trying to improve towing performance of 3l di auto
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If you get the Wholesale Automatics trans temp gauge they will supply you with a trans banjo bolt that has a short VDO temp sensor in it. This banjo bolt replaces the banjo bolt on the right side of the trans.
All your mechanic needs to do is remove that banjo and fit the other with the temp sensor in its place with 2 new 14mm copper washers.
You will lose almost nothing in fluid.
There's a single wire that then needs to come down through the tunnel above the trans.
A mechanic who can't do that should shut up shop..
John
2001 GUII TI 4500 - Now converted to TD42T auto with Nomad valve body
Last edited by Kimbo63; 9th April 2016 at 12:38 PM.
98 GU ST wagon 6.5TD chev 5 speed manual dual batteries storage drawers big red air compressor 9L tank millweld front and rear bars millweld 4" snorkel 4" air box 3" tough dog suspension lift drop box and hybrid radius arms 12000Lb winch ARB front air locker Alpine MP3 player amp and a good set of speakers GME 2 way The list goes on
Actually i may get the unit from wholesale automatics and have a look n see if i could do it, been 30 years since i did any mechanical work on vehicles. Perhaps instructions included. Would an exhaust place be capable of doing an EGT fitting. Any hints on where the EGT kit is available from?
Thanks
Ordered transmission temp kit today. I have a client who is a diesel engine mechanic, i will ask him if he's interested in installing such. I will then look at an exhaust temp gauge. Any hints where to obtain such a unit?
Cheers
All this thread has done is completely prove to me I've been towing wrong all along. I usually tow with OD on and drive through the gears with the stick from 1st to drive. 285 size tyres and the rig cruises at around the 2000 rpm range at 100kph fuel usage is around 17lph around town and 21lph towing, ok so my car is very heavy compared to most and I constantly have the car loaded as nowhere to empty the stuff out like (spare tyres and draws). I understand that every car is different in wieghts and fuel usage and such.... But my figures sound a lot high than everyone else's.
Warwick,
I have at times returned 4.7k per litre towing which would be close to 21l per 100, headwind is an enemy. Usually get closer to 5.5 to 6 k per litre towing 2.4t. Your every day usage is high though.
All this thread has done is completely prove to me I've been towing wrong all along. I usually tow with OD on and drive through the gears with the stick from 1st to drive. 285 size tyres and the rig cruises at around the 2000 rpm range at 100kph fuel usage is around 17lph around town and 21lph towing, ok so my car is very heavy compared to most and I constantly have the car loaded as nowhere to empty the stuff out like (spare tyres and draws). I understand that every car is different in wieghts and fuel usage and such.... But my figures sound a lot high than everyone else's.
Edit: Auto
I tow in OD mainly going to the Murray river which is slightly up hill all the way.
The HWY is 110 kph which I set my cruse control to about 105kph no rush. eh
My 2004 Di auto will return 15ltr/100Ks. Never had any issues, that was with 285s and sometimes 305's
Picture shows my camper ,which is a 2010 Hilux single cab tub Ive converted to a camper
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there