Does CRD GU8 require EGR block etc. [Archive]

Maxhead

8th May 2012, 06:26 AM

I personally wouldn't bother but lots have blocked the EGR, you need to drill a small hole in the block plate to stop the EGR errors. Or get a Scangauge to clear the errors.
The ECU controls the boost very well on these so dowes and needle valve is probably not needed. Definitely put a Provent catch can on if you have the room under the bonnet tho.

teach

8th May 2012, 11:10 PM

Thanks for the replies. :bigthumbup:

Will do a Provent catch can then. Have been looking at Scangauge II or the Ultragauge as the extra info/data would be beneficial to know and monitor.

mitchelljames

13th May 2012, 11:18 AM

Hi teach im in a similar situation i have the 08 GU CRD DX i have the blocking plate ready to install but everyone i talk to seems to think it can do more damage then good with the errors putting the vehicle into limp mode , i have also heard some people say you will need to put a hole in the blocking plate but then others say not to .
I have read lots on the scangauge II about clearing the errors , is it as simple as pushing a button ? Does it happen automatic? does it need to be done each time the car turns on ?
cheers

tempestv8

13th May 2012, 11:18 PM

Years 2000 - early 2003 mate. Yours is more than ok being a 2010.

So, what you are saying is that there is no need for NADS for CRD motors. But as I understand it, Nissan Anti Detonation System consists of other components like an oil catch can.

Is the oil catch can not required for the CRD motor? Sorry for such a basic question - I'm only just coming up to speed with NADS and trying to understand if I can avoid such modifications buy buying a GU5 or later. I've worked out from some initial research through this forum that the GU 5 and later come with the CRD motor, and GU4 and earlier are fitted with the DI motor.

I am researching GU Patrols on behalf of a family member who is interested in purchasing one with an auto transmission. So I've been doing a lot of "catch up" research on the ZD30; please be patient with me asking questions that may be very well understood by this fraternity.

the ferret

13th May 2012, 11:31 PM

Mate, all the carbon and crap from the exhaust along with the oil vapour from the PCV is not a good thing for any engine, blocking the EGR on the CRD can be done and there are members here that would agree.
Just do a search and read some of the stories.
Cheers, the ferret.

tempestv8

14th May 2012, 12:01 AM

Hi Ferret,

Thanks for your reply. I did read up the EGR blank and that's one modification that's going to be a given. But my query is regarding the oil catch can - is that required for a CRD motor?

I've been trawling through the CRD threads and I haven't seen any CRD owner install a catch can, but maybe I've not used the right search words.

Thanks!

the ferret

14th May 2012, 12:31 AM

Well that's a good that you are going to block the EGR, this will stop the carbon build up inside the Inlet manifold, step 1
The PCV allows oil vapour to mix with and cause the carbon to stick to the inlet manifold, step 2
Fitting a catch can stops most of the oil vapour entering the manifold.
Even after the engine is shut down, there is still oil vapour from the PCV inside the ducting that houses the MAF when not using a catch can.
This vapour sticks to the MAF and can send the wrong messages to the ECU, thus causing all sorts of problems regarding engine performance and fueling.
Whether it's a volks wagon or a Daimler, blocking the EGR is only a good thing.
Ya can take my word for it if you like or seek other opinions, you have my view on the system mods.
I have been known to be wr..........., sorry, can't say the word, ends in g tho.
Safe driving and enjoy your patrol.
Cheers, the ferret.
Here's ya inlet manifold at 150000ks with no EGR block and no catch can.
http://i608.photobucket.com/albums/tt164/ferret/7-1-1.jpg

tempestv8

14th May 2012, 11:14 AM

Hi Ferret,

Thanks for sharing that picture. It does look quite bad, and I've seen very similar pictures of Toyota diesel engines (D-4D 4 cylinder in Prado and D-4D V8 in Land Cruiser) exhibiting the exact same gunk build up.

I wonder how diesel specialists in European countries deal with this issue, because most EU countries have yearly emissions testing (MOT in the UK for example) and blocking off the EGR will only result in a fail during the annual check.

I am grateful that Australia has not introduced mandatory emissions testing, but I digress as that's another discussion along with environmental impact, etc. :1087:

Back on topic, so yes, fully agree CRD motor (any diesel motor fitted with EGR, really) will benefit from EGR block, and now you've explained that the CRD motor also requires an oil catch can.

Which leads me on to the next question: Is the catch can for a DI motor the same as for a CRD motor?

I did more reading last night on the Provent 200 catch can, but I didn't see any mention of it fitted to the crankcase ventilation circuit for CRD motors.

