A Guide on installing your own remote central locking in under 20 minutes

[mudski]

Note this is for replacing the defunked genuine Ni$$san unit with a Warlock KG400 kit.
This was all done on my 2001 GUII, 3.0ltr. Different models and engines may differ.

All was done directly where the original wireless remote controller sits. Under the LHS of the dash, to the right of the glove box.
No need to run any other wire to anywhere else. Also the locks are positive triggered too. The kit I bought, and assuming all are like this, has the wiring for both positive and negative triggers.
So the coloured wires to look out for are :


Indicator output : Green/ Red
Indicator output : Green / Yellow
12V feed : White / Red (Thicker wire than the others)
Door Lock output : Light Blue (Thicker wire than the others)
Door Unlock output : Light Blue / Red (Thicker wire than the others)

The kit you buy will have instructions telling you what their wires are for so that part is real easy. It was working it out on the truck end, but I got it and it works a treat.
So all can be done and installed in the one spot and after I worked out the wiring, you could do this in under 20minutes, easy.
Now I just have to figure out how to learn the spare remote. The instructions I have are in Klingon I reckon.
Hope this helps anyone.
All I want to do now is work out what I can use the trunk release button for. Remote switching flood lamps maybe?

[the godfather]

Sweet, mine is munted so I will be needing to change it soon.....after September that is. What brand did you get and where from?

[mudski]

I bought my kit from JB Hi-Fi. Was $95 but the Jaycar kits looked rubbish and I didn't like the remotes they had. I saw a few on Ebay but I wanted to get one local and straight away. I have a bad habit of not waiting for things when I decide I want them...
But seriously it was real easy to do. I just used the Wire taps : http://www.narva.com.au/products/browse/joinerswire-taps to tap into the line.
Once I do the extra glove box mod I will solder the wires in. It was a little tight up there to get my iron in....

[the godfather]

Sweet. My Bro is a JB Manager. I will go visit him soon. Should stay away from wire taps, they tend to catch fire in my experience. I think I will solder them straight up.

[mudski]

It was the Warlock KG400 it got too. And yeah the wire taps will be replaced by soldering. I will do this when I do the glove box mod as I'll have everything out then so more room.

[Pukie83]

i own an 08 dx no keyless standard but accutors are there will the wiring be there?

[mudski]

You will have to confirm will other on this one. Because if you don't already have keyless the way I did it you can't. As I basically removed the ni$$an control module and wired in the after market one. BUT. You may have the wiring going up under the dash already there for it. As I do notice, well on my ST atleast that there is plugs all over the car that are unused. Like for cruise control or added extra's one would get in a top model. The wiring is the same for all they just don't plug the goodies into it.
Might be worth checking out.

[Pukie83]

thanks! thought it should be there! atleast i know where to look for it?

[Pukie83]

the wiring is there but some of the wires are different colour (the output wires)

[mudski]

Indicator output you mean? If so, use a test test to find which wire is for left and right indicators. Or if its the door lock outputs, you should, I mean should be able to still use a test test on each wire, lock the door and fire the wire that way?? I don't know if you can feed it 12v and see if it locks as you might hit the wrong wire and do damage...
I am just pulling at strings here now as the wires are different colour. Can't see why they would be though...

[cossy]

Just picked one up JBs this weekend $69.00 will have a go Will try to add photos thanks mudski

[beaST_01-dell]

Interesting thread!!!! I await patiently for more info..... :-)

[mudski]

What info do you need mate?



I tapped that app...

[cossy]

Ok Its all done will add photos soon. Thanks mudski works fine. question did you remove the old plug?

[rodneyb81]

Looking for a little assistance I thought I followed all the instructions but it not working so I am scratching my head....

This is a warlock kg800

Photos for alarm and my wiring as it is currently...298142981529816

Any assistance would be appreciated

Rodney

[mudski]

Hmm, same but different to the KG400 model I have. Have you tried the other trigger wires for the lock/unlock? By memory there is positive and negative activation wires to chose from in the Warlock kit. You may have the wrong set of trigger wires???

[meh]

I know this is an old thread but wanted to say thanks to mudski and just add something extra.
I installed my alarm/central locking yesterday and on the same clip as described above I needed to wire in the 12v ignition accessory and dome lighting to stop the auto lock after 30 seconds if a door wasnt opened or car started.

The small plain blue wire is the 12v accessory and the red with black stripe is the door light switch wire (which is negatively switched).

