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Ordered a new actuator. Decided to go with the vacuum on for ease of replacing as time is of the essence, should be here in a couple of days.
I did give the mob a call about the boost actuators. They recommended a tune when installing them because getting the right amount of boost can be tricky, could be done yourself with trial and error but i will save that for another time.
Not clear what u intend to do here?
As the lever does not touch the stop screw when u connected the vac supply direct to the actuator (measured at 28"Hg) and actuator does not hold vacuum, yes you most likely need a new vac actuator.
Need a hand operated vac pump to set actuator rod length (makes is a lot easier). Also can be used to check the diaphragm in the actuator for leaks.
Need to remove you current actuator and check that actuator lever can move freely all the way up to the stop screw. Check for vane operation.
As the lever does not touch the stop screw when u connected the vac supply direct to the actuator (measured at 28"Hg) and actuator does not hold vacuum, yes you most likely need a new vac actuator.
Need a hand operated vac pump to set actuator rod length (makes is a lot easier). Also can be used to check the diaphragm in the actuator for leaks.
Need to remove you current actuator and check that actuator lever can move freely all the way up to the stop screw. Check for vane operation.
Im going to try get a hold of a Hand vac pump from a mate to borrow. if not i'll purchase one.
I had removed the rod and checked and the vane moves freely before purchasing the actuator, should of mentioned that.
The fishing line trick worked a treat for me on the c clip. Spinning the clip around to the back has an easy slot to thread the line in.
Do you know the Hg values I should be aiming for once installed using the vac pump on the actuator? if not i'll try find them.
The video is good mate. One comment here is that the lever should move up/down with ease there appears to be a small amount of resistance in the top part of travel (say top 5mm), it should just float up/down with finger and it will give a metallic clang type sound at the ends of travel.
May be a little soot / carbon clogging up the vanes. Lets see how it goes with the new actuator but I would like to see it move more freely.
Could slip the actuator rod back onto pin and with the hand vac pump apply say 15"Hg and see how it lifts.
With the new actuator, initially adjust the rod length to a point where the lever just touches the stop screw with 13-14"Hg.
As you operate the hand vac pump, the rod starts to lift, you will notice the vac level increase progressively on the pump gauge.
After you set the rod length (13-14@Hg), connect the vac supply direct (28"Hg) and check at idle that the rod lifts and lever rests against stop then the pull hose of actuator and the rod should drop.
If all good connect up the manual boost control, start eng (close the needle valve) and the lever should be resting against stop and then open needle to where the rod just starts to drop.
All good, then take it for a gentle drive set the Dawes to max boost of 15psi, then recheck that lever is just touching stop.
Let us know how she goes. Observe if it is laggy or aggressive(jerky) at low revs at early spool. Learn as we go.
Tested the old actuator and couldn't hold any vacuum with the pump. Tested the new one and did perfectly.
Followed the steps, lever is now hitting the stop screw when running!! And we now have good boost!!
Took a little bit to set the dawes to 15psi after mucking around with it a lot before starting this thread, took it for a very easy drive and honestly if felt really nice. Drove around for about 20 minutes no spikes, no high EGT, didn't feel laggy, responsive but not jerky.
Very happy at the moment, anything else i should be checking now things seem to be working properly/better?
Tested the old actuator and couldn't hold any vacuum with the pump. Tested the new one and did perfectly.
Followed the steps, lever is now hitting the stop screw when running!! And we now have good boost!!
Took a little bit to set the dawes to 15psi after mucking around with it a lot before starting this thread, took it for a very easy drive and honestly if felt really nice. Drove around for about 20 minutes no spikes, no high EGT, didn't feel laggy, responsive but not jerky.
Very happy at the moment, anything else i should be checking now things seem to be working properly/better?
Great result_pleased for you.
Drive it for a while see how she goes, may be able to increase boost to 16 psi.
List all eng mods you have/know of and we can go from there.
i went and bought the same actuator, installed it yesterday ($50 ebay), rod starts to lift at 5"Hg as it should and then applied 20"Hg (held vacuum) _ yes good product working well.
List all eng mods you have/know of and we can go from there.
Not much out of the ordinary.
Engine rebuild at 215k
Nads (Dawes, needle, catch canister, boost and egt guage, EGR blank plate)
Cross Country 4x4 Intercooler
From what I'm aware a glowplug timer was also installed. I dont know much about them so Ive just left it as is.
Glad to hear you had a good experience with the actuator install as well.
Nads (Dawes, needle, catch canister, boost and egt guage, EGR blank plate)
Cross Country 4x4 Intercooler
From what I'm aware a glowplug timer was also installed. I dont know much about them so Ive just left it as is.
Glad to hear you had a good experience with the actuator install as well.
Read your first post again and also noted the eng mods.
Really what you have currently is adequate.
They like to breathe well (induction), maybe a look at your air intake (airbox design and inlet piping to turbo). But this is dollars, so I would suggest to leave as is and drive for a while and enjoy.
Can try installing an extra needle valve and install this needle valve downstream of the Dawes boost controller. You set Dawes to a lower boost level eg: nom 8psi and then close this needle valve (the one downstream of Dawes), to obtain the target max boost (15-16psi). This setup will allow the VNT vanes to start to open earlier from say 8psi then gradually continue to open until you reach the target max boost.
The spool needle valve is adjusted just as you do currently (ie: lever resting against stop).
BTW what cruise boost are you getting @ 100kph / flat road?
Originally Posted by DickieO
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