using some scrap laying around to make it.
I did purchase a base plate & hold down kit from Jaycar.
The jaycar plate doesn't have a flat bottom and needs a spacer to level it, IMO.

1) The inner guard has a slight slope beside the rad overflow bottle, & there are a couple of threaded holes, perfect to help mount the plate.
So positioning the plate over these holes and centered in available space to clear air box etc.
worked out the plate needs a spacer to help level it, spread the load and not deform the guard etc.
using a 5mm thick piece of plastic strip was perfict for the spacer.
Using a good liberal layer of mastic to stick spacer to underside of plate inline with the guards holes, and at a slight angle to compensate for inner guard slope.
Put that aside to cure over night.
Next day holding plate in position over the holes, marked the holes from the under side.
Drilled these holes, then dropped the counter sunk bolts in the holes.
Then placing plate over slightly open vice, gave the bolts a hit and this counter sunk them into the plate.
63338.
sorry I don't take any pics of mastic and spacer, don't feel like pulling it to pieces again.

2) Next was the inner brace.
Piece of angle 30x 30mm (off cut) never measured length it fitted as is , and some tabs weld to it 20x3mm and lining up with more existing threaded holes.

63339
63340.
63342
Working out by eye where the mt levels is straight forward and height for plate level, the tabs are approx 40 and 50 mm long.
There are more than 3 holes available but that's all I used to make the support.
Tabs need a little tweak etc to conform to the guards shape and to line up the base plate mounting hole/s.
Paint and dry over night

3) Placed the base in position screw & bolted in using a nyloc nut, to be sure.
didn't bother with extra bolts in base is an odd shape and it's strong as is.

4) Top support tie down bracket, again straight forward, never really measured lengths it was done by eye.
Battery angle clamps are approx 100 mm long and I made a small mistake where I drilled the nearside tie down hole, bit to wide.
Just welded another spacer under that and re-drilled it closer to the battery.
Up at the guard end, substituted with longer bolt , washer & nut as a spacer to clear guard edge.
Once it was all tightened down solid as a rock, works for me.
yep welds look a bit ugly, gal from the angle kept transferring with the grinder & rods not fully dry.
Used epoxy flat black paint on the brackets.
63343 63344
63345 63346
63347 63348
Yes the bracket is built at an angle as the center of the battery and the guard bolt are off set.

Honestly all up it cost bit under 1/2 the price of buying one and the time it took, don't think I'd do it again.
And it's not fully zinc or powder coated, just some points worth mentioning.


Next the wiring, in pics it's been started, in between jobs.

[Robo]

On holidays yipeeeeeeee.
Some wiring after dinner.
And fixed the controller in place.
63369 63370.

[Robo]

Some more wiring & finished.
4 gauge through 100a breaker & the relay onto deep cycle battery.
8 gauge through 70a breaker down to rear anderson & then branched for power into the back for 40 lt engel.
Using 5mm nutserts to secure the rely and breakers.
Will be installing new power sockets and meter in the rear small panel after chrissy, now going to enjoy hols before any more happens.
63408

[Robo]

Just purchased front swivel/wheel bearings kit, so gotta get that done asap easter hols.
Got the bug!!.
Domin8tor 12000lb from 4wdsupacentre, Qld show sale prices to good to pass over.

I'm thinking larger tyres, diff ratios, lockers, Wake up Jeff!!
Hope the missus isn't reading this.

Think I can wrap the winch as a 27 yr wedding anniversary present, will that be ok!! lol

[Robo]

Seems water had got into the wheel bearings, were in poor shape.
Think it can be safely said,
If the king pin bearings need replacing do the whole job while your there.
Once this 1 is complete, that'll be MK, GQ,and GU all done at home.
CV in great shape no water entry.

[Robo]

The steering feels great, more precise, and with less Rd feed back.
So another job well done.
Worth noting-- checking , readjusting the new wheel bearings after break in period of 500k, even though procedure has you pre torquing the bearings to seat them.

