EGTS Up Why?

[10G]

haha_Yes adjust needle with eng at idle / stationary. Tell U, I would not be hanging out of the drivers side window, hauling in 3rd gear @ 3000rpm, with bonnet up trying to get a visual of the actuator lever resting against the vane limit stop screw.

Darren Dawes had a replacement spring for the early Brass Dawes boost controller. Send him an email and he may send you one for elimination purposes (explain the boost situation briefly) _ info@3BarRacing.com

Clean the Dawes you have and see how she performs after a clean. CRD can run happily at max spool, so u can shut needle right off.

I have a Tillix boost controller here and needle valve that I could loan to you to see how boost behaves.

Do you still have vac solenoid under the bonnet and plugged in to elec harness keeping ECM happy when using manual boost control?

I currently run VNT vac solenoid with the ECM, in conjunction with a Dawes (3barracing) and needle valve for boost limiting. Can try a couple of other things but give your current setup a go again first for info.

I'll stick my head in and take a look. I know we removed that solenoid from the equation, vacuum wise, but I don't know about electrically.

Usually higher EGT's can be boiled down to two main issues. Less air than normal (air leak or turbo problems) or more fuel than normal (injector pump or injector problems).

I would start by looking at air leaks and if none can be found - a good tune up may fix or at least find the problem.

Is it possible to tune the standard setup? Standard ECU etc?

Last night I was adjusting the needle valve. At some settings I could hear something that sounded like something opening, like when a vacuum seal is broken, you hear that release of a suction seal. I assumed it was the actuator opening and closing, but I'm not 100% sure????

[Bidja]

I'll stick my head in and take a look. I know we removed that solenoid from the equation, vacuum wise, but I don't know about electrically.

Is it possible to tune the standard setup? Standard ECU etc?

Last night I was adjusting the needle valve. At some settings I could hear something that sounded like something opening, like when a vacuum seal is broken, you hear that release of a suction seal. I assumed it was the actuator opening and closing, but I'm not 100% sure????

CRD requires the vacsol electrically connected (plugged into harness). or if vacsol is removed a resistor (330ohm 1/2 watt) is to be placed across the sol electric harness connector terminals. The ECM requires this load or limp type fault will occur.

A tune will be a remap of ECM (postal or a live on dyno).

Last night I was adjusting the needle valve. At some settings I could hear something that sounded like something opening, like when a vacuum seal is broken, you hear that release of a suction seal. I assumed it was the actuator opening and closing, but I'm not 100% sure????

Was the noise a drone sound and did u notice that actuator rod had dropped down at the same time?

Make sure that the needle valve fresh air bleed and vac hoses are of good condition and fit securely (3mm ID hose).

Much oil residue again in Dawes boost controller?

[10G]

The noise sounds like a combination of a hot engine component cooling down, you know how some things give a crack sound when they begin to cool down and that sound you hear when you remove a suction fitting.

It's too hard to try to determine where it comes from, but I'll keep an eye & ear out for it.

Yep, the vascol is still plugged in.

There was some oil residue in the Dawes, not alot, but more than I was hoping to find. I'm going to take another look, but I think I may have lost a rubber seal out of the Dawes, if it has one??? I have been wiping out the inside, so I may have accidently flicked it out, again, if it has one?

[Bidja]

If it is a metallic click sound, wonder if the VNT vanes are sticking (ie: carbon build up).
With eng at idle with Dawes and needle valve connected, check again and see if the rod is up with lever against stop screw then pull vac hose off actuator (eng still at idle). Do you hear the noise and does the rod drop freely and quickly?

Good that vacsol is still plugged in.

Not sure if the Dawes "Brass Body" has seat insert. Would you like me to post/loan a Tillix boost controller to try that (trouble shooting)?

[10G]

Thanks Bidja, I'll check that arm tonight.

Thanks for the kind offer of the Tillix, I'll hold off on that for now, thanks again.

Found a Tuner, 1 hour from home. Hmmmmm, I wonder.

[10G]

Just checked the rod. It's up with vac and goes up and down when I remove the actuator vac hose, moved quite freely. Couldn't hear that noise I mentioned.

Did some tests the other night, forgot to put the figures up.

I get around 18psi doing 130 in 4th or 5th, can't remember. EGTs were in mid to high 400s.

