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Thread: Harrop Eaton ELocker Versus GU Family Wagon Auto Hubs

  1. #61
    ......... MB's Avatar
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    All torqued up again:



    Seal housing installed:



    Much happier with the straight line out this time around:





    Bench tested up to 90psi with no leaks, hooray

    Now to bolt it all back together again and hook up some in cab switches and air




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  4. #62
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    Harrop Eaton ELocker Versus GU Family Wagon Auto Hubs

    Quote Originally Posted by Bidja View Post
    Harrop claim a more positive lock engagement and axle rotational lag of max 1/8 turn in lieu of 1/2 turn experienced with earlier design. .....]
    Apologies ‘snippeting/quoting’ here John Mate!
    As per this thread start and top members usage needs, I so wished too for an easier +/- couple of wires to connect activation too on the family touring/hybrid bushpig wagon truckster.
    It is honestly now hopeful as you mention that elecy locking has reduced from 1/2 < > 1/8th of a spin but let’s still equate that up steep hairpin tracks, not straight line beaches and or bull dust deep long power stretching pits.
    Please do correct me if late wrong calculations Brother
    33” say legal tyre = 838mm diameter.
    Circumference = 2,633mm.
    Now a much better designed 1/8th of rotation for lock = 329mm travel.
    As far as I nuffy understand we need to at least double that to (658mm) for a hairpin on/off/on rollback hairpin sometimes needed gnarly climbing turns.
    Absolute bonus for newage elecy systems outback would be zero atmospheric diff intake such as salts etc...

















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    Last edited by MB; 4th December 2020 at 02:12 AM.

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  6. #63
    Patrol Guru Bidja's Avatar
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    All good Mark. IMO, Both locker would satisfy my out and about requirements.
    Straight fwd Harrop ELocker install does appeal. ELocker having no airlines/compressor is the big one for me, easier to twist a couple of wires and being out (mostly alone), ready use spares can be difficult sometimes to ensure availability for repair.

    Rotation comment is fair enough. Noted that Harrop state in their video that their current lock plate design (lugs) being profiled same as those in housing _ that when axles twist/wind up the force applied between the lugs of the lock plate to housing causes the mechanism to mechanically/physically lock solid(unless load comes off). How true not sure.


    Recall many years ago in the SWB having to reverse down a troublesome boulder filled track, needed 3 guys on the bull bar to keep front wheels on the ground (no front locker would have helped me here most likely if by myself)_"Widow Maker" it was called (this one NSW).
    I avoid this carry on.
    2008 GU WAG ST Manual CRD - To do the job

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  8. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudnut View Post
    While you're deciding, could someone please explain which ARB seals fail and allow diff fumes to enter the cabin? And is there a an easy fix, or have they dealt with that issue?
    Hi Mudnut
    My experience.
    I have the first designed rear locker to suit a GQ Patrol.

    The "seals" that fail are the o rings inside the steel collar that moves to lock the diff.
    Over time the o rings will wear/flatten and allow leakage, most noticeable as mentioned by others that the air compressor will cycle more often getting shorter times between operation when the locker is engaged and the "oil fumes" being expelled when disengaging the locker, unless the discharge has been piped outside. Ours is not.

    Why do they wear/flatten? Usage would be the most common, then there is the installation. I think if done correctly then you will get maximum life. Done incorrectly ie. the routing of the copper pipe inside the diff causes unnessacary pressure/distortion on the moving steel collar.

    Easy Fix - That depends on ones experience/ability - O rings have to be replaced. Was the installation done correctly when the locker was installed. I replaced the o rings in our rear locker. Not hard, obviously need the tools and the diff is bloody heavy. The sliding collar can be removed to access the o rings without having the to dismantle the crown wheel and pinion. I sourced o rings from an o ring supplier in Dandenong. Having a compressor to supply 90 psi to test before reinstalling diff is a good idea.

    Have they dealt with the issue? As mentioned I think it comes down to installation, if done correctly then other then long term wear they should last.


    If you look at page 6 of this thread and the picture supplied by MB and zoom in on the steel collar you should be able to see where the 2 o rings are.



    My 2 cents worth

    Cheers Trevor

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  10. #65
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    Harrop Eaton ELocker Versus GU Family Wagon Auto Hubs

    Awesome info thanks too Trevor Mate!
    Hang on to those original lockers there, I hear the competition blokes prefer the oldest sets for slightly greater internal abuse strength preferred than new sets.
    ARB appear to have fixed the Oring issue somewhat these days with a new Quad Oring set found supplied on my last two installs.
    They’re basically still a ring but more of a square profile with two raised edges on each seating side.
    This creates a dual seal on each side of the journal hole now so hopefully we’ll get twice as long between lugging out these bloody heavy diffs again as you kindly mention
    Do have to be super careful too with these new Quad Orings installation as they are fiddly little buggers to ensure they are not twisted or leaning. Use some oil to carefully/lightly twist the seal housing over the journal too.
    Fingers crossed I’ve got it right hopefully

    EDIT: Found a replacement set of the new style Quad Orings online if ever needed:

    https://patrolapart.com.au/product/a...iff-locks-pair

    The ARB ones supplied here were more of a ‘tan/brown’ colour though and felt a lot more rigid than a standard old type ‘black’ rubber Oring if that makes sense.
    What you’ll see in my picture above is the oil used to assist installation squeezing out between the journal seal

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    Last edited by MB; 5th December 2020 at 08:33 AM.

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  12. #66
    Patrol God nissannewby's Avatar
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    The tan/brown and also the ones advertised at patrolapart are viton. Viton is better at maintaining its integrity at higher temperatures than standard nitrile o-rings.

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  14. #67
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    Cheers Always Mat Mate
    ‘Viton’ as you’ve kindly educated here did appear super tough whilst scarily trying to tweak it into the grooves with the edge of my thumb nail, honestly thought I was going to start a nick and no doubt would have on old school Orings.


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  16. #68
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    @Tip12345 Mate, Legends kindly helped me here, not the Dodgey threads that SausageFingersTD created similar whilst snoozing


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