[Robo]

Started the winch bracket last weekend, used our Mates diy winch cradle gu alloy bar threads for inspiration.
I also trying to cut costs and use scrap from home.
Had some C section 75x40x6mm ,man its strong for this job.
Also had the some 75x75x5 angle so trimmed to 55mm on 1 edge suits great.
Main bars 600mm long.
Angle 170mm long.
I welded bars and angle together and am making a spacer/fairlead mount bracket to suit alloy bar.
Bent the 12x32mm bar on my 20t press to the desired angles.
Pics speak a thousand words.
still work in progress been crook since last weekend.
6630266303663046630566306

[Robo]

66310663116631266313

[nissannewby]

Coming together nicely there Robo

[Robo]

Coming together nicely there Robo

Your into off Rd correct, ya recon the 12mm bar for fairlead will stand up to pressure as is? or more bracing to bull bar required

[nissannewby]

I think they will flex under pressure mate. You need to probably put a spine on each one and join them with a bit of flat bar. Dont expect the ally fair lead to hold it together it should only be for guidance.

Unless I'm looking at it wrong and they bolt to the bullbar?

[Robo]

I think they will flex under pressure mate. You need to probably put a spine on each one and join them with a bit of flat bar. Dont expect the ally fair lead to hold it together it should only be for guidance.

Unless I'm looking at it wrong and they bolt to the bullbar?

Thanks, I braced underneath to help against flex, wasn't sure if more would be needed.
No, they aren't set up to bolt to bar, was trying to make it independent to the bar all together.
I'll relook at bracing in the AM.

[Robo]

Bracing 66386
Tapping thread for fairlead66387
Welding support for hook 66388
Finished 66389
Assembly 66390
Test fitting bar 6639166392
A little trim for bar cut out needed to snug around fairlead and onto the wiring.
A Caribbeana hook might be the go for bracket to hold hook in position.
The reason the paint work looks messy is zinc paint has been brushed on in 2 coats

[Robo]

Took the alloy bar off for the last time, to trim it a tad more and connect wiring to winch.
very happy with the outcome,
now time for a break away for a few days.
will then be connecting the wiring in cab next week.

66427
66428
66429.
Safe ANZAC weekend peoples.

[Robo]

Humm, looking at the wiring on solenoid something could be wrong.

The factory fitted cables to the solenoid ,which are colour coded, are not connected to the numbered post as the manual states.
Yellow is on post number 1, & Red is on post number 3.
But manual clearly shows and written, has them the other way around.
I rang supplier and they said, its ok we test every winch.
but I' not so convinced the solenoid is tested also, every nut and bolt has not been touched ex factory ie-not a mark on em.
Any input welcome, have no experience with this type of solenoid before.
Its a Domin8r 12000lb winch package
66584
66585.

Well I rang em again, hoping to talk with someone else.
This time
Quote
"yes the instructions are clearly wrong it's also covered buy a 5 yr warranty, your covered , fit it as supplied and it will be ok ( don't you guys test winch on a test bench) no we even test the solenoid with the winch" end quote.
I hope this helps others having the same problem.66588

[MudRunnerTD]

I can't see the pic clearly on my phone but it is likely that they are F1 & F2 anyway so they will just be direction and there is no risk to anything.just the switch direction.

[Robo]

Yeah I had that line of thought also.
My fear was connecting in a way it should not be, and I'm multiplying a potential problem by increasing the cable size to 50mm from 35mm square.

Any way of a breaker or something in the install ?,
I have not seen anything available.
I've updated the previous pics

[MudRunnerTD]

This is the solenoid you have there I think and is the same one I have on my GUIV.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/05/57.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk cause AB turned it back on!!

[Robo]

This is the solenoid you have there I think and is the same one I have on my GUIV.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/05/57.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk cause AB turned it back on!!

