OUR VIDEOS GALLERY MEMBER SPONSORSHIP VENDOR SPONSORSHIP

User Tag List

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 23

Thread: GQ RB30 EGR Exhaust Manifold

  1. #11
    Beginner
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    Sunshine Coast
    Posts
    21
    Thanks
    10
    Thanked 7 Times in 7 Posts
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Well, Broke an easy out in the bolt I was trying to remove from the cylinder head. Pretty much at my tether with this thing.

    Idea's on removing a broken easy out?

    Diamond Tip hole saw, carbide drill tip, Dremel?

    Might be about time to take it to the shop.

    Not the best way to end the weekend

  2. # ADS
    Circuit advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many

     

  3. #12
    Legendary dom14's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Somewhere inside Victoria, Australia :)
    Posts
    3,699
    Thanks
    2,124
    Thanked 575 Times in 461 Posts
    Mentioned
    38 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by lsmitti View Post
    Thanks Dom14!

    Great bits of info!

    I hadn't heard of maniseal. This looks like just what I need, and as you say and a bit of exhaust wrap. It's a bit tricky getting the GQ to the shops without any exhaust to have it welded up to the remainder of the exhaust so will probably have to come up with something to bolt up at home.

    I can't seem to find any extractors which have the flange welded on the end :S
    Maniseal is just a water based ceramic paste. Autobarn, Supercheap, Burson etc stock it.
    It is a cheap temporary solution or even a permanent solution, depending on how you use it(whether externally or as a gasket sealant on the flange or manifold to cylinder head gasket. Permatex, etc also have the same thing with a different name.
    It's around ten bucks or so.
    You can most certainly use it as a permanent solution for the cracked exhaust manifold, but probably won't look beautiful.

    No, they don't sell the extractors with flange welded, 'cos flange can be different depending on what size exhaust pipes and the style
    of the flange. You just buy the extractors and come up with your own flange depending on the rest of the exhaust.
    Flange only cost couple of peanuts. Unless you have the welding apparatus, you obviously have to get an exhaust guy to do the job.
    You might get a better deal by leaving the whole thing to an exhaust guy and negotiating with him the price and brand of extractors
    you want. It can turn out lot cheaper than you buying the extractors and taking it to an exhaust guy(He will have to charge you the labour). A package deal might turn out to be lot cheaper.

    You can most certainly put the cracked manifold back on and patch it with Maniseal as well as the block the EGR hole with a wrap(or combine a wrap & maniseal).
    RB30, some 2-3 inch lift auxiliary LPG tanks
    Few more mods on the way
    http://www.worldwildlife.org/species/tiger
    https://www.panthera.org/
    Cheetah Outreach

  4. #13
    Legendary dom14's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Somewhere inside Victoria, Australia :)
    Posts
    3,699
    Thanks
    2,124
    Thanked 575 Times in 461 Posts
    Mentioned
    38 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by lsmitti View Post
    Well, Broke an easy out in the bolt I was trying to remove from the cylinder head. Pretty much at my tether with this thing.

    Idea's on removing a broken easy out?

    Diamond Tip hole saw, carbide drill tip, Dremel?

    Might be about time to take it to the shop.

    Not the best way to end the weekend
    Yeah, same thing happened to me and end up wasting bit of money and time buying diamond tips that didn't work.
    Removing broken studs can end up painful and irritating like that.

    You can buy a hole drilling bit to cut a hole through the broken stud, then either use another stud extractor or just tap it. Once you have a broken extractor tip or drill bit tap stuck on the broken stud, things can get messy and you need a fair bit parallel thinking to fix it DIY.
    If you damage the thread beyond repair with a thread tap, you can either use a matching helicoil or just tap it to the next size.

