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24th May 2017, 09:35 AM
#1
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24th May 2017 09:35 AM
# ADS
Circuit advertisement
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24th May 2017, 09:57 AM
#2
Legendary
G'day and welcome to the forum mate.
Found a upholstery shop that recovers them for $200
We would like to know who that is please.
Whats the best way to compression test from, glow plugs or injectors?
Probably the glow plugs.
Would any one be able to advice on what could cause the crankcase pressure
Crankcase pressure usually is caused by rings worn out, but you say you have done a leak down test and this would normally show if the rings are gone.
2005 GU IV ST 3.0. Snorkel. Roof rack. Awning. Spots. Welded I/C. Dual batteries & VSR. UHF. Barn door hinge extension. Roof top spot lights. Rear drawers. 2" lift. NADS. EGT and boost gauges. Trans temp and water temp gauges. Provent 200 catch can. Rear ladder
And crawling on the planet's face, some insects called the human race. Lost in time. And lost in space... and meaning.
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24th May 2017, 12:23 PM
#3
Thx for the reply 4bye4
I'll get the upholstery shop contacts and post it here soon
The test i've done is a head gasket leak test to check if the head is blown using the tee kay tester kit.
I have a bad feeling about it Any one know the compression values? I'll try and get my hands on a leak down test kit
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24th May 2017, 06:23 PM
#4
Legendary
Hey mate just did a quick search seems 350 is the lower limit, youd be wanting around 400 + psi i reckon with max 40 psi difference, don't have the exact figures hopefully someone will help. Yep definatly glow plugs is easiest on a warm engine & good battery.
Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk
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24th May 2017, 08:21 PM
#5
Originally Posted by
Rossco
Hey mate just did a quick search seems 350 is the lower limit, youd be wanting around 400 + psi i reckon with max 40 psi difference, don't have the exact figures hopefully someone will help. Yep definatly glow plugs is easiest on a warm engine & good battery.
Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk
Thx for the reply Rossco.
Also No lights on the dash. No milky cap, no coolant leaks seen so far. Havent driven it enough to see coolant go down. doesn't over heat. White smoke 100% appeared and now gone. havent driven it since.
Pulled the glow plugs out today and stupid comp tester lead doesnt fit in the glow plug tube so will have to find another. Now can i just put the rocker cover back on and warm the engine at idle without putting the intercooler back on?
This is how they looked
https://ibb.co/hBikAv
Also why is the intake manifold looking like this, all the crap only on one side?
https://ibb.co/dwAbHa
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25th May 2017, 03:57 AM
#6
Expert
Hi Guy
Welcome to the forum!
The glow plug ceramic tips dont look too bad. A bit of deposit on the shanks of 1&4?
I cant answer your question regarding the manifold, as mine was caked in both. I think the EGR is located over the left orifice. has the EGR been blanked on your new truck?
I'm interested to see how this goes...
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29th May 2017, 08:48 AM
#7
Not much has happened over the weekend I'm unable to find that elusive adaptor!! Any ideas where i could get one?
Thx
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30th May 2017, 10:43 AM
#8
Yesterday I replaced the fuel filter, unfortunately the car is still the same. however i came across this (the grey fitting in the fuel supply line)
I've taken it off and replaced with a new fuel hose. Its a one way check valve. the engine bay of the car is covered in red dust except for that so it must have been added recently. any ideas why? Worn IP pump?
I'm not able to do the comp test for a week as im waiting for the adaptor thats coming by post from over east. Any suggestions of what I could try and check till then?
Thx
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30th May 2017, 11:44 AM
#9
Legendary
Originally Posted by
Guyph_01
I've taken it off and replaced with a new fuel hose. Its a one way check valve. the engine bay of the car is covered in red dust except for that so it must have been added recently. any ideas why? Worn IP pump?
I'm not able to do the comp test for a week as im waiting for the adaptor thats coming by post from over east. Any suggestions of what I could try and check till then?
Thx
Are you having hard starting problems when the vehicle has been standing for a while? A check valve is to prevent the fuel returning to the tank and having to be pumped up again every time you start. If all lines and pump is good it should not be required. Somebody may have been trying to correct a problem by treating the symptoms. There is a mod you can do which adds a lift pump near the fuel tank to assist fuel feed to the injector pump. The injector pumps can have trouble "pulling" fuel especially when old and/or old fuel lines.
2005 GU IV ST 3.0. Snorkel. Roof rack. Awning. Spots. Welded I/C. Dual batteries & VSR. UHF. Barn door hinge extension. Roof top spot lights. Rear drawers. 2" lift. NADS. EGT and boost gauges. Trans temp and water temp gauges. Provent 200 catch can. Rear ladder
And crawling on the planet's face, some insects called the human race. Lost in time. And lost in space... and meaning.
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30th May 2017, 12:24 PM
#10
Well since i bought it it starts pretty easy. haven't drove it much yet. I ll try and start it this avo after work as it would have sat for 12hrs then.
Also looking at doing a NADS on it. Fit the dawes valve, oil catch can boost and egt gauge. Could anyone tell me the best spot to put the egt probe on a std exhaust system?
Thx
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