Yeah it looks the same going by the pic. thanks for that.
I cant seem to click on the pic to enlarge it, to read the fine print.

Gota de-clutter some wiring that has accumulated around the battery first looks crappy at the moment.

[MudRunnerTD]

Here it is again, I tried to get a better source image.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/05/64.jpg

Here is a screen zoom on my iPhone from the original image on the forum.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/05/65.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk cause AB turned it back on!!

[jff45]

Does this help at all?
...
66596

[Robo]

MR to the rescuuuuue

[Robo]

Does this help at all?
...
66596

Yep it helps.
So much so I saved your winch build pics a while ago for ideas for Pat
My Hid boxes are stored in that hole, may locate near brake booster me thinks.
from memory I approximated "your" cable measurements also.
So thanks to you also.

[Robo]

Haven't had much time this week to spend on Pat to re-organise the wiring around the battery.
Made a start today removing a power cable for the UHF's and connecting it to Aux fuse box inside the cab instead.
Then started on a USB and volt meter install.
Removed cig socket & used it's power for meter, very easy job.
And took some power from said fuse box via a switch then onto USB twin socket.
66641.
Only down side should of bought blue volt meter to match USB, but didn't know USB led was blue till I got it hooked up.
@ $3 a pop , ebay, not fusset it will do for now.

up date--The red isn't bad actually, it looks bright in the pic but that's only picture flair, it's not that bad/bright really, and colour match well the usb is only on when needed not live all the time due to switch.

[Robo]

Worth a look at, a bit of fun.
https://youtu.be/jxTvMaJBT3c

[NissanGQ4.2]

Worth a look at, a bit of fun.
https://youtu.be/jxTvMaJBT3c

If only I could afford 1, If only I had somewhere localish I could drive one............looks like fun, would be more fun on a dirt bike though :)

[Robo]

Mothersday getaway.
Thats our van 22ft, 4.2ti is a must have imo.
Bulahdelah hills are no match for this car towing any more since turbo and pump upgrade.
66660.
66661
this van has alot of storage space ,for free camping it's fantastic
66724

[Robo]

Cleaning out garage today, boring, get some chores out of the way before I finish wiring winch.
Found my old GQ lower rear stock arms and a set of new bushes, so out with the old rubber and in with the new.
Had previously fitted some Longer +11mm stronger arms on GQ mav, so they are now going on "Pat" GU in the near future, and old/newbushes arms back on Mav.
Bit of a waste of time but better to use the bushes up than waste away in draw, and Gu still has stock weaker lower anyway.
66987
66988
66989

[Robo]

Pat rolled over 300 000 ks today, and still going strong.
actually better than new, given upgrades made.

[Robo]

The Koni 82 series adjustable shocks on all four corners feel great day to day but have felt a little soft towing our van.
Remember reading on here somewhere and thinking the same" bit soft" for the load.
These are adjustable so I've wound em up 50% ,they do feel much firmer around town & cornering flatter etc.
Hopefully this will be enough to control van without needing to make em to harsh as a daily driver.

Fyi for 82 series Koni shocks.
These shocks have adjustment for rebound up to 100%.
Factory default was 0% ,as in minimum setting.
Turning the body clock wise (c/w) increases.
Counter clock wise (cc/w) decreases setting.
There is only about 2 & half turns available for 0-100%.

"Cant stress enough", be careful finding engage position of key way, and do not force when turning.
It's so you don't damage anything, mine were easy to adjust and yours should be too it's a precaution koni stress.