    I ended up tapping one of the holes on the cylinder head with next size, which turned out a jump from 10mm to 12mm, but that's fine.(I'm not a big fan of helicoil 'cos one of the studs that came out was on helicoil, but they do work when done properly).
    For the broken studs on the exhaust manifold flange, I carefully drilled out the all of the broken stud by drilling in it. I started with a small drill bit and gradually increased to larger one. I didn't use extractors, 'cos I knew I can end up with world of shit again if it breaks inside. You just have to take time and stick to the middle of the stud at all times. Once enough of the stud meat is removed by drilling
    into it, you can tap it with the matching thread tap.
    It is an absolute PITA, no argument there, but you learn a fair bit by DIY'ing. If you don't have time & need the troll back on road quickly, then you have no choice but taking it to a mechanic.
    RB30, some 2-3 inch lift auxiliary LPG tanks
    Few more mods on the way
    http://www.worldwildlife.org/species/tiger
    https://www.panthera.org/
    Cheetah Outreach

  5. #14
    Legendary dom14's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Somewhere inside Victoria, Australia :)
    Posts
    3,699
    Thanks
    2,124
    Thanked 575 Times in 461 Posts
    Mentioned
    38 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by lsmitti View Post
    Well, Broke an easy out in the bolt I was trying to remove from the cylinder head. Pretty much at my tether with this thing.

    Idea's on removing a broken easy out?

    Diamond Tip hole saw, carbide drill tip, Dremel?

    Might be about time to take it to the shop.

    Not the best way to end the weekend
    This is what I used when the same thing happened to me.
    Luckily for me, I had the cylinder head on the bench, which made it tad easier to access it.

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/6mm-Dia-...4383.l4275.c10

    You can buy those diamond tipped hole saw bits from a Tool shop. Just get the size you need to cut through the stud.
    If you're careful enough, you can pretty much end up not having to tap the hole to the next size, but use the same size tap
    to clean the slightly damaged thread.

    I have a kit of the above diamond tip hole saw bits in case it happens again.
    RB30, some 2-3 inch lift auxiliary LPG tanks
    Few more mods on the way
    http://www.worldwildlife.org/species/tiger
    https://www.panthera.org/
    Cheetah Outreach

  6. #15
    Legendary dom14's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Somewhere inside Victoria, Australia :)
    Posts
    3,699
    Thanks
    2,124
    Thanked 575 Times in 461 Posts
    Mentioned
    38 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Another tip I can give you is that you can buy a used Skyline or VL commodore RB30 extractors cheaply from a wrecker
    and take it to an exhaust guy. He will modify it to fit the RB30 Patrol with necessary flanges.
    That can turn out to be cheaper if you wanna save some money.
    Only difference between a new extractor set and old one is the bit of rust. The new one will rust in no time.
    And of course, you can leave the broken stud extracting part with the exhaust guy as well.
    He's got the tools to do that super fast.
    RB30, some 2-3 inch lift auxiliary LPG tanks
    Few more mods on the way
    http://www.worldwildlife.org/species/tiger
    https://www.panthera.org/
    Cheetah Outreach

  7. #16
    Patrol God mudnut's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    SW Vic.
    Posts
    7,806
    Thanks
    10,554
    Thanked 5,342 Times in 3,164 Posts
    Mentioned
    80 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    How much of the easyout is protruding from the hole? I have had minor success using a sharp punch to tap a deep broken easy out in the reverse direction and got it to come out, very slowly.
    Other than that, there are rescue bits available. I have seen blokes weld a couple of dobs of metal onto broken studs and use that to get a grip with vice grips, but the easyout might just get more brittle and snap again.

    https://the-original-rescue-bit.myshopify.com/
    Last edited by mudnut; 10th December 2017 at 10:37 PM.
    My advice is: not to follow my advice.

  8. The Following User Says Thank You to mudnut For This Useful Post:

    dom14 (11th December 2017)

  9. #17
    Beginner
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    Sunshine Coast
    Posts
    21
    Thanks
    10
    Thanked 7 Times in 7 Posts
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Thanks you once again for the reply's all

    So here it is in all its glory

    20171210_194707.jpg

    After this stud i have another to remove..

