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Thread: Clutch Pedal Adjustment?

  1. #1
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    Clutch Pedal Adjustment?

    Just wondering if there is anyone adjustment for where the 'clutch' pedal grabs on an rb30 GQ. My clutch isn't slipping, is only 10k kms old, but was like this before and after replacement.

    It only grabs quite close to the top (that is, closest to the drivers seat). Is this how it's meant to be?

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  3. #2
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    Bump.

    Still have this issue, but now the clutch is starting to slip slightly. It feels (to me a layman), that because it's grabbing so late in the pedal travel, it's almost not fully disengaging (and now with a bit of wear and tear is starting to slip slightly). The clutch was a HD one supplied and installed by a very reputable 4b mechanic. While the car has sat in water once, that was 8 months ago, has done close to a dozen trips since including a couple towing a 1.5tonne camper, and has never slipped before.

    Driving last night wasn't particularly harsh, so I guess I don't really see it being a worn clutch, and perhaps hoping it's as per my idea before of the pedal not fully disengaging.

  4. #3
    Patrol God mudnut's Avatar
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    So you've bled the clutch and checked the slave cylinder is fully releasing?
    My advice is: not to follow my advice.

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    Don't think I'd need to bleed the clutch? Isn't that normally associated with not being able to clutch/change gears?

    How do I check the slave is fully releasing?

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    The 747 Winnie's Avatar
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    I'm not sure about the RB30 but I think they use the same hydraulic system as the TD42.
    There is some adjustment behind the master cylinder. Undo the two bolts and you can pull the master out of the way without losing any fluid. You can screw the push rod in behind it and that will give you a bit of adjustment.

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    Patrol God mudnut's Avatar
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    The manual states that a clutch slips because it is oil soaked. Diaphragm spring weak or damaged. Flywheel warped. Debris in master cylinder preventing full return.
    Hydraulic line damage. binding in the release mechanism. So my question stands, have you verified the slave cylinder is returning to its fully released position? Bleeding the clutch just makes it operate correctly, so you know there is no problem and it takes bugger all time to do.
    My advice is: not to follow my advice.

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    Patrol God mudnut's Avatar
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    Mine is not vacuum assisted so the only adjustment is at the top of the pedal arm under the dash. Pull the plastic plug out of the bottom of the bell housing and check if there is oil in there. If there is then my bet is it is slipping because of contamination. I took the van out and purposefully accelerated and decelerated and slipped the clutch to burn off the oil. It took about ten minutes.
    My advice is: not to follow my advice.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mudnut View Post
    Mine is not vacuum assisted so the only adjustment is at the top of the pedal arm under the dash. Pull the plastic plug out of the bottom of the bell housing and check if there is oil in there. If there is then my bet is it is slipping because of contamination. I took the van out and purposefully accelerated and decelerated and slipped the clutch to burn off the oil. It took about ten minutes.
    I'll check for contamination. Slave cylinder is the rod that comes out on the drivers side of the gearbox, with the rubber boot to stop stuff getting in? So with nobody pressing the clutch, that should be able to move slightly i take it?

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    Patrol God mudnut's Avatar
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    Yep. the little rod is moved by the slave cylinder which is bolted to the side of the housing.

    When you push on the pedal the rod pushes on the end of the clutch fork, which releases the clutch.

    I just slid under the Old Trol and found that in the fully released position there is a gap of about 8-10mm between the back of the clutch fork and the housing.

    I can press the fork a few mm toward the rear of the vehicle and it springs back to the same position.
    My advice is: not to follow my advice.

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    Alright, thanks @mudnut. I'll have a look, hopefully some mud or something jammed in there. Otherwise i'll be saying goodbye to $1300 for a new clutch at the mechanics.

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