Maintain shock in near upright position as possible.
Secure in vise etc not to damage ends etc
Extend to full length and using some-thing long n thin remove rubber bump stop.
I used a piece of fencing wire.
67185.
67186.
There is a inbuilt key way in the bottom of the shock, which by compressing shock, now the rubber stops is removed, "carefully as not to damage the key way" engage it.
You can feel/see fingers drop in when key-way lines up.
If yours are set factory default, by turning "gently" cc/w will be nil to very little, before no more turn available.
This is were you stop and can then turn c/w to figure out where you want to set it at % wise.
To disengage key way-- extend shocky an inch or so before you turn shaft again.
Don't forget to replace the bump stop.
It is very simple job, little time consuming if like me, R&R from car to do em.
Koni have instructions & video on their site if ya want.
http://www.koni.com/Cars/Technology/Adjustment-Guides/

[Robo]

Update on the shocks being adjusted firmer.
We found the setting was way to firm in Pat.
I thought we could live with the firmer setting, but it was not a desirable setting for day to day use at all.
The firmer +50% setting removed alot of flex in the suspension and created a sea-saw effect to the car making it like a stiff board, like driving a swb with stiff suspension
And also had the same effect when towing it was very notable that a firmer rebound setting was not working as hoped.
I'm now thinking it's only the 200kg constant load springs need help when under caravan load.
Might look at bags for help when towing, and deflate when not towing.

Shocks have been reset to + 20%, much better daily ride now.

Thinking back over past setups--
Originally we had +200 spring in Mav GQ with bags and ome shocks but as a daily it was to stiff.
Then after changing to lpg tank rated springs (as they were called) keeping the bags & ome shocks we settled for that as ride was much better for our given daily load.
And after changing to koni 82 series shocks, Way way better again, you get what you pay for in a shock I guess.

So that in mind guessing the final setup in Pat GU could be +200kg springs + bags and koni shocks.
Time will tell.

[Makka]

Hey Robo i think the GQ lowers are shorter than GU lowers

[Robo]

Hey Robo i think the GQ lowers are shorter than GU lowers

Thanks for that, I'll compare em when I get time, and not raining.

[Makka]

no worries and good to see another coastie on here i'm at wyoming

[Robo]

no worries and good to see another coastie on here i'm at wyoming

Wyoming my old stomping grounds.
Grew up in Narara.
The good old days you could walk the streets at night without a worry.
Many a fri,sat night walk hick stagger home from Gosford leagues or bowling club 5k to home and never a problem.
Don't think I'd try it now!

[Makka]

It's not to bad robo I got the bronks across the road had no real issues except one night a scumbag was picking on 3 12 year olds they ran onto my veranda I let them in and had a deep and meaningful discussion with him.... He told me I better watch out he just got out of jail...... I told him I'm not twelve and not scared of him .... He walked


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Robo]

Decided to spoil Pat with better radiator and braided lines.
More like preventative maintenance coming up to summer hols and camping time.

Brake safe being a sponsor here came to the rescue.
69135.
The brakes feel more responsive now & bit firmer pedal.
I'm not over the moon about it,that said the calipers could use an overhaul as I doubt they have ever been apart.
Weighing up to do calipers & new rotors, or complete new gear by replacing with tb48 stuff, will see.

And Richard at ARE supplied the Radiator.
well that's gotta be better than the piece that was in there lol.
it holds approx 3.5 to 4 lts more coolant.
ensure things stay in the green and I don't have to be gazing at temp gauge as much
69136.

Must say I was looked after very well by both shops.
questions were answered and they followed up letting me know dispatch arrival times etc.

[Robo]

Giving the viscus hub a service.
Completely drain and cleaned out old oil.
Recon 50 mls is more like what came out, so in with near 3 bottles of 08816-10001.

It's now a bit harder to turn by hand than it was before.
I recon it now a little louder cruising so presume bit more air being worked by fan.
Ambient air temp to cool to tell if its made any difference but next time vans hooked up will be the real test.

[MudRunnerTD]

Giving the viscus hub a service.
Completely drain and cleaned out old oil.
Recon 50 mls is more like what came out, so in with near 3 bottles of 08816-10001.

It's now a bit harder to turn by hand than it was before.
I recon it now a little louder cruising so presume bit more air being worked by fan.
Ambient air temp to cool to tell if its made any difference but next time vans hooked up will be the real test.

