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Thread: 2004 GU IV 3.0l engine troubles, help

  1. #11
    Advanced abw's Avatar
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    I'm not a diesel expert, but maybe leaky injector/s? As above, the check valve was put in to treat a symptom (fuel returning back to the tank). If the injectors are leaky you could lose pressure after sitting for a bit. Just a thought.
    Andrew
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    GU3 Patrol, TB48, 33" muddies. front E-locker. 4.11 diff gears. 2.2 metre steel rack. Awning. Steel rear bar. Safari Snorkel. ARB side steps and brush rails. ARB Deluxe bull bar. Winch. 2" lift.

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  3. #12
    Legendary 4bye4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guyph_01 View Post
    Well since i bought it it starts pretty easy. haven't drove it much yet. I ll try and start it this avo after work as it would have sat for 12hrs then.
    Also looking at doing a NADS on it. Fit the dawes valve, oil catch can boost and egt gauge. Could anyone tell me the best spot to put the egt probe on a std exhaust system?

    Thx

    Mines in the dump pipe just after the turbo outlet. I think it's a good idea to set your gauge up before doing the NADS so you can see what temps you are getting with the factory set up. The position of the probe and even the brand of gauge may change the reading, and if you don't know what it was reading before you won't know what difference you make.



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    2005 GU IV ST 3.0. Snorkel. Roof rack. Awning. Spots. Welded I/C. Dual batteries & VSR. UHF. Barn door hinge extension. Roof top spot lights. Rear drawers. 2" lift. NADS. EGT and boost gauges. Trans temp and water temp gauges. Provent 200 catch can. Rear ladder


    And crawling on the planet's face, some insects called the human race. Lost in time. And lost in space... and meaning.

  4. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4bye4 View Post
    Mines in the dump pipe just after the turbo outlet. I think it's a good idea to set your gauge up before doing the NADS so you can see what temps you are getting with the factory set up. The position of the probe and even the brand of gauge may change the reading, and if you don't know what it was reading before you won't know what difference you make.
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    Good point. Thx for the pic but mine still has the std exhaust system on it. Anyone know if i still need to weld on a fitting or can tap into it somewhere?

  5. #14
    Legendary 4bye4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guyph_01 View Post
    Good point. Thx for the pic but mine still has the std exhaust system on it. Anyone know if i still need to weld on a fitting or can tap into it somewhere?
    You can drill and wld in a thread, or buy a new dump pipe pre drilled with a cap in it. you need to take the heat cover off the exhaust to see what is under it. I gor a new dump pipe and set it up then just changed over. Redarc also make a clamp thingingy but not sure about the resukts of that.
    2005 GU IV ST 3.0. Snorkel. Roof rack. Awning. Spots. Welded I/C. Dual batteries & VSR. UHF. Barn door hinge extension. Roof top spot lights. Rear drawers. 2" lift. NADS. EGT and boost gauges. Trans temp and water temp gauges. Provent 200 catch can. Rear ladder


    And crawling on the planet's face, some insects called the human race. Lost in time. And lost in space... and meaning.

  6. #15
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    Hello Guy,
    I would be interested in knowing about the dash fix. I like yourself have to do a number of post to d/l the manual.
    Just a thanks for the members whom add to the forum..

  7. #16
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    Hi,

    Yes forgot about that.. The company is called Northside Motor Trimmimg. 92473661. I havent used them yet as I'm still trying to figure out whats wrong with the car. Was told about $250-200. If someone gets their dash covered I'd be keen to find out how it turned out

  8. #17
    Expert Daveyboyjunior's Avatar
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    Hi Guy
    I went for the drill and tap option for the fitting of my probe.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    Quote Originally Posted by Daveyboyjunior View Post
    Hi Guy
    I went for the drill and tap option for the fitting of my probe.
    Hummm didnt think of that. Would have saved me the trouble of removing the heat shield, dump and going around looking for a bolt to weld on the exhaust. Oh well, the dump is out now. Ok so whats the best spot to position the prob? I see yours Daveyboyjunior is just before the bend. is that a good spot?



    Also, I've been reading that the accelerator sensor can cause issues. Anyway of testing it with a multi meter like they do with the MAF?

    Thx
    Last edited by Guyph_01; 30th May 2017 at 07:17 PM.

  10. #19
    Expert Daveyboyjunior's Avatar
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    Hi Guy, refer to 4bye4s photo earlier. That's the perfect spot!
    As long as the probe tip achieves centre of the exhaust when installed it can go anywhere around the diameter of the pipe really. Hope that makes sense.
    My doing it this way, did avoid the removal of the heat shield which I know is really awkward with the ac pipes in the way. Perhaps you've got some tips on how you got yours out!
    As for the accelerator sensor causing issues....that's news to me.
    Last edited by Daveyboyjunior; 31st May 2017 at 06:27 AM.

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    Honestly I can't really remember. with some brute force and wiggling it around. No idea if ill be able to put it back it the same way. Had to remove the IC hoses to get to the bolts but everything else wasn't touched.

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