Stopping Surface Rust

[Goose]

Hi again, cheers for the help so far guys, she's getting there slowly.

I pulled up the carpet on the drivers side floor to find a nice big patch of surface rust.

I just want to make sure my procedures are ok and if anyone else knows any special tricks.

In the past i just used a wire brush on the grinder sanded it right back and applied kill rust (with primer) to the whole area and painted over if in a visible spot.

Is this technique ok or is there anything else i should be doing?

Cheers.

[GQ10]

That's about all I do too but don't forget the rust converter before the Killrust, wait for it to properly dry before the killrust gets applied too.

[Timbo]

I've been meaning to reply to this thread since it was posted but always got carried away with other stuff.

What GQ10 said is what I would do. I think your technique will be fine Goose. I think fish oil is good as well, but I've never used it and not really sure how you go about it. Probably the same way.
If your sanding the rust back to bare metal, don't forget it's good to use an etch primer to bite into the metal, then you can use a 2pack primer over it, and then paint etc.

[brando4x4]

Just try and scrape away as much as possible with a wire brush first and what timbo said is a good technique

[bsax]

yeah i have been old about fish oil aswell actually.
its used to waterproof the area and im fairly sure you would put it on first, i think, don't take my word for it but it's what i've been told.
you'd want to be carefull about using fishoil aka if it's fairly warm and you get fishoil on your carpet, you're going to smell out the car =p

[oldtimer40]

That's about all I do too but don't forget the rust converter before the Killrust, wait for it to properly dry before the killrust gets applied too.

I will have to do this treatment to mine as well...What is rust converter??

I am grinding / sanding back to the bare metal, and applying the rustkill by paintbrush directly, then spray the primer and sealer

[missingdna]

rust converter is usually a form of phosphoric acid that when applied to rust goes through a chemcal reaction,converting the rust to iron phosphate (i think) which is chemically inert ie: not rusting.
once converted, rust preventative products ( fish oil,lanolin, primer and paint etc) are applied to prevent further rusting.

the trick is that there has to be some rust there for the chemical reaction to occur, so if you go wild with the sander or wire brush and remove ALL the rust then the converter has nothing to react with.

[oldtimer40]

rust converter is usually a form of phosphoric acid that when applied to rust goes through a chemcal reaction,converting the rust to iron phosphate (i think) which is chemically inert ie: not rusting.
once converted, rust preventative products ( fish oil,lanolin, primer and paint etc) are applied to prevent further rusting.

the trick is that there has to be some rust there for the chemical reaction to occur, so if you go wild with the sander or wire brush and remove ALL the rust then the converter has nothing to react with.

Thanks for that Missingdna,

It has been a while since I done any rust / body repairs. In the past, I used to do patch ups (i.e. Grind / Sand, apply rustkill, then 2 coats primer, sand again, then paint, etc).

At one time I had some really pungent smelling stuff I brought and applied by brush directly to rust as a short-cut fix because I was going to get back to it later, and the whole rusted area turned black, hardened and brittle looking... Is this the rust converter?

[missingdna]

Thanks for that Missingdna,

It has been a while since I done any rust / body repairs. In the past, I used to do patch ups (i.e. Grind / Sand, apply rustkill, then 2 coats primer, sand again, then paint, etc).

At one time I had some really pungent smelling stuff I brought and applied by brush directly to rust as a short-cut fix because I was going to get back to it later, and the whole rusted area turned black, hardened and brittle looking... Is this the rust converter?


Yes, this would be rust converter. Once the chemical reaction has finished it usually turns a blackish colour.
Rust converter is an excellent way of dealing with rust as long as any loose scale is removed first,and follow up preventative methods are used.
I dont use converter only if i can sand blast the area as a means of rust removal, as i feel that with wire brushing or grinding it is too easy to not remove ALL the rust which will lead to rust returning later on.

frankie

[nick4884]

so that black iron phosphate stuff that results from rust converter can be primed and painted over without worry? Or would it pay to give it another sand? I've got the rails on the side of my GQ's roof coming up. Cheers

[AB]

so that black iron phosphate stuff that results from rust converter can be primed and painted over without worry? Or would it pay to give it another sand? I've got the rails on the side of my GQ's roof coming up. Cheers

I had rust in the gutters too and a couple of bubbles just above.

Personally for the vehicles body I wouldn't just spray rust converter on and paint over and hope for the best.

I removed the rust entirely using grinder until every single sign of rust was gone. I had to cut through the entire panel exposing the inner panel of the roof and then applied rust converter inside the gap to ensure nothing will start up again.

Then clean and bog it all up, sand back, apply primer and paint.

Have a look below for a basic post about what I did....

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?2600-AB-s-new-GQ-is-finally-here/page33


I am fixing my trailer this way by just rust converting and applying primer, paint, etc but It's only an old trailer. You would hate to have it bubbling back up again on your vehicle a few months later.

[AB]

If It's only surface rust on your gutter then you may only need to just shave off the surface rust until you hit bare metal and apply a super etch primer and spray colour, job done.