Is that the Toyota part number Robo?

[Robo]

Is that the Toyota part number Robo?

Didn't get a notification of your post/question, hence the delay to reply sorry mate.

YES it is gen toyo p/No

[Robo]

New tridant hiflow tt2028-170 thermostat fitted.
If you turn stat upside down and look inside the sensor you'll see 77degC stamped .
It's the one listed in spare parts books as the correct one for mine as the alternative to the std one, and not a fudge
Things are looking good n stable with normal driving.
Now for a towing test.

[MudRunnerTD]

New tridant hiflow tt2028-170 thermostat fitted.
If you turn stat upside down and look inside the sensor you'll see 77degC stamped .
It's the one listed in spare parts books as the correct one for mine as the alternative to the std one, and not a fudge
Things are looking good n stable with normal driving.
Now for a towing test.

What is hiflow about it? Interested to see a pic. Im fitting a new water pump, coolan, fan and radiator on teh weekend. Not planning on teh thermostat but it seems a no brainer.....

[mudski]

What is hiflow about it? Interested to see a pic. Im fitting a new water pump, coolan, fan and radiator on teh weekend. Not planning on teh thermostat but it seems a no brainer.....
On the TDs Darren that bypass flap on the bottom of the stat lifts up higher than an OEM hence letting more water to flow quicker. In a nutshell.

Sent from my GT-N7105T using Tapatalk

[jff45]

Tridon not Tridant..
This is what I'm using in my conversion. Temps in normal use stay around 77-79..
...
70095

[Robo]

Mate the thermostat is just about the same to the std one apart from, the (copper looking) sensor is a slimmer profile thus allowing more water to flow past it into the radiator.
The lower bypass valve is identical looking to std one (length, diameter & spring) apart from the obvious it's now slimmer to fit inside the new hiflow upper valve.

EG lets say the sensor body (the moving copper bit) in the middle of thermostat chassie is a 20 cent piece wide.
but the new sensor is now a 10 cent piece.
in turn this opens up the hole allowing more flow.

Wish I took a pic when I did it, but sorry I didn't have any time to spare then.

look at this it's not a TD hiflow but the smaller 1 is the std TD job which I just removed.
the other is a TB hiflow physically larger, but for something to look at for comparison sake to just get the Idea of std to hiflow.
letf= std, right= hiflow.
70112
cheers

[Robo]

Tridon not Tridant..
This is what I'm using in my conversion. Temps in normal use stay around 77-79..
...
70095

Sorry buddy, working night shift 20+yrs & days at home etc as you do will do that sorta thing to ya.
ya make a mistake here n there.
lucky for me its only a name wrong lol.
:cheers:

[nissannewby]

On the TDs Darren that bypass flap on the bottom of the stat lifts up higher than an OEM hence letting more water to flow quicker. In a nutshell.

Sent from my GT-N7105T using Tapatalk

Not quite. The bypass part of the thermostat allows water to only flow through the engine until the temperature reaches a certain point. As the temperature rises this closes the bypass port in the thermostat housing thus allowing all the flow to go through the radiator and maintaining the temperature. The bypass port allows the engine to ge to operating temperature quicker as everyone knows most wear occurs when the engine is cold.

[Robo]

Last night.
Removed the main tank fuel sender & bent the breather pipe upward to increase the tank capacity.
Easiest mod I've ever done.
Cut new rubber mat for cargo area.
Removed cargo area single seats.
Rotated tyres.
Greased all joints.
All filters, + engine oil.
Spaced rear spare tyre hanger off the back door about 5mm, make cleaning easier.


Busy Busy Chrissy Hols 3 weeks away, you beauty.

[Robo]

I think I wrote some time back, Gu is fitted with a roof console.
I thought it was aftermarket, but according to a vin model search its was fitted as standard.
Guess that's part of the limited edition bit as per the badge on rear door.

