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Thread: GU ZD30 Auto oil change

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    GU ZD30 Auto oil change

    Hi all,
    I had a previous thread about shearing the flex plate, I've started this as it's a bit more specific.

    I've sourced a low km box, torque converter and flex plate to go back in. I'm thinking it's a good time to change the auto fluid.

    Would I be right to do the following:
    Drain oil
    Remove pan
    Wash filter
    Reinstall pan
    Check torque converter depth
    Remove torque converter and drain
    Refill torque converter with new oil and reinstall using original spacers etc
    Make sure torque convertor depth is identical to previous.
    Top up gearbox with oil (depending on how much I get in torque converter) keeping under 12L (dry fill capacity)
    Start engine, run through gears and top up as necessary.

    Have I missed anything? Or anything to watch out for?

    Thanks in advance.

    Justin.

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    Patrol Freak jff45's Avatar
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    Justin, that pretty much covers it but I would consider popping a new seal into the oil pump while the TC is out.
    Also, if you're getting that close to a complete oil flush, I would refill with synthetic fluid. I buy Nulon synthetic in 20L drums.

    Measuring the TC depth is very important but it's also important to ensure that it hasn't moved forward since its removal. Minimum depth is somewhere around 20mm (from bellhousing to flat face of mounting lug) so if you can't get that, wriggle it in until it goes deeper.. then write it on the TC so you don't forget
    John

    2001 GUII TI 4500 - Now converted to TD42T auto with Nomad valve body

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    Quote Originally Posted by jff45 View Post
    Justin, that pretty much covers it but I would consider popping a new seal into the oil pump while the TC is out.
    Also, if you're getting that close to a complete oil flush, I would refill with synthetic fluid. I buy Nulon synthetic in 20L drums.

    Measuring the TC depth is very important but it's also important to ensure that it hasn't moved forward since its removal. Minimum depth is somewhere around 20mm (from bellhousing to flat face of mounting lug) so if you can't get that, wriggle it in until it goes deeper.. then write it on the TC so you don't forget
    Thanks heaps John, took your advice on this thread and the other one.
    After a big weekend, she's up and running again. 🍺🍺
    I got a good condition, low km box, drained all the oil including tc. Replaced input shaft seal of gearbox and refilled it with penrite atf full synthetic.

    The specs for tc placement say the distance between the Tc and bell housing face should be greater than 18.1mm to avoid damage.
    I felt three distinctive clunks while seating the tc. Bit of lithium grease on the spigot and I was amazed at how easy the whole setup popped onto the back of the motor.

    Took her for a run and all seems well, shifts much nicer than the old one.

    Thanks again John.

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    jff45 (19th December 2016)

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    Patrol Freak jff45's Avatar
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    Certainly sounds like you know what you're doing. Good to hear you recovered from it all without too much pain..
    John

    2001 GUII TI 4500 - Now converted to TD42T auto with Nomad valve body

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