ZD30 DI Turbo EGT

[BillsGU]

Can anyone tell me what temperature THEIR pyro indicates when cruising at 110 kmh on a flat section of freeway for a period of time (say 5 minutes)? I have looked at many sites and asked many "experts" and have not had the same answer twice.

Mine sits just over 400 C and increases slightly when going up slight hills and drops when going down hill.

What does YOURS indicate?

[threedogs]

I have just fitted the NADS, before it would sit on 420 to530 when pushed and towing. now doesn't go over 220 deg C no matter how I drive it. highly recommend NADS. all temps are in C

[BillsGU]

I have just fitted the NADS, before it would sit on 420 to530 when pushed and towing. now doesn't go over 250 no matter how I drive it. highly recommend NADS. all temps are in C

Is this at 110 kmh? Also, at that speed and temp, what is your boost?

[threedogs]

Have only just fitted it and still adjusting, dont know if my truck is a freak but temp at 110kph is 200 deg C , pushed it doesn't move. Very happy with that, boost is 10 psi, fitting a needle valve next week as well. Before NADS fitted temp was420-530 deg C, EGR blocked as well, X2 HIGHLY recommend NADS

[Rumcajs]

Mine sits around 230 - 320° depending on the wind/load/ambient temperature, typically around 290° . Boost around 10-13 psi again subject to wind/load/temp. Climbing hills at that speed can go up to 450°+ so I don't like to push it that much I normally back off at 500°
I don't have it stock anymore.
Cheers

[threedogs]

Re checked as plumbing was wrong ,@110 it sits on 220C- 250C on flat run no load 10 psi and goes up if pushed hard 450C-500C tops, and settles back quickly

[BillsGU]

Mine sits around 230 - 320° depending on the wind/load/ambient temperature, typically around 290° . Boost around 10-13 psi again subject to wind/load/temp. Climbing hills at that speed can go up to 450°+ so I don't like to push it that much I normally back off at 500°
I don't have it stock anymore.
Cheers

OK - thanks guys for your input. Good to compare what others are getting.

[BearGUST]

Mine sits at about 250deg while cruising at 110km/h, thats at about 5psi. It will rise to 400-450deg fairly quickly with a decent hill.
My probe is in the engine pipe, about 50-75mm from the flange.

[BillsGU]

Mine sits at about 250deg while cruising at 110km/h, thats at about 5psi. It will rise to 400-450deg fairly quickly with a decent hill.
My probe is in the engine pipe, about 50-75mm from the flange.

Thanks Bear.

[fat paddy]

I have been getting very similar results. I have just replaced the head with a european non-genuine number which when compared to the original was much better engineered and about 50% heavier. The old one perforated.
I find that the temp flies up quicker now, is that a tuning problem? Can it be sorted?After the change over I noticed a leak on the induction side when boost pasted 10 lb, it was due to a bolt that had dropped out of the EGR valve, ie I didn't do it up tight enough. Intercooler had the smallest of leaks which I fixed from the inside by cleaning the surface to buggery and applying a very small amout of silicon over the crack. BTW if you want to test for a leaking intercooler get a bicycle tube and cut it on the oppostie side from the valve. Place to two open ends over the inlet and outlet of the intercooler and clamp. Inflate to desired pressure and listen for a leak. Saves you having to hastle the radiator bloke and your car is off the road for 10 minutes as opposed to all day.

[BillsGU]

BTW if you want to test for a leaking intercooler get a bicycle tube and cut it on the oppostie side from the valve. Place to two open ends over the inlet and outlet of the intercooler and clamp. Inflate to desired pressure and listen for a leak. Saves you having to hastle the radiator bloke and your car is off the road for 10 minutes as opposed to all day.

MATE!!! That is a good idea. Thanks for that.

BTW - do you know why the head perforated?

[boots]

Another method for checking intercooler ( IC ) . Remove IC from 4b , cling wrap and duct tape inlet + outlet . Run the bath with a bit of water or a big bucket - place IC in - any bubbles its time to repair or replace . cheers .

[BillsGU]

Another method for checking intercooler ( IC ) . Remove IC from 4b , cling wrap and duct tape inlet + outlet . Run the bath with a bit of water or a big bucket - place IC in - any bubbles its time to repair or replace . cheers .

Great Boots !! Keep them comming.

[boots]

My apologies for getting off topic Bill and others . post question was for EGT temps / boost readings at speed . Sorry .

[BillsGU]

My apologies for getting off topic Bill and others . post question was for EGT temps / boost readings at speed . Sorry .

No problem - it's all good info and helps everyone to understand their vehicles more.

[Sir Roofy]

Another method for checking intercooler ( IC ) . Remove IC from 4b , cling wrap and duct tape inlet + outlet . Run the bath with a bit of water or a big bucket - place IC in - any bubbles its time to repair or replace . cheers .

just like checking a tube for a leak thanks boots

[Sir Roofy]

Mine sits at about 250deg while cruising at 110km/h, thats at about 5psi. It will rise to 400-450deg fairly quickly with a decent hill.
My probe is in the engine pipe, about 50-75mm from the flange.

increace your boost to ten psi or more and temps wont rise so quickly

[Sir Roofy]

with the NADS fitted my temps run at 220c at 110ks to 120ks flat running for 5,6ks till i hit a slight hill hill then they rise to 300c 350c depending on length
of run
my boost sits between 8 and 10 psi when cruising rising to 12 under load and this is with a standard IC with welded ends

[BillsGU]

with the NADS fitted my temps run at 220c at 110ks to 120ks flat running for 5,6ks till i hit a slight hill hill then they rise to 300c 350c depending on length
of run
my boost sits between 8 and 10 psi when cruising rising to 12 under load and this is with a standard IC with welded ends

Thanks Roofy. This is the sort of info I am after. I have ordered a valve from the US and when it arrives I will let you all know the difference after installation.