These pictures are all of the DI motors, from what I can tell:

http://www.exploroz.com/Utilities/showImage.aspx?i=%2fUploads%2fMembers%2f135823.75% 2fForum%2fPic_15__TN800.jpg&w=500

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2012/05/173.jpg

the ferret

14th May 2012, 11:21 AM

Sorry, Can't answer that Question, I have never fitted a catch can to a CRD, others have tho.
I spose any good quality catch can would do the job, all it has to do is catch and treat the outlet from the crank case (PCV), running it back to the sump is your choice.
Cheers, the ferret.

teno45

14th May 2012, 12:42 PM

The provent fits in the the same place as your second picture for a CRD. The inlet pipe is slighty different though. Can get some photos tonight if you're interested. Can thank NissPat,sorry, NissHead for my installs!

grimace

14th May 2012, 08:25 PM

g'day teach, i too have the 2008 gu dx commonrail and i have installed a catch can which is a very easy DIY instal and judging by what is caught in there it has to be better than fouling your maf sensor. as for the egr block i bought one from the ferret on this forum but as yet have not fitted it because of the mixed reports i have read however today i spoke to one of the blokes from ROO SYSTEMS and he told me they instal about 3 every week and as yet have not had anyone complaining about fault codes coming up he reckoned it was not very common at all so after this advice i will be installing the egr. block as soon as i get the chance. also have you done the boost and egt gauges? if not this is also well worth doing! cheers....

Maxhead

14th May 2012, 08:58 PM

Just do it mate, you will not do any harm but protect your inlet manifold. Give us some feed back if you get errors or not, if temps change, etc..ALL IS GOOD.
ferret plates are the best in the country mate...you need these :)

teach

14th May 2012, 09:20 PM

Great thread and input is very helpful :smiley_thumbs_up:

Will these items affect your warranty (I am sure the egr block would if they found it)?

Or do you wait until warranty over? Will they find it during servicing?

I thinks the EGR block etc is way to go, after seeing many posts of pre CRD motors.

Drew

15th May 2012, 07:13 AM

sr06

18th May 2012, 06:51 PM

I'm hoping to get a scangauge in the next few weeks after speaking to another bloke on here they sound go and easyer to install then the normal gauge and cover a lot more and great thread been looking for info like this on the crds for months thanks everyone

teno45

19th May 2012, 03:51 PM

Yes please :)

These should sort you out.

http://i825.photobucket.com/albums/zz171/teno45/20120519_150946.jpg
http://i825.photobucket.com/albums/zz171/teno45/20120519_150958.jpg
http://i825.photobucket.com/albums/zz171/teno45/20120519_151007.jpg
http://i825.photobucket.com/albums/zz171/teno45/20120519_151026.jpg

Ps, Anyone know why the oil is this funny colour? Really not sure about it...

http://i825.photobucket.com/albums/zz171/teno45/20120519_151104.jpg

Maxhead

19th May 2012, 06:10 PM

These should sort you out.

Ps, Anyone know why the oil is this funny colour? Really not sure about it...

http://i825.photobucket.com/albums/zz171/teno45/20120519_151104.jpg

You'll get it on cold mornings. I am sure it is condensation mixing with oil. I used to get it a fair bit in winter.

mitchelljames

5th June 2012, 08:40 PM

did you install the egr block ? if so did you get any errors

bushytas

5th June 2012, 10:41 PM

You'll get it on cold mornings. I am sure it is condensation mixing with oil. I used to get it a fair bit in winter.

what brand it the catch can mate and where did you buy it

Drew

6th June 2012, 06:46 AM

what brand it the catch can mate and where did you buy it

Provent catch can, I got mine on eBay and the hoses from supercrap

Blacklotusdog

6th June 2012, 10:51 AM

I have recently installed one of ferrets EGR block plates on my 2012 GU8, Bit of a prick of a job, just make sure you have some decent length socket extensions to get to the bolts. Doesn't take to long if you have the right tools.

So far i have not had an error fault come up, i have the scangauge 2 there if it does. Can highly recommend getting a scangauge, well worth the money for all the info they give you access to.

After the block i have not seen much change in boost, seems the ECU is doing its job fine, highest boost i have seen is 15.5PSI, doesn't really seem to be any different to what it was before i blocked it.

I think it would probably void the warranty if they saw it was there, but if you are only taking your car in for a normal service its more then likely that an apprentice is doing it, you'll probably be lucky if they actually do all the things required in the service book let alone notice a barely visible steel gasket. Worst case if something was wrong in that area you could always take it out again.

