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13th January 2016, 10:26 AM
#1
Warning--DX door locks
Hi all
A bit of advice for us who have the DX models.For those with more expensive models, we only have manual door locks with a standard key-no electronics.
Had problems locking drivers side door for a few weeks so eventually had a look. Lucky because if left it could have been expensive-bloody expensive.
After fiddling around with locking mechanism while I had door open, found that when in closed position-that is latch in closed position it could not be opened again without depressing internal latch with a screw driver. This would have been impossible with door actually closed and no amount of playing with connecting rods from internal and external latches can work.
Off to Mr Nissan for a new one expecting to have to wait a few days as local dealer usually only stocks items that sell readily but yes they were in stock as they had a run on them recently.It is a pressed unit so cannot be repaired and wreckers usually only sell door as a unit.
Part no is 80502VB100 and cost $308.
So message is if you door lock plays up, check it out immediately before door is closed and lock decides not to open.
At the end of the day, all you have is yourself and all you need is your friends (and in our case our Patrol)
2006 GUI1 4.2TDi Coil Cab "almost" standard
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The Following 7 Users Say Thank You to Wizard52 For This Useful Post:
blocko05 (14th January 2016), Cuppa (13th January 2016), DX grunt (25th April 2016), growler2058 (3rd March 2016), Hardyards (14th January 2016), mudnut (13th January 2016), Roosim (13th January 2016)
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13th January 2016 10:26 AM
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13th January 2016, 10:45 AM
#2
Travelling Podologist
Ever since I’ve had mine the drivers door lock has been a little ‘idiosnynchratic’, no issue with locking it at all, but generally to unlock it I have to first turn the key as though locking it before I can unlock it. (i.e. turn one way then the other). It always works, but has always struck me as a bit odd.
2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
A Nomadic Life (Blog)
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13th January 2016, 02:33 PM
#3
Patrol God
Anyone ever sprayed some graphite powder or CRC into the lock.?
keep the pins free
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
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13th January 2016, 03:48 PM
#4
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13th January 2016, 07:20 PM
#5
Originally Posted by
Cuppa
Ever since I’ve had mine the drivers door lock has been a little ‘idiosnynchratic’, no issue with locking it at all, but generally to unlock it I have to first turn the key as though locking it before I can unlock it. (i.e. turn one way then the other). It always works, but has always struck me as a bit odd.
Hi Cuppa
Exactly how mine started to play up. Once it is difficult to lock from inside or outside, you may have a problem.
cheers
At the end of the day, all you have is yourself and all you need is your friends (and in our case our Patrol)
2006 GUI1 4.2TDi Coil Cab "almost" standard
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13th January 2016, 07:22 PM
#6
Originally Posted by
threedogs
Anyone ever sprayed some graphite powder or CRC into the lock.?
keep the pins free
Hi TD
In is not the barrel where the key goes in. It is the locking mechanism in the door when the latch rolls over to go around the retaining bracket on the body.
At the end of the day, all you have is yourself and all you need is your friends (and in our case our Patrol)
2006 GUI1 4.2TDi Coil Cab "almost" standard
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The Following User Says Thank You to Wizard52 For This Useful Post:
threedogs (13th January 2016)
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13th January 2016, 08:03 PM
#7
Patrol God
Originally Posted by
threedogs
Anyone ever sprayed some graphite powder or CRC into the lock.?
keep the pins free
warning only use graphite powder, a locksmith said never use crc as it will attract dust and get worse, i now have a bottle of spray powder.
2003 gu3 td42tdi sold 😞 bloody gvm towing crap. Bt50 3500kg gvm.
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Stropp For This Useful Post:
Winnie (13th January 2016), Wizard52 (15th January 2016)
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13th January 2016, 08:10 PM
#8
Travelling Podologist
Originally Posted by
Wizard52
Hi Cuppa
Exactly how mine started to play up. Once it is difficult to lock from inside or outside, you may have a problem.
cheers
So I’m guessing the $308 is the ‘low cost’ way out? Presumably the alternative could be a complete new door?
2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
A Nomadic Life (Blog)
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14th January 2016, 12:53 AM
#9
To clarify, this has nothing to do with the door key operated lock, it is the latch that holds the door shut and operated by the door handle?
How can you easily test it?
Last edited by Jonesy_sa; 14th January 2016 at 01:04 AM.
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15th January 2016, 11:07 AM
#10
Originally Posted by
Cuppa
So I’m guessing the $308 is the ‘low cost’ way out? Presumably the alternative could be a complete new door?
Don't know how you could get door off when it is closed and locked and key or internal lock can't be used. The whole door wold have to be destroyed I suppose so it is really a bit of a safety problem. Lucky we have manual windows and none of those fancy electric things?
At the end of the day, all you have is yourself and all you need is your friends (and in our case our Patrol)
2006 GUI1 4.2TDi Coil Cab "almost" standard
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The Following User Says Thank You to Wizard52 For This Useful Post:
Cuppa (15th January 2016)