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Thread: GU centre console removal

  1. #21
    Moderator MudRunnerTD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gubigfish View Post
    I'm trying to do this to get to the back of the centre console so I can mount my new UHF there. I've removed the first bit undid the screws mentioned but it still seems to be held in by something. Any ideas? Looks like someones tried to staple the base I can see two divets with what looks like staples in them, its the only thing I can think off thats still holding the centre console in place.

    Have you undone the 2 screw bolts in the bottom of the actual console? 2 in the bottom and 2 under the ashtray.
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    gubigfish (20th November 2016)

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  4. #22
    Patrol Guru gubigfish's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD View Post
    Have you undone the 2 screw bolts in the bottom of the actual console? 2 in the bottom and 2 under the ashtray.
    Yeah I found some extra ones under the lid at the back above where an ashtray could go and once I removed that the back of it was able to be removed and found the 2 at the back of the centre console.

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    2004 4.2TDi GU ST Ute, 3" Exhaust, UHF, Lightforce Spotties, BFG All Terrains, Steel Winchbar, Winch, Dual Batts, CC Ultimate IC, 4" Snorkel, XLR8 Steps and Scrub bar

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    Has anyone removed the panel in front of the centre console that has the sub tank switch and power outlet in it? I guess the centre console has to come out to do it?
    cheers
    Lana

  6. #24
    Patrol Guru gubigfish's Avatar
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    If your talking in front of the gear stick leaver you need to take the shroud off, 4 screws 2 on each side and one in the ashtray. Should be pretty obvious after that.
    2004 4.2TDi GU ST Ute, 3" Exhaust, UHF, Lightforce Spotties, BFG All Terrains, Steel Winchbar, Winch, Dual Batts, CC Ultimate IC, 4" Snorkel, XLR8 Steps and Scrub bar

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    shantillylais (25th June 2017)

  8. #25
    The master farter
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    Quote Originally Posted by gubigfish View Post
    If your talking in front of the gear stick leaver you need to take the shroud off, 4 screws 2 on each side and one in the ashtray. Should be pretty obvious after that.
    and remember to unplug the ash tray light before removing the console out. Mine finally busted after forgetting on numerous occasions.

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    shantillylais (25th June 2017)

  10. #26
    Travelling Podologist Cuppa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudski View Post
    Yeah that Baintech USB socket is crap. Useless for charging as its only 1amp. My tablet and phone will still go flat when plugged into it. Need a minimum of 2amp these days. Something else to change....
    Same deal with this Narva USB socket I fitted into my second glovebox.

    screenshot_1003.jpg

    Can anyone recommend a dual USB socket to replace it which WILL charge a tablet being used (& preferably with a phone plugged in too)?

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  11. #27
    The master farter
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cuppa View Post
    Same deal with this Narva USB socket I fitted into my second glovebox.

    screenshot_1003.jpg

    Can anyone recommend a dual USB socket to replace it which WILL charge a tablet being used (& preferably with a phone plugged in too)?
    @jaysee. He got a hold of a 3.5a one I believe. 3.5a would be perfect.

  12. #28
    Expert Mike02Ti's Avatar
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    @Cuppa check out jaycars website there is a few they stock now rated at 2.1 amp per output so a total of 4.2 amp. I put 2 lots in mine for the kids ipads (ipad 4 and ipad air) and they work well...... providing the kids havent stuffed the cables up they use 😩. Thats another drama

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  13. #29
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    The slight issue with 2.1A socket is they work fine if your not using a power hungry app like mapping software. I have a 2A socket in the rear and it wont charge my tablet if Im using Memory map. If using my 3A ciggie socket to USB Adpator the tablet will charge.

  14. #30
    Travelling Podologist Cuppa's Avatar
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    Thanks Mark & Mike, have just ordered one from my local Jaycar outlet. New model - will take 3 days to get it in. Comes with panel & surface mount & looks like it should fit the same as the existing one.

    Older model with same 4.2a output is on special at the moment, but I wasn't sure if it had the same mount as my existing one - so paid a bit more for the new one which does. Probably a good buy for anyone who doesn't need the extra 'plastic surround' though.

    Photo of my existing one, just 'cos I'm not sure which is the 'Panel' mount, & which is the 'Surface' mount, although I'm guessing mine is 'Panel'.

    IMG_6929.jpg

    2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
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