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Thread: Harrop 2300 supercharger to Optimiser 6500

  1. #541
    ......... MB's Avatar
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    Harrop 2300 supercharger to Optimiser 6500

    Looking Great Philstar
    Only my Nuffy opinion for weight saving Da Beaut Beast Brother
    There in theory could be another way instead of utilising full length leftover checker plate steel plates both top and bottom (totally understand your forward HC driving snagging smooth deflection log logic)
    I believe/hope leaving your new sliders undersides open for cleaning/rust purposes could benefit from this wacky theory
    Weld the beaut kit fully up, yes, weld atop leftover checker plate
    In theory, again, simply weld in short flat bars say 30mm wide x say 3mm thick x slider width underneath @ say 45 degree deflection bars/plates at every round RHS intersection:



    Best MB AutoCad/Solidworks capabilities

    EDIT: Apologies Philstar, meant CHS pipe

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    Last edited by MB; 29th April 2024 at 08:44 PM.

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  3. #542
    Patrol Guru BrazilianY60's Avatar
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    Or both sides to account for when he is reversing.
    1997 Blue Nissan Patrol Y60 blacktop TD42 - Honey Badger (build thread)
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    MB (30th April 2024), PeeBee (30th April 2024)

  5. #543
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    Thanks Mark, yes that will work also, sealing it up has some issues if the welds crack or I dont do a good job on the checkerplate. I dont need the weight as you mention. Back at the computer again after 4 days off, so into the soup for now. Looking at some troubleshooting on the interchiller pump, might be voltage related - going to try with a very locat battery and with luck it starts pumping. Can you believe there is no after sales support by way of seals or pump kits for a $1000 pump - answer coming back is bin it and buy another one - its run maybe 30 hrs max. Appalling.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BrazilianY60 View Post
    Or both sides to account for when he is reversing.
    Another good optimisation, thanks.

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    MB (30th April 2024)

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    Sorted the Interchiller pump out today, conductor size and volt drop. Rigged up a 200a/hr lithium and short heavy cables, fired the pump up, guaranteed 40lpm by the flowmeter thru the system, happy days, just needs some more heavy duty wiring and relay to resolve completely - one more bee sting sorted. Happy happy days I can assure you.
    Last edited by PeeBee; 30th April 2024 at 09:16 PM.

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  11. #546
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrazilianY60 View Post
    Or both sides to account for when he is reversing.
    Perfect Point BZ Brother
    Different Cultures I’m assuming, uz Aussie’s only ever go forward, never backwards….unless we are suckered into LandCrab Tradie Ute Territory’s


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  13. #547
    Patrol Guru BrazilianY60's Avatar
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    LOL, gold mate!
    Usually you only think of going backwards is when you are already stuck, LOL.
    1997 Blue Nissan Patrol Y60 blacktop TD42 - Honey Badger (build thread)
    2006 White Nissan Patrol Y61 TB45 - G-Unicorn (build thread)
    1997 Red Suzuki Samurai Canvas Top SJ413 - Tatui
    2005 White Toyota Landcruiser FZJ105 - Stormtrooper

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    Interchiller wiring finally resolved, bigger cables, big relay, runs beautifully, see if it delivers, swapping out the water or glycol this arvo.

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    Looks like I am up for a new or remodelled interchiller tank. The location of the tank outlet was deliberately put at 1/3 off the bottom of the tank to reduce any drawdown of crap into the pump inlet. I am now finding the available head above the tank outlet is absolutely zero tolerance between 40lpm lpm flow and 12-18lpm fluctuating if the water level drop by as little as 15mm. I have been looking at flow meters and current draw and temperatures achieved and they are all over the place.

    Anyway its not a massive issue in the scheme of things, either make a new tank or whip the existing out and add a lower outlet - just time once again.

    So with the flow at 40lpm and the full divert of the water flow thru the interchiller(gas/water heat exchanger) I am getting a good heat reduction in the inlet air post the w2A unit in the inlet manifold. I am able to wash off up to 60 degC from the inlet air post compression, which is great. Makes a big difference in 40 degC days to cruising egt's. Still not great for low range crawling stuff , but the water spray bar on the radiator works very well to keep those blips in check with minimal water consumption.
    Last edited by PeeBee; 2nd May 2024 at 06:54 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by PeeBee View Post
    No just the packing, all loose, tacked them together today, took 20 mins, after spending 7 hrs fighting with the interchiller pump, that has now been 100% confirmed as dead - pumped at 40lpm with a forced inlet and shot water across the road maybe 6m, but hooked up with a hose system thru the heat exchangers and zero - reckon the seals on the impellar are shot - waiting to hear if a kit is avail - hope so, pump was close to $1000 at the time.Attachment 88002
    Ghee mate! I reckon that bloke who made those for you was scared of the dark! There is a few extra noggins in there! I see Heavy...Is it Tube or Pipe? I smooth plated the underside so they slider over mud etc and the checker doesnt jag on any edges. Checka on top, smooth on the bottom.
    Its a Nissan! =====> Its a Keeper!! ....... Got a TD42 in it BONUS!! ....... I'm a lucky bugger! I've got 2 of em!
    Check out my Toy --> MudRunnerTD's GQ From the Ground Up

    Quote Originally Posted by Rogue Dung Beetle View Post
    Wish it was Nissan though, Toyotas just can't keep up with the Pootrol pace.
    The only good thing about an 80 series is..... the front end?? Wrong!!, the Engine?? Wrong!! the Full Time 4WD system?? Wrong!! Its the NissanPatrol.com.au stubby holder fitted over the transfer lever.
    WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.

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