Havent bothered with catch can but am now thinking about it as there was a fair bit of oily shit around the intake of the intercooler when i checked it when doing the EGR blank.

Blacklotusdog

6th June 2012, 10:53 AM

Highly recommend ferrets plate by the way, it is well made and he is a great bloke to deal with, delivered super quick to.

grimace

6th June 2012, 10:25 PM

g'day champ any chance you could post some pics of where the bloody thing goes, have already bought the ferrets blocking plate just havn't shoved it in yet cheers....

Blacklotusdog

7th June 2012, 09:35 AM

Bit of an update,

Very cold morning dis-morning, around 1 Celsius, started the car and flicked on the idle up to let her warm up for 5 minutes before i left for work. Came back and the engine light was on, used scan gauge to check code, p0401, this is the insufficient flow to EGR, cleared code, no more engine light.

Grimace, ferret sent me through these pics, he must have forgotten to ask you if you need them,

ttps://picasaweb.google.com/100860892366057846763/EGRBlock?authuser=0&feat=directlink (https://picasaweb.google.com/100860892366057846763/EGRBlock?authuser=0&feat=directlink)

Few tips, take the plastic shroud and intercooler off before you get stick into the EGR.

On the egr tube there is one bolt close to engine that bolts tube to engine and one bolt on opposite side that attachs a bracket with couple of pipes to the tube. Take this bracket of first to give you some working room so you can move the pipes. Then unbolt the tube from the engine, then unbolt the two bolts that hold the tube onto the actual EGR valve. Remove old gasket and slip ferrets in, i found easier to get the top bolt in first then do this up finger tight to hold it in place. At this stage i managed to drop the lower bolt when trying to get it back in, searched for over an hour but could not find it. I have ordered new bolts from a nissan dealer, part# is 14120AA, just in case anyone does the same. Then bolt tube and bracket back on replace intercooler and shroud and your good.

Take it for a drive and keep an eye on boost under a number for conditions just to make sure it isnt spiking above 15psi, mine never did but seems like others have. If it is you will need to adjust the VNT screw on the trubo to knock the boost down a bit.

robophil

11th April 2013, 05:58 AM

Hi all. My 2009 Patrol Ute 3.0 CRD has recently thrown a P0405 fault code which is something to do with EGR valve or sensor fault so my mechanic (Repco) says so. The fault wont clear on there scan tool or it just resurfaces and they are trying to confirm (with help from auto elecs scan tool) that it actually is a stuffed EGR valve before they replace it. The car has no power and is blowing smoke feels like its in limp mode and is basically undrivable. I am ordering a Scan Gauge 2 myself as it seems the way to go on this vehicle as per threads i have read on here. Does anyone think that fitting an EGR blocking plate may help my situation? I'm no mechanic but have a basic understanding and have a friend that could help with install.

Thanks.

Maxhead

11th April 2013, 07:17 AM

I think you will need to clear the code first to get it out of limp mode. If the egr system is faulty than the plate won't help.

.........on the move

robophil

11th April 2013, 11:18 AM

Thanks. Will focus on getting it running properly first with no faults. Then look into an EGR blocking plate.

NT09ST

27th April 2013, 04:29 PM

Does anyone have any pics of where the blanking plate fits on CRD?? There appers to be 2 places it could go from what i can see.

Cheers

Blacklotusdog

27th April 2013, 05:23 PM

Do a search mate, there is a few threads around with pics

NT09ST

27th April 2013, 06:03 PM

All the stuff i keep finding is for a Di

Blacklotusdog

27th April 2013, 09:58 PM

Not the best pics but hopefully give the idea

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/04/170.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/04/171.jpg

NT09ST

28th April 2013, 10:10 AM

Cheers, ill check it out today :)

Ronin

29th April 2013, 02:49 PM

to put the EGR block in, do you remove the two hoses in front of it ?

Beni C

29th April 2013, 05:38 PM

Great thread! Is this mod definitley worth it for the CRD? I thought all the problems with the old ZD30's were pretty non-existant with the latter model DI's and CRD's. I have just bought a 2008 CRD with 10000k on it but I plan on keeping it for a while and want to protect my investment.
Whats the compenents that you need for a CRD NADS kit?

Blacklotusdog

29th April 2013, 06:36 PM

CRD don't need NADS, the egr will circulate exhaust gas with particulates into your intake over time building up and restricting flow. Blocking egr stops this from occurring, it also reduces the annoying lag when you put your foot down.

To install you remove plastic shroud and intercooler. Then there is little bracket with couple of hoses attached to the egr pipe, remove bracket to enable hose to be flexed out of way. Then remove bolt on other side of egr tube where it bolts onto engine block. Then you can remove the two bolts that attach the actual tube to the intake into manifold. Blank goes in here I put gasket back on intake side as would prefer small amount of exhaust has leaking into engine bay then losing boost out the intake.

Takes about half hour to put in.

Blacklotusdog

29th April 2013, 06:39 PM

Not a bad idea if you plan on keeping car as I have seen photos of some manifolds from cars with 100,000km or so on em and you would be surprised howuch build up there is.

Mine throws engine light every now and then but if you have scan gauge you can clear the fault, p0405, in about ten seconds. Won't go into limp or anything just engine light comes on.

Beni C

29th April 2013, 11:43 PM

Awesome thanks mate, so the gear list should include the erg block plate, provent catch can and the scangauge II??

Beni C

30th April 2013, 12:03 PM

Been doing some more research on this mod this morning and this will definitley be one of the first things on the list!! Do you guys recommend fitting the boost and pyro guages before doing the EGR block? Is it critical on CRD?

I am going to do it eventually but I would prefer to get the EGR block in asap!

Blacklotusdog

30th April 2013, 01:20 PM

Catch can is up to you, some people fit some don't. If you get rid of the soot via the egr block then it can't mix with the oil in intake which the catch can would remove so can't form a sooty deposit. I think you will find most people with crd just do egr block.

Scanguage 2 is great bit of gear, you can use it to check your boost isn't spiking once egr blocked, shouldn't be issue as crd motors seem to be pretty good at controlling boost. Can also help you learn to drive more economically, and can monitor few other things like coolant temp.

I think you will find the crd is pretty reliable compared to the early DI. There is some around now with some pretty high km on em.

Blacklotusdog

30th April 2013, 01:25 PM

Scan gauge will give you boost, egt shouldn't be an issue and is pretty involved in fitting. I would grab a scan gauge and get an idea of what your boost does in diff driving conditions then whack in egr block and check again. Make sure your boost does not spike over about 16psi, you should also see you car now running a higher boost when cruising on hwy speed. Mine sits around 6 I think.

Beni C

30th April 2013, 01:27 PM

Ronin

30th April 2013, 01:31 PM

I am in two minds regarding egr block. Putting it on pretty much voids the warranty, mine is a new 2012 GU8.
From what I have heard (it could be a rumor) , even if you remove the egr block and clear any error codes before the service, the dealer is able to see the that the ECU has been cleared or any past error codes unless a full factory reset of the ECU is done.

If I block the EGR than the dealer can blame a lot of future issues etc on engine tampering.. if I dont block then the engine gets full of crud.... not an easy decision....

Beni C

30th April 2013, 01:38 PM

Ronin

30th April 2013, 01:42 PM

How long is your warranty for Ronin? I juts bought a 08 so no warranty issues there. Dont plan on Nissan ever touching it again to service either. Got a good mate who runs his own diesel mech business and is a keen 4wd buff to.

Just wait till its out mate and then fit it?

I got the 5 year warranty. waiting 5 years means there will be 5 years worth of crud build up.

I also noticed that Nissan has put red tamper evident paint on the bolts of the egr.Pr1cks

Beni C

30th April 2013, 01:54 PM

I got the 5 year warranty. waiting 5 years means there will be 5 years worth of crud build up.

I also noticed that Nissan has put red tamper evident paint on the bolts of the egr.Pr1cks

Bummer, Nissan must have cotten onto it then!

Looking at it in a positive light, at least up to that 5 year mark if your truck stops due to much crud build up, you can get it fixed under warranty!!

Blacklotusdog

30th April 2013, 11:28 PM

Hey ronin I have 2012 GU8 too. I have had one service with Nissan which I took the plate out for just in case it through the engine light. I don't think the codes are stored, once it's cleared it's gone. If you service your car at a Nissan dealer you will be lucky if they actually change your oil let alone go searching for cleared codes in your ecu.

Also as far as I know they have to prove the modification caused the issues if they don't want to honour warranty.

One final thing your warranty is still valid as long as your car is serviced by a qualified mechanic. So of you don't want to pay ridiculous prices and want your car serviced properly take it to a good mechanic you trust and only takeout to Nissan for warranty issues. Once you have put in the egr block it will only take you twenty minutes to pull out, So it's easy to remove

Blacklotusdog

30th April 2013, 11:29 PM

Thanks man! If I can get away without the catch can thats one less job to do, cant find a good reason not to do the EGR block thats definitley on the cards with the scangauge.

