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Thread: RB30 Facts, Figures and Helpful Hints

  1. #161
    Legendary dom14's Avatar
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    These are the photos of the crank gear & the two thin plates that goes at front and back of it, from late 2015 when I did my timing belt kit. Basically the plates+crank gear should snugly fit onto to the crankshaft end in front of the seal when the harmonic balancer is inserted and tightened with the pulley bolt.

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/CKOqHLOjIIpkA6P62

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/Ni83tMzrAniqAwdl1

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/bCOaF1Bb0DnOR08S2


    So, you can see there is a slight protrusion out of the crank shaft for back plate+crank gear to touch, so they don't grind on the crankshaft oil seal. I'm guessing the reasons for your drama might be a loose harmonic balancer bolt or the crankshaft key wear or something along those lines???!!!
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  3. #162
    Legendary dom14's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudnut View Post
    Some rather sad news for my RB30. The small plate, or washer behind the timing sprocket on the crank has stripped out and is eating into the crank. The only fix is a new crank, but probably cheaper to get a whole engine. This is just a mongrel thing that the mechanic who changed out the timing belt has caused about 30,000ks ago. It is such a shame as the motor is running as sweet as.
    @mudnut, can't send any PMs to you. It's houseful.
    RB30, some 2-3 inch lift auxiliary LPG tanks
    Few more mods on the way
    http://www.worldwildlife.org/species/tiger
    https://www.panthera.org/
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  4. #163
    Patrol God mudnut's Avatar
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    The washer/plate closest to the engine oil seal has let go and stripped out. A mechanic has said it is caused by the other mechanic not torquing up the harmonic balancer quite enough.

    I have just put the whole thing together until I can get. I can afford a fix.

    Pics will have to wait until I can talk to the dyno guy, as he builds engines as well.
    Last edited by mudnut; 12th November 2017 at 11:06 AM.
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  5. #164
    Patrol God mudnut's Avatar
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    One fix I have thought of is to drill and weld the plate to the sprocket and get it machined to be centred.

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    My advice is: not to follow my advice.

  6. #165
    Legendary dom14's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudnut View Post
    The washer/plate closest to the engine oil seal has let go and stripped out. A mechanic has said it is caused by the other mechanic not torquing up the harmonic balancer quite enough.

    I have just put the whole thing together until I can get. I can afford a fix.

    Pics will have to wait until I can talk to the dyno guy, as he builds engines as well.
    Hey Craig,
    Below specifically applies to Diesel engine's and particularly the RD28.
    The harmonic balancer bolt may be kinda TTY(torque to yield) and when it's been re-used over and over(tightened and loosened too many times as in my case), retightening it after a while may be important. I honestly don't know if this is the case with RB30, but I took no chances and make sure to chekc and retighten the bolt after few days and again after a month or so and then quarterly or so.
    Other solution is to replace with a new bolt(which we don't know how good it is unless it's genuine Nissan one).
    I reuse the headbolts which are TTY, so I make sure to retighten the headbolts(definitely this time after dramas from last time).

    Are you saying the protrusion on the crank has been ground to the point the crank gear is grinding on the seal/seal housing?
    If that's the case, driving is not good obviously. Plate is there to protect the crank gear from happening that as well as a balancing shim between the cam gear and crank gear I reckon.

    When I tightened the harmonic balancer bolt late last month, I gave it quite a tightening with a breaker bar while the crank is locked by putting the gearbox into first gear(not sure if it's the right way but that's the only way I could do 'cos no room to squeeze in the type of rattle gun I have).


    So, how did you find out about the problem? Oil leak? Noise?!
    Last edited by dom14; 12th November 2017 at 01:31 PM.
    RB30, some 2-3 inch lift auxiliary LPG tanks
    Few more mods on the way
    http://www.worldwildlife.org/species/tiger
    https://www.panthera.org/
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  7. #166
    Patrol God mudnut's Avatar
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    The plate is there to guide the belt as well as shimming the the balancer and sprocket. Like I posted, this engine is running so well, you can almost balance a coin on the tappet cover at idle, so I am really pissed off.
    My advice is: not to follow my advice.

  8. #167
    Legendary dom14's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudnut View Post
    The plate is there to guide the belt as well as shimming the the balancer and sprocket. Like I posted, this engine is running so well, you can almost balance a coin on the tappet cover at idle, so I am really pissed off.
    Yes, yes, I would be really pissed off if I'm you as well. As a dedicated DIY'er who doesn't go to mechanics unless I'm super super desperate, I may be able to suggest something useful. That's why I ask how you discovered the problem. In other words the symptoms.


    And yes, the plate is there to guide the belt, so it won't jump out of place or grind on sides.
    I reckon that's the most important role.
    Last edited by dom14; 12th November 2017 at 01:40 PM.
    RB30, some 2-3 inch lift auxiliary LPG tanks
    Few more mods on the way
    http://www.worldwildlife.org/species/tiger
    https://www.panthera.org/
    Cheetah Outreach

  9. #168
    Legendary dom14's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudnut View Post
    One fix I have thought of is to drill and weld the plate to the sprocket and get it machined to be centred.

    My inbox has now been cleared.
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    Not sure about drilling & welding though. From what I understood so far, the crank is scored where the plate sits.
    RB30, some 2-3 inch lift auxiliary LPG tanks
    Few more mods on the way
    http://www.worldwildlife.org/species/tiger
    https://www.panthera.org/
    Cheetah Outreach

  10. #169
    Patrol God mudnut's Avatar
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    The belt has been on there since just after I bought the car, so it is due to be replaced (5 years or 100,000 ks). It has only done 30,000 but I have pushed this little engine to the limits in that time.

    The shaft is not just scored, it has a fairly deep groove chewed into it.

    Since this is a weak spot on the dirty 30, I also thought of spot welding the two new plates to the sprocket before I fit it all up.
    Last edited by mudnut; 12th November 2017 at 02:57 PM.
    My advice is: not to follow my advice.

  11. #170
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudnut View Post
    The belt has been on there since just after I bought the car, so it is due to be replaced (5 years or 100,000 ks). It has only done 30,000 but I have pushed this little engine to the limits in that time.

    The shaft is not just scored, it has a fairly deep groove chewed into it.

    Since this is a weak spot on the dirty 30, I also thought of spot welding the two new plates to the sprocket before I fit it all up.
    If the two key notches on the crank aren't damaged, then i think you can sleeve it using a matching sleeve from Bearing Wholesalers or similar people. I'm not sure whether your particular model's crankshaft front end is different than mine, but I'm not sure how the problem manifesting itself either.

    I'm thinking there are methods to fill those grooves as well, using methods like spray welding or TIG filler, and sand/buff it back to shape. I'm not sure it's worth though, as you can get hold of an RB30 crank or motor for peanuts these days.
    RB30, some 2-3 inch lift auxiliary LPG tanks
    Few more mods on the way
    http://www.worldwildlife.org/species/tiger
    https://www.panthera.org/
    Cheetah Outreach

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