Bloody Patrol!

[GQPorkroll]

Got my truck back on Thurs, it's been at the auto lecs as a side project for him, doing my AC and was going to fit my new ignition and do my HID's etc but he was snowed under and only got the AC done, so as my new bullbar arrived and my roof basket and new rear doors were here, I took her home to do some work myself and take it back when I was done.

Anyway, I thought I'd chase my ignition fault. Has an early crane cams fireball conversion using points coil and ballast resistor. It started when I fitted new plugs and leads.

Symptom is occasionally a flat spot when under heavy acceleration (I have to lift off and then gently put my foot down, sometimes 2/3 times) and when driving the tacho will bounce, or go straight to 0 and then back to normal position (I assume the motor cuts out then refires as its in gear running) its never happened to me idling but noticed today it was a bit sensitive when taking off, almost like it was flooding, but it's not.

So first I ran a wire from the battery to the coil to make sure it was getting power. Problem still occurred.

Changed coil. Still occurred.
Made sure all connections and earths were good and sprayed with contact cleaner and inox. Still occurred.

Went driving tonight and removed key as I heard that a dicky ignition barrel with heavy keys etc can cause the contacts to move from on to off on bumpy roads. Still occurred. Well, it actually backfired and blew the arse out of the muffler. Nice work.

Anyway I'm a bit pissed off now. I should have left it at the auto lecs but I needed to get my parts on as I had nowhere to keep them, but I should have been patient and let him fit the new ignition kit and find the problem.

I've heard that the gas solenoid can cause this problem, it appears ok, but I wil rewire it and double check all connectors again. I'll also throw on a new ballast resistor for the heck of it.

Is there anything I'm missing? I know it's a common fault but has oodles of different answers. Anyone found something that's definite. There are no kill switches, alarms, or external gauges/tachos fitted and the cb/stereo use either existing wiring or the auxiliary battery so nothing hacked into.

[threedogs]

Didn't the GQ have a rotor button conversion?
I'm sure thet needed a taller one or something like that.
Maybe check with Patrolapart? Thats all I can think of at the moment

[GQPorkroll]

Yes I have the extended rotor button fitted and a new dizzy cap. I'm almost certain it must be wiring related as it is very intermittent, so i'll do some chasing.

[nissannewby]

TPS? These can fault causing above symptons

[threedogs]

Maybe an earth,but sounds like a loose connection some where, better get out the old test light a few beers and move some wiring with test light on , good luck, ever thought about electronic ignition for it, set and forget, is it dual fuel or only with gas?? got a thought

[GQPorkroll]

It has electronic ignition. It is dual fuel, symptoms happen on petrol and gas.

[threedogs]

Run it at night in your shed or whatever lift the bonnet and see if it looks like the Queen Mary,[ sparks ] under throttle it might be shorting as volts build, I thought it was your gas and just running lean, Carbies dry out and get flat spots if you dont use petrol much.

[the ferret]

If the coolant level is at all low in the radiator, this can cause the gas to freeze and promote the problem you describe.
Cheers, the ferret.

[threedogs]

But the problem happens on gas and petrol

[GQPorkroll]

Ok so today after googling I removed the radio suppressor and maybe it was just me, but it seemed a little better.

Tomorrow I will be replacing the ballast (been in the car 3 weeks but have been putting it off).

Next, there is a gas relay (I think) on the firewall. It has coil positive and negative, gas switch in and gas valve out. I'll remove that and the wiring for it tomorrow and have a test drive. If it fixes it, I will leave it off all together and fit the new ignition system and them have a gas workshop refit a new one and do a gas tune.

Hopefully I'm getting close. It's bloody pissing me off doing so much searching and testing checking and fiddling with no result.

[GQPorkroll]

Ok I think I'm good now.

I removed the wiring going to the LPG safety switch and went for a 20km drive with no drama at all. I'm only running fuel at the moment so it's not an issue. I'll have the new ignition fitted and the go to a LPG workshop and have a new safety switch fitted and have a full carb service done and it's good to go.

Pretty happy now. At least I won't blow this new exhaust out.