    What about welding a nut onto the stud? I don't have a welder but could probably obtain / shout a carton for a mate to weld a nut on..

    From the photo it does look like there may be a slight bit of the extractor sticking out, but thats super zoomed I doubt i'll get anything to grip on :S

    May end up taking it to the shop, will need to organise a car trailer / flat bed truck.
    Last edited by lsmitti; 10th December 2017 at 10:56 PM.

  10. The Following User Says Thank You to lsmitti For This Useful Post:

    dom14 (12th December 2017)

  11. #18
    Patrol God mudnut's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    SW Vic.
    Posts
    7,806
    Thanks
    10,554
    Thanked 5,342 Times in 3,164 Posts
    Mentioned
    80 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    Definitely try the welding a nut on it. I should've suggested that as well. Must be old age... A nut also helps retain the weld on the broken stud. Some times the heat transferred to the stud via the weld can help loosen it as well.

    The exhaust guy changed out all of the original studs because they have a habit of cracking and breaking off.

    Disconnect your battery to stop any stray current from the welder destroying your alternator regulator.
    Last edited by mudnut; 11th December 2017 at 01:46 PM.
    My advice is: not to follow my advice.

  12. The Following User Says Thank You to mudnut For This Useful Post:

    dom14 (11th December 2017)

  13. #19
    Legendary dom14's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Somewhere inside Victoria, Australia :)
    Posts
    3,699
    Thanks
    2,124
    Thanked 575 Times in 461 Posts
    Mentioned
    38 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by mudnut View Post
    Definitely try the welding a nut on it. I should've suggested that as well. Must be old age... A nut also helps retain the weld on the broken stud. Some times the heat transferred to the stud via the weld can help loosen it as well.

    The exhaust guy changed out all of the original studs because they have a habit of cracking and breaking off.

    Disconnect your battery to stop any stray current from the welder destroying your alternator regulator.

    Good tip.

    i removed one of the studs that broke(actually they all broke while trying to undo) from the manifold flange using a piece of metal
    I welded onto it, and yes the heat transferred from the welder loosens it, which indicates the advantage we get by heating up the stud
    using a propane torch.
    RB30, some 2-3 inch lift auxiliary LPG tanks
    Few more mods on the way
    http://www.worldwildlife.org/species/tiger
    https://www.panthera.org/
    Cheetah Outreach

  14. #20
    Legendary dom14's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Somewhere inside Victoria, Australia :)
    Posts
    3,699
    Thanks
    2,124
    Thanked 575 Times in 461 Posts
    Mentioned
    38 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by lsmitti View Post
    Thanks you once again for the reply's all

    So here it is in all its glory

    20171210_194707.jpg

    After this stud i have another to remove..

    What about welding a nut onto the stud? I don't have a welder but could probably obtain / shout a carton for a mate to weld a nut on..

    From the photo it does look like there may be a slight bit of the extractor sticking out, but thats super zoomed I doubt i'll get anything to grip on :S

    May end up taking it to the shop, will need to organise a car trailer / flat bed truck.
    You can see from the picture why it broke. Same thing happened to me.
    You have to super make sure the hole drilled on the stud is in the exact middle of it, or else the ezy out can and will snap
    'cos of the unequal distribution of tensile force on it and out of it.
    And if you can, get hold of a propane torch(about twenty bucks from Bunnings) and apply a bit of heat.

    The diamond tip hole cutter bit I posted above is the way I managed to get the broken ezy out bit out.
    I tried @mudnut 's suggestion above(using a punch to weaken/break it), and it ended up removing bits of it by breaking, which
    did help in the end.

    Like @mudnut suggested above, I would replace all the studs, if it's not too much trouble, but yeah, try not to break anymore if you decide to do so.
    RB30, some 2-3 inch lift auxiliary LPG tanks
    Few more mods on the way
    http://www.worldwildlife.org/species/tiger
    https://www.panthera.org/
    Cheetah Outreach

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •