Wont' boost EGTs up out of ideas?

[10G]

Thanks for your help Bidja, much appreciate it.

[10G]

Are these the 2 vacuum hoses under the IC? I'm pretty sure they are (see below). They seem to be in good condition. I cannot see where they plug into on the lower ends. Too hard to change I reckon, I'll leave 'em for now and if I get very very stuck for ideas I might swap them then.

20190216_124104.jpg

[10G]

This is a useful image as well. Hover over the part numbers and it tells you what they are:

https://nissan-europe.epc-data.com/p...l/223/14866VA/

[threedogs]

What motor and is your IC oily

[10G]

the ball in the dawes valve has been known to push through the spring , might be worth checking . it happened on mine whilst setting it up .

I have zero experience on these but no one else is helping..

I think you might be onto something with the blockage.. extra exhaust pressure may cause extra blow by and raise your crankcase pressure causing your oil/catch can issues and it would definitely stop your turbo from spooling nicely.

Check your exhaust then if that doesn't solve it maybe check the turbo is okay and compression test.

What motor and is your IC oily

G'day TD. ZD30, IC is pretty clean.

Replaced 2 vac hoses and took it out and it went great, was back to normal. Gave it a bit more to check it out and it's gone to crap again.

Just about to check the dawse valve

[Bidja]

Are these the 2 vacuum hoses under the IC? I'm pretty sure they are (see below). They seem to be in good condition. I cannot see where they plug into on the lower ends. Too hard to change I reckon, I'll leave 'em for now and if I get very very stuck for ideas I might swap them then.

20190216_124104.jpg

This solenoid operates the swirl valve, linked to EGR sys. Some block this off so the throttle plate in inlet manifold remains open always (when EGR is blanked off (EGR plate solid). This hose will be OK. Also with remap this is turned off along with EGR sys valve. There is a resistor mod to turn off swirl valve, have a read of this but continue with what U are doing going thru the list and note things down.

https://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/3-li...ve-mod-402763/

Craig(skegbudley) is a good hand.

Good you took your IC off how does it look and did U check the actuator operation at idle?

By the way have been doing lots of adjustment over last few months with actuator rod lengths (changes vac required to lift lever to hit stop), so I have rod measurements here that gives nom 14 inches of mercury (14 "Hg) which pretty ideal. Range is 11-15"Hg we will get to that if needed. I have a hand operated vac pump that I use to adjust rod.

Been in shed just got 3 fan belts off '99 Navara farm ute, one to pwr steering unit wrapped it self around the fan hub home stretch now...

Edit: Just read post U just did looking good mate

[10G]

Thanks for all the help.

I',m not sure on readjusting the needle valve. You turn it until the actuator rod just lifts up & then back it off don't you?

Just started the car, boost gauge on 0 at idle, left for 3 mins, boost gauge drops to -12. Take for a drive and is crap.

[Bidja]

If leaving dawes at 15 psi (prefer to go to say 16psi) but leave at 15 for the moment.

CRD can handle max spool so screw needle right in (closed),
Start engine and at idle start to open needle slowly, watch actuator rod and when it just start to drop (eg: lever just comes off stop grub screw), then turn needle back in about 1/8 - 1/4 turn.

This will give good spool and you can adjust further from there as suits.

When comfortable close needle fully. Find a hill that gives say 60-70% eng load, drive up in third gear @ 3000rpm and adjust Dawes (max boost) to where no limp occurs and then do needle adjustment as described above for spool that suits. Suggest max boost up around 16psi, some go higher but when under load conditions(towing) this is where limp will occurs.

Edit: Have to make sure your actuator is working properly, diaphragm maybe leaking. Just set it up as above have to go to shed for a while.

[10G]

Well good news.

Replaced 2 more vacuum hoses, one was the boost gauge. Discovered the markers I had set for the needle valve when we first put it in, set the needle valve at that. Took it for a drive and all is well, it's flying. Gave it a good work out and am happy that it's sorted.

It's very responsive, boost peaks regularly at 16 and spikes up to 18, but it really is a spike, it immediately drops back down to 16.

EGTs are back in the safe zone, low 300s at 100kmh on flat, mid 300s at 110kmh. Got to around 410-420 at 90kmh up a hill in 4th. I'm happy with all that.

I think it's actually slightly more responsive. I did have some old dicky hose on there from the install, I forgot we ran short then and used some 2nd hand stuff, I guess it just got too old.

Thanks everyone for the great help, especially you Bidja, beers on me when we meet up mate, thanks.

And the -12 on the boost gauge is an electrical problem, I'll worry about that later. Boost gauge and Torque app on phone showed same boost once I fiddled with the gauge.

[10G]

And that knocking, rattling noise has gone pretty much.