Replaced the R/H front axle spindle this arvo.
It looked suss when I did the bearings some time back, been slack had it sitting on the shelf for ages.

[Robo]

"Tridon" hi flow thermostat update.

Caravan 2.5t on, Held speed at 90 Kph 4th gear M1 Ourimbah hill.
Which is a about 2.5k climb, loaded & you'll know about it and be down shifting, a descent hill to gauge things off.
held speed well, enough right boot only to hold speed @ 90k.
Outside temp was about 27c

Temp climbed to 105 C fairly quickly and settled there.
It took a little while to recover on the flat cruising again in 5th.

Humm----more stable than a std thermostat,
rose a bit slower but not that much slower, think it would give you a bit more confidence.
Biggest improvement (not that big) was cruising.

Cruising 5th gear 100 Kph on the flat sat about 82-93 C depending on grade.
OEM cluster gauge sat in the middle "the whole time" didn't realy move.
forgot to look at pyro (dumb ass) watching time also had to start work, went out of way for the test.

Going to either remove the last 2 lower outer bars on bull bar to open up air flow more & or spotties.
spots & winch have reduced air flow (derr) way more than I like, always learning.
may sound fussy, want a keeper and maintain good travel times.
As ya can see van its big compared to car and provides alot of wind resistance over n above the 2.5t load.
70239
70240.
just want the best out come possible.
yeah yeah lift the boot, last resort.

[Robo]

Main tank capacity increased around 16 Lt.
Could get a bit more if it's bent further.
Only bent breather up about half the available amount.

Fuel light on, needle touching right edge of E mark, so some fuel left, say 10L.
It took 86L to fill it chockers.
That's a estimated 96L capacity now.

[Robo]

I feel naked now without lights!!
And lower slots opened up.
70322

[Robo]

Finally got around to finishing the winch cables off and position relay.
7032370324.
Will create a brief thread, How to fit larger battery, winch cables into terminal ends.
as it's been my experience getting the multi strand large gable to fit into the ends is very difficult,
this way works a treat and takes no time to do it.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?39052-How-to-fit-large-battery-winch-cables-into-crimp-ends

[Robo]

Large rear barn door was not locking in the top catch.
After a lot of adjusting the horizontal guide and jamb catch etc.
Then finally removing the catch cover from door itself to see it sticking in the unlocked position .
Good spray of dry lube and sweet again top catch now locking as the nissan gods intended.

believe this may be a common issue.
tell tale for mine was a squeak in the top latch.

[Robo]

Removed volt meter from oem cig lighter hole, replaced with new usbx2 socket that includes a volt meter built in.
Also added 2x cig plugs beside that.
All switched & fused individually.

= 2x 1.0 amp usb.
2x 2.1 amp usb.
2x 12v sockets.

[Robo]

Rear large barn door had a noise/squeak in the tension arm slide.
Not the locking arm on the bottom of door.

The arm slips through the middle of a small rectangular block housed inside the door cavity.
Within the box are opposing springs with a nylon block and a roller bearing each side of the arm.
The spring & bearings apply pressure to the arm to slow door movement etc.

I disassembled it to find----
Trouble is the bearing is only mild steel, in-turn it can stop turning and then flat spot against the arm.
The flat spot grabs on the arm when you open/close the door creating squeak/chattery noise.

Disassemble, replace bearing with a offcut from a tensile bolt shaft.
Clean, re-grease, reassemble, Good to go , no more squeak.

In hindsight next bearings you replace from another job keep some needles you never know when ya might need 1.

Bearing is 7mm dia x 16 mm long.

[Robo]

Did a testing the weekend towing the outlaws much smaller/full height 2 ton 18ft van.
Same test as before up ourimbah hill sitting on 90kph.
outside temp was about 27 again so equal test.
Good new temps were much more moderate 85-90 Deg C.
verdict was simply me pushing to hard with much larger/heavier load in the past.
cruising along was 82-85 C depant on grade so again all good.