Concreting indoors

[mudski]

Anyone done this?
I’m going to remove the tiles in our entrance, because its stuck in the 70's, like the rest of the house lol. But the concrete underneath is lower than the adjoining room by about 50mm. So I need to level it up. I worked out the area will require about half a cubic metre of concrete.
Will this be the best option or should I be doing it another way?

Once it level I will be laying a timber floating floor over this area and into the adjoining room. Then plastering the walls.

Cheers
IMG_1356.JPG


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[0-TJ-0]

Just been looking into this coz I just ripped my shower out..

Looks like you just use a screed.. like a dryish concrete mix. 4/1 sand to concrete ratio at like a wet sand mix. You can also use a product on top of your slab to help the bond.

This is only from my google research haha.. use at your own peril.

20190905_161313.jpg

[rusty_nail]

i have seen it done in the past in a shop. you can buy a mix of "self levelling" concrete. essentially it is just a wet mix of conc, but due to the wetness it levels itself.

[rusty_nail]

something like this i believe

https://www.bunnings.com.au/lanko-20...eller_p0966662

[PeeBee]

Mark, I have executed around 100 slab upgrades over the years so can pass along some learnings. If the slab is 50mm, which it looks like its less from the photos, you are on a hiding to none - it will crack and fall apart. There isn't enough depth for any reo, and you need it for any cement base product. The interface will be a distinct problem as the slab will dry out quicker on the concrete side as the concrete tries to dry. Your surface needs to be scabbled and very coarse. If this was a floor I was doing, it would get a scabble, or at worst a rough grind, then around the edges I would have some low level anchors punched into the floor like ramset nails so you get a mechanical key, then the surface would be primed with a penetrant sealer, then the floor would be coarse filled with a synthetic aggregate that has a primary layer of coarse material to bring the floor up to say 3-5mm below finished height. From there a primer is applied after a night of curing, a second layer of material of finer aggregate is applied, could be trowelled or could be a pour on self levelling/semi levelling applied. This will give you a brilliantly flat base to work with. I know you said its going to have a floating floor, but if you prep it right, the job will be magnificent. This is the same prep for a commercial vinyl floor, tile floor, synthetic floor etc.

I have been thru this recently at home where we laid Karndean plastic boards over the top of tiles. The tradesman was spectacular in every sense. He ground the tiles first to break the polish/surface, then to get all the high spots off, then he did a primary floor level with self levelling grout, followed by another full day of grinding and re-levelling, then, and only when he was happy the floor was level and free from any grout lines - these will show up on direct layed floors, he started the plank laying.

He did a massive living/kitchen/laundry and 2 bathroom/ ensuites, and 3 billion cut-ins, took him 8 days. It is a perfect job in every way, but the foundation is the base floor. I am going to get him back for upstairs and thats a timber floor and creaky and un-level. It wont be cheap but it will be perfect. Spend the money on the base and you will reap the results 10 fold. If you want this guys details I can dig them out, highly recommended. Hope this helps!

[jay see]

What if you build it up using a timber frame. Then you can run your boards over that. Only thing is you might have different sounds as you walk over it

Sent from my A1601 using Tapatalk

[mudski]

i have seen it done in the past in a shop. you can buy a mix of "self levelling" concrete. essentially it is just a wet mix of conc, but due to the wetness it levels itself.

something like this i believe

https://www.bunnings.com.au/lanko-20...eller_p0966662

I saw this, I reckon I'd need a lot of bags to make up half metre of conc. Plus the depth I have too Nic. Is near 50mm.

Mark, I have executed around 100 slab upgrades over the years so can pass along some learnings. If the slab is 50mm, which it looks like its less from the photos, you are on a hiding to none - it will crack and fall apart. There isn't enough depth for any reo, and you need it for any cement base product. The interface will be a distinct problem as the slab will dry out quicker on the concrete side as the concrete tries to dry. Your surface needs to be scabbled and very coarse. If this was a floor I was doing, it would get a scabble, or at worst a rough grind, then around the edges I would have some low level anchors punched into the floor like ramset nails so you get a mechanical key, then the surface would be primed with a penetrant sealer, then the floor would be coarse filled with a synthetic aggregate that has a primary layer of coarse material to bring the floor up to say 3-5mm below finished height. From there a primer is applied after a night of curing, a second layer of material of finer aggregate is applied, could be trowelled or could be a pour on self levelling/semi levelling applied. This will give you a brilliantly flat base to work with. I know you said its going to have a floating floor, but if you prep it right, the job will be magnificent. This is the same prep for a commercial vinyl floor, tile floor, synthetic floor etc.

I have been thru this recently at home where we laid Karndean plastic boards over the top of tiles. The tradesman was spectacular in every sense. He ground the tiles first to break the polish/surface, then to get all the high spots off, then he did a primary floor level with self levelling grout, followed by another full day of grinding and re-levelling, then, and only when he was happy the floor was level and free from any grout lines - these will show up on direct layed floors, he started the plank laying.

He did a massive living/kitchen/laundry and 2 bathroom/ ensuites, and 3 billion cut-ins, took him 8 days. It is a perfect job in every way, but the foundation is the base floor. I am going to get him back for upstairs and thats a timber floor and creaky and un-level. It wont be cheap but it will be perfect. Spend the money on the base and you will reap the results 10 fold. If you want this guys details I can dig them out, highly recommended. Hope this helps!

Phil the photo doesn't show the true depth. The tile you can see is near 50mm thick and half of is below the level you can see. Then theres around another 25mm under this to the existing concrete base.

What if you build it up using a timber frame. Then you can run your boards over that. Only thing is you might have different sounds as you walk over it

Sent from my A1601 using Tapatalk

I thought of this too, but yeah the sound difference will be annoying.

I think TJ's idea of a screed might be the go. I might have to ring the local concrete mob and see what they have to say. I'm just busting to get these damn ugly tiles up and then I can plaster over the bricks and bring the entrance area into atleast the 90's.

[MudRunnerTD]

Madness. What a lot of stuffing around. Waste of time and money mate.

You need 50mm plus the floating floor or including the floating floor?

Graded Battens straight on top of the tiles. No brainer mate. The sound will be pretty solid as the Battens are straight on the slab rather than spanning.

If your really concerned just 20mm yellow tongue floor over 20mm Battens. Then floating floor. If you want to deaden it more out double thick yellow tongue.

Leave the tiles there mate. Pointless pulling the up. Straight over the top. Go.

[MudRunnerTD]

Looking at the pic. Are the tiles on a wet bed? So you want to smash out the wet bed too? They look higher in the pic?

If your committed to scrabbling out the tile bed then Battens down on the slab. I am in over 500 houses a year mate and walk on plenty of floating floors, I stamp my feet in every house to determine structure and Battens on slab sounds solid mate. No way I would screed that.

[Hodge]

I can't speak for levelling the gap in floor.
But...

Leave the tiles. IMO.
Our whole ground floor was tiles..and I laid floating floor straight over the top,the whole area . Insulation ,then boards right over the top. Been perfect for 10 years the only time it makes a sound while walking on it , is if it's stupidly hot 35+ inside as they expand.