Battery and fridge

[jay see]

Thanks for the input guys.

I've pulled out the aux battery tonight and put it on a 240v charger. Will start with a fresh battery.

Called in to battery world today and was told that my battery is part of the problem that and the solenoid setup is old technology and I should've gone for a bc/dc. Starter battery is good at about 90 odd % aux was at about 50% after the fridge being on since yesterday with a 30 minute drive.

Battery is (see pic) not a deep cycle, but more a continuous use. I was told that because it has cca it's not the best for what I want to use it for.

I think the solenoid setup is enough, but a true deep cycle battery would be better. Will see how it goes with this one after it comes off the charger and no leaving the radio on.

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[GQtdauto]

Yeah I thought it was a crank battery and asked in my first reply , that sort of says a lot about your problem they don't like being drained by constant usage and you can bugger them quick in that application .
If your solenoid is working what does it matter the age and as for the bc/dc charger if your alternator by manufacture won't put out 14.4 volts you might have to go that way .
I'm lucky in that my solar on the roof rack will charge to 14.4 volts and I run a three battery system .

[GQtdauto]

Just read the battery wording and it says it's a continuous use ,high cycle battery so now I'm confused there's a big difference between a crank and deep cycle battery or at least there used to be . Cuppa you're up mate .

[jay see]

Just read the battery wording and it says it's a continuous use ,high cycle battery so now I'm confused there's a big difference between a crank and deep cycle battery or at least there used to be . Cuppa you're up mate .

To me is a mix of both. Which is not what I need. Why the installer went with this battery, I have no idea.

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[jay see]

Alternator is throwing out 14v.

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[Cuppa]

Called in to battery world today and was told that my battery is part of the problem that and the solenoid setup is old technology and I should've gone for a bc/dc.

A possibility, but some places are better at selling gear to folk than they are at diagnosing problems. Take their comments with a pinch of salt & test things methodically. I've seen plenty of R V owners sold $100's, sometime $1000's worth of gear to sort out problems caused by something fixable for a few bucks.

A mate & I helped out a lady a few months ago, with a converted bus after a Battery World store had cost her over $3k in new & supposedly better gear to fix a flat battery problem. Between us we spent a few hours checking out her system & concluded that the still existing problem was in fact caused by a faulty thermostat in her fridge. A new one was sourced from ebay for less than $30 & the problem was completely solved. She was, as you might expect extremely happy & pretty cheesed off at the expensive advice she'd had from Battery World. Not suggesting that this is your problem, just that Battery world in her case found it easier (& profitable) to just sell her stuff in the hope it would work.

[GQtdauto]

Actually the GU when we bought it had a similar if not same battery for dual now I think of it , it was ratshit and positive wires had been cut , I thought it was the older style redarc solenoid to blame and swapped it out but my problem was elsewhere .
You will still have a problem if you can't charge the battery with the right voltage , without running back to check I think it was only about 14.1 from memory but if your spare was down maybe it was reading lower because of that .

[GQtdauto]

Does anyone know if the alternator in this thing only gets to 14. Ish volts .

[jay see]

Yeah, I know cuppa.

I like to take on as much information as possible, then go with what I believe is correct,

A good example of that is I got quoted 1600 for a radio + install for the wifes x5.
After some researching I've discovered that you have to cut into the heater box or install a single din radio. They never said anything about that..

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[PeeBee]

Exide put out a hybrid battery about 15 years ago, it was marketed as a semi deep cycle with cranking ability - or more realistically one foot in each camp, so a compromise. I tried one and to be honest it didn't perform on deep cycle applications, even with shallow DOD, but know of a couple of guys who installed the same battery for a crank application and it seemed to work well, however didn't have the grunt for winching beyond a couple of pulls - recovery seemed to be longer, even with high amp alternators.

The bit that confused me with the label is this battery seems to be able to handle marine, crank and deep discharge. I know a bit about battery construction and all three applications, demand different battery config. In fact, if you install a Century marine battery in your 4wd, then try to do a warranty call on it in your 4wd it will be rejected - know this from a guy who got sold marine batteries under the guise they handle vibration better than the 4wd deep cycles - nope, they don't and no warranty.

Bit of a mystery as ACDelco are a huge company, and you would expect a quality product from them. I buy my batteries from Battery World and reckon my local guys knows his product.

I agree with what @GQtdauto says, the starting point for all this rests with the battery management system you select. 14.3 is merely a feeder voltage to the battery isolator/computer. From here your Dc-DC system should optimise the charger voltage and profile to suit the battery type. I think there is plenty of expertise within the forum to help you get to a point where you are happy. Hope this helps and adds to the picture.