I was unlucky enough to not have an actuator in the drivers door so had to wire one in and set it up as (+/-)

Happy to answer any other questions people have with installation of an alarm

[Markwr400426]

Thanks to everyone that's made a contribution here. First post, so be kind please. I've run into a bit of an issue with the keyless remotes too, and in searching the web found this thread. I bought a Warlock KG-400 ($78.00 at JB HiFi), and I'm now doing the wiring. The keyless remote module was pretty easy to find with your instructions. Under the dash above the glove box. Remove the glove box and it's pretty easy to see. (IMG_1250). I found the wiring block, and the wiring codes match what was explained on here. The trouble is we're multiple choice on the Warlock side (IMG_002a). From what I can work out, the wiring is:
Patrol Indicator output : Green/ Red = Warlock brown
Patrol Indicator output : Green / Yellow = Warlock brown (there are two browns)
Patrol 12V feed : White / Red (Thicker wire than the others) = Warlock Red
Patrol Door Lock output : Light Blue (Thicker wire than the others) = Warlock (Multiple choice)
Patrol Door Unlock output : Light Blue / Red (Thicker wire than the others) = Warlock (Multiple choice)
I'll earth the Warlock Black to be sure

So the questions are:

Do we take the Patrol indicator outputs to each of the Warlock browns?
How do we wire the multiple choices?

Thanks in advance
Mark

[meh]

Hi Mark
Doesnt matter which brown goes to which as you will have all indicators going at the same time anyway so one brown to each indicator wire
With your door unlocks you will need positive triggers so your wiring should be
Orange&orange/black not connected
Yellow&yellow/black connect to 12V+
White Lock connect to Thick blue
White/black unlock connect to thick blue/red

[Markwr400426]

Thank you very much, I'll wire it now.
Mark

[Markwr400426]

OK Wired as above. How do we now get the remotes to work. There's three buttons on the remote. How do we get it the remotes and the main unit talking to each other? I've got power in the remotes (coloured LED's flash). Thanks again in advance.
Mark

[meh]

there should be a learning button on the receiver module

[mudski]

They should work out of the box. Mine did. But there is a learn button on teh module I think. If nothing happens when you press the button, maybe you have it wired incorrectly. Maybe.

[Markwr400426]

Sorry. I've been a way a bit, and just getting back to this. Looks like I've got to look at the wiring again. I found what should be the learning button on the module. The wiring may be different, even though the wiring colours appeared to be right. Mine's a 2005 4.8 petrol on gas.
Mark

[Markwr400426]

OK. All working now. The wiring for a 2005 4.8 litre Patrol is as above, plus the Orange and Orange/Black go to ground.
Mark

[rusty_nail]

thanks for this mark, ill be having a go later today!!! cheers for all the info!

[Shazlic]

Bit of a thread dig here but when replacing the module did you remove the old unit completely or still need some of the wires connected to that particular unit? Hopefully attempting it this weekend

[rusty_nail]

i ditched mine completely mate, havent looked back! sooooo much better!

[Shazlic]

About to start this but wanting to test that these wires are getting the signals needed. Would a test light on the lock and unlock signal wires as I lock/unlock the car with key show positive power through it?

[Shazlic]

Couldn't get the SCA kit to work, luckily I tested it before cutting into it's loom so returned it and got a 9500 winch instead

[rusty_nail]

Couldn't get the SCA kit to work, luckily I tested it before cutting into it's loom so returned it and got a 9500 winch instead

i wasted some $$$ on a jaycar job before i went to jbhifi like mudski suggested in the first place and bought him one lol. do yourself a favour and get one of thsoe instead.

[mudski]

Yep the Warlock kit is great value. I've have had it in there maybe two years? Or roughly when i made this thread, and the remote still works.

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[Robo]

Having a little trouble trying to fit steel mate alarm into 2002 gu.
My oem remote system was working fine but wanting to add the alarm.
And utilize the existing wiring for the central lock side of things.

going buy the wires feeding to oem central lock remote unit top right behind glove box, colours are the same as previously described.
oem plug
white = 12v pos,
2xgreen =2x indicators,
2xblue = 2xactuators.

steelmate
2x yellow =12v pos
2x brown = indicators
white and white/black = actuators.
Iv'e hooked up for pos actuators and not the neg ones.
obviously power & earth are connected.

