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Thread: Tyre shaving - still around or a lost art?

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    Breadmaker Shaker Plasnart's Avatar
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    Tyre shaving - still around or a lost art?

    Hi all,

    For a number of years now my 'trol has had the dreaded "Patrol wobbles" but they've never been bad enough for me to get off my bum and do something about it. But the 'trol now throws its head like an unbroken brumby, really bad between 80-90km/h.

    I've been slack too and not rotated the tyres for some time but did so on the weekend. It has reduced the severity of the wobbles substantially, but the wobble is still there somewhere in the steering/damper/drag link/panhard/swaybar/pitman arm/lower control arms/bearings or who-knows where!

    Before I start replacing bushes or components though, I need my tyre profiles to be uniform so at least they are smooth and not contributing to the vibrations. At the moment the tyre treads have substantial heel/toe wear (front-to-back wear on the tread blocks). Without uniform tyre profiles I don't think I'll be able to tell whether the work just completed has improved the base cause of the wobbles.

    Check this pic. This is the left rear tyre. I have just driven up my concrete driveway and dirt/dust can be seen on the parts of the tread that have contacted the ground. The black parts have not touched the road/driveway. Scary!!

    thumbnail_processed.jpg

    Anyway, to my question. Are there any tyre shops out there that can still shave tyres? I understand it was a common practice in the days prior to radial tyres but I can't easily see a shop that can still provide this service.

    Cheers.

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    Patrol God nissannewby's Avatar
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    Do a burnout then put the fronts on the rear and do another burnout. All fixed lol. Make sure the surface is flat prior to doing said burnout.

  4. The Following 6 Users Say Thank You to nissannewby For This Useful Post:

    growler2058 (31st March 2021), Hodge (31st March 2021), mudnut (30th March 2021), mudski (30th March 2021), Plasnart (30th March 2021), Rossco (30th March 2021)

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    Breadmaker Shaker Plasnart's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nissannewby View Post
    Do a burnout then put the fronts on the rear and do another burnout. All fixed lol. Make sure the surface is flat prior to doing said burnout.
    Good onya Matty, I knew some braniac would come through with that one!

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    nissannewby (30th March 2021)

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    Patrol God mudnut's Avatar
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    Plasnart (30th March 2021), Truckus (31st March 2021)

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    @ Mudnut....That is what happens when you forget to lock in the front hubs when you heat up a duramax mate

    However, is it possible to switch lefts and rights and rears and fronts over with with other there Plas? The rears if moved to front may need a balance though.

    Just in case some camber wear throwing wheel camber off more?

    This resolved some of the lefties creep and shimmy issues on my 35s for Truckus, but I dont have clearance issues with current set up.
    2005 Y61 GU rebuilt 2020. 6.5 L turbo inter-cooled Diesel, SupENG Superflex 4 Inch Lift Kit 2,0 Remote res Fox shocks, offset trunions, 315/75/16 Maxxis Razr, 16 x 8 steel rims, SupENG drop box, Stedi Spots & bars, 12000 lbs winch,rear locking bars with duel tire carriers, 4 XtremeENG S/S snorkel, rock sliders, SME UHF, ARB Hard mount Air compressor, ARB fwd & rear air lockers,Rhino roof racks, Duel battery set up, 12 V dist swbd ,

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    Breadmaker Shaker Plasnart's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Truckus View Post
    @ Mudnut....That is what happens when you forget to lock in the front hubs when you heat up a duramax mate

    However, is it possible to switch lefts and rights and rears and fronts over with with other there Plas? The rears if moved to front may need a balance though.

    Just in case some camber wear throwing wheel camber off more?

    This resolved some of the lefties creep and shimmy issues on my 35s for Truckus, but I dont have clearance issues with current set up.
    Because it had been so long since I did a rotation I decided on a diagonal rotation pattern. FR to RL. RL to FR. FL to RR. RR to FL.

    That pic of the rear left is after the rotation, so it was on the FR and rotating towards the right of picture previously.

