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View Full Version : blocking EGR and installing needle valve today do i need a ECUtalk



fishnsurf
28th April 2012, 09:44 AM
hi all last week i installed my provent 200 oil/air separator all went well so i then installed my dawes valve and boost gauge but today is a bit scary as i am about to install my needle valve and block EGR but my big question is do i have to have an ECUtalk to clear error codes? will they pop up all the time or just now and then if at all?
thanks jason

teno45
28th April 2012, 02:40 PM
I may be completely wrong here, as Im just going on memory from what I have read on here (recently purchased a patrol, done a fair amount of research first...)

With your 2005 GU, you should be right blocking the EGR without getting fault codes. I believe its only the CRD that throws the EGR codes.

Someone please correct me it im wrong@

fishnsurf
28th April 2012, 03:41 PM
yeah i am not sure if u do or do not get codes pop just by blocking the egr but since i was putting in a needle valve (bypassing the vacuum solenoid) i wondered if this might throw up some codes and if it does am i better off to just adjust the vnt screw and not put in the needle valve?

teno45
28th April 2012, 04:17 PM
Once again, going off what I have read, I don't think it does. The solenoid is controlled by an output from the ECU. The ECU doesn't monitor for a response or anything.

My understanding of the whole idea is that the VNT screw adjustment provides a maximum vane angle (that is, maximum turbo speed), where as the needle valve provides an adjustable spool rate (how fast the turbo spins up).

The only way it might cause the system to throw a fault code is if it over boosts, which I believe is the idea of the dawes valve.

jimmyz
28th April 2012, 05:39 PM
hi Fishnsurf

Getting ready to do the same mods to my 2003 GUIII 3.0L.
Are you able to put up some pic's ?
Can you also let me know where you got the Catch Can & Dawes from.
Going to give it a go myself and would like to get as much install advice as i can.

Any advice on install and where to buy and brand type would be grate.

Jimmy

fishnsurf
28th April 2012, 05:49 PM
Thanks for your response Teno , my feeling is since there has not been anyone confirming error codes popping up that they probably in fact don't get generated from just blocking EGR and by passing solenoid... i had better get on with it..

fishnsurf
28th April 2012, 06:03 PM
hi jimmy,

yeah look i am new to all this as well i purchased my catch can a provent 200 (which seems to be the prefered one) on ebay for $170ish and the went to a hydraulic hose shop and purchased all my oil resistant hoses, clamps, tap etc for about $40 as for my gauges i have cobalt auto meter EGT and Boost and a pillar pod to fit 3 gauges ebay again 3rd gauge is a trany temp...... for the dawes and needle valve see attached link... hope this is some help http://www.chaz.yellowfoot.org/Manual%20Boost%20Controller.htm

jason

fishnsurf
29th April 2012, 03:13 PM
well i blocked my EGR today and installed my needle valve went for a couple of drives and adjusted dawes and needle valve pretty happy with it all so far maybe a bit more tweeking but it seems to run alot smoother and the boost is very smooth not jumping around at all and no error codes ....

jimmyz
29th April 2012, 05:58 PM
Thanks fishnsurf for the info.

Jimmy

ZD30
30th April 2012, 10:53 PM
Hi fishnsurf, you shouldn't get any error code by blocking the EGR valve and installing dawes and needle valve, however some have experienced limp mode when the needle valve is wound in to far making the spoolup to aggressive and sending the ECU into limp mode thus cutting power when trying to accelerate.

fishnsurf
1st May 2012, 05:18 PM
thanks ZD30, might seem like a silly question but does opening up the needle valve make the turbo spool up earlier or later.... and what is a good starting point for the turbo to spool up i currently start spooling at 1500rpm

tony78
1st May 2012, 07:38 PM
ill be doing these mods to my zd30 soon.just gota convince the hand brake to pay for it

ZD30
1st May 2012, 08:15 PM
thanks ZD30, might seem like a silly question but does opening up the needle valve make the turbo spool up earlier or later.... and what is a good starting point for the turbo to spool up i currently start spooling at 1500rpm

Closing the needle valve will increase spool up rate and opening will do the opposite. You should aim to have no more than 6psi at 1500rpm and no more than 10-12psi at 2000rpm otherwise the turbo can go into surge which can decrease the life of the turbo. Also keeping on mind the faster the spool up rate is the higher the fuel consumption seems to be. Upwards of 2000rpm I get 12psi @ 2500rpm
14psi @ 3000rpm
16psi @ 3500rpm. These figures are just as a guide, some people have more or less boost at these points but I find this works well for my driving style. Boost also seems to depend on how much load you have on the vehicle eg when towing the camper trailer and going up a hill or overtaking I can get 14 psi @ 2500 to 2700rpm. It takes abit of time to get the setting just right, to aggressive spoolup and you risk going into limp mode and you also seem to lose abit of low down torque, to slow spoolup and it will drive like a slug untill boost builds. So it's just a bit of trial and error .

Cheers

Jason

fishnsurf
2nd May 2012, 07:06 AM
Thanks ZD30 ,
i am running a bit less than your figures at present but having 2.75 exhaust and tunit chip installed today so will wait and see what happens after that before i tweek it some more..

............. will update results

fishnsurf
2nd May 2012, 07:26 PM
wow what a difference tunit chip and exhaust fitted today about to go for another drive and check boost. i noticed when the guy took it for a test drive he was thrashing it compared to how i drive,i noticed when he was putting his foot down that it would boost to 22ish i never see that when i drive! is that a normal boost when you put your foot down?? under load i boost to approx 3@1500 9@2000 14@3000 16@3600 not sure if i should be adjusting my dawes
..... thanks in advance

ZD30
2nd May 2012, 07:46 PM
If it's not to slugish on takeoff then those figures are fine, if you can get another 3psi @ 1500 and 1-2psi @ 2000rpm you would be spot on but if it drives good as is leave it for a while and see how it goes. As far as 22psi as long as this is just a momentary spike and not holding their it will be fine, although this does seem a bit high even for a spike. Mine will spike to 14-16psi if I trap it then settle and the rise at a linear rate to a max 18psi @ 4000rpm.

fishnsurf
2nd May 2012, 08:52 PM
Just got back from first real drive since chip/exhaust etc ... Yeah those figures before were pre chip/ exhaust i am now boosting 11ish at 2000 and 15 @ 2500 and keeps climbing to 17/18 i need to spend more time adjusting and testing tomorrow.... The 22 was just spiking but the guy testing car was very aggresive on the foot..

Thanks again