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24th August 2016, 05:33 PM
#31
Patrol God
When the engine is off the vnt arm on the turbo will down..
Then when you start the engine it'll lift..
It's how the vacume vnt turbo works..
The reason for hearing the leak is you know the factory snail can make 25 psi. .
His dawes is right in so max boost. Still only making 13 psi..
That's one hell of a leak..
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24th August 2016 05:33 PM
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24th August 2016, 05:47 PM
#32
Originally Posted by
bigguwesty
When the engine is off the vnt arm on the turbo will down..
Then when you start the engine it'll lift..
It's how the vacume vnt turbo works..
The reason for hearing the leak is you know the factory snail can make 25 psi. .
His dawes is right in so max boost. Still only making 13 psi..
That's one hell of a leak..
Yeah still, depending on where the leak is too. My original IC in my ol'ZD was leaking and I couldn't hear it....
Email answered Phil....
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24th August 2016, 06:05 PM
#33
If the arm doent go up or down with engine on or off whats that mean?
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24th August 2016, 07:48 PM
#34
Patrol God
Originally Posted by
Rex13
If the arm doent go up or down with engine on or off whats that mean?
Vac leak, stuffed vac pump or possibly shot turbo vains..
Take the actuator off and see if the turbo vnt arm moves freely..
If not new turbo..
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24th August 2016, 08:20 PM
#35
When i take the vac hose off the actuator there is suction on the hose.
Could the actuator be stuffed?
Last edited by Rex13; 24th August 2016 at 08:43 PM.
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24th August 2016, 10:37 PM
#36
I think your looking to hard into this right now. Test the IC first for leaks. Then worry about the next step.
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24th August 2016, 11:00 PM
#37
How do i test ic?
Does a radiator repair shop do this?
Sorry for all the question, just want it fix, im sopose to be going away in 3 weeks.
QUOTE=mudski;693295]I think your looking to hard into this right now. Test the IC first for leaks. Then worry about the next step.[/QUOTE]
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24th August 2016, 11:06 PM
#38
Seal both end of the ic up with duct tape or the same. Then submerse the ic in water with the inlet and outlet above the water, then use a bike pump with one of those ball pump needle thingo's and push it through the tape and pump air into the ic. If you see bubbles then its leaking. Or just take it to a radiator mob....
You need to do one thing at a time otherwise you will just get lost in it all. Make sure the ic is good then move onto the next thing. Resetting the dawes and needle valves.
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24th August 2016, 11:15 PM
#39
Sweet, thanks.
I cant do till friday, i let ya all know how i go.
Cheers
Originally Posted by
mudski
Seal both end of the ic up with duct tape or the same. Then submerse the ic in water with the inlet and outlet above the water, then use a bike pump with one of those ball pump needle thingo's and push it through the tape and pump air into the ic. If you see bubbles then its leaking. Or just take it to a radiator mob....
You need to do one thing at a time otherwise you will just get lost in it all. Make sure the ic is good then move onto the next thing. Resetting the dawes and needle valves.
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27th August 2016, 08:04 PM
#40
Havent had chance to do anything yet, but i did do a test
100kph
3200 rpm
6 psi boost
420 egt
3rd gear (auto)
Does this sound right?
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