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Thread: Boost Guidance Needed GU CRD- Progressing thru NADS

  1. #31
    Patrol Freak Bidja's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigguwesty View Post
    Yep it was 12 months ago now.
    Yes got limp going up hills so now back to 15psi.
    And nope to ecu, just tillix alone on standard actuator..
    Mine was 15psi as factory curzing at 100kmh and tillix alone sits on 14-15psi.
    But yea crd doesn't need a slow spool like the di
    Yep thought you dropped your max boost to avoid limp from what you said wk or so back.

    Noted your needle adjust of 1/8 turn off seat. This morn went into town (DAWES @ nom 15psi MAX boost) I closed up needle from current set 0.8 turn off seat (13psi cruise) down to 0.2 of a turn off seat. Max boost lifted slightly (15.5psi) and also cruise 13-14psi at 100km/h - as expected got quicker spool up and feels ok. Yet to long haul.

    Guess I would replicate your set up boost controlled performance if I was to close needle completely and leave solenoid blocked/isolated. Am I understanding correctly?

    Note my turbo arm floated at 0.9 of a turn off needle seat
    2008 GU WAG ST Manual CRD - To do the job

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    BigRAWesty (13th September 2017)

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  4. #32
    Patrol God BigRAWesty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bidja View Post
    Yep thought you dropped your max boost to avoid limp from what you said wk or so back.

    Noted your needle adjust of 1/8 turn off seat. This morn went into town (DAWES @ nom 15psi MAX boost) I closed up needle from current set 0.8 turn off seat (13psi cruise) down to 0.2 of a turn off seat. Max boost lifted slightly (15.5psi) and also cruise 13-14psi at 100km/h - as expected got quicker spool up and feels ok. Yet to long haul.

    Guess I would replicate your set up boost controlled performance if I was to close needle completely and leave solenoid blocked/isolated. Am I understanding correctly?

    Note my turbo arm floated at 0.9 of a turn off needle seat
    Yep if you close the needle you'll get the same setup..
    I'll out the needle back in when the remap gets done.
    I'll be around 20psi then but I'll have a solenode in line to open / close the needle at the flick of a switch.
    So when cruzing it's open and reduced boost to say 13-14psi.
    Close it around town and enjoy the 450Nm and 100 plus Kw..
    Cheers
    Kallen Westbrook

  5. #33
    Patrol Freak Bidja's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigguwesty View Post
    Yep if you close the needle you'll get the same setup..
    I'll out the needle back in when the remap gets done.
    I'll be around 20psi then but I'll have a solenode in line to open / close the needle at the flick of a switch.
    So when cruzing it's open and reduced boost to say 13-14psi.
    Close it around town and enjoy the 450Nm and 100 plus Kw..
    Closed needle yesturday and yep obtained boost figures very close to yours. 15+bit psi max boost /cruise boost 14-15psi. Good run. Did open needle 1/10 turn of seat as do only about 10% town driving at best. Got a good 15 psi max boost & cruise 14 psi at 100kph. Going mnts friday and check for limp(will play). Pretty good handle on it now. Thanks heaps.

    When you get your remap done and back in with needle + solenoid would be real interested at getting detail from you.

    Must say, do very little town driving, live rural and do trips up the mountains (snowies) to fly fish for trout.
    2008 GU WAG ST Manual CRD - To do the job

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    Hi guys, new to all the nads stuff, and lots of acronyms etc to learn as well as figures you all talk about. However, I have also had it suggested to me to get a remap done (pulling power plus egr block). I was going to block the egr at the exhaust manifold when I get exhaust place to weld in a bung for the pyro as well. So things to do etc etc. My question, is in what order to do it without redoing work, eg what is best? dawes/tillex then remap, or can I just go straight remap? My exhaust is already 3" and engine only done 66,800kms. To Kallen, is there anywhere in the Mount where I can get this done or is it reasonably simple (I am ok with old style engines, not so with tech stuff). cheers Lana
    GU8 2012 Simpson anniversary model, 3" redback exhaust, 2nd primary filter (original secondary), provent 200, Scangauge, engine watchdog, remote uhf dash plug, DRL's, pillarpod with pyro and boost, Titan drawer system, tail light upgrade, more to come

  7. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by shantillylais View Post
    Hi guys, new to all the nads stuff, and lots of acronyms etc to learn as well as figures you all talk about. However, I have also had it suggested to me to get a remap done (pulling power plus egr block). I was going to block the egr at the exhaust manifold when I get exhaust place to weld in a bung for the pyro as well. So things to do etc etc. My question, is in what order to do it without redoing work, eg what is best? dawes/tillex then remap, or can I just go straight remap? My exhaust is already 3" and engine only done 66,800kms. To Kallen, is there anywhere in the Mount where I can get this done or is it reasonably simple (I am ok with old style engines, not so with tech stuff). cheers Lana
    Others may disagree but I would suggest get your gauges in (pyro EGT and boost) so you can see what your motor is doing now. Then EGR block and NADS (Dawes/Tillex) your choice, I have Dawes on mine. See what the motor is doing, then the remap. Or if you have plenty of cash just hand it to a reputable tuner and tell them to bring it back done.
    Cheers Tony.


