fuel filters

[bushytas]

Hi ALL

I have a question for anyone that can answer it

With the fuel filters on the 08 patrols has anyone changed one for an aftermarket filter?

The price is just stupid for the factory one

If you have pictures of what you have done please post them i would love to see what others have done

factory filter Up to $100

http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/j462/partsweb/16400-EC00B.jpg

sample of after market up to $20 each filter

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2012/06/1.jpg

Cheers Brendon

[bazzad]

Hi Brendon,
Do not change from the factory filter to anything aftermarket. You have common rail injection which means the filtration is down to 3 microns or so. Any of those old style filters only get down to around 10-15 microns. Your fuel pump is a high pressure unit that pumps up to very high pressure. ( haven't seen the figures but i would guess about 1500bar) It has pistons with no seals that rely on fine tolerances between the piston and the bore to create this pressure. Any dirty fuel will destoy it very quickly. Even whenever you change this filter don't just pre fill it before fittng it as this can be enough to wreck your pump.
Mate i would suggest you stick to the factory unit and don't let someone talk you into an aftermarket filter unless they will give you a warranty for your fuel pump.
Hope this helps,
cheers
Barry

[Maxhead]

What Bazzad said above...

Also from memory the Nissan filters are rated at 40k and lot of the aftermarket ones need changing at 10k, so the maths is simple.

I would stick to original in the CRD's

[luxo barge]

Ok, so the way I read it is, the nissan filter is very good with 2-3 micron filtration and 40000km service intervils. But if one was to get some bad fuel, one could expect that the filter may need changing sooner than 40000km? Also the factory nissan filter has only a small water seperation portion, and water is a killer to an engine.

So if you were to fit a cav style 5 or 10 micron filter before the factory filter, and check the clear bowl for water every time you fuel up, and replace that cheap cav filter every 10000 km. Would this be good insurance against bad fuel and expensive repairs, even if it increases your service costs a little?

Btw, I think you will find that these cheaper to replace cav filters are available in 2, 5, and 10 microns

[Maxhead]

So if you were to fit a cav style 5 or 10 micron filter before the factory filter, and check the clear bowl for water every time you fuel up, and replace that cheap cav filter every 10000 km. Would this be good insurance against bad fuel and expensive repairs, even if it increases your service costs a little?



Correct but you might find you are putting too much pressure on the fuel pump having two filters therefore shortening its life.....

No win situation really, but I am sure guys have setup different systems and they seem to be working so far...

[bushytas]

HI Guys
Thanks for the replies

It’s all very interesting, I do like the idea of the extra filter but as NISSHEAD said it might put some extra strain on the factory fuel pump Might be worth talking to a diesel mechanic and get his view.

I did see the factory filters on eBay for $75 I might just have to buy them.

This going back to Nissan for a filter at $150 each is bull like everything else with Nissan.

Plus I’ve had enough of their shit here in my state, I sunk my 4wd in a river about a year ago now, I took it into Nissan to have all the oil changed in diff's gear box etc paid big money for the job.

Then here not long ago when I changed the tyres MTZ's for road treat, And after driving out of the tyre shop I heard a noise in the diff, I got home and I had a look, and what do you know I had a small amount of oil in the diff SOMEONE forgot to fill it back up, it took over a litre of LSD oil to fill the diff.

I know if I go back it will end in a shit fight so I’m not even going to bother plus I’m thinking of changing the diff ratios so I can run the 285/75/16 tyres

[luxo barge]

Well like you i'm doing my reasearch first. I have found the biggest killer would be water in the fuel and i would like tocatch it and hace early warning. With the CAV style filters theclear bowl would give you a clear indicaion, but the filter may cause too much restriction. I have come across a dedicated water seperator with an in cab alarm and warning light, that does not appear to restrict the fuel flow.

It's called a water watch..... Here is the link, http://http://www.responsiveengineering.com.au/8263/Water_Watch_System/What_is_Water_Watch?/

[bushytas]

Well like you i'm doing my reasearch first. I have found the biggest killer would be water in the fuel and i would like tocatch it and hace early warning. With the CAV style filters theclear bowl would give you a clear indicaion, but the filter may cause too much restriction. I have come across a dedicated water seperator with an in cab alarm and warning light, that does not appear to restrict the fuel flow.

It's called a water watch..... Here is the link, http://http://www.responsiveengineering.com.au/8263/Water_Watch_System/What_is_Water_Watch?/

I wonder what they cost ?

[luxo barge]

I wonder what they cost ?

$500, i think I seen on their site.

[bushytas]

$500, i think I seen on their site.
I guess its made of gold ?

[nissannewby]

You could fit the cav before your factory filter and if your worried aboout restriction place a small electric fuel pump down at your tank just to help it out. I work with a bloke who runs a cav filter under his tray on a CRD patrol ute and it has excess of 200k on it and he hasnt had a drama yet.

[bushytas]

You could fit the cav before your factory filter and if your worried aboout restriction place a small electric fuel pump down at your tank just to help it out. I work with a bloke who runs a cav filter under his tray on a CRD patrol ute and it has excess of 200k on it and he hasnt had a drama yet.
IS he still running the fatory filter ?

[my third 256]

had a look at mine today and there isnt much room to put a second filter

[JoeG]

had a look at mine today and there isnt much room to put a second filter
Hi Yes I have the factory filter with a CAV before (Because I have a custom Cab Chassis I have plenty of room, but many others manage to fit them next to the OEM filter)
I also have the CAV on the Sub tank transfer as well, lots of room so no worries.
As for when the filter blocks the result is the same regardless of how many filters you have :- blocked filter = poor performance and loss of power,
I carry 2 spare filters ($6.00 each) just in case.
I did the same with my 1992 Hilux in 1994 after some bad fuel have only changed the OEM filter once since then (at around 200,000km)
so have complete faith in my set up
On our 1999 Pajero I did fit a $30.00 lift pump for priming (also on my tractor) since they have the CAV on the fire wall and quite high
Hope this helps

[nissannewby]

IS he still running the fatory filter ?

Yeah still runs factory filter.

[luxo barge]

So the patrol filters are as dear as poison, but there are a lot of Common rails getting around these days in various forms and brands. So what about using a filter set up from another manufactuar with same size engine ect that has fatroy filters at a far lower price. If it's good enough for another brand in their common rail than why not the Patrol, they all work on the same princable don't they ?

Plus I don't see why you could not replace the factory filter with say a Racor set up with clear bowl and water sensor, fitted with a cheaper racor or other 2 micon filter with a high flow rate.


Why could you not replace the fatroy filter and use one of these with the 2 micron filter, or supplement with the factroy filter and use a 10 micron filter. http://www.westernfilters.net.au/product_info.php?cPath=21_42_131&products_id=705

[bushytas]

Hi Yes I have the factory filter with a CAV before (Because I have a custom Cab Chassis I have plenty of room, but many others manage to fit them next to the OEM filter)
I also have the CAV on the Sub tank transfer as well, lots of room so no worries.
As for when the filter blocks the result is the same regardless of how many filters you have :- blocked filter = poor performance and loss of power,
I carry 2 spare filters ($6.00 each) just in case.
I did the same with my 1992 Hilux in 1994 after some bad fuel have only changed the OEM filter once since then (at around 200,000km)
so have complete faith in my set up
On our 1999 Pajero I did fit a $30.00 lift pump for priming (also on my tractor) since they have the CAV on the fire wall and quite high
Hope this helps

This might be worth doing, and i would like to think it might place longer times in between changing the factory filter

[JoeG]

This might be worth doing, and i would like to think it might place longer times in between changing the factory filter
The only reason I changed the OEM filter on the hilux was because it was starting to look daggy non the out side after 180,000km and living its whole life on a dairy farm, It certainly didn't get dirty
On my tractor it is always filled with drum fuel and one of my WW11 jerry cans started to loose its read lead lining and was causing me grief with the OEM filter, so a electric lift pump and CAV separator/filter and no more issues, the CAV bowl catches the paint flakes and the $6.00 filter the dirt, (I get around a tea spoon of grit out of the bowl every 5,00km or 50 hrs on all my vehicles and it does't come from my drums, it comes from the servo).
I trained as a motor mechanic in the 60'sand have worked in the power station industrie since the 70's and have total faith in my set up
Regards
Joe

[Jamesandlizk]

How do I check my fuel filter to see if it has water In it?

