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3rd June 2016, 12:53 AM
#31
Patrol Freak
Originally Posted by
alterastro
Thanks for your replies guys.
So if my math is correct I'm drinking 33litres per 100km (in uk money I'm doing 150 miles to a full tank of gas - 80litres) which judging by posts on here is way high!
In the Uk petrol is around the £1.08 per litre (au$2!), yes, really! You don't know how lucky you guys are! Gas is about half price so you can imagine I'd like to get as many miles as possible!
But where do I start?
Cheers
Nick
if your still having problems finding someone to tune your beastie..........
have a look for a Forklift service place........ most of the Komatsu & Cat forklifts (4-8T) use the TB48
as they service he Gas forklifts, they will be able to point you in the right direction for someone to service it for you
Tidy Whitey - 99 GU TD42Ti - Diesel Gas, (GUIV Turbo & Intercooler 8Lb boost), 33" Micky T's Baja MTZ's, Dual Batt's, Cargo Barrier, rear draws, HID Super Oscars, winch, Grinch & witch attached and more goodies to come
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Bigcol For This Useful Post:
jay see (3rd June 2016), taslucas (3rd June 2016)
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3rd June 2016 12:53 AM
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3rd June 2016, 12:45 PM
#32
Patrol God
Originally Posted by
npw112
I don't even run the thing on petrol.
There is your problem, as you need to run petrol too keep the carby components from drying out. It is recommended to start the car on petrol at least once a day.
I think you need to put a carby kit in and see if that helps. Then get it tuned as Col suggested.
Have a look at the section dealing with lpg in this thread:
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...-Helpful-Hints
Last edited by mudnut; 3rd June 2016 at 12:49 PM.
My advice is: not to follow my advice.
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3rd June 2016, 10:43 PM
#33
Patrol Freak
mine was a daily driver (1989 GQ TB42 petrol/Gas)
1 day a week, I would run it on Petrol for the trip home from work
mine was professionally tuned (by a guy who used to race) as I spent most of the time (6.5 days out of 7) on Gas
hence why the Kws were so similar (96Petty / 93 Gas) but I could still spin an 11R15 on a dry bitumen road in Gas when I wanted to
mine was a Carby, with a Sprint Gas Mixer on it
Sprint Gas.jpg
the guy around the corner from me had no end of trouble with his,
he had to start his in Petrol, wait until it warmed up before he could flick it to Gas
to go from Gas to Petrol, he had to be stopped on the side of the road, as it would not switch over right away - as he was going to "fred Nerk Automotive" to get it tuned - as a Gas tuner, he made a great fisherman
mine
start on Gas........
run on Gas.......
flick it from Gas to Petrol while on the move
flick it from Petrol to Gas while on the move
yes I had electronic ignition - (played with an Automag Magneto for awhile, but without success)
yes I had the rotor modified
yes I had top quality Leads
yes I had top quality Gold Tip Plugs (the BPR6E were about $2.20 each I think at the time, and the ones I was getting were around the $10.00 each mark from memory)
yes I had a guy who used to race Gas Cars do my tuning for me - was never successful when I did it
yes we used the proper Lambda gauges to get it running sweet
Tidy Whitey - 99 GU TD42Ti - Diesel Gas, (GUIV Turbo & Intercooler 8Lb boost), 33" Micky T's Baja MTZ's, Dual Batt's, Cargo Barrier, rear draws, HID Super Oscars, winch, Grinch & witch attached and more goodies to come
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4th June 2016, 07:18 AM
#34
Just my 2 cents to fuel the discussion... lol
Now I don't run gas, I am happy with me 1000+ KM's on stock tanks. I do however remember the good old days of running performance cars and while I was a gasser, I did start down the path after seeing many high-performance engines running on BBQ fuel.
Gas needs the following to be efficient:
- A very different ignition curve/profile to petrol.
- Higher cylinder pressures through more boost or high compression ratios.
- Stronger spark to accommodate the higher cylinder pressures and bigger plasma ball on plug gap.
- Good quality mixer and vapouriser if using vapour. (Gas Research were the GO back then)
- Smart ECU tuned for gas.
- Good sealing intake valves, clean induction tract and free of leaks.
- Short induction tracts to avoid bang-bang if it does backfire.
I am looking at possible project to sell my ride (or look at conversion) and step into a GU with a TB45 or TB48 Manual with intentions of forced induction. Yes, I would be going full straight-gas, no petrol.
I don't bother with the "What if you run out of fuel" lines, not the first time a 9KG BBQ cylinder has been used to fix the issue of piss-poor-planning before doing a trip.
The biggest anti-gas reason I see, high prices. 85c/L up here.
There is no legal cure for STUPID!
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