Sitting in 5th at 100km/h I get around 10psi with EGTs mid 300s. I'm sure boost used to be up around 13 psi at 100, but it's not bad I guess.

Here's a pic of how far my Dawes is screwed in:

IMG_20230302_181341-1.jpg

Could that indicate that something's maybe not plugged into the correct spot or some other fault/error?

Doesn't give me much room to play with.

And this is how I have the vacsol hooked up:

IMG_20230302_181418-1.jpg

That lower left hose is bent over and clipped with a zip tie.

Is that all blocked off correctly?

[Bidja]

Those boost and EGTs figures are fine. 10psi cruise @ 100kph is what some strive for to provide good ECO. I do have some concern with the Dawes being wound in so far.

With the Dawes wound in just about all the way, makes me think that the ball is not seating correctly and there maybe has a small leak past the ball at seat. If it is leaking there would be +ve air pressure from cooler entering the vac line at very early/low boost and the VNT vanes may not stay closed enough early for the turbo to spool up fast enough.
Could be the seat or spring lets see.

Could remove the Dawes, connect a small length of vac hose to each end of the Dawes and apply compressed air supply with a regulator fitted to simulate it being connected to the cooler boost take off. Using the regulator on the air supply, slowly increase the pressure from zero to the pressure where you feel slight air passing through the Dawes and this will give you an indication of boost level set of the Dawes.
Let me know result.
U can put the outlet piece of hose near your face and feel the passing air starting to pass through.

Your vacsol is blocked off correctly and as said: the electric connector needs to be plugged in.

Really think u can sort this out without giving money to a tuner.


@mudski does the Brass body Dawes have a seat insert for the ball to nest against?

[mudski]

Those boost and EGTs figures are fine. 10psi cruise @ 100kph is what some strive for to provide good ECO. I do have some concern with the Dawes being wound in so far.

With the Dawes wound in just about all the way, makes me think that the ball is not seating correctly and there maybe has a small leak past the ball at seat. If it is leaking there would be +ve air pressure from cooler entering the vac line at very early/low boost and the VNT vanes may not stay closed enough early for the turbo to spool up fast enough.
Could be the seat or spring lets see.

Could remove the Dawes, connect a small length of vac hose to each end of the Dawes and apply compressed air supply with a regulator fitted to simulate it being connected to the cooler boost take off. Using the regulator on the air supply, slowly increase the pressure from zero to the pressure where you feel slight air passing through the Dawes and this will give you an indication of boost level set of the Dawes.
Let me know result.
U can put the outlet piece of hose near your face and feel the passing air starting to pass through.

Your vacsol is blocked off correctly and as said: the electric connector needs to be plugged in.

Really think u can sort this out without giving money to a tuner.


@mudski does the Brass body Dawes have a seat insert for the ball to nest against?

Yeah the Dawes has like a tapered seat for the ball. Can't say for the Chinese copies floating around though.

[mudski]

Just checked the rod. It's up with vac and goes up and down when I remove the actuator vac hose, moved quite freely. Couldn't hear that noise I mentioned.

Did some tests the other night, forgot to put the figures up.

I get around 18psi doing 130 in 4th or 5th, can't remember. EGTs were in mid to high 400s.

Sitting in 5th at 100km/h I get around 10psi with EGTs mid 300s. I'm sure boost used to be up around 13 psi at 100, but it's not bad I guess.

Wind your needle valve in more. The gap between your cruise boost and max is way too far apart. ideally 5psi difference.

Here's a pic of how far my Dawes is screwed in:

Could that indicate that something's maybe not plugged into the correct spot or some other fault/error?

Doesn't give me much room to play with.

Something is not right thats for sure. You should be seeing 25psi +

And this is how I have the vacsol hooked up:

That lower left hose is bent over and clipped with a zip tie.

Is that all blocked off correctly?

Yes its blocked off. You don't even need to do that to be honest as its not doing anything anyway.

[10G]

Wind your needle valve in more. The gap between your cruise boost and max is way too far apart. ideally 5psi difference.

Will do. I set my needle by watching the rod go up and down and tightening the set screw on the needle just as the rod touches the stop screw. I'll wind it in more and see what happens on the drive home in a few hours.