[Sir Roofy]

Thanks Roofy. This is the sort of info I am after. I have ordered a valve from the US and when it arrives I will let you all know the difference after installation.

When you install it mate along with the catch can you will notice straight away
how much more how free the motor runs

[fat paddy]

BTW - do you know why the head perforated?

Due to the complexity of the head it is made in two parts and pressed together. The seam is very obvious when the head is off the motor. The engineering workshop that built the new head for me described the original Nissan head as a piece of $h>t and that they had seen their share of them. It was replaced with an aftermarket AMC head. The seam around one of the inlet ports for #4 perforated letting coolant into #4 changing the description of the motor from internal combustion diesel to diesel heated steam engine.

[BillsGU]

I have solved one part of the puzzle. I found a small split in a vacuum hose. After the hose was replaced the boost is now a lot more responsive to throttle changes. The Dawes valve has arrived so when I get a minute I'll install it and let you know.

[cairnsGU]

My egt's usually sit at 100 km/h at around 400-450

[BillsGU]

My egt's usually sit at 100 km/h at around 400-450

Thanks for the info - thats about the same as mine. It does increase when going up hill though.

[BillsGU]

The Dawes valve is now installed and adjusted and I now see the difference with my own eyes. The EGT is now 100 - 150 degree cooler at 110 kph on the freeway. I hooked the off road caravan behind the Patrol and attacked the steepest hill in town. The EGT maxed out at 500 - which is fantastic. The throttle response is even better than before and the boost sits where I expect it to sit. What is the point of a turbo if it rarely gives any boost (as per the original set up)?

I am now waiting for the plate I ordered from Ferret to finalise my set up.

One thing I do wonder about - if it is so easy to get a ZD30 enging running so well and doing it by running the engine at safer temps than original - why doesn't Nissan do the same? What have I done that can cause problems / issues at a later date?

[threedogs]

Hi Bill its to do with Euro emissions, now with all the problems I'm having with mine I decided to UN BLOCK the EGR.
Plumbed it as per drawing in archive so ECU still controls boost.
4x4 drives heaps better, no over boost issues, will need to adjust dawes to get boost up a bit.
10psi max at the moment, EGTs get up to 420deg C but settle back.
Still not happy. but at least it's drivable now

[Sir Roofy]

hi bill its to do with euro emissions, now with all the problems i'm having with mine i decided to un block the egr.
Plumbed it as per drawing in archive so ecu still controls boost.
4x4 drives heaps better, no over boost issues, will need to adjust dawes to get boost up a bit.
10psi max at the moment, egts get up to 420deg c but settle back.
Still not happy. But at least it's drivable now

yo john
i dont understand why your having so much trouble
if you unblock the egr wont you over a period of time
fill it up again with oil and soot and slowly
choke it to death creating more problems
and killing it off alltogether

i wouldnt dare do that to mine
cheers roofy

[BillsGU]

Just got home from a 5000K four week trip that included the Blue Mountains (Newnes), North Western NSW, South Western and Central Queensland, Brisbane and then back to Wodonga via the New England and the Newel Highway. I towed a 2.5 ton off road caravan the entire way.

I was VERY impressed with the performance and fuel economy of the Patrol after all of these mods. The EGT only went above 550 once and that was on a long, long up hill climb near Tenterfield. But I watched the gauge and backed off a bit and the temp went down again.

This was totally different to how the Patrol functioned before the mods. No power, low boost, high EGTs and high fuel consumption.

The hassle of doing the mods was sure worth while to me. At this stage I have not had one negative effect - all VERY positive.

[threedogs]

Thats great to hear BillsGU, certainly a great mod for any Z30 owner,
nothing better than driving a 4x4 knowing you can see whats going on
inside your motor, and can adjust driving style to suit.
Gotta love NADS What boost do you have at 100k ??

[Sir Roofy]

Good to hear mate we did a simular trip on the way back from qld meet
towing our camper egts never went past 400 on up runs except that one long run
near tenterfield it just topped 500 near the top dropped back another gear and temps came down
down the other side and back to normal 210-300
as john says nothing better than the n.a.d.s

[BillsGU]

What boost do you have at 100k ??

5 psi most of the time - but it increases to around 10 when going up hill or into high winds. When towing it sits on just over 10 at that speed on the freeway. Most of the trip I sat between 85 and 90 kph though.

[BillsGU]

Good to hear mate we did a simular trip on the way back from qld meet
towing our camper egts never went past 400 on up runs except that one long run
near tenterfield it just topped 500 near the top dropped back another gear and temps came down
down the other side and back to normal 210-300
as john says nothing better than the n.a.d.s

Too true roofy. I must say that I have a lot more confidence in the Patrol now. It has gone through the hoops and not missed a beat. We did over 550 K of very ordinary outback dirt roads, towing the whole way, and both the Patrol and the off road van performed perfectly.

[threedogs]

At 100 kph you should have at least 10 psi boost, any lower may cause you higher EGTs.

[Sir Roofy]

Thats about right tds on a flat run at 100ks but a slight
variation of the road would see you getting 11or 12 psi

[threedogs]

Spot on really, got to be happy with that then,