The drivers door is a master right?
and the oem remote plug is connected to it, why would't it be!

press new remote lock/unlock and blinkers flash= working.
test light is showing white wires are active BUT
the lock/unlock actuators wont activate in either direction.
Nothing is happening!
put the oem remote back in, works just fine.
think I have a dud steel mate alarm.
thankfully I hadn't hook up all the other functions for the alarm, ignition cut etc as it appears that may of been a waste of time.
any one have any ideas?????

[mudski]

The drivers door is the master....
As for the trigger wires. Try the neg triggers. It might be different for your model car and kit.

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[Stropp]

I have a warlock ac100 system but with just one central popper, the young bloke got it on special for $28 😳 it's been in for a while and now it's stopped working so I will change it out for a new one as I have three spares. The unit tries to move and clicks but won't open so I will change it so hopefully it works.

[Robo]

The drivers door is the master....
As for the trigger wires. Try the neg triggers. It might be different for your model car and kit.

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I'll check the output of oem unit asap.
steel mate kit can be either pos or neg.

was just going by pos being the way things were, see soon.

[shaun100]

Hi All,

Bit of a thread dig I know but Im about to embark on same project. I have pictures below of my alarm wiring, and they way I THINK I should wire it. My questions are:

Does the wiring diagram look ok?
Should there be an earth for the door lock actuators?

Thanks in advance.

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g245/shaunv8/IMG_3014.jpg (http://s58.photobucket.com/user/shaunv8/media/IMG_3014.jpg.html)
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g245/shaunv8/IMG_3015.jpg (http://s58.photobucket.com/user/shaunv8/media/IMG_3015.jpg.html)
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g245/shaunv8/IMG_3017.jpg (http://s58.photobucket.com/user/shaunv8/media/IMG_3017.jpg.html)

[mudski]

Looks fine to me. Hard to tell on my phone though.

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[shaun100]

Thanks....................

[jay see]

Hi All,

Bit of a thread dig I know but Im about to embark on same project. I have pictures below of my alarm wiring, and they way I THINK I should wire it. My questions are:

Does the wiring diagram look ok?
Should there be an earth for the door lock actuators?

Thanks in advance.

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g245/shaunv8/IMG_3014.jpg (http://s58.photobucket.com/user/shaunv8/media/IMG_3014.jpg.html)
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g245/shaunv8/IMG_3015.jpg (http://s58.photobucket.com/user/shaunv8/media/IMG_3015.jpg.html)
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g245/shaunv8/IMG_3017.jpg (http://s58.photobucket.com/user/shaunv8/media/IMG_3017.jpg.html)

What kind of unit are you using. I really need to pull my finger out and do this...

[shaun100]

ebay job mate "crimefighter brand". I really only wanted something to replace central locking with an audible alert. I wont be using most of the features of this, but for $40, cant go wrong LOL.

I just hope the wiring I have above is correct...

[mudski]

If its not correct if wont work.. Looking at the door lock/unlock wires it seems you have got it right. The 12v feed wire you have it on Yellow. I would say it goes to the red. And not to use the relay. The relay is for the shock sensors etc etc so when you turn the ignition off it activate the relay to disable the shock sensor. The indicators are correct.

[shaun100]

well I have tried and isnt working.....Wired as above, but with red wire as posative instead of yellow (originally a typo).

I can see the wire on the central locking getting a positive feed when locking, but it aint locking the door.....

Any suggestions...PLEASE??

Thanks

[shaun100]

looking through other threads, should the original plug that was to the factory keyless entry be earthed via black wire????

[mudski]

looking through other threads, should the original plug that was to the factory keyless entry be earthed via black wire????
Worth a try I suppose.??

[shaun100]

Got it sorted. There were a couple of wires on alarm central locking that needed to be earthed. Now another problem. Theres a blue wire on alarm that needs a negative signal from the door. I pulled out the door switch and they are positive?? The alarm wants to rearm 20 or so seconds after I unlock and open the door, and Im guessing its because its not getting the neg signal from door light. Any suggestions guys? Thanks

[mudski]

Hmm sorry. Im out on this part. Hopefully one of the guru's will pop their head in. Yendor the evil twin . That might grab their attention.

[Yendor]

Got it sorted. There were a couple of wires on alarm central locking that needed to be earthed. Now another problem. Theres a blue wire on alarm that needs a negative signal from the door. I pulled out the door switch and they are positive?? The alarm wants to rearm 20 or so seconds after I unlock and open the door, and Im guessing its because its not getting the neg signal from door light. Any suggestions guys? Thanks

The interior door light switches are negative switched. Try opening and closing one of the other doors when checking the drivers door switch.