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    Expert Truckus's Avatar
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    OK gotcha, so perhaps a LRear to RRear, and RFront to LFront is worth a try. At least that gives you a baseline for comparison.

    Thats said, yep, that rotation would be the normal way to do that on a sedan, but...and I am just mentioning due to Nissan wheel alignment sets up for Aussie cambered roads, that may be what is giving issues there mate....or perhaps contributing to them.

    Like I said, I recently played this game with my rig with big rubber, and was surprised at the differences made, and may save unneeded drag link adjustments that introduce the whole toe in toe out issues, I don't think castor angle will be in play here, unless the tyres have some funky pre wear.
    Last edited by Truckus; 31st March 2021 at 04:20 PM.
    2005 Y61 GU rebuilt 2020. 6.5 L turbo inter-cooled Diesel, SupENG Superflex 4 Inch Lift Kit 2,0 Remote res Fox shocks, offset trunions, 315/75/16 Maxxis Razr, 16 x 8 steel rims, SupENG drop box, Stedi Spots & bars, 12000 lbs winch,rear locking bars with duel tire carriers, 4 XtremeENG S/S snorkel, rock sliders, SME UHF, ARB Hard mount Air compressor, ARB fwd & rear air lockers,Rhino roof racks, Duel battery set up, 12 V dist swbd ,

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    Breadmaker Shaker Plasnart's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Truckus View Post
    OK gotcha, so perhaps a LRear to RRear, and RFront to LFront is worth a try. At least that gives you a baseline for comparison.

    Thats said, yep, that rotation would be the normal way to do that on a sedan, but...and I am just mentioning due to Nissan wheel alignment sets up for Aussie cambered roads, that may be what is giving issues there mate....or perhaps contributing to them.

    Like I said, I recently played this game with my rig with big rubber, and was surprised at the differences made, and may save unneeded drag link adjustments that introduce the whole toe in toe out issues, I don't think castor angle will be in play here, unless the tyres have some funky pre wear.
    Yeah it's only got a 2" lift and I didn't go with drop boxes. Honestly I haven't had it aligned for ages so I don't know the camber settings etc. so maybe an alignment is in order so I can see where things are at.

    But there is a shimmy in the front end somewhere, caused by some thing. I think I've exacerbated the effects by being lazy and not rotating rubber, and therfore exaggerated the shimmy with "shimmied" rubber. Does that make sense??

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    Expert Truckus's Avatar
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    Sure I get the shimmy on shimmy analogy.

    I recently had to get that sorted as well as part of an alignment (with Truckus lift, needed additional offset in the king pins swivel hub assembly, we already have longer radius arms and drop boxs for the geometry of the steering and drive line).

    Evidently the greatest shimmy gremlin is king pin shim related.

    Some handy viewing for checks, maybe that may help too.



    2005 Y61 GU rebuilt 2020. 6.5 L turbo inter-cooled Diesel, SupENG Superflex 4 Inch Lift Kit 2,0 Remote res Fox shocks, offset trunions, 315/75/16 Maxxis Razr, 16 x 8 steel rims, SupENG drop box, Stedi Spots & bars, 12000 lbs winch,rear locking bars with duel tire carriers, 4 XtremeENG S/S snorkel, rock sliders, SME UHF, ARB Hard mount Air compressor, ARB fwd & rear air lockers,Rhino roof racks, Duel battery set up, 12 V dist swbd ,

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    Breadmaker Shaker Plasnart's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Truckus View Post
    Sure I get the shimmy on shimmy analogy.

    I recently had to get that sorted as well as part of an alignment (with Truckus lift, needed additional offset in the king pins swivel hub assembly, we already have longer radius arms and drop boxs for the geometry of the steering and drive line).

    Evidently the greatest shimmy gremlin is king pin shim related.

    Some handy viewing for checks, maybe that may help too.



    Thanks mate. Jeez after reading your posts today my shimmy suddenly feels insignificant. Nevertheless your post above has reminded me the mob I currently use for mechanical work (very occasionally) did remove a king pin shim about 3 years ago and I complained about shimmy after that. Can't remember why they pulled it out but might need to replace it perhaps.

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