[Dr Gary]

WW20072 unit suitable for all size Patrols $495, mounting bracket and hoses $95--sounds like a "get rich quick" scheme to me

[JoeG]

CAV filter/seperator units don't cost any where near that.
I normaly fit one up for around $100. and fit it before the OEM filter & for another $40 fit a electric lift pump after the CAV unit which makes filter changes a breeze
Joe

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 2

[fs1952]

Stick with the factory for all reason given in other posts. I enhance mine with a Donaldson Filter from Berrima acting like a pre filter. This will help the Nissan on last longer. Filters are cheaper than fuel system replacement.

[steve4377]

I think the filter is designed in a specific shape so;

a) They can charge more for it - as it looks impressive, just like a machine in an operating theatre; and
b) It's harder to copy and takes longer before aftermarket models come on line to dilute their sales; and
c) They can try to claim your warranty is invalidated if you use an 'inferior' copy, at least during the warranty period.

I would use it during the warranty period then change to aftermarket.

I doubt it would filter down to 3 microns as this is not required even for close tolerance fittings - I suspect you have a paper filter media in it like all the rest - cut one open when it's changed and have a look inside and see what it is.

I work with aviation fuel and when we filter down to 5 - 10 microns all that comes through is the 'colour' of the fuel, and of course any trapped contaminants on the outer side.

I believe that water in the fuel is often blamed when it has nothing to do with the problem.

Also water in suspension is not harmful to your engine in suspension, in fact a small amount aids cooling. Your big aeroplanes - 320's. 737s, 747, 380's etc, can sometimes have 30 parts per million and this would not even be noticed by the turbine engines.

A car piston engine would tolerate much more water in suspension than that. Water as a solid, which is 20% heavier than diesel, sinks to the bottom of the tank, and would rarely travel to the engine. If it did some would be stopped (not all) by the water trap and may give an indication of a fault. Solid water will make your engine run like a dog, not because it's causing damage, but because it doesn't burn!

The fuel filters are designed to filter out particulates mainly and do a great job. CRD probably have a finer filter fitted, but it's probably more about making more profits than cleaning the fuel any better.

Remember the fuel quality is more related to how it's stored and handled rather than how it's refined. It all leaves the refinery as top shelf stuff.

If you're worried about water in the fuel add a couple hundred mills of Methelated Spirit to the fuel tank when it's very low, then fill the tank right up. This will absorb water, when the fresh fuel is sloshing into the tank, and then carry it through the engine to be burnt, and if it's only a tiny amount you won't even notice. If you suspect you have heaps of water in the tank, then drain it and clean it, it's the only way to get rid of a lot of water, but that is rare. If you want to test this theory, get a cup of fuel, put in a few drops of water and watch it settle as water on the bottom. Then stir in a teaspoon of meths and watch the water disappear - hey presto.

Works in boats too. The much greater problem with Diesel (not petrol) is bugs living in the fuel - when there is water present - these can and often do plug your filters, but don't cause damage.
Treat your fuel once a year with a quality treatment and you'll never have a problem.

Also note that diesel is kerosene, a very low grade fuel, you can mix it with just about anything and it'll still work okay. Remember diesel engine were invented to run on peanut oil!!! Discarded old fuels of many types are known to be 'thrown' into storage diesel tanks at fuel storage depots and generally improve the diesel rather than contaminating it - go figure. Tiny amounts of burnable liquids added to very large amounts of different burnable liquids are inconsequential.
Go look at all the fuel additives in a car shop. Most are useless, yet they sell no problem - There's one born every minute it seems. If it ain't broke, don't fix it...

And also if you have contaminated fuel, don't throw it away. Let it settle for a few days. The density will settle out the water and impurities - cast these away and use the rest of the good fuel. Density is your friend! The exception of course is bugs - get rid of bugged fuel - Why, because they are living things, they die and their dead bodies take up physical space (just like people), thus they block filters etc, they can also be acidic and cause corrosion etc.

So again, always use OEM during warranty as the quality of the printers ink on the outside makes all the difference -that bit of ink that say's Genuine Nissan Part - will ensure that you don't give em an excuse to try and void your warranty.

And for whats it's worth I think 40k is long time to ru the filter, in fact any filter, because well they eh...filter...and filters have a finite capacity, but anyways ...good luck.