[mudski]

Thanks Rodney...
What rims you have too mate? Sorta look like the Dick Cepek DC2's. Been contemplating splashing out on some.

[Yendor]

Thanks Rodney...
What rims you have too mate? Sorta look like the Dick Cepek DC2's. Been contemplating splashing out on some.

Wasp

http://www.alliedwheels.com.au/products/wasp-black-machined/

[BillsGU]

I know it's an old thread - but it is still relevant. Finally got sick of the crappy Nissan remote entry system which has worked off and on (mainly off) for some time now. Purchased a Jaycar Steelmate remote entry module ($49.95) and with some of the information available here wired the new module into the Patrol in a couple of hours.

The new module fits inside the original Nissan case and fits back into the original position under the dash. I cut the connector off the PC board, soldered it into the new loom and the new module plugs into the original Nissan harness.

Now it works first time every time.

Should have done it ages ago.

[jay see]

I know it's an old thread - but it is still relevant. Finally got sick of the crappy Nissan remote entry system which has worked off and on (mainly off) for some time now. Purchased a Jaycar Steelmate remote entry module ($49.95) an with some of the information avaiable here wired the new module into the Patrol in a couple of hours.

The new module fits inside the original Nissan case and fits back into the original position under the dash. I cut the connector off the PC board, soldered it into the new loom and the new module plugs into the original Nissan harness.

Now it works first time every time.

Should have done it ages ago.Yep something that I still need to do..

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[Hocks]

Note this is for replacing the defunked genuine Ni$$san unit with a Warlock KG400 kit.
This was all done on my 2001 GUII, 3.0ltr. Different models and engines may differ.

All was done directly where the original wireless remote controller sits. Under the LHS of the dash, to the right of the glove box.
No need to run any other wire to anywhere else. Also the locks are positive triggered too. The kit I bought, and assuming all are like this, has the wiring for both positive and negative triggers.
So the coloured wires to look out for are :


Indicator output : Green/ Red
Indicator output : Green / Yellow
12V feed : White / Red (Thicker wire than the others)
Door Lock output : Light Blue (Thicker wire than the others)
Door Unlock output : Light Blue / Red (Thicker wire than the others)

The kit you buy will have instructions telling you what their wires are for so that part is real easy. It was working it out on the truck end, but I got it and it works a treat.
So all can be done and installed in the one spot and after I worked out the wiring, you could do this in under 20minutes, easy.
Now I just have to figure out how to learn the spare remote. The instructions I have are in Klingon I reckon.
Hope this helps anyone.
All I want to do now is work out what I can use the trunk release button for. Remote switching flood lamps maybe?

Pulled it all apart.
My wires are differant colour.
Any help please.
I have a 2006 Patrol 3L diesel.
Thanks
Hocks

[BillsGU]

Sorry - can't help you there. My colours were identical to Mudski's. You would have to look up wiring diagrams and work out where your colours are different.

[GUNewby2019]

Hi all, Newby here, not so much to 4wd's or mechanical, but i do fall short when it comes to electrical. I always come back here for info on any patrol issue, and i've never even realized i could join lol...... let alone how many other people have or had the same issue and found help here. So here i am, i do have a question which after reading every thread for days solid, seems more complicated....... Sorry to those who have heard this before, but even so, not 1 thread here has actually helped solve my issue, So i registered and here I am.

I have a gq on steroids, but my issue is with my 1999 gu tb45 st wagon, manual. and here it is lol..... and its central locking. Allot of threads tell me gu series 2 or after have the module under the dash board and that's probably right, but a 1999 gu st does not. A thread here show pics of plugs and wiring, but are completely different to mine. My gu has central off the drivers doos switch, and i'm trying to fit a jay car keyless entry steel mate 386M.

Again sorry, there is a heap of threads on this perticular unit, but nothing that actually helps for mine. Has anyone out there ever had the same issue? fitted the same unit? can help with what i need to do? is it just a 5 wire actuator i need? I can build houses, trailers, but this is doing my head in lol.
Please help!!!

[mudski]

Your wont have factory remote central locking. So, i think, there wont be a control module. Its all controlled by the master switch, I believe. Their will be a way to do it. Using the new keyless control unit to activate the master is what you need it to do I think. The other doors should just follow suit.

[Winnie]

I'm not sure about the unit you have, but if you just put a remote controlled actuator on the drivers door lock, it will control the rest just as if you had turned the key in the door.
This is the setup I have in my GQ.

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