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1st December 2016, 05:13 PM
#31
Patrol God
two seperate steels most exhaust pipe is aluminized steel,
so a stainless system is a bit of overkill imo.
Grab some 3 bolt flanges so you can just bolt it in
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
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The Following User Says Thank You to threedogs For This Useful Post:
dom14 (1st December 2016)
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1st December 2016 05:13 PM
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Circuit advertisement
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1st December 2016, 05:21 PM
#32
Patrol Freak
[QUOTE=dom14;706004]FYI, I've resealed the skin three times already.
It's got the better of me. .... why , and maybe thats the problem !
Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
If ya not using it buy a prius .....
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The Following User Says Thank You to gaddy For This Useful Post:
dom14 (1st December 2016)
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1st December 2016, 07:59 PM
#33
Legendary
[QUOTE=gaddy;706026]
Originally Posted by
dom14
FYI, I've resealed the skin three times already.
It's got the better of me. .... why , and maybe thats the problem !
Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
Yeah, I reckon you're right. I extended the life of the muffler a fair bit.
It looks pretty healthy from outside 'cos of my TLC, but there's nothing much I can do to prevent
what happens inside it.
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1st December 2016, 08:00 PM
#34
Legendary
Originally Posted by
threedogs
two seperate steels most exhaust pipe is aluminized steel,
so a stainless system is a bit of overkill imo.
Grab some 3 bolt flanges so you can just bolt it in
Ok cool. Three bolt flanges are obviously better than two bolt ones.
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1st December 2016, 11:12 PM
#35
Legendary
Just updating.
The muffler rattle suddenly vanished and it purrs like a pussy cat right now.
This has been happening for a while though.
Sometime it's rattling like hell and other times nothing.
I think the baffle plate(s) are moving around inside and sometimes get lodged firmly inside and no noise.
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2nd December 2016, 01:19 AM
#36
Legendary
Something to think about Dom. Just last week I had an issue on a piece of mobile equipment I service. A two cylinder motor running on one cylinder. When I pulled it down it had one bent and one broken push rod. Repaired and started it but although it was now on two cylinders it developed no power. Exhaust appeared blocked. Anyway to cut a long one short, the baffles in the muffler had come loose and one had managed to get stuck in the exhaust outlet blocking it about 90%. It was this that caused the motor to back pressure at full noise and break/bend push rods.Repair cost? about $1600.00. Just because its now lodged somewhere and not rattling is not necessarily a good thing.
2005 GU IV ST 3.0. Snorkel. Roof rack. Awning. Spots. Welded I/C. Dual batteries & VSR. UHF. Barn door hinge extension. Roof top spot lights. Rear drawers. 2" lift. NADS. EGT and boost gauges. Trans temp and water temp gauges. Provent 200 catch can. Rear ladder
And crawling on the planet's face, some insects called the human race. Lost in time. And lost in space... and meaning.
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The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to 4bye4 For This Useful Post:
dom14 (2nd December 2016), garett (2nd December 2016), threedogs (2nd December 2016)
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2nd December 2016, 09:32 AM
#37
Legendary
Originally Posted by
4bye4
Something to think about Dom. Just last week I had an issue on a piece of mobile equipment I service. A two cylinder motor running on one cylinder. When I pulled it down it had one bent and one broken push rod. Repaired and started it but although it was now on two cylinders it developed no power. Exhaust appeared blocked. Anyway to cut a long one short, the baffles in the muffler had come loose and one had managed to get stuck in the exhaust outlet blocking it about 90%. It was this that caused the motor to back pressure at full noise and break/bend push rods.Repair cost? about $1600.00. Just because its now lodged somewhere and not rattling is not necessarily a good thing.
Thanx mate. It is well timed good advice for me.
I most certainly won't muck around with this, and have it replaced asap.
Of course, excessive back pressure can't be a good thing for these old worn out engines.
I'm about to do a basic back pressure test with the vacuum pressure gauge following the guides below.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/exhaust_backpressure.htm
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d-jp1IIJVVk
Last edited by dom14; 2nd December 2016 at 10:21 AM.
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2nd December 2016, 11:20 AM
#38
Legendary
Hey Guys,
Can I use a Fuel Pressure Gauge(gauge goes upto 10psi) to check the exhaust back pressure?
I can use EGR port on the exhaust manifold to tap into with a suitable adapter.
Would it cook the fuel pressure gauge/vacuum gauge in no time?
Or would it damage the gauge if the pressure hit above 10psi instantly?
I'm guessing I only need to use it for few seconds.
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2nd December 2016, 11:45 AM
#39
Dribble Master
Just rip it out and wels a piece of pipe in it place until you get a new one. What's the point in risking any damage that may be caused........ you may as well just use water instead of coolant for the next couple of years for that matter
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2nd December 2016, 11:57 AM
#40
Legendary
Originally Posted by
Clunk
Just rip it out and wels a piece of pipe in it place until you get a new one. What's the point in risking any damage that may be caused........ you may as well just use water instead of coolant for the next couple of years for that matter
Thanx mate. I'm not driving it right now as I'm fixing few things.
No argument it's gotta be replaced asap.
I have a vacuum gauge permanently hooked up so that can help as well(assuming I'm alert enough to keep an eye on it all the time).
I do take risks occasionally, but they are calculated risks, usually(unless a Shiela involved).
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