OUR VIDEOS GALLERY MEMBER SPONSORSHIP VENDOR SPONSORSHIP

User Tag List

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 30

Thread: 2008 Patrol Diesel Pump not priming

  1. #11
    Beginner
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Location
    Northern Beaches
    Posts
    22
    Thanks
    4
    Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
    Mentioned
    3 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Bidja View Post
    Question is at warm start up, does it stiil need to crank for several seconds before she starts up.
    Yes. Not as long as cold start, but yes, it takes about 3 seconds crank to start.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bidja View Post
    Understand that CRD will not start until all injectors obtain a even fuel pressure of approx 140MPa (20,000psi).
    How does the engine know what the pressure in different cylinders is? What is this witchcraft?

    Quote Originally Posted by Bidja View Post
    Need for an SME to conduct a return fuel leaking test.
    Sorry what is this SME?


    Quote Originally Posted by Bidja View Post
    May need to consider this.
    I will thank you.

  2. # ADS
    Circuit advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many

     

  3. #12
    Patrol Freak Bidja's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Southern Table Lands, NSW
    Posts
    1,089
    Thanks
    1,183
    Thanked 1,006 Times in 565 Posts
    Mentioned
    37 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    @poddy All good mate, SME is a Subject Matter Expert (eg: workshop that do Diesel fuel injector service / rebuild / repair and that have the tools and test equipment to check the injector serviceability.

    Ring around local area, not sure where you are as someone around the forum may recommend w/shop.

    Look not sure on injector sensors, but imagine a sensor would send signal back to ECU at time when same pressures are achieved in all injectors and initiate start. Others with more smarts may add.

    For Info: My 08 CRD injectors were checked out 12 months back (originals_160,000ks), when fuel pump was replaced and all were within spec and she starts straight away always.

    Have read that acceptance criteria is:
    All 4 injectors _The maximum permissible return volume is 3 times as large as the lowest measured
    Return volume.

    This seems a lot but this is in accordance with Bosh documentation.
    2008 GU WAG ST Manual CRD - To do the job

  4. #13
    Expert pollenface's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    441
    Thanks
    59
    Thanked 201 Times in 143 Posts
    Mentioned
    5 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    It sounds like a candidate for an injector leak test, one of the injectors might be leaking excess fuel pressure via the fuel return line.

    An injector is about $400 on it's own. A mechanic will usually advise/recommend that you have the whole set replaced.
    2008 CRD Auto Wagon
    Factory snorkel, flashlube catchcan pro, 3" manta exhaust, hpd boost controller, dyno-tuned & egr deleted

  5. #14
    Expert
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Location
    queensland
    Posts
    213
    Thanks
    4
    Thanked 52 Times in 40 Posts
    Mentioned
    3 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    has the fuel pressure relief valve on the rail been tested?
    i linked a test method for you
    note: you cant buy the valve from nissan they want to sell a complete rail you'd have to buy a bocsh on part number 1110010018
    it could be an injector but check the fuel pressure relief valve first and then go to the injectors.
    there is also a valve on the injector pump that is common to fail on common rail vehicles but seams to be very rare on zd30 crd patrols but to test that you'd need a computer to monitor the sensors to determine if its out of specifications

  6. #15
    Patrol Freak Bidja's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Southern Table Lands, NSW
    Posts
    1,089
    Thanks
    1,183
    Thanked 1,006 Times in 565 Posts
    Mentioned
    37 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    Unless U already have a scan tool (to read trouble/fault codes), could be a good idea to buy one.

    Many available, UltraGauge EMPlus is the one I use and is not too bad (OBD11 compatible). Apps out there as well.

    http://ultra-gauge.com/ultragauge/ultragauge_wired.htm
    2008 GU WAG ST Manual CRD - To do the job

  7. #16
    Expert pollenface's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    441
    Thanks
    59
    Thanked 201 Times in 143 Posts
    Mentioned
    5 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Fireblade View Post
    it could be an injector but check the fuel pressure relief valve first and then go to the injectors.
    On the contrary, an injector leak test is fairly simple to perform, I would suggest doing that first before moving to the fprv.
    2008 CRD Auto Wagon
    Factory snorkel, flashlube catchcan pro, 3" manta exhaust, hpd boost controller, dyno-tuned & egr deleted

  8. #17
    Expert
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Location
    queensland
    Posts
    213
    Thanks
    4
    Thanked 52 Times in 40 Posts
    Mentioned
    3 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    to me they are both easy and simple tests, but from experience i feel its going to be the fprv. i may be wrong. leak back test is a good thing to be done anyway, cant loose by doing it.

  9. #18
    Beginner
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Location
    Northern Beaches
    Posts
    22
    Thanks
    4
    Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
    Mentioned
    3 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    thanks everyone, I've got the glow plugs on the way, will start with that; Like I mentioned earlier, I already found 1 is cactus (10.52Mohm); I've got a set coming in today, so I will swap them out - move on from there.

  10. #19
    Beginner
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Location
    Northern Beaches
    Posts
    22
    Thanks
    4
    Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
    Mentioned
    3 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Just out of curiosity, when I was pulling the plugs out on the weekend, to check them, they were screwed in pretty loose. I mean, it took no effort to undo them from the block.

    The manual says they should be tightened to 20nm, but when I last pulled them,they came out really easy.


    I don't know what to make of it. Any thoughts?

  11. #20
    Beginner
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Location
    Northern Beaches
    Posts
    22
    Thanks
    4
    Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
    Mentioned
    3 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Bidja View Post
    Unless U already have a scan tool (to read trouble/fault codes), could be a good idea to buy one.

    Many available, UltraGauge EMPlus is the one I use...
    Looks interesting. Do you know if it can read the air intake pressure?

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •