timing belt replacement on 2.8TD

[brucewaller]

Couldn't find the detail on a thread search. Can anybody tell me what the thread size is on the bolts in the front face of the pulley and can I use them to assist in removing the pulley if I fabricate a puller for the job? I am assuming 6mm but we all know where assumptions get us.

Bruce

[my third 256]

what patrol

[brucewaller]

Sorry about that. GQ 1996 Wagon RX 2.8TD. I was in town and had to buy some things so I reckon I would by the bolts to make up a puller. I can easily pull one out and measure it but I was being a little lazy.

[brucewaller]

Another query, am I correct in saying that Loctite 242 would be OK for the Harmonic Balance pulley bolt?

[White Elephant]

G'day Bruce, I have a 95 RX 2.8TD. I have had the balancer off a few times for various reasons. I'm not too sure about using the bolts on the face of the balancer, I probably wouldn't due to the risk of either breaking one, or putting the dynamic balance out on the harmonic balancer itself. I have found in the past that a couple of heavy taps(not too hard) with a rubber mallet will shock the balancer loose, then you can just ease it off by jiggling. Ideally you would use a puller, just to be safe. The balancer is nt cheap to replace. Be careful not to lose the woodruff key once the pulley is off, and pay attention to the installed direction of the washer/spacers. The taper should curve away from the timing belt on both sides once installed.

As for the loctite 242, that should be fine. Just make sure you get that retaining bolt done up super tight, because they do come loose if you don't.

Hope this helps!

[brucewaller]

Thanks White Elephant. I guess that to undo this bolt a normal 1/2 inch knuckle bar and socket will do the job, if required I can use the special calibrated extension - a piece of RHS or pipe to help. Just the reverse to do it up again with the loctite or should I do the right thing and find a suitable torque wrench? Other than that it all seems to be a job I should be able to do myself. I have the timing belt kit now and while at it I will replace the power sterring belt, the others have been done fairly recently but will check them while off.
The old girl, Patrol not wife, is getting a wee bit tired and I am about to embark on the long road of getting her back into a better order. The timing belt just happened to fall due at around the same time. She has just clocked over 300K and though rattling a bit I would actually buy if I was looking for a Patrol to put a bit of work into with a decent vehicle at the end of things. She owes us nothing and the family and I have enjoyed the times she has taken us out and about. Time to put a bit back into her.

Bruce

[the ferret]

Couldn't find the detail on a thread search. Can anybody tell me what the thread size is on the bolts in the front face of the pulley and can I use them to assist in removing the pulley if I fabricate a puller for the job? I am assuming 6mm but we all know where assumptions get us.

Bruce
Hi Bruce, the two threads are M6 fine, standard 1/2 inch bar will undo the big bolt.
Do the front seal, the tensioner and the idler while you are at it.
Mark position of the injector pump before removing the old belt,
Check and double check the belt timing,
loctite the big bolt.
Replace the two bottom bolts in the timing cover before fitting the harmonic.

http://i608.photobucket.com/albums/tt164/ferret/2_8Timing.jpg

Cheers, the ferret.
t

[White Elephant]

Thanks White Elephant. I guess that to undo this bolt a normal 1/2 inch knuckle bar and socket will do the job, if required I can use the special calibrated extension - a piece of RHS or pipe to help. Just the reverse to do it up again with the loctite or should I do the right thing and find a suitable torque wrench? Other than that it all seems to be a job I should be able to do myself. I have the timing belt kit now and while at it I will replace the power sterring belt, the others have been done fairly recently but will check them while off.
The old girl, Patrol not wife, is getting a wee bit tired and I am about to embark on the long road of getting her back into a better order. The timing belt just happened to fall due at around the same time. She has just clocked over 300K and though rattling a bit I would actually buy if I was looking for a Patrol to put a bit of work into with a decent vehicle at the end of things. She owes us nothing and the family and I have enjoyed the times she has taken us out and about. Time to put a bit back into her.

Bruce

No Probs mate. I had to rebuild mine over the xmas break just passed, all because the water pump let go and I cooked the old girl,(after 345k) but she's all good now! They're a pretty simple engine and if you cross all the T's and dot the I's you should be able to do quite a bit on her yourself to keep her running. Just make sure you keep up with the preventative maintenance.

Also, the ferret also makes some good points which I failed to mention! In any case, you're in the right place for any info on your bus! Good luck with it!

[brucewaller]

Gentlemen,

Much appreciated. I am now halfway through the process and time for a cup of tea. Ferret thanks for the diagram, it appears to have a bit more info than my Gregorys manual. Would you recommend a drop of loctite 242 on the screw and bolt for the tensioner to block screw and the idler bolt, or just do them up as per the torque without the thread lock? Had to get a puller for the balancer, radiator out to get it in place. Otherwise all well so far.

Bruce

[the ferret]

It shouldn't hurt mate, but you don't want to snap it next time!
I would also use 2 new keys for the harmonic, and don't bend the thin plate behind the crank belt drive, or you will need to buy a new sprocket!
Cheers, The ferret.

[brucewaller]

White Elephant and Ferret, the patrol is now back in one piece with the new timing belt and associated parts. All appears to be well thought he mind is playing tricks by telling me that there are more rattles than before! By far the most difficult part of the job thus far has been getting a socket on the engine block coolant drain plug, having had the radiator out to get the puiller on I figured I may as well drain and replace the coolant with a fresh lot.
Thanks for your help gentlemen, it was greatly appreciated.

Bruce

[White Elephant]

White Elephant and Ferret, the patrol is now back in one piece with the new timing belt and associated parts. All appears to be well thought he mind is playing tricks by telling me that there are more rattles than before! By far the most difficult part of the job thus far has been getting a socket on the engine block coolant drain plug, having had the radiator out to get the puiller on I figured I may as well drain and replace the coolant with a fresh lot.
Thanks for your help gentlemen, it was greatly appreciated.

Bruce

No probs at all mate. It's always a pleasure to be able to impart some info. Pleased you got the job done without too many dramas! Here's hoping you get many more hours and km's of happy wheeling!

[the ferret]

White Elephant and Ferret, the patrol is now back in one piece with the new timing belt and associated parts. All appears to be well thought he mind is playing tricks by telling me that there are more rattles than before! By far the most difficult part of the job thus far has been getting a socket on the engine block coolant drain plug, having had the radiator out to get the puiller on I figured I may as well drain and replace the coolant with a fresh lot.
Thanks for your help gentlemen, it was greatly appreciated.

Bruce

No problem at all Bruce, not everyone knows everything, and I am happy to share my limited knowledge with those who need it, I dont profess to be an expert but I have had a lot of experience with the problem you have or had ATM, This is what this forum is all about, sort of sharing what you know and as White Elephant said, pleased you got the job done.
All the best with your repairs.
Cheers, the ferret