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Thread: Timing cover and backing plate removal

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    The 747 Winnie's Avatar
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    Timing cover and backing plate removal

    Got the front of my engine stripped down a bit this weekend, I am doing it to fix a water leak.
    Over the next couple of days after work I will pull off the front timing cover and when I can get my mechanic mate to guide me I will remove the timing gears, IP and backing plate so I can get to the rest of the O rings and gaskets.

    Is there anything else I should replace or check while I am this far in?



    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

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    Legendary GQtdauto's Avatar
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    Idler pulleys check and lube , the oil feed hose to the back of the alternator make sure it's ok and unless v belts are recent swap out and keep them for spares is all I can think of .
    So your putting a gasket kit in the pump or someone is doing for you ?

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    Smart like tractor Ben-e-boy's Avatar
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    Do you have the gear to get the harmonic balancer off, which you should replace too. Particularly if you have the bad vibrations you have mentioned previously
    Last edited by Ben-e-boy; 19th November 2017 at 05:26 PM.
    96 GQ coil/Cab
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    The 747 Winnie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GQtdauto View Post
    Idler pulleys check and lube , the oil feed hose to the back of the alternator make sure it's ok and unless v belts are recent swap out and keep them for spares is all I can think of .
    So your putting a gasket kit in the pump or someone is doing for you ?
    No the extra gaskets I was talking about are to seal the sandwich plate. The pump is only brand new so it won't be altered at all. I don't want to mess with any settings or timing so will be getting somebody qualified to do that part.

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    GQtdauto (19th November 2017)

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    The 747 Winnie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ben-e-boy View Post
    Do you have the gear to get the harmonic balancer off, which you should replace too. Particularly if you have the bad vibrations you have mentioned previously
    Just a 41mm socket and big breaker bar yeah?
    I don't have the budget for a $500 harmonic balancer, is there a way I can test it while it's off?

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    Administrator AB's Avatar
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    Take your time and I mean a long time mate to ensure all gunk and old gasket material is off from both sides of everything.

    Have you got a torque wrench?

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    The 747 Winnie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AB View Post
    Take your time and I mean a long time mate to ensure all gunk and old gasket material is off from both sides of everything.

    Have you got a torque wrench?
    Yeah I do mate and will be doing everything up to spec.

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    AB (19th November 2017)

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    Smart like tractor Ben-e-boy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Winnie View Post
    Just a 41mm socket and big breaker bar yeah?
    I don't have the budget for a $500 harmonic balancer, is there a way I can test it while it's off?
    Yeah, don't forget the crank nut it tightened to over 300Nm, it's also on a taperlock.
    If the rubber on the balancer is cracked, hardened or deteriorated in any way it needs to be replaced,
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    Winnie (19th November 2017)

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    Patrol Freak jff45's Avatar
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    I did mine not long ago to fix a leak between the plate and the block. It's the 2 o'rings that harden and flatten over time. Mine's the T engine so it's a 55mm crank nut & 500 nm torque. It's also auto so no way of doing it properly without taking the engine out.
    At my age, I just couldn't see myself trying to work over the bullbar or on the ground.
    It's not always easy to get the tapered cone on the crank to let go. I'm sure you know that you don't use a puller on the crank pulley. It just slides off once the cone is out.

    It's not a difficult job if you get your timing lined up first. The longest thing to do is getting the old gasket scraped off.
    The pump gear comes off easily if you use 2 of the longer 8mm bolts from the cover. just wind them into the threaded holes until it pops. Leave the nut loosely on.
    When the timing is on TDC, the woodruff key is at 11 o'clock so little risk it will drop out.

    I took a few pics of mine if you want to see them..
    John

    2001 GUII TI 4500 - Now converted to TD42T auto with Nomad valve body

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    The 747 Winnie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jff45 View Post
    I did mine not long ago to fix a leak between the plate and the block. It's the 2 o'rings that harden and flatten over time. Mine's the T engine so it's a 55mm crank nut & 500 nm torque. It's also auto so no way of doing it properly without taking the engine out.
    At my age, I just couldn't see myself trying to work over the bullbar or on the ground.
    It's not always easy to get the tapered cone on the crank to let go. I'm sure you know that you don't use a puller on the crank pulley. It just slides off once the cone is out.

    It's not a difficult job if you get your timing lined up first. The longest thing to do is getting the old gasket scraped off.
    The pump gear comes off easily if you use 2 of the longer 8mm bolts from the cover. just wind them into the threaded holes until it pops. Leave the nut loosely on.
    When the timing is on TDC, the woodruff key is at 11 o'clock so little risk it will drop out.

    I took a few pics of mine if you want to see them..
    Thanks for that info mate. My mate it coming around on Wednesday to strip down the last bit for me and I'll use the rest of the week to get rid of the old gaskets etc and Saturday we will start putting it back together.

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