Thanks again for your help, finding this forum most helpful!

Does Ferret still do the block plates?

Haven't seen him around on forum lately but apparently is still around. He sells his gear on eBay do may be easier to grab from there.

Clunk

30th April 2013, 11:42 PM

Haven't seen him around on forum lately but apparently is still around. He sells his gear on eBay do may be easier to grab from there.

The Ferret isn't doing them anymore but apparently Mudski who's on here us doing them now

Don't slap it, tap it!!!!

Beni C

1st May 2013, 11:22 AM

The Ferret isn't doing them anymore but apparently Mudski who's on here us doing them now

Don't slap it, tap it!!!!

Awesome thanks mate, will hit him up!

axl100

3rd May 2013, 03:00 PM

Maxhead

3rd May 2013, 03:16 PM

I have 2012 Patrol and the other day i blocked the egr. Checked it with my scan gauge 2 throw a code and deleted it but it keeps coming up as pending codes p0401. Also notice my boost has reached 18.5 psi. When driving it the boost varies from 9 psi upwards and that with the cruise control on.

You could try and drill a 8 to 10mm hole in the blocking plate to eliminate or at least reduce the errors. Seems the GU8's tend to boost a lot higher from what I've been reading but I'm going to install a dawes valve on mine just to be sure and limit the boost around 16psi. I'm getting cruising boost of 22psi when cruising with no load at around 100ks...There was a good thread on here somwhere how the boost spike works when cruising

Maxhead

3rd May 2013, 03:19 PM

Yeah this was it...

I think it's something to do with the egr valve opening and closing at cruising speed/lower engine loads.

Not sure if this is correct:

1. At idle Egr opens to let crap exhaust recirculate
2. You accellerate off and egr closes and boost comes on (high egts)
3. You hit cruising speed. Ecu reads there's low (less than ~55%?? on scangauge) engine load and cruising. Ecu opens the egr valve (even though it's blocked)
4. Bosst pressure increases as more air is flowing??? egt lower
5. Accellerate (more load) egr closes, less boost, more fuel = higher egts

Sooo this happens even on a stock CRD. Try it...
Get up to 100 and cruise. When you are going slightly (less load) down hill you'll notice boost increases.(egr opening) EGTS go way down as more air is flowing
Tap the accellerartor and egr closes and boost goes lower and egt rise as more fuel is being pumped with less air.

Bigger exhaust just makes the boost value slightly higher
Then the EGR block raises the boost even more.

Just what i think what happens. Might be wrong.

axl100

3rd May 2013, 03:47 PM

You could try and drill a 8 to 10mm hole in the blocking plate to eliminate or at least reduce the errors. Seems the GU8's tend to boost a lot higher from what I've been reading but I'm going to install a dawes valve on mine just to be sure and limit the boost around 16psi. I'm getting cruising boost of 22psi when cruising with no load at around 100ks...There was a good thread on here somwhere how the boost spike works when cruising

Well as far as i have been told that the CRD can handle more boost than the old DI. I have heard of someone that has blocked his egr and has a chip it installed has set his boost to go no more than 24 psi..

Maxhead

3rd May 2013, 03:58 PM

Well as far as i have been told that the CRD can handle more boost than the old DI. I have heard of someone that has blocked his egr and has a chip it installed has set his boost to go no more than 24 psi..

Also, when I blocked my EGR it would only boost to around 18 which I thought would be fine but then took it to Nissan for warranty TPS replacement and since then its been boosting to 22psi. I reckon there might be a new ECU firmware/software to make them boost higher....not sure though.

Beni C

9th May 2013, 10:56 AM

Been doing a fair bit more research on this and have found that a lot of people that have done the EGR block on the CRD are reporting higher boost pressures.

So to state the obvious the gunk build up in the intake manifold is due to the exhaust gases mixing with the blow by from the PCV system, so it does pay to take one or perhaps both out of the equation. Interesting though, as I was looking through the electronic service manual it appears that within the PCV system there exists a oil / air separator.

The car goes in for a 100000k service after which the Provent / Scanguage and blocking plate will have arrived. I will fit the Scanguage and Provent first and see how the car behaves then I will fit the block plate and report back findings so watch this space. Being the first turbo and diesel that I have owned I am a bit wary about these boost pressure figures.

Has anyone actually ripped the intake manifold off a CRD with no block or catch can after a considerable amount of k's to see exactly how much gunk has built up? It appears to me that with the oil / air separator already existing within the PCV system that perhaps Nissan cotton on to the fact that exhaust gases and blow by was killing donks.