Exhaust, Gauges, Dyno, Dawse, Needles & Intercoolers

[10G]

Thats with the kit installed yeah? If so, I'd probably wind in the needle valve just a touch to get the 100k boost at around 12, and a little higher. The spool up on the turbo will increase a little too. But. You may not need to touch the needle valve though, if you think its fine. When you get the EGT gauge in, have a play around with the needle valve and you should see a difference in EGT's at 100k's with different adjustments.

Nah, not yet, just got the kit last night, too bloody hot to go in the shed after work ATM.

Go easy if your going to use an exhaust wrap especially on a 4x4,
you'll find it will rust your pipes very quickly, if subjected to water.
Even race car and nascars dont use it for that reason

Oh, gee, didn't know that, don't think I'll use it then. Thanks for the info TD.

[mudski]

Go easy if your going to use an exhaust wrap especially on a 4x4,
you'll find it will rust your pipes very quickly, if subjected to water.
Even race car and nascars dont use it for that reason

I disagree their John. The wrap dries very quickly. When I did the engine conversion and I removed the dump pipe from the ZD, I took off the wrap that I put on that 18 months prior and the pipe was still new under neath it. Paint and all.

[BigRAWesty]

I disagree their John. The wrap dries very quickly. When I did the engine conversion and I removed the dump pipe from the ZD, I took off the wrap that I put on that 18 months prior and the pipe was still new under neath it. Paint and all.

Agree.
I've got my dump pipe wrapped, and after mud runs above the wheels by tge time I popped the bonnet and had a look the wrap was almost dry..

To get the heat sheild off easily remove the actuator and sheild.
They heat sheild will come off easily over the top..

That 17 psi is that a spike?
Being manual I find its best to get it into 3rd and plant the foot around 1300rpm.
Itll spike a bit but you want it to settle at 15-16 psi..

[Winnie]

Go easy if your going to use an exhaust wrap especially on a 4x4,
you'll find it will rust your pipes very quickly, if subjected to water.
Even race car and nascars dont use it for that reason

2 days ago you suggested to growler that he should wrap his?

[10G]

I'm not wrapping anything, I'll get the mechinic to refit the heat shield when I get services in a few weeks.

I also looked at the 2nd battery holder. It has the end near the turbo fully enclosed if that makes any sense so that will deflect some of the turbo heat. I have some 3mm alloy sheet banging around in the shed, I'm going to make a simple shield to sit just off the battery holder, that should give the battery lots of protection.

One thing I've noticed over the past few days since the 3" zorst went on is the turbo fluctuating, I can feel the throttle pulsate now.

I'm looking forward to getting the Dawse installed in about 2 weeks and having this little project complete, it's been a great learning curve that I've enjoyed very much.

[threedogs]

I'm not wrapping anything, I'll get the mechinic to refit the heat shield when I get services in a few weeks.

I also looked at the 2nd battery holder. It has the end near the turbo fully enclosed if that makes any sense so that will deflect some of the turbo heat. I have some 3mm alloy sheet banging around in the shed, I'm going to make a simple shield to sit just off the battery holder, that should give the battery lots of protection.

One thing I've noticed over the past few days since the 3" zorst went on is the turbo fluctuating, I can feel the throttle pulsate now.

I'm looking forward to getting the Dawse installed in about 2 weeks and having this little project complete, it's been a great learning curve that I've enjoyed very much.

Ive had a T3 turbo beanie fitted for over 2 years now and found I
can put my hand on the turbo after a long drive, one of the better
gizmo's imo.
I run a wet cell Aux battery and I get bugger all evaporation if any at all

[10G]

Thats with the kit installed yeah? If so, I'd probably wind in the needle valve just a touch to get the 100k boost at around 12, and a little higher. The spool up on the turbo will increase a little too. But. You may not need to touch the needle valve though, if you think its fine. When you get the EGT gauge in, have a play around with the needle valve and you should see a difference in EGT's at 100k's with different adjustments.

Go easy if your going to use an exhaust wrap especially on a 4x4,
you'll find it will rust your pipes very quickly, if subjected to water.
Even race car and nascars dont use it for that reason

Ive had a T3 turbo beanie fitted for over 2 years now and found I
can put my hand on the turbo after a long drive, one of the better
gizmo's imo.
I run a wet cell Aux battery and I get bugger all evaporation if any at all

Are those beanies as easy to fit as they look like they should? They look like you should just be able to pull them around the turbo and have it in all in place within 5 minutes.

[Kennedy]

This has been a very educational thread for me and has prompted me to fit a needle valve.
I hope I'm not doing the wrong thing by butting in on this topic with a few questions of my own.
My vehicle - 1999 TD42 turbo ute with aftermarket intercooler. I had it dyno tuned a couple of years ago and they fitted a boost controller....I assume this is what is referred to as a Dawes valve ( it is plumbed in line between actuator and IC side of turbo)

1. I am getting a boost and EGT gauge - where is best place to put EGT probe, engine side of turbo or exhaust side ? I have read somewhere that temps are cooler on exhaust side. There is a threaded plug in exhaust manifold just before turbo so I'm guessing this would be a good place for probe.

2. I can't find a needle valve on the usual sites selling turbo related products, plenty of kits with needle and dawes combo. I found this item however, would it be suitable ?? https://www.valvesonline.com.au/pneu...eed-controller

[gubigfish]

@Kennedy the Dawes and Needle Valve are for the the 3L Di and CRD motors

EGT gauge supposedly you get a more accurate reading from the exhaust manifold and the max temp can be higher on that side. Most have it fitted to the dump pipe just after the turbo. If your dump pipe doesn't have a port then you can either get someone to weld the port on, or take your dump pipe off and then drill a hole and tap a thread in it.

You can just see mine here in this picture

IMG_1105.JPG

[Kennedy]

Thanks for that gubigfish, I didn't realise my old dinosaur wasn't compatible with the hi-tech stuff...I guess its a bit like me!!

If I don't have a port in the dump pipe I can rectify that soon, my exhaust flex joint is shot so reckon I will replace the whole show with a 3"