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Purchased a Vac tester and the ECU Talk cable was delivered.
Vacuum Testing Results: with Needle valve completely closed
T added Piece before VNT actuator = 12"Hg
VNT actuator receiving = 28"Hg
ECU Results:
BTW, DI has a consult comms port not OBD2.
This is the plug i have on the patrol. (PIC)
The ECU Talk cable I got was able to give me the following codes using my laptop.
Code 73: P3-Pump Comm Line
Code 95: Turbo Pressure
Cleared the codes but no change.
Is my next step disconnecting the VNT actuator rod to see if rod moves freely? I have attached a pic of the VNT actuator at idle, still not touching the stop screw
Do i need to check vanes now to see if theyre clogged?
Vacuum Testing Results: with Needle valve completely closed
T added Piece before VNT actuator = 12"Hg
VNT actuator receiving = 28"Hg
So at idle, are u saying that with either the vac supply measuring 12 "Hg when T'd into vac line with Dawes connected and also when vac supply of 28 "Hg connected directly, that in both cases the lever is not touching the stop?
Have you seen the rod move at all?
If pic shows the typical rod position with both vac conditions at idle, I would check if u can move the lever up and down with actuator rod disconnected. After removal of the e-clip at lever pivot u will probable need to undo the two securing nuts that hold the actuator to the brkt so u can tilt the actuator to the side for rod to slip off lever pivot pin. Note: Tie fishing line to the clip and anchor it so u do not loose clip when u remove it.
Maybe the diaphragm in the actuator has failed (split)_can u check and see if the actuator can hold a vac after the eng is turned off?
So at idle, are u saying that with either the vac supply measuring 12 "Hg when T'd into vac line with Dawes connected and also when vac supply of 28 "Hg connected directly, that in both cases the lever is not touching the stop?
Have you seen the rod move at all?
Correct, motor is idling the rod doesnt touch the stop, yes i have seen the rod move, i can remove the line and the rod will fall reconnect and move up but not all the way to reach the stop screw.
Originally Posted by Bidja
Maybe the diaphragm in the actuator has failed (split)_can u check and see if the actuator can hold a vac after the eng is turned off?
sorry might sound stupid but i couldnt find how to test the actuator holds vacumm without using a vacuum hand pump. could you explain this for me? or does one person watch the actuator while all lines are attached normally and another shut of the engine and see if it hold position?
I'll give it a go in the morning and get the arm off and check it out aswell. Thank again
If you have access to a vac hand pump to test if actuator holds vacuum this would be good. I have one and use it to set up my actuator rod length.
Could fit a needle valve between supply vac hose (supply 28"Hg) and actuator, apply vacuum then close needle (if it seats well) and turn eng off see if rod holds/drops away.
BTW the video shows that the rod lifts only about 5mm, normal travel is about 10mm. Would remove the actuator rod from lever and check the lever / vane movement manually.
Had the engine running with needle open connected before the actuator (rod was up). With the engine still running as I would closed the valve the actuator would drop.
Is this the witness mark you mentioned? nuts seem tight, i haven't adjusted them so they don't look like they've moved.
If i need to replace the actuator, should i look into getting a hand vac aswell?
With the rod/adjuster marking, have a look at my pic at post No 4 and the adjuster thumb wheel is the knurled wheel in your case it is a hex profile nut adjuster _ mark across the adjuster nut and the rod arm (reference set point).
Ordered a new actuator. Decided to go with the vacuum on for ease of replacing as time is of the essence, should be here in a couple of days.
I did give the mob a call about the boost actuators. They recommended a tune when installing them because getting the right amount of boost can be tricky, could be done yourself with trial and error but i will save that for another time.
As the lever does not touch the stop screw when u connected the vac supply to direct to the actuator (measured at 28"Hg) and actuator does not hold vacuum, yes you most likely need a new vac actuator.
Need a hand operated vac pump to set actuator rod length (makes is a lot easier). Also can be used to check the diaphragm in the actuator for leaks.
Need to remove you current actuator and check that actuator lever can move freely all the way up to the stop screw. Check for vane operation.
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Originally Posted by Bidja
