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fat paddy
10th May 2012, 11:19 PM
I was wondering if anybody out there has had experience or could point me in the direction of help for a problem with the lift pump in my 3.0 GU?
I have put the engine back together after replacing the head and now I cannot prime the fuel through. I can push the lift pump till my arm gets sore but the resistance does not increase.
There is heaps of fuel in the tank.
I have pulled the lift pump off its mount, removed the filter and tested it on the bench. It definately works by creating pressure.
Putting it all back together I have pulled the outlet pipe off and started pumping as per suggestion in the Gregory's manual. Push down, cover outlet with finger, release pump, release finger. Repeat until fuel flows. I get fuel to flow, but if I stop using my finger over the end of the outlet and keep pumping the fuel stops flowing.
I guess the question is there must be valves in the lift pump that facilitate the pumping and one of them may be stuck/stuffed. Has anyone else had this problem? What is the fix?
Fat Paddy.

Gas_Guzzler4800
11th May 2012, 06:54 AM
Very very common and just had the same problem when doing a head on a ZD30. The only permanent solution is to replace with a new item. However to get you out of trouble pop down to BCF or any boat shop and buy an inline primer bulb. Fit it between the fuel line from the tank and the hand primer. Pop the fuel line off the inlet side of the injector pump and squeeze the primer bulb until diesel comes out of the line. fit the fuel line back onto the injector pump and continue to squeeze the primer bulb until it goes firm. Make sure you have a good battery and get someone to crank while you continue to prime. It will go.

Once its up and running you can remove the primer bulb. Just put your finger over the ends of the fuel hoses as you do and it will fire straight back up again.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2012/05/172.jpg

fat paddy
11th May 2012, 08:15 AM
Brilliant! Just what I wanted. What happened to your head? Mine perforated along a seam in one of the inlet ports of No.4 and was about to let go in a similar spot on No.1. Rough start and steam
FP

fat paddy
11th May 2012, 09:22 AM
woooooo hoooooo. Lift pump is a stocked item at the local Nissan dealler. 6 nights of burning the midnight candle after working all day, I might be seeing the light at the end of the tunnel. New head $1700 including full gasket kit, fitler, oil, coolant, fan belt, thermostat, timing chain maybe $500.00. Lift pump $240. 42mm socket and 3/4 socket bar to spin the motor and sundries $100. $2540 total. Howzat!!!

growler2058
11th May 2012, 09:30 AM
Well dun FP definitely better than a workshop woulda slugged ya ay


Tappin N Crappin

Gas_Guzzler4800
11th May 2012, 07:41 PM
Not my head, it was a customers. Head was cracked around #4 valves and starting to show signs around #1 as well. Intake manifold runners full of carbon buildup 1&4, no NADS, EGR blanking plate etc. Did you get her running yet?

fat paddy
13th May 2012, 09:32 PM
Yep she is going. The new lift pump did the trick although it did take some time to get the fuel pressure up and I was starting to think I had just waisted $$$ on a new lift pump.
The new head is an after market job about 50% heavier than the original and I have noticed the engine runs a lot quieter.
Now all I have to do is find the squeek in the front of the engine and I am sorted. It's not the idler pulley as I replaced that thinking it was that, $340, nor was it the fan belt, $90. I suspect it is the altinator.
The Gregories says the altinator is a specialist job so I quess I will at least pull it out and then hand it to a auto electrician.
What is a "NADS"?
GG - you wouldn't be in the north east of Victoria by any chance?