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Thread: Engine getting hot

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    Post Engine getting hot

    Hi Guys
    2004 GU
    Went over the hill this morning n picked up my car trailer 600Kgs .
    Coming back I noticed temp up a bit so I backed off ,sat on 90 .I stopped n had a look noticed rad over flow was down a bit ,
    topped it up took about 2.5 litres ,coming over hill had to stop n let it cool .
    What could it be ? has twd heavier loads without a drama before .

    Please Help
    dont want that to happen

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    Smart like tractor Ben-e-boy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FNqGu04 View Post
    Hi Guys
    2004 GU
    Went over the hill this morning n picked up my car trailer 600Kgs .
    Coming back I noticed temp up a bit so I backed off ,sat on 90 .I stopped n had a look noticed rad over flow was down a bit ,
    topped it up took about 2.5 litres ,coming over hill had to stop n let it cool .
    What could it be ? has twd heavier loads without a drama before .

    Please Help
    dont want that to happen
    What motor
    96 GQ coil/Cab
    08 G6eT


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    ZD30 with egr dawes n 3 inch running 20 psi

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    Patrol Freak Mc4by's Avatar
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    I recently had a heating issue while going over a very long hill in my ZD30.
    Coolant change with a radiator flush seems to have done the trick. I have been over the same hill twice since and no issues at all.
    I had all sorts of nightmares about the possibilities and was relieved to find it was a simple solution.

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    Has been running fine ,the little hill I have is 2.4k to the top n very steep .I went into town this arvo with no trailer ,coming back temp got to mark
    just before the top , but I was over so it cooled down OK .
    All resivoirs are full n no leaks . Could it be the clutch fan not doing it's thing ? am only doing 60k/hr if that coming over the hill .
    Don't really want to be stuck on the other side ,if it sh#ts itself .

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    Expert Rumcajs's Avatar
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    I see no issue with 90C especially after you have worked it harder. Mine will climb up to 95C when in deep sand in low range and ambient around 35C + easily.

    I see temps on mine fluctuating during summer between 87C-92C and in winter between 85C -89C subject to loads and I don't tow trailers/campers either.

    It has 84C thermostat so what do you expect?

    If you want to make sure then check if the radiator fins are not blocked with foreign matter (leaves, insects etc.) by putting a source of light behind it and look from outside if you can see the light. If there is something there to impede the airflow on to fan bimetallic spring of the viscous clutch it will not engage the fan when required for example.

    If the engine/cooling fan is spinning really easily (no resistance from the viscous clutch) first thing when cold and there are tell tale signs of dust trail around its clutch housing then it is also possible that silicon fluid is leaking out and there is not enough oif it in there to act as a clutch.

    Another trick is to engage A/C to see if the temps are going down/stabilize (A/C condenser electric fan kicks in forcing air through radiator as well)

    BTW, how do you know the temps are going up, becuase factory gauge will not move until about 100C which is a deliberate design as to not freak out the consumers when watching temp gauge needle moving up when under heavier load.

    Regards
    Last edited by Rumcajs; 15th January 2017 at 12:58 PM.
    2005 Grenade....

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    Hi Rumcajs
    Just read your post ,went out n checked the fan ,couldn't really see any dust or oil on the hub .
    There is only a bit of resistance to turning the blades . Could that be the problem ?
    Went over the hill yesterday arvo no trailer ,got hotter than normal, temp gauge doesn't move unless really working hard .
    Thanks
    Craig

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    Expert Rumcajs's Avatar
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    The "reasonable" resistance is felt usually only when engine is cold, but another test I suppose is when you start the engine and then stop it after a minute or so and if the fan keeps spining after the engine is off for a bit of time then the fan clutch has no silicon fluid in it anymore, if it stops right away then all is good.
    The fan resistance test is just a feel, if it spins really easily then you have trouble.

    However as I mentioned it before the no "hot air flow" over the clutch bimetalic spring will cause it to not engage the fan. That's why you have check for obstruction in the radiator.

    You can actually hear the fan roaring when it engaged as well.

    I'm more concerned about the 2.5 L of fluid you've put in.

    This needs to be put in the overall view, what is the ambient temp, engine load and air flow through radiator.

    If you are relying on the factory temp gauge only then you are in trouble too. I suggest or hope that you have access to ECU Talk software and cable as a minimum and I fully recommend the ECU Talk LCD interface. That thing has already paid for itself in my case so many times it is not even funny...

    Do check the radiator for the external blockage first using a source of light, you will require an assistance and or would need to remove the radiator shroud if you can't stick your hand in there.

    Regards




    Quote Originally Posted by FNqGu04 View Post
    Hi Rumcajs
    Just read your post ,went out n checked the fan ,couldn't really see any dust or oil on the hub .
    There is only a bit of resistance to turning the blades . Could that be the problem ?
    Went over the hill yesterday arvo no trailer ,got hotter than normal, temp gauge doesn't move unless really working hard .
    Thanks
    Craig
    2005 Grenade....

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    I'm begining to think there is not enough air flow through the Rad ,any tips on cleaning it.
    There are quite a few insects flying around when I'm driving ,prob just built up enough to cause a drama .

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    Next item on the wish list is a temp gauge , get a proper temp

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