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    2005 GU IV ST 3.0. Snorkel. Roof rack. Awning. Spots. Welded I/C. Dual batteries & VSR. UHF. Barn door hinge extension. Roof top spot lights. Rear drawers. 2" lift. NADS. EGT and boost gauges. Trans temp and water temp gauges. Provent 200 catch can. Rear ladder


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    Quote Originally Posted by Bidja View Post
    Closed needle yesturday and yep obtained boost figures very close to yours. 15+bit psi max boost /cruise boost 14-15psi. Good run. Did open needle 1/10 turn of seat as do only about 10% town driving at best. Got a good 15 psi max boost & cruise 14 psi at 100kph. Going mnts friday and check for limp(will play). Pretty good handle on it now. Thanks heaps.

    When you get your remap done and back in with needle + solenoid would be real interested at getting detail from you.

    Must say, do very little town driving, live rural and do trips up the mountains (snowies) to fly fish for trout.
    Your spool up will be insanely fast, the boost curve would be really steep and it would drop off earlier than usual, and boost bounce in the hills will probably bring on limp mode. Every motor reacts different though. If it were me I would open the needle valve a tad, a little tad, and raise the max boost. 15psi ain't much.

  10. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4bye4 View Post
    Others may disagree but I would suggest get your gauges in (pyro EGT and boost) so you can see what your motor is doing now. Then EGR block and NADS (Dawes/Tillex) your choice, I have Dawes on mine. See what the motor is doing, then the remap. Or if you have plenty of cash just hand it to a reputable tuner and tell them to bring it back done.
    Cheers Tony.


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    Exactly how I would do it. Gauges in first. Well you need them in first anyway before you play around with and boost control. You need to see whats happening.

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  12. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by shantillylais View Post
    Hi guys, new to all the nads stuff, and lots of acronyms etc to learn as well as figures you all talk about. However, I have also had it suggested to me to get a remap done (pulling power plus egr block). I was going to block the egr at the exhaust manifold when I get exhaust place to weld in a bung for the pyro as well. So things to do etc etc. My question, is in what order to do it without redoing work, eg what is best? dawes/tillex then remap, or can I just go straight remap? My exhaust is already 3" and engine only done 66,800kms. To Kallen, is there anywhere in the Mount where I can get this done or is it reasonably simple (I am ok with old style engines, not so with tech stuff). cheers Lana
    Lana, your mods to date are all good (exhaust & provent200) + the Scangauge (to erase possible errors resulting from blocking EGR assy.

    Do agree with 4bye4:

    get your gauges in (pyro EGT and boost) so you can see what your motor is doing now.
    I have Dawes on mine (happy) not saying it is better just went this way as did not compare against Tillex.

    IMO.

    Firstly:

    I installed my egr plate at exhaust manifold same as you are thinking. Only got a few faults early on very rare now (fitted plate when installed 3" exhaust)

    Get your EGR plate, gauges and pyro weld-in boss to suit pyro probe thread (more than likely 1/4" NPT). Suggest you install EGR plate at same time as welding in EGT pyro boss (in dump pipe), as heat shied will need to be removed for both jobs and drilling for install of EGT pyro probe.

    For boost take off, I fitted a Quick Fit Adaptor installed at MAP sensor located front of IC. Adaptor came with a 4mm straight barbed nipple which I fitted a small length of flex tube from adaptor/nipple to a block T piece, the remaining 2 outlets of T: one for boost gauge line and the other for dawes connect (this outlet was initially blocked awaiting install of dawes and needle valve). Able to obtain boost reference before and after manual boost install.

    Look at $$$ for staged approach, maybe you will do gauge install and manual boost control yourself. These are not too difficult to install. Help is around. John

    Note - check IC for leaks mine leaked at 100,000ks.
    2008 GU WAG ST Manual CRD - To do the job

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  14. #39
    Patrol Freak Bidja's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudski View Post
    Your spool up will be insanely fast, the boost curve would be really steep and it would drop off earlier than usual, and boost bounce in the hills will probably bring on limp mode. Every motor reacts different though. If it were me I would open the needle valve a tad, a little tad, and raise the max boost. 15psi ain't much.
    Do understand and working thru the variations provides for good learning..

    Have run 18-21psi max boost / cruise boost 12-13psi @ 100kph. Severe limp @ long hill hauls. Avoid limp open needle too laggy.

    Dawes above 16psi get limp (long hauls).

    Best to date:
    Set Dawes Max Boost 15.5+psi / open needle 0.95 turn to just float turbo arm. Ended up max boost 15.5psi / 0.8 turns of needle with cruise boost of 13psi @ 100kph (good spool rate and responsive). No limp to date.
    2008 GU WAG ST Manual CRD - To do the job

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    thanks guys, I just bought the kit on ebay from Northern4x4, now I see that is mudski
    I cant do the pyro yet until I can get an exhaust place to do it for me, normally I would do it but hurt my hip and lower back so reaching over the mudguard and crawling on the floor is a bit hard atm for this impatient grey haired old chick LOL. What I have noticed is the approx. 2lb pressure difference in boost between the gauge and the scan gauge. The normal gauge is plumbed into the inlet pipe of the intercooler, dont know where the scan gauge gets its reading from. cheers Lana
    GU8 2012 Simpson anniversary model, 3" redback exhaust, 2nd primary filter (original secondary), provent 200, Scangauge, engine watchdog, remote uhf dash plug, DRL's, pillarpod with pyro and boost, Titan drawer system, tail light upgrade, more to come

